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4 mp UZI IS here!

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Pat Holmes

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On another list someone was talking about using our panorama feature in the vertical position, which I never even thought of doing. But wouldn't that effectively double the resolution of our photos? (Whoopie!!) Here's my post from the other list:

Someone here asked what advantage there was to using a vertical pano
mode. (I never even though of doing so...Daaaah!) One big advantage
is that you will end up with a greater resolution than with a single
frame picture, thus allowing you to enlarge it without losing
details. Let's say that you only need about half the zoom power of
your camera to photograph your 60' yacht (hey, it doesn't hurt to
dream a bit!!) So from the dock you only need half your zoom power to
photograph the boat. If, however, you zoom in all the way and take
two vertical panos, one of the front half, one of the aft section,
and then stitch them together, you could make a smashing 16 X 20
blowup of it without breaking a sweat. Just remember to set the AEL
before you take the pictures. Wow!
Now moving targets are a different matter since you can't expect
a seagull to stop and wait for you to take a couple of snaps, but
let's say you reveiw a picture and it looks as if you might have
gotten a good shot of a flying gull but that the gull is right near
the edge of the frame. It might be worth shooting a quick shot of the
sky and background that would have been next to the gull and maybe be

able to stitch them together later on. This is a bit of a stretch but doing so might save an otherwise terrific picture. Let's hear it for pano mode!! Pat (Did we just 'invent' a 4 mp UZI, and isn't that what we've all been wishing for???!!)

--Pat
 
I would really love if Oly can combine UZI features with E20/10 feauters and ad speed (with less noise). I am ready to pay $5000.00 for such camera eventhough if it has fixed lense (actually I prefer fixed lense).

Mike
Pat Holmes said:
On another list someone was talking about using our panorama
feature in the vertical position, which I never even thought of
doing. But wouldn't that effectively double the resolution of our
photos? (Whoopie!!) Here's my post from the other list:

Someone here asked what advantage there was to using a vertical pano
mode. (I never even though of doing so...Daaaah!) One big advantage
is that you will end up with a greater resolution than with a single
frame picture, thus allowing you to enlarge it without losing
details. Let's say that you only need about half the zoom power of
your camera to photograph your 60' yacht (hey, it doesn't hurt to
dream a bit!!) So from the dock you only need half your zoom power to
photograph the boat. If, however, you zoom in all the way and take
two vertical panos, one of the front half, one of the aft section,
and then stitch them together, you could make a smashing 16 X 20
blowup of it without breaking a sweat. Just remember to set the AEL
before you take the pictures. Wow!
Now moving targets are a different matter since you can't expect
a seagull to stop and wait for you to take a couple of snaps, but
let's say you reveiw a picture and it looks as if you might have
gotten a good shot of a flying gull but that the gull is right near
the edge of the frame. It might be worth shooting a quick shot of the
sky and background that would have been next to the gull and maybe be
able to stitch them together later on. This is a bit of a stretch
but doing so might save an otherwise terrific picture. Let's hear
it for pano mode!! Pat (Did we just 'invent' a 4 mp UZI, and isn't
that what we've all been wishing for???!!)

--
Pat
Click to expand...
 
When I got my UZI I was certain I had died and gone to heaven. If I had the camera you describe I would be God. Yes, a fixed lens is so darned easy. What if there was a camera with a 1000mm lens with IS that is not much bigger or heavier than an UZI?? Yow...
MikeX said:
I would really love if Oly can combine UZI features with E20/10
feauters and ad speed (with less noise). I am ready to pay $5000.00
for such camera eventhough if it has fixed lense (actually I prefer
fixed lense).

Mike

--Pat
Click to expand...
 
I guess great minds think alike! After reading reviews and surfing some other forums, I haven't found a higher MP camera (and of course, no other 10X zoom with IS) that is really saying "Buy Me, Buy Me", but I found this link not long ago.

http://users.erols.com/maxlyons/index.html

The guy is doing almost exactly what you describe (only with a Nikon -- is that a bad word in this forum? ;-)

I have been experimenting some myself (I am nowhere in his league, though) and here is a vertical panorama I took on Christmas in Sedona. it is resized, of course (the original was 2833 x 1564), and consisted of 4 pictures. Probably would have been better had I used a tripod, but that was too much trouble at the time. I actually stitched these manually using PSP7. Obviously, you wouldn't want to do it all the time, but it looks like this could be a good alternative for those really special shots you might want to blow up.



--Mary
 
Pat,
Your first post shows 2 positive tips,
1-You don't need Oly SM card to do panoramas, use the AEL button.

2-To make your pics look like they were shot w/4mp camera, take multiple exposures of the same scene and "stitch"them together. Makes the pic look sharper.
 
Wouldn't it be easier/better however to use AEL button AND pano feature? (pano does not automatically lock exposure) I've only done 3 long panos with my UZI and the automatic stitching with Camedia software was easy and the results were impressive. I tried stitching a couple of other shots without using pano feature & they didn't work well. Maybe it was the subject but the lines didn't match up and there was blurring where they did stitch together. I forget which software program I used for that, but poor result. And I'm sure you've seen the directions on how to 'hack' pano feature onto other cards. I haven't tried it but think I might if my new 'discovery' works out as I hope it will. Many people say they get good 11 x 14's from a single UZI picture, but I demand better quality than that. Even if I crop out 25% or so of a picture and then print it at 8 x 10 I'm often not totally pleased with the result.
wb said:
Pat,
Your first post shows 2 positive tips,
1-You don't need Oly SM card to do panoramas, use the AEL button.
2-To make your pics look like they were shot w/4mp camera, take
multiple exposures of the same scene and "stitch"them together.
Makes the pic look sharper.
Click to expand...
--Pat
 
...wouldn't your theory hold true as well with landscape shots...one over/under the other to stitch together?...

...and I thought exp and focus were locked in with first shot of an "Oly" pano?...(looking for my manual)...

...thanks for your post, and keep us informed, will ya?...--...Happy Holidays to All!...and remember...'you may be a mile away, and have their shoes...but they won't like you very much'...newby
 
Yes, you're absolutely right!! Landscapes should be fantastic in pano mode, ESPECIALLY if you don't NEED to use pano (I think this is called 'thinking outside the box'!!). I'd take one or two shots not in pano mode just in case the pano doesn't work out and then a couple of pano using a bigger zoom to get that higher resolution.

I'm not sure about the AEL lock in pano. I seem to remember reading that you need to lock it and, while I've only taken a few panos myself, one I took of Catalina Island had five frames to it, but when I stitched it the last frame's exposure was all wrong. The software couldn't figure out where to sitich it and the sky was white, not blue like the other four frames. It was sort of a backlit scene and probably difficult to expose as a result. It would have been really pretty if it had worked out, as there were big puffy clouds above Catalina. I couldn't even rescue it by altering the brightness of that last frame and then sticking it together.

Anyway, yes, we all need to use our imaginations: Take over and under panos for high buildings, mountains and the like. Then turn the camera sideways for horizontal shots. That way, instead of getting a pano that is 3" x 30", which is nice but impractical to frame or mail to someone, we would get something that we could print out at, say 10" X 16" (from only two stitched frames) and have a crisp, clear print!! Imagine the possibilties...
newby said:
...wouldn't your theory hold true as well with landscape
shots...one over/under the other to stitch together?...
...and I thought exp and focus were locked in with first shot of an
"Oly" pano?...(looking for my manual)...
...thanks for your post, and keep us informed, will ya?...
--
...Happy Holidays to All!...and remember...'you may be a mile away,
and have their shoes...but they won't like you very much'...newby
Click to expand...
--Pat
 
Pat Holmes said:
I'm not sure about the AEL lock in pano. I seem to remember reading
that you need to lock it and, while I've only taken a few panos
myself, one I took of Catalina Island had five frames to it, but
when I stitched it the last frame's exposure was all wrong. The
software couldn't figure out where to sitich it and the sky was
white, not blue like the other four frames. It was sort of a
backlit scene and probably difficult to expose as a result. It
would have been really pretty if it had worked out, as there were
big puffy clouds above Catalina. I couldn't even rescue it by
altering the brightness of that last frame and then sticking it
together.

Anyway, yes, we all need to use our imaginations: Take over and
under panos for high buildings, mountains and the like. Then turn
the camera sideways for horizontal shots. That way, instead of
getting a pano that is 3" x 30", which is nice but impractical to
frame or mail to someone, we would get something that we could
print out at, say 10" X 16" (from only two stitched frames) and
have a crisp, clear print!! Imagine the possibilties...
newby said:
...wouldn't your theory hold true as well with landscape
shots...one over/under the other to stitch together?...
...and I thought exp and focus were locked in with first shot of an
"Oly" pano?...(looking for my manual)...
...thanks for your post, and keep us informed, will ya?...
--
...Happy Holidays to All!...and remember...'you may be a mile away,
and have their shoes...but they won't like you very much'...newby
Click to expand...
--
Pat
Click to expand...
--...Happy Holidays to All!...and remember...'you may be a mile away, and have their shoes...but they won't like you very much'...newby
 
Some pans at full wide angle may not stitch because of barrel distotion. Stitcher cant tell where the edges are. One or 2 clicks of zoom corrects the problem.
 
When you have a pano you want to shoot where one area is significantly
brighter than the rest, one "trick" to use is to take your first shot
at the brightest or close to brightest point, wherever it may be, and then
shoot the "real" frames. When stitching your pano together you then
simply discard the first frame. Mutli-metering might have been another
solution, but I just tried and it can't be activated at the same time as
pano mode, but you could try it for a sequence of non-pano mode images
to stitch. Just be sure to engage the "memo" feature so that successive
shots use the same exposure settings.

The first pano on this page:

http://odin.prohosting.com/inigom/854/cherry/blossoms.html

Was shot as a sequence of 10 images with the initial image
centered on the Memorial and excluded from the stitch.

Also, don't forget you can shoot a sequence left to right or right to left,
which may also make it easier to get the locked settings for the set
in the range you want.
Pat Holmes said:
I'm not sure about the AEL lock in pano. I seem to remember reading
that you need to lock it and, while I've only taken a few panos
myself, one I took of Catalina Island had five frames to it, but
when I stitched it the last frame's exposure was all wrong. The
software couldn't figure out where to sitich it and the sky was
white, not blue like the other four frames. It was sort of a
backlit scene and probably difficult to expose as a result. It
would have been really pretty if it had worked out, as there were
big puffy clouds above Catalina. I couldn't even rescue it by
altering the brightness of that last frame and then sticking it
together.

Anyway, yes, we all need to use our imaginations: Take over and
under panos for high buildings, mountains and the like. Then turn
the camera sideways for horizontal shots. That way, instead of
getting a pano that is 3" x 30", which is nice but impractical to
frame or mail to someone, we would get something that we could
print out at, say 10" X 16" (from only two stitched frames) and
have a crisp, clear print!! Imagine the possibilties...
newby said:
...wouldn't your theory hold true as well with landscape
shots...one over/under the other to stitch together?...
...and I thought exp and focus were locked in with first shot of an
"Oly" pano?...(looking for my manual)...
...thanks for your post, and keep us informed, will ya?...
--
...Happy Holidays to All!...and remember...'you may be a mile away,
and have their shoes...but they won't like you very much'...newby
Click to expand...
--
Pat
Click to expand...
 
What nice panos, and thanks for the very helpful tips, everyone!! (Thanks goodness for forums like this one. We all learn so much from one another!!)
Inigo Montoya said:
The first pano on this page:

http://odin.prohosting.com/inigom/854/cherry/blossoms.html

Was shot as a sequence of 10 images with the initial image
centered on the Memorial and excluded from the stitch.

Also, don't forget you can shoot a sequence left to right or right
to left,
which may also make it easier to get the locked settings for the set
in the range you want.
Pat Holmes said:
I'm not sure about the AEL lock in pano. I seem to remember reading
that you need to lock it and, while I've only taken a few panos
myself, one I took of Catalina Island had five frames to it, but
when I stitched it the last frame's exposure was all wrong. The
software couldn't figure out where to sitich it and the sky was
white, not blue like the other four frames. It was sort of a
backlit scene and probably difficult to expose as a result. It
would have been really pretty if it had worked out, as there were
big puffy clouds above Catalina. I couldn't even rescue it by
altering the brightness of that last frame and then sticking it
together.

Anyway, yes, we all need to use our imaginations: Take over and
under panos for high buildings, mountains and the like. Then turn
the camera sideways for horizontal shots. That way, instead of
getting a pano that is 3" x 30", which is nice but impractical to
frame or mail to someone, we would get something that we could
print out at, say 10" X 16" (from only two stitched frames) and
have a crisp, clear print!! Imagine the possibilties...
newby said:
...wouldn't your theory hold true as well with landscape
shots...one over/under the other to stitch together?...
...and I thought exp and focus were locked in with first shot of an
"Oly" pano?...(looking for my manual)...
...thanks for your post, and keep us informed, will ya?...
--
...Happy Holidays to All!...and remember...'you may be a mile away,
and have their shoes...but they won't like you very much'...newby
Click to expand...
--
Pat
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
--Pat
 
Inigo Montoya said:
The first pano on this page:

http://odin.prohosting.com/inigom/854/cherry/blossoms.html

Was shot as a sequence of 10 images with the initial image
centered on the Memorial and excluded from the stitch.
Click to expand...
Inigo, excellent panorma pics!! and very useful tips you gave. Your photos made me remember another tip for panos: if you have a slow moving subject like water or trees that will fall over the stitching points, try using a slow shutter speed so the natural blurring of the movement merges nicely with the next pic...

Peter--C3040 + B300? + FL-40?
 
Oh, by the way... those pics were shot with my trusty little D400Z
with a tripod. Back then 1.3MP was a lot! :-)
Inigo Montoya said:
The first pano on this page:

http://odin.prohosting.com/inigom/854/cherry/blossoms.html

Was shot as a sequence of 10 images with the initial image
centered on the Memorial and excluded from the stitch.

Also, don't forget you can shoot a sequence left to right or right
to left,
which may also make it easier to get the locked settings for the set
in the range you want.
Pat Holmes said:
I'm not sure about the AEL lock in pano. I seem to remember reading
that you need to lock it and, while I've only taken a few panos
myself, one I took of Catalina Island had five frames to it, but
when I stitched it the last frame's exposure was all wrong. The
software couldn't figure out where to sitich it and the sky was
white, not blue like the other four frames. It was sort of a
backlit scene and probably difficult to expose as a result. It
would have been really pretty if it had worked out, as there were
big puffy clouds above Catalina. I couldn't even rescue it by
altering the brightness of that last frame and then sticking it
together.

Anyway, yes, we all need to use our imaginations: Take over and
under panos for high buildings, mountains and the like. Then turn
the camera sideways for horizontal shots. That way, instead of
getting a pano that is 3" x 30", which is nice but impractical to
frame or mail to someone, we would get something that we could
print out at, say 10" X 16" (from only two stitched frames) and
have a crisp, clear print!! Imagine the possibilties...
newby said:
...wouldn't your theory hold true as well with landscape
shots...one over/under the other to stitch together?...
...and I thought exp and focus were locked in with first shot of an
"Oly" pano?...(looking for my manual)...
...thanks for your post, and keep us informed, will ya?...
--
...Happy Holidays to All!...and remember...'you may be a mile away,
and have their shoes...but they won't like you very much'...newby
Click to expand...
--
Pat
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
bump
Inigo Montoya said:
Inigo Montoya said:
The first pano on this page:

http://odin.prohosting.com/inigom/854/cherry/blossoms.html

Was shot as a sequence of 10 images with the initial image
centered on the Memorial and excluded from the stitch.

Also, don't forget you can shoot a sequence left to right or right
to left,
which may also make it easier to get the locked settings for the set
in the range you want.
Pat Holmes said:
I'm not sure about the AEL lock in pano. I seem to remember reading
that you need to lock it and, while I've only taken a few panos
myself, one I took of Catalina Island had five frames to it, but
when I stitched it the last frame's exposure was all wrong. The
software couldn't figure out where to sitich it and the sky was
white, not blue like the other four frames. It was sort of a
backlit scene and probably difficult to expose as a result. It
would have been really pretty if it had worked out, as there were
big puffy clouds above Catalina. I couldn't even rescue it by
altering the brightness of that last frame and then sticking it
together.

Anyway, yes, we all need to use our imaginations: Take over and
under panos for high buildings, mountains and the like. Then turn
the camera sideways for horizontal shots. That way, instead of
getting a pano that is 3" x 30", which is nice but impractical to
frame or mail to someone, we would get something that we could
print out at, say 10" X 16" (from only two stitched frames) and
have a crisp, clear print!! Imagine the possibilties...
newby said:
...wouldn't your theory hold true as well with landscape
shots...one over/under the other to stitch together?...
...and I thought exp and focus were locked in with first shot of an
"Oly" pano?...(looking for my manual)...
...thanks for your post, and keep us informed, will ya?...
--
...Happy Holidays to All!...and remember...'you may be a mile away,
and have their shoes...but they won't like you very much'...newby
Click to expand...
--
Pat
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
--Pat
 
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