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Calibrating LCD Monitors: A Poll

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Those who calibrate to gamma 2.2 need to look at those images in colormanaged applications. Since in non-colormanaged appz under 2.2 you won't normally see those shadow details. That's the rationale for the L* target.

--
Serge Cashman
 
i re-read the pdf manual before posting again.
at page 11 of "ColorEyes_Display_3.10.pdf" it says:

"...if you are profiling multiple monitors you will want to match their luminance

values. Find the lowest value from all the monitors and profile them all again using that

value. Finally it is important to understand that there is no right luminance.Viewing

conditions and personal taste should be the final determining factors when choosing a
final luminance"

Now, I have re-calibrated the two monitors, this time at 250 cd/m2 luminance in order to "extend the life of the monitor by not running it at maximum brightness", and posted the results online:
http://leader-snagov.ro/temp/dpreview_forum/calibration_results.html

The 12 circles from the link above were and still are perfectly visible at both 300 cd/m2 and 250.

Regards
 
That's still very bright. Typical "starting point" calibration targets for color critical work are 100 cd/m² for CRTs and 120 cd/m² for LCDs. I work in a fairly to very dark room, so I've always calibrated my CRTs to 85 and my LCDs to 100.

Anything brighter than that (again, depending on ambient light levels) and you start wondering why your prints come out looking so dark...

Nill
~~
http://www.toulme.net
 
Instead of setting all to lowest common denominator, another approach is to match them all to the average . . .

Each has advantages and disadvantages.

For those with the very high luminece values . . . i can't help but think a different scale is being used . . . seems incredible how high some reported values are.

Regards,
Kev
 
Nill Toulme said:
That's still very bright. Typical "starting point" calibration
targets for color critical work are 100 cd/m² for CRTs and 120
cd/m² for LCDs. I work in a fairly to very dark room, so I've
always calibrated my CRTs to 85 and my LCDs to 100.

Anything brighter than that (again, depending on ambient light
levels) and you start wondering why your prints come out looking so
dark...

Nill
~~
http://www.toulme.net
Click to expand...
Nill,

I don't own a printer yet, so all my prints go to the FujiFilm store. The prints looked fine, not brighter, not darker, and i always tell the store employees not to edit my files.

That is why I'm confused about what you just said. Do you happen to have an online link that talks about LCD luminance?
I wouldn't want to edit my photos at 250 cd/m2 instead of a 'standard'.
Please advise

AT
 
adriantofan said:
it wasn't a typo. the eizo can supposedly reach 400 luminance,
although my two monitors can only go up to 313.
should I be wearing sunglasses? :D
Click to expand...
WAY too bright! You want to match the luminance to the light you view your prints under (and ideally near the display so you can view both). You're also wearing out the unit faster than necessary (those Fluorescent lights don't go forever you know). 120-130 cd/m2 is a bit closer to where you want to be.
--
Andrew Rodney
Author: Color Management for Photographers
The Digital Dog
http://www.digitaldog.net
 
Thanks for the many replies. I notice that many of you are setting your color temperature to 6500K and your luminance to 100.

Does your software recommend these settings for LCD monitors?

-- Rob
 
My software (Eye One Match) actually recommends 100 for CRTs and 120 for LCDs, but I found that too bright in both cases. It really depends a great deal on the level of your ambient room light. Most lower end LCDs come out of the box extremely bright because they're designed for the typical office environment — very high fluorescent light levels, often combined with window light. Hardly the best, or even typical, environment for serious color correction work.

Nill
~~
http://www.toulme.net
 
I re calibrated my macbook lcd
with x-rite/coloureyes
colour temp 6021K
Gamma L*
Luminance 115 cd/m2

here is the profile validation results...not sure if its good or not
  1. R G B DE
1 255 255 255 0.39
2 247 247 247 0.53
3 237 237 237 0.49
4 224 224 224 0.40
5 209 209 209 0.10
6 191 191 191 0.40
7 171 171 171 0.19
8 148 148 148 0.54
9 122 122 122 0.47
10 94 94 94 0.49
11 64 64 64 0.48
12 43 43 43 0.23
13 255 0 0 0.05
14 0 255 0 0.05
15 0 0 255 0.14

Average delta E = 0.33
Maximum delta E = 0.54

Panos
 
(1) NEC 1980SXi SpectraView
(2) Dedicated NEC SpectraView II software and EyeOne puck
(3) Color Temp: D65 (6500K)
(4) Gamma: 2.2
(5) Luminance: 125
 
"The brightness of black" so to speak.

White luminance / black luminance = contrast ratio. You can set a target for Basiccolor, Spyder2 Pro and probably some other software.

It does not matter for LCDs cause the only analog control is backlight anyway - it controls both luminances at the same time. So even if you have a "contrast" control it makes sense to just leave it alone. Just look at white luminance.

--
Serge Cashman
 
klinikl said:
"The brightness of black" so to speak.

White luminance / black luminance = contrast ratio. You can set a
target for Basiccolor, Spyder2 Pro and probably some other
software.

It does not matter for LCDs cause the only analog control is
backlight anyway - it controls both luminances at the same time. So
even if you have a "contrast" control it makes sense to just leave
it alone. Just look at white luminance.

--
Serge Cashman
Click to expand...
Thanks Serge
--
Chris
 
klinikl said:
White luminance / black luminance = contrast ratio. You can set a
target for Basiccolor, Spyder2 Pro and probably some other
software.

It does not matter for LCDs cause the only analog control is
backlight anyway - it controls both luminances at the same time. So
even if you have a "contrast" control it makes sense to just leave
it alone. Just look at white luminance.
Click to expand...
I'm reopening this because I just got my first LCD monitor and I'm still confused.

I have a HP LP2065. (S-IPS panel) The OSD menu has controls for "Brightness" and "Contrast" Nothing for "Backlight"

I remember from before (calibrating my CRT) that "Brightness" adjusted the black point and "Contrast" adjusted the white point. So after installing my new 2065 (and downloading and installing the latest monitor driver), I ran OPTIX Pro. I told it "LCD" My targets were "Native" for WP and "2.2" for gamma (only has choices of "1.8" and "2.2" for gamma.) After a bit of back and forth with the WL (white luminance) and BL (black luminance) adjustments, I ended up using the Brightness control in the OSD to set BL to .3 cd/m2 and using the Contrast control to set WL to 130 cd/m2. I didn't do anything for color temperature, because my target was "native." (The color temperature in the OSD is at the factory default of 6500K.)

The calibration completed with no weirdness. I looked at "Edit Calibration Curves" (but didn't edit anything) and it shows

Name: 07-02-23_1_Monitor_Profile.icm (This is the name I gave the profile)
White Point: 6720K x=.311, y=0.315
White Luminance: 133.54 cd/m2
Black Luminance: 0.30 cd/m2
Gamma: 2.20

Presumably, these are the actual measurements that the puck measured after it did the profiling.

So, did I do it correctly? Setting BL to .3 cd/m2 with the OSD Brightness control and WL to 130 cd/m2 with the contrast control? (Other than maybe setting WL a bit high.) Or was I applying techniques that are appropriate for CRTs but aren't appropriate for LCDs? Maybe I shouldn't have used the contrast control at all? Or the brightness? Or what?

I just checked and I have Brightness set at 46 and Contrast set at 73.

I did some quick visual checking. The screen overall looks decent--no weird color casts. But looking at large gray (white to black) step squares, the extreme light grays look a bit sparkly, as if there was some dithering going on. Extreme shadows go to black a bit faster than I'd like. Is this the best that I can expect from a $400 LCD monitor? Or have I stolen bits from the LUT that I didn't need to?

Wayne

(Bonus question. The Color menu in the OSD also has a setting for "sRGB." ??? What color temperature is that supposed to be? It looks markedly different than either of the 6500K and 9300K presets. )
 
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