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Gobo

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Didn't have much time today for picture taking but I did manage to snap a few quick shots. Nothing special just some outdoor pics at ISO 100 which is what the vast majority of shots seem to be at anyway. Again all picture adjustments were set to STD with NR set to LOW. Image stabilization was at mode 2. The camera was also in P mode.

The JPGs are all images right out of the camera with no post processing. The JPGs converted from RAW again used the default settings in the included SilkyPix program except NR was set to Zero saved as a TIFF then sent through light noise reduction in Noise Ninja before the save to the final JPG.

I'm starting to see the benefits of having RAW as seen in exposure correction done in the image of the flower bush below. Might be reason enough to sell the FZ7. These pictures seem to have good detail and no problem with a watercolor effect. I'm really starting to like this camera.

ISO 100 JPG no PP



ISO 100 RAW to JPG



ISO 100 JPG no PP



ISO 100 RAW to JPG



ISO 100 JPG no PP



ISO 100 RAW to JPG



ISO 100 JPG no PP



Here's the link to the full size images:
http://www.pbase.com/fz3pics/fz50_part_2
 
Forgot to mention. I used spot focus and no sharpening was done to any of the pictures so far.
 
After seeing these images, I'm sold on the FZ50 as a replacement for my Oly UZI (Which was a "noisey" camera too, but I never found it to be a problem) ;).

Raw does seem useful. I notice that in the RAW there's some CA in the Flower pic, where the light shines through the trees in the background, and in the JPG it's not there. Venus III perhaps? The "paint daubs" effect seems under control when set to "low" and that effect bothered me more than the Venus III solution!

Thanks again!

Mark.
 
And I see your point regarding exposure compensation, The flower bush flowers top left hand of the image. In the JPG a tad washed out, and detail lost. In the RAW image, hey presto! Detail back and little wash out.

RAW takes about 3-5 seconds to save? Bit of a shame, as I like to take multiple shots in quick succession for wildlife. Still, a nice option.
MArk.
 
Look at the exposure of all the flowers on the wide shot of the bushes. Other than RAW the settings were the same. They are blown out a bit in the JPG but I could adjust the exposure later in the RAW.
 
ANd that's a good thing. If the low NR is close to the RAW file, that means Noise Reduction is fairly limited at the low end.

I see some slight water colour effect in teh shadows of the JPG that is not there in the RAW. Still a wee bit noisey on both. but easily fixed through other software, which I prefer. Now we have options. ;)

Mark.
 
--Those RAW shots look really good. That's a very stark comparison...and well done. I think the jpeg's would have been close with a bit of exposure compensation. I think bracketing might be a good solution for those who don't want to work with RAW files. Remember...BLH...bracket like hell.
-Kurt Horsley
Panasonic FZ 1
Olympus C-2100 (2)
Transcend digital album (superb accessory)

Previously owned:
Konica-Minolta 7D
Olympus E-10
Olympus C2500
Olympus C700
Canon D30
Canon S1-IS
Panasonic DMC-FZ10
Panasonic DMC-FZ20
Panasonic DMC-FZ30
Fujifilm F401
Fujifilm s602z
Toshiba PDR-M700
Casio QV-2300
Casio QV-R40
Casie Exilm EX-Z30
Olympus OM-10
Olympus OM-2000
Many, many others...
 
People ought to learn how to use Photoshop (or similar) before wasting time on RAW. RAW has it's place, but often it is mistaken for the solution when in fact the user simply doesn't know how to properly tweak JPGs.

Here's your original JPG
Gobo said:
ISO 100 JPG no PP

Click to expand...
After tweaking in Photoshop:
(Note that NO SHARPENING was applied)



Here's your RAW:
Gobo said:
ISO 100 RAW to JPG

Click to expand...
 
those raw and jpg images were not taken at the same time they were two different shots of the same thing. The settings however were probably the same and it does show that RAW can really save those blown highlights but sense I do not have RAW in my FZ7 it has been good practice for me to always slightly under expose my shots to ensure a good picture with a lot of detail.

Having said that though if Panasonic ever decided to release a firmware update giving us RAW in our FZ7's I'd be stoked =).
 
glitchbit said:
those raw and jpg images were not taken at the same time they were
two different shots of the same thing. The settings however were
probably the same and it does show that RAW can really save those
blown highlights but sense I do not have RAW in my FZ7 it has been
good practice for me to always slightly under expose my shots to
ensure a good picture with a lot of detail.

Having said that though if Panasonic ever decided to release a
firmware update giving us RAW in our FZ7's I'd be stoked =).
Click to expand...
I agree about RAW on the FZ7. The pictures though were taken at the same time one right after the other.
 
Nice work, but RAW does bypass the Venus III engine, which could be a plus in certain situations, plus there's the blown highlight in the flower bush picture, the image with the multiple flowers (Rose of Sharon?)

Can you fix those too or are they too far gone?

Mark.
 
Jared Hunter said:
Here's your original JPG
Jared Hunter said:
ISO 100 JPG no PP

Click to expand...
After tweaking in Photoshop:
(Note that NO SHARPENING was applied)



Here's your RAW:
Jared Hunter said:
ISO 100 RAW to JPG

Click to expand...
Click to expand...
--I've got to agree with that 110%. When I went fully digital in 1999, I never really warmed up to raw. Since then, my opinion has not changed. RAW does indeed have several good applications, but general day to day photography simply isn't one of them. A lot of portrait photographers insist on using it. But, if you really need that much latitude to shoot a portrait, somethings seriously wrong.

The FZ30 was the first real camera (for me) that proved just how good jpeg's can be. Regards,
-Kurt Horsley
Panasonic FZ 1
Olympus C-2100 (2)
Transcend digital album (superb accessory)

Previously owned:
Konica-Minolta 7D
Olympus E-10
Olympus C2500
Olympus C700
Canon D30
Canon S1-IS
Panasonic DMC-FZ10
Panasonic DMC-FZ20
Panasonic DMC-FZ30
Fujifilm F401
Fujifilm s602z
Toshiba PDR-M700
Casio QV-2300
Casio QV-R40
Casie Exilm EX-Z30
Olympus OM-10
Olympus OM-2000
Many, many others...
 
True you can do that in PS. Never used RAW before this so I've done what you've done to regular JPGs as well. I do like bypassing the onboard NR using RAW though.
 
to actually do photographic work in Photoshop. It is fairly easy to combine two OR MORE images from the same RAW original into a single image, giving a much greater range of light to dark while retaining the advantage of real live photography - even more practical in a dslr where RAW images can be shot in quick succession.

--
Best wishes, rennie12
 
Gobo said:
glitchbit said:
those raw and jpg images were not taken at the same time they were
two different shots of the same thing. The settings however were
probably the same and it does show that RAW can really save those
blown highlights but sense I do not have RAW in my FZ7 it has been
good practice for me to always slightly under expose my shots to
ensure a good picture with a lot of detail.

Having said that though if Panasonic ever decided to release a
firmware update giving us RAW in our FZ7's I'd be stoked =).
Click to expand...
I agree about RAW on the FZ7. The pictures though were taken at the
same time one right after the other.
Click to expand...
That is kinda what I meant, they were taken one right after the other, they aren't exact pictures as in you have the RAW+JPG of the exact same moment, it is RAW then milliseconds to seconds later the JPG. The layers in photoshop while I was trying to see how close I could get the JPG to match your RAW did not line up perfectly...

That doesn't mean the test was invalid though but I had thought the camera when taking RAW would first save the RAW then process that either from the card or more likely from the internal memory it is temporarily stored in into a JPG.
 
Gobo said:
True you can do that in PS. Never used RAW before this so I've done
what you've done to regular JPGs as well. I do like bypassing the
onboard NR using RAW though.
Click to expand...
I agree that bypassing onbaord NR is good, but it is truly sad that one has to go to such an extent just for that feature. That is a lot of extra time and storage wasted if that is the only option for prevent NR smearing.

Panasonic: Pls add a menu option in the next firmware release to completely turn off NR. We're big boys, we can take it.
 
Hello Jared:
Jared Hunter said:
People ought to learn how to use Photoshop (or similar) before wasting time on RAW. RAW has it's place, but often it is mistaken for the solution when in fact the user simply doesn't know how to properly tweak JPGs.
Click to expand...
Trouble is no amount of Photoshop work can repair the damage that some cameras render with jpg's...In essence it can't re-create detail that was never there or was destroyed in the jpg file...For me RAW is all about capturing every single ounce of detail that's available ...Not so much about having more latitude with color, exposure, WB, etc., because as you've mentioned these can be tweeked in the jpg file...

It's just amazing the extra detail a RAW file contains in landscape type exposures with alot of foilage, trees, grass, etc. whereas the jpg file will most likely be smeared in some areas...

I can agree that RAW may not often be necessary but it's definitely not overrated...Given the option with that once in a lifetime shot, I'm gonna use RAW...

LW
Jared Hunter said:
Here's your original JPG
Jared Hunter said:
ISO 100 JPG no PP
.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
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