A
avanbeek
Guest
Has anyone had extensive experience with these? What would you recommend for general use? I'd like to increase my exposure time from the 1/125 range to 3-5 seconds.
Regards,
AVB
Regards,
AVB
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Shay Stephens
Forum Pro
That is a difference of 8 to 9 stops so you would need to stack multiple filters.
The darkest Hoya filter I could find provides 3 stops (NDx8 type) so you would need three stacked filters to get 9 stops of difference. The NDx4 type will provide 2 stops and an NDx2 will provide 1 stop, so depending on what you are looking for you can mix and match to reach any desired level.
Example: You want 7 stops difference 1/125 to 1 second you could use 2 NDx8 and one NDx2 filters (3+3+1 stop = 7 stops)--ShayMy F707 Gallery: http://f707.shay.ws
The darkest Hoya filter I could find provides 3 stops (NDx8 type) so you would need three stacked filters to get 9 stops of difference. The NDx4 type will provide 2 stops and an NDx2 will provide 1 stop, so depending on what you are looking for you can mix and match to reach any desired level.
Example: You want 7 stops difference 1/125 to 1 second you could use 2 NDx8 and one NDx2 filters (3+3+1 stop = 7 stops)--ShayMy F707 Gallery: http://f707.shay.ws
Would I be correct in saying, that filters at that magnitude, would make the viewfinder very dark, just a thought.
Ken.
Ken.
--Ken
Shay Stephens
Forum Pro
It would yes, but to get the shot you could frame before putting on the filters. Also using night framing may help if the internal reflection of the LED's is not too bad. But either way you look at it, you could get the shot with a wee bit o' planning. At 3 to 5 seconds we are not talking about a hand held, spur of the moment shot anyway.--ShayMy F707 Gallery: http://f707.shay.ws
Shay Stephens
Forum Pro
Tiffen uses a different naming convention
ND.9 = 3 stop filter
ND.6 = 2 stop filter
ND.3 = 1 stop filter--ShayMy F707 Gallery: http://f707.shay.ws
ND.9 = 3 stop filter
ND.6 = 2 stop filter
ND.3 = 1 stop filter--ShayMy F707 Gallery: http://f707.shay.ws
J
jacques
Guest
Hi A van Beek,
I think this is the strangest wish of a photographer I have ever heard or red.
What the purpose of going to longer exposure times, would you like to get better 'noise' ?
--jacques
I think this is the strangest wish of a photographer I have ever heard or red.
What the purpose of going to longer exposure times, would you like to get better 'noise' ?
--jacques
Graeme Falkner
Forum Enthusiast
It's not that strange a request.
Particularly given some of the experimentation going on for the Challenges...
perhaps he just wants to see what a waterfall looks like on a 3 sec exposure, rather than "freezing" the water with the "correct" exposure (we know how Andrew likes water....)
Shay, do you really think the view finder would darken?
My experience with my cameras and a ND8 filter is that there is no darkening of the view finder - the camera simply compensates.
I did hear someone once suggest that you could use two polarizing filters stacked. Rotate just 1 filter to give a variable-ND filter.
I haven't tried it, but I think it would work, so long as it didn't stuff up the exposure meter - you can't use CP filters (I've tried it, it changes the colour but doesn't provide much darkening), but two ordinary (non circular) polarizing filters should work I think.
Graeme Falkner
Particularly given some of the experimentation going on for the Challenges...
perhaps he just wants to see what a waterfall looks like on a 3 sec exposure, rather than "freezing" the water with the "correct" exposure (we know how Andrew likes water....)
Shay, do you really think the view finder would darken?
My experience with my cameras and a ND8 filter is that there is no darkening of the view finder - the camera simply compensates.
I did hear someone once suggest that you could use two polarizing filters stacked. Rotate just 1 filter to give a variable-ND filter.
I haven't tried it, but I think it would work, so long as it didn't stuff up the exposure meter - you can't use CP filters (I've tried it, it changes the colour but doesn't provide much darkening), but two ordinary (non circular) polarizing filters should work I think.
Graeme Falkner
Shay Stephens
Forum Pro
I agree!
Was just a guess based on the flash situation, but now that I think of it with a second or longer exposure it should crank up the brightness of the LCD nicely
I have a Polarizer and one circualr polarizer, they do work as a variable, but you can't go too dark, it turns purple. The circular polarizer on the lens and the polarizer on the circular polarizer give the best results. If you swap positions, the effect is to go from a cool tint to neutral to warm, kind of interesting but I have not played with that too much.
--ShayMy F707 Gallery: http://f707.shay.ws
Shay Stephens
Forum Pro
The ND8 filter, is that an 8 stop filter? Who makes it, and what is the part number?--ShayMy F707 Gallery: http://f707.shay.ws
J
jacques
Guest
Hi ,
Just would like to write 'oh no, not another white vail'.
Water should be transparent and yes you may see some motion blur, but not that silly over and miss used white stripes, Oh I realy hope he wants the filters for a much nicer thing.
--jacques
Just would like to write 'oh no, not another white vail'.
Water should be transparent and yes you may see some motion blur, but not that silly over and miss used white stripes, Oh I realy hope he wants the filters for a much nicer thing.
--jacques
Graeme Falkner
Forum Enthusiast
The numbering system on Neutral Density filters goes:
ND2
ND4
ND8.
ND2 is 1 stop, ND4 is 2 stops, and ND8 is three stops.
It occurred to me after I posted, but I wondered if Andrew has exhausted the possibilities of reducing the shutter speed by setting a high aperture?
Perhaps he wouldn't need such an aggressive ND filter if he used the maximum aperture his camera has to offer?
Graeme Falkner
ND2
ND4
ND8.
ND2 is 1 stop, ND4 is 2 stops, and ND8 is three stops.
It occurred to me after I posted, but I wondered if Andrew has exhausted the possibilities of reducing the shutter speed by setting a high aperture?
Perhaps he wouldn't need such an aggressive ND filter if he used the maximum aperture his camera has to offer?
Graeme Falkner
Graeme Falkner
Forum Enthusiast
The most remarkable waterfall photo I ever saw was in a fairly recent (UK) Practical Photography magazine.
They set a camera on a tripod, and took lots of shots using a short "water freeze" exposure setting - ON THE SAME FRAME.
This overlay of multiple "sharp" shots gave a remarkable "sugar candy" look to the water.
The possibilities of waterfall shots are endless. Just wait until I win the STF challenge and set "waterfalls" as my topic
Graeme Falkner
They set a camera on a tripod, and took lots of shots using a short "water freeze" exposure setting - ON THE SAME FRAME.
This overlay of multiple "sharp" shots gave a remarkable "sugar candy" look to the water.
The possibilities of waterfall shots are endless. Just wait until I win the STF challenge and set "waterfalls" as my topic
Graeme Falkner
A
avanbeek
Guest
Thanks for the answers guys. I finally found this post again. Sure would be handy if I could say, serach for my own posts....
Regards,
AVB
Regards,
AVB
They set a camera on a tripod, and took lots of shots using a short
"water freeze" exposure setting - ON THE SAME FRAME.
This overlay of multiple "sharp" shots gave a remarkable "sugar
candy" look to the water.
The possibilities of waterfall shots are endless. Just wait until I
win the STF challenge and set "waterfalls" as my topic
Graeme Falkne
crapitecture
Well-known member
I was researching ND filters a couple of days ago, and B+W makes much stronger ND filters:
BW101 (ND.3) (exposure adjustment = 1 stop)
BW102 (ND.6) (exposure adjustment = 2 stops)
BW103 (ND.9) (exposure adjustment = 3 stops)
BW106 (ND1.8) (exposure adjustment = 6 stops)
BW110 (ND3.0) (exposure adjustment = 10 stops)
BW113 (ND4.0) (exposure adjustment = 13 stops)
BW120 (ND6.0) (exposure adjustment = 20 stops)
So you don't have to stack them. If you go to BHPhoto's site you can find them here: http://www02.bhphotovideo.com/default.sph/FrameWork.class?FNC=ProductActivator__Aproductlist_html___8080___BW10658___REG___CatID=114___SID=EBA70FA6BE0
--D http://www.pbase.com/crapitecture/
BW101 (ND.3) (exposure adjustment = 1 stop)
BW102 (ND.6) (exposure adjustment = 2 stops)
BW103 (ND.9) (exposure adjustment = 3 stops)
BW106 (ND1.8) (exposure adjustment = 6 stops)
BW110 (ND3.0) (exposure adjustment = 10 stops)
BW113 (ND4.0) (exposure adjustment = 13 stops)
BW120 (ND6.0) (exposure adjustment = 20 stops)
So you don't have to stack them. If you go to BHPhoto's site you can find them here: http://www02.bhphotovideo.com/default.sph/FrameWork.class?FNC=ProductActivator__Aproductlist_html___8080___BW10658___REG___CatID=114___SID=EBA70FA6BE0
--D http://www.pbase.com/crapitecture/
Erichatch
Senior Member
I gues syou could do that using photoshop to create a many-layered composite.
Don't know how you'd do it at night.
eric
Don't know how you'd do it at night.
eric
--EricF707 http://www.pbase.com/erichocincThey set a camera on a tripod, and took lots of shots using a short
"water freeze" exposure setting - ON THE SAME FRAME.
This overlay of multiple "sharp" shots gave a remarkable "sugar
candy" look to the water.
The possibilities of waterfall shots are endless. Just wait until I
win the STF challenge and set "waterfalls" as my topic
Graeme Falkner
Shutter.
Forum Pro
shaking head
Jacques, refer to AVB's other post:
http://www.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1009&message=2053693
Jacques, refer to AVB's other post:
http://www.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1009&message=2053693
--Jim Fuglestad http://www.pbase.com/jfuglestad/galleries
A
avanbeek
Guest
Good pick up on that connection Shutter. I do know what Jacques means though and I can see why those who have been in photography for a long time might find that technique annoying. I do have other plans and ideas though and hopefully more will come to mind when I get my hands on some of these filters.
AVB
AVB
Jacques,
Another important reason for ND filters is to reduce depth of field by enabling wider apertures in bright sunlight. Using the fast 5.6 rule, at iso 100, in bright sunlight I would have a shutter speed of 1/1000. Since that's the fastest on most DC's, you can't use apertures wider than f5.6 in bright sunlight. This seems even more important with digital photography since DC's have such extended DOF.
kem
Another important reason for ND filters is to reduce depth of field by enabling wider apertures in bright sunlight. Using the fast 5.6 rule, at iso 100, in bright sunlight I would have a shutter speed of 1/1000. Since that's the fastest on most DC's, you can't use apertures wider than f5.6 in bright sunlight. This seems even more important with digital photography since DC's have such extended DOF.
kem
Shutter.
Forum Pro
AVB,
The thing is, there are many phases one needs to go through to become a better photographer. In his example about water, that is how many photographers learn about exposure and movement. Challenge yourself there, and you become a better photographer. Although jacques probably means well, and sometimes has difficulty expressing himself in English, I still found his comment to be condescending, and it annoyed the he!! out of me. This is a forum for growth and learning photography, and that is not the kind of feedback we need. No one has a problem with critique, but only of the photographs, not one's ideas.
Regarding your plans, I'm sure you have interesting things planned, and I look forward to seeing them.
You know, Bella Attacks is going to turn into you nemisis (that's not quite the word I'm looking for, any help?). You will be known for that photo forever. Of all the photos I've seen on stf, that is the one I wish I had taken the most (of course, sub one of my dogs ;-) )
Jim
The thing is, there are many phases one needs to go through to become a better photographer. In his example about water, that is how many photographers learn about exposure and movement. Challenge yourself there, and you become a better photographer. Although jacques probably means well, and sometimes has difficulty expressing himself in English, I still found his comment to be condescending, and it annoyed the he!! out of me. This is a forum for growth and learning photography, and that is not the kind of feedback we need. No one has a problem with critique, but only of the photographs, not one's ideas.
Regarding your plans, I'm sure you have interesting things planned, and I look forward to seeing them.
You know, Bella Attacks is going to turn into you nemisis (that's not quite the word I'm looking for, any help?). You will be known for that photo forever. Of all the photos I've seen on stf, that is the one I wish I had taken the most (of course, sub one of my dogs ;-) )
Jim
--Jim Fuglestad http://www.pbase.com/jfuglestad/galleries
A
avanbeek
Guest
Agreed but I take no offense at all since I deal with people being like this all the time. I noticed that Jacques is from the Netherlands which may be why it doesn't bother me. My family is dutch and we often speak this way to one another and the tone isn't meant to be offensive in any way. In any case, the meaning behind the words is more important than the tone but I can see where people might not like it (I got busted for a similar thing way back when)
I am a little worried about that now that you mention it. It is my favorite shot of all time and I have taken many similar shots but never one that had had such a mood with it. Hopefully I haven't set everyone's expectations too high so that everything that I do from now on will be a disappointment!
AVB
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