Gramps just got 5D, need help with shooting dog agility

Grampa Pete

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Hi all -

Yes, us old farts sometimes TRY to jump into the techno world (mostly with no success - just ask my SO).

I have the kit lens and just got interested in working with my dog in agility, and just photographing dogs at play. You would have laughed at my first attempts. I do not know what "program" to use, have never used "motor drive" and can't move the lens fast enough to have a change at focus. So I need help.

I would like to know how I should set my camera settings - Program, metering mode, focusing mode, etc, tec. So many things I can't remember them all. Keep focus on all the time, etc, etc. These are dogs that move quickly, come closer quickly, then more distant. I thought I would drop the camera trying to keep up with the action.

One of the frustrations I know exists is that I cannot get close enough with the kits lens. And when I did, the background was always in focus, too.

So I guess I would like to know not only the starting camera settings (even if I shouold use autofocus) but also what kind of lens (range, speed)would be a good choice for this work. I plan to stay with it for a few years so I will able to experiment, but today I was frustrated). Also, my dog is worth a lot, so I am not adverse to spending some $$$ on a good lens for mu situation. I would think (in my ignorance?) that I would want to focus quickly and be able to throw the background out of focus.

Sorry my questions are disjointed - I just don't know where to start.

Thanks,

Grampa Pete
 
Hi, Pete - congratulations on getting a great camera; you've got the right spirit, so I'm sure you'll get the results you're seeking. Here's a first tip - get this ebook:

http://www.friedmanarchives.com/Writings/5D_7D_ebook.htm

It's considered the best practical guide to your camera.

Next, when asking these questions, try to be a bit more specific. Share things like the general lighting conditions you want to target (bright/mixed/dark, indoors/outdoors) and the general distance from your subject. These will help determine what range of lens you'll be using for photographing your friend.

I'd guess you want to have shots of your dog that stop motion (suggesting motion can be done through panning and/or carefully selecting your shutter speed, depending on whether you want to keep your dog clear and the background blurred or vice versa). The best way to do this is to select a shutter speed (via the shutter-priority position on the dial (S) and the front control wheel) that's fast enough to stop his action. If he's really fast on his feet, I'd start with a shutter speed of 1/500th of a second and slow it down gradually from there. The kit lens isn't necessarily the greatest tool for this, and your note said there's not enough reach to get the magnification you're looking for. There's a wide dollar range for longer telephoto lenses, but I think a good next step is to explore the next longer range of lenses, e.g. you've got the 18-70, so next you'd want something that starts at 70-80 and extends to 200-300 mm (it's the range where you'll get closer head and body shots). There are lots of lenses available (from about $150 to $2500), but you're more likely to get the shots you're describing if the maximum aperture is wider (a lower number) within your range. There are web sites that post technical review data and user feedback on lenses, the Minolta mount included (things like sharpness and contrast, color rendition, etc.); here's one:

http://www.photodo.com/products.html?mountid=36&name=Minolta+AF

This forum is also great for getting lens advice and viewing examples of almost every lens out there.

Once you get that longer lens, hopefully with a max aperture of f/2.8 - f/4, it would also be good to experiment with continuous shooting mode (you can practice that now, with your kit lens). Also, you'll be balancing the desired shutter speed (because that's how you'll freeze your dog's action) with the capabilities of your lens, probably offsetting with selecting the right ISO (it's all fine and good to tell the camera you need, say, a 1/500 sec. shutter speed, but if the combination of ISO and aperture don't allow in enough light to properly expose the picture, either the camera won't take the picture or, if you're in manual mode, you're probably not going to be happy with the results). There are those who will give you a more cogent, specific recipe - this was just meant to offer some general areas of investigation. But my best advice is still to get and read Gary Friedman's ebook. Best of luck to you, and do keep using this forum; it's a valuable resource.

Rich
 
I do know some about photography from old Olympus Pen F cameras, and will get the book.

I am shooting in daylight - both sun and clouds, with dogs from 5ft to 25ft away.

I looked at some of the huge F2.8 lenses and they are more than I want to spend and carry. I think maybe the BEERCAN lens would be a good and not too expensive place to start.

Thanks again,

Grampa Pete
 
The beercan was on my mind when I wrote that, but didn't know about your budget. I've also seen some good pics come from using it with a TC, so there's more area to explore. Keep us updated on your adventures!

Rich
 
Dog agility is great .... only seen it once inperson but watched it whenever I run across it on tv !!!! Seems like the owners get flustered more often than the dogs do LOL !!!!!

Seems to me shooting as close as you are your kit lens would do the job .... from what I have seen if you are going to try and get a full frame of a dog actually in competition .... well I dont know that I am fast enough... if it were me I would be focused on a spot and wait and when the dog got close I would be shooting continous...probably about 3 shots. It takes a couple minutes for the next dog so you could look at your results and adjust accordingly and try again.... at least thats what I would try.
Good luck !
Bob

--
Bob Myers WB7SBW
Sonolta 7D Lens 28-100mm 28-300 Tamron 170-500 Sigma 10-20 Sigma
2 - Olympus C21oo 2 - B3oo 1 - B-Macro

 
to get a more defined DOF. Use a higher ISO and as low a shutter speed as possible to stop the action. Panning also helps. Depending on the distance to your subjects, you might pick up a 50mm 1.7 Minolta lens. They can be found used on eBay for between $50 and $100, or you might find a camera shop that has a used one. Although it is not a zoom, the DOF on that lens is fantastic and it is light and small; you won't notice the addition to your bag.

I bought a Sigma 24-135 ($119) to take care of zooming farther than the kit lens but the special pricing for this one has ended at the shop that most of us were buying it from. I also use another "kit" lens that is a cheapie, the KM 75-300, and have had good results. This one can often be found for less than a hundred.

I recently used the above lenses at the big Houston dog show in July and all three worked great. I had to use a higher ISO a few times so I used one of the free noise reduction programs to reduce the noise.
 
You guys have been great in your help. Not only do I want to photograph agility, but I go to dog parks where dogs run and wrestle off leash. So they are right on me, and as far as maybe 20 yards away. I am willing to spend good money for the right stuff to do the job I want to do, and this is very, very important to me.

Let me quickly share why I am making this choice for photography and why I will learn what I need to learn and spend what I need to spend. I am in my mid 60s and live alone in rural Wisconsin. My best friend for the past 7 years, Buzz (giant Pug), was killed suddenly two weeks ago when I soccer mom did a uturn in front of me on a country highway. I walked away, my car was totaled, and I had the heartwrenching experience of holding my dog for over an hour while medics tried to keep him alive.

My anger from that accident that was no fault of my own has led me to take up photography again after many years and get another puppy that I will put through agility, so he and I can both get in shape and enjoy life together. I want to celebrate that relationship with pictures and I am also offering to photograph other's dogs so that we have memories to always have around.

I got a 5D to compensate for my essential tremor and I love it for that. If I have to study Friedmans's book for a year and spend $1500 for a couple lenses, no big deal.

Which leads me to ask - how would I put a photo on this note? I would have liked to honor Buzz by showing you how handsome a guy he was.

Gramps
 
Which leads me to ask - how would I put a photo on this note? I
would have liked to honor Buzz by showing you how handsome a guy he
I'm a cat person, but I've had a similar experience, although - thank God - not one that lasted that long.

To answer your question, you need to post your photo online somewhere. There are many sites that allow you to post photos for free and link to them. Then you just type - or copy and paste - the URL of your picture into a message. [If you want you can e-mail me the picture(s) at [email protected] and I'll post it for you and send you the link. Then you can try the technique for yourself.]

You're getting good advice on lenses and technique. I think the beercan is too long for what you're talking about, but you won't be disappointed in its abilities. What I really think you want is that Sigma 24-135 f2.8-4.5. Like the beercan, it's fast and has excellent bokeh. It sounds like that's what you want. It's $219.95 and in stock at http://www.sigma4less.com , which is a reputable vendor.
 

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