Canon 17-55 2.8 IS review and samples

isogood

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Some impressions about new Canon 17-55 2.8 IS and some links to samples for illustration.

(All pictures are at original size, be careful to choose « original » option under the picture, the oher sizes are downsampled by Pbase - shoot hand-holded, IS, body settings neutral, no post-processing)

I don’t agree with comments that give a 10, for a perfect lens. A 9 seems to be maximum for it. Perhaps better, but only after post-processing by a good software.

Two little problems in my opinion, the vignetting, very present wide open, disappear at 4 or 5.6, but…
The lens seems very sharp at 4 and up, but for sure a little softer at 2.8.

About the vignetting, I have made some test shots at different apertures, and ther compared with Canon 10-22 and Canon 50 1.4.

It is better on this point than the 10-22 (hard vignetting wide open…) but the not APS-C 50 1.4 is clearly better than the 17-55, for a use at 50mm at 2.8.
Tests visible here :
http://www.pbase.com/isogood/image/63255188

Some sharpness test pictures here, you may see the difference between 2.8 and other apertures stopping down.
EXIF are under the pictures.
http://www.pbase.com/isogood/canon_17_55

This said, sharpness is one of the qualities of this zoom, well sustained by the IS, imperative for me, who shoot often in low light, where no flash or monopod allowed (museums…)
You gan get sharp shots at 1/8 sec, if you don’t drink too much beer before…

Other quality of this zoom is the color rendering, well in Canon tradition, quite perfect in terms of natural, neutral, or saturation, clearly better (I mean different…) of Tamron or Sigma on this crucial point.

On my EIZO screen, it is quite impossible to see a difference between the model and the picture on the screen, not reach the prime L lenses, but not so far.
Perhaps the 24-70L give better saturation and contrast, but not sure…

We reach the perfection with the AF – USM focusing system, superb of precision, fast and silencious. Works perfectly.
The zoom ring is very sweet to move, confortable. Here again, Canon is the best.

I have read some complaints about flare, so I tested it in the worse possible conditions, ok, if we want to make flare, we make flare…. But nothing terrible at all…

Chromatic Aberrations are very well controlled, only in extreme edges, as you may see it (with the flare) on some shots of Effeil tower in back-light :
http://www.pbase.com/isogood/image/63255874/original

You may see also similar shots to compare taked with Canon 10-22 and Canon 50 1.4 on these galleries :
http://www.pbase.com/isogood/canon_10_22
http://www.pbase.com/isogood/canon_50mm_14

I could say about this comparaison that at 50mm I have a little preference for the 50 1.4 against the 17-55 but only in high lights, cause in low light, the IS is an enormous advantage.

At 17mm and at 22mm the 17-55 is noticeably better than the 10-22, less vignetting, better sharpness, no contestation.
So my 10-22 became only a 10-16… Thats clear…

I have no Tamron or Sigma at this time (all resell or returned) so I can’t compare same shots, in this range, but it would be interesting to do that.

Canon is really ridiculous in persisting not give the hood with a lens at this price, and this hood is impossible to buy at this moment in europe. No stocks at Canon.

This hood is essential for the quality of the pictures but also to protect the front lens, very exposed.

I use the EW-83E from my 10-22, not sure is the best way, but better than nothing…

Price is high, sure, 1200 USD for me, but there is no real competitors with this quality and features, so no real choice possible.

I think the lens worth 600 USD and we have to pay again 600 USD for the IS.

If Sigma and Tamron same range for APS-C would have IS, for sure their prices would not be so far from Canon (see Sigma 80-400 OS…)

So much more qualities than defects, and for sure a good buy if you need all the features.

Now we have to see with use if pictures produced worth the price, and if the build quality is solid…
So come again for a completed review in some months.

--
http://pbase.com/isogood
http://isogood.blogphotography.com
 
The flare problem with this lens is exaggerated. I haven't run into any major flair issues with my 17-55 from a months use and 3000 shots. Than again, I do have the matching hood on all the time.
What about flare? Isn't that the bug.a.boo with this lens. Also, in
the real world, vignetting is very low for the 10-22. Very little,
although some, is evident in the shots from the link below. DPP,
only, was used to process.
--
Fred
60mm:
http://picasaweb.google.com/fwampler/JuneFlowers
10-22:
http://picasaweb.google.com/fwampler/RoanFavorites
 
Of the 1000's of shots I've taken with my 17-55mm, with at least half those taken outdoors. I have only seen flare once:



Doesn't hurt the photo or me, so I'm ok
 
I have exactly the same observations. I can add that when there is extreme flare the lens can sometimes "hunt" for focus. Despite the flare issue I haven't regretted the purchase - the lens is simply so sharp.

I can recommend the EW-83G which is the lens hood for the EF 28-300. I used it for my 16-35 and now it is always on my 17-55

 
...and I hope it is not too stupid of a hood question:) I use the hood on my 70-200 all the time. But it is the same length on all sides - basically a big round hood.

This one has 2 long sides and 2 short sides. So are the long sides for the top and bottom and the short sides for the sides? Does it matter? I frequently switch from landscape to portrait and back again - sometimes quickly. Does the orientation of this type of hood matter - or do you have to adjust it depending on the orientation?

Thanks.........and again.........I really hope this is not too stupid of a question to ask! I have never used a hood like this before and thought I would ask before I order one. I see B&H has it in stock now for $50 or so. Is that a pretty good deal? Or are there better places to get it now?

Thanks!
--




jshetley
http://ImageEvent.com/jshetley
 
What about flare? Isn't that the bug.a.boo with this lens. Also, in
the real world, vignetting is very low for the 10-22. Very little,
although some, is evident in the shots from the link below. DPP,
only, was used to process.
--
Fred
60mm:
http://picasaweb.google.com/fwampler/JuneFlowers
10-22:
http://picasaweb.google.com/fwampler/RoanFavorites
I just came back from a 10 days London tour and took 2000+ photos with 17-55 & 30D. There were 3 to 5 times that the flare issue was obvious. In an extreme flare condition the lens hunts and almost impossible to focus. I got no hood with this lens just because it was not available in the store before I went to London. Here is an example of extreme flare:

 
Hi jshetley

The shape of the hood makes it more effective on a WA and the EW-83G is the deepest WA hood available, it is a little bit more expensive though.

The orientation of the hood is locked by a bayonet mount (like the mount on your 70-200) and is not intended to be adjusted.

AFAIK B&H is one of the cheapest an most reliable online shops - but it is up to you to decide if ypo think it is a good deal or not.
...and I hope it is not too stupid of a hood question:) I use the
hood on my 70-200 all the time. But it is the same length on all
sides - basically a big round hood.

This one has 2 long sides and 2 short sides. So are the long sides
for the top and bottom and the short sides for the sides? Does it
matter? I frequently switch from landscape to portrait and back
again - sometimes quickly. Does the orientation of this type of
hood matter - or do you have to adjust it depending on the
orientation?

Thanks.........and again.........I really hope this is not too
stupid of a question to ask! I have never used a hood like this
before and thought I would ask before I order one. I see B&H has
it in stock now for $50 or so. Is that a pretty good deal? Or are
there better places to get it now?

Thanks!
--




jshetley
http://ImageEvent.com/jshetley
 
This one has 2 long sides and 2 short sides. So are the long sides
for the top and bottom and the short sides for the sides? Does it
matter? I frequently switch from landscape to portrait and back
again - sometimes quickly. Does the orientation of this type of
hood matter - or do you have to adjust it depending on the
orientation?
I assume that the long and short petals of the hood match the long and short sides of the rectangular sensor. The relationship of the hood to the sensor doesn't change in landscape or portrait mode.
The hood locks in place in the correct orientation.
Not to worry!

-Don

'Where do we go when we die?' said Billy.
'I don't know', the old man said, 'Where are we now?'
.....Cormac McCarthy
http://www.pbase.com/dond
 
Actually, it's happened to me with the 10-22 many times. Careless handling can result in the hood turning and dark corners on the diagonal. You may not see this in the viewfinder but it will be there once the lens stops down.

Paul
 
Hey thanks for all this help guys! Really appreciate it.

1 quick question here -
Hi jshetley
The shape of the hood makes it more effective on a WA and the
EW-83G is the deepest WA hood available, it is a little bit more
expensive though.
This is not the hood that is listed as an accessory for this lens. This supposedly for the 28-300. Soooooooo - why should I get this lens hood instead of the one listed for the 17-55?

Does it work better, or reduce flare better - or what? Thanks again!

--




jshetley
http://ImageEvent.com/jshetley
 
Thank you for your thoughts and testing. As an owner of the Tamron 17-55mm zoom, I have some specific comments/thoughts below.
Other quality of this zoom is the color rendering, well in Canon
tradition, quite perfect in terms of natural, neutral, or
saturation, clearly better (I mean different…) of Tamron or Sigma
on this crucial point.
The Tamron has no color cast. It renders color as neutrally as my Canon 50/1.4 or 70-200/4L from what I can tell.
We reach the perfection with the AF – USM focusing system, superb
of precision, fast and silencious. Works perfectly.
The zoom ring is very sweet to move, confortable. Here again, Canon
is the best.
Agreed. When I use the Tamron, I miss USM.
Chromatic Aberrations are very well controlled, only in extreme
edges, as you may see it (with the flare) on some shots of Effeil
tower in back-light :
http://www.pbase.com/isogood/image/63255874/original
Certainly the Tamron has more CA.
I think the lens worth 600 USD and we have to pay again 600 USD for
the IS.
If Sigma and Tamron same range for APS-C would have IS, for sure
their prices would not be so far from Canon (see Sigma 80-400 OS…)
This is probably true. However, if Canon continues to charge such a premium for IS, they are setting themselves up for defeat by a company that uses IS built into the camera body.
So much more qualities than defects, and for sure a good buy if you
need all the features.
If you need all the features and can afford them as well!
Now we have to see with use if pictures produced worth the price,
and if the build quality is solid…
So come again for a completed review in some months.
Again, thank you for sharing your thoughts.

--
Regards,
Amin

http://www.pbase.com/asabet/300d350d_favorites
http://www.pbase.com/asabet/f30_favorites
http://www.sabets.com (family site)
 
I was very tempted by the Tamron 17-50f2.8. Such a sweet price, more compact and comparable sharpness, shaper at the corner in some cases.

In the end, I was willing to pay more than double for the Canon for the following reasons:

1. Fast accurate focus. I take a lot of picture of moving subjects. No matter how sharp the lens, it is no good if you can't get consistency and fast focus on the go.

2. IS for better hand-hold ability. Sharp lenses does not help combat blurs. IS does.
3. Less CA and better overall IQ; which means less time spent processing images.

4. It is one of my most used ranges. It will definitely get use a lot, so it worth it to spend a bit more to get something that is more pleasurable to use.

In the end, all these seemingly frills all add up to more keeper. You can't put a price on that. In relative terms, the Canon 17-55f2.8 IS is a great value.

After using it for a few months, I am still amazed at this lens. It focus faster, quieter and with more confidence than my previously fastest lens, the 200f2.8L. The IS stabilizes almost instantaneously, unlike my 28-135IS.
 
1. Fast accurate focus. I take a lot of picture of moving subjects.
No matter how sharp the lens, it is no good if you can't get
consistency and fast focus on the go.
-------------------------------------------
See the colors of my world in:
thw.smugmug.com
 
Hi jshetly

I tried different hoods in my photo shop and chosed the deepest, without getting vignetting, assuming that the EW-83G might be the most effective.

I used the it with no problem on my 16-35 so when I bought my 17-55 I continued to use it instead of buying the original and saved the money.
Hi jshetley
The shape of the hood makes it more effective on a WA and the
EW-83G is the deepest WA hood available, it is a little bit more
expensive though.
This is not the hood that is listed as an accessory for this lens.
This supposedly for the 28-300. Soooooooo - why should I get this
lens hood instead of the one listed for the 17-55?

Does it work better, or reduce flare better - or what? Thanks again!
 
As a hobby we tend to spend money a bit at a time, many times, in the end it will cost us more.

Like everyone I started with the 18-55 kit lens with a 300D. Then when looking for more. Better zooms Canon 28-135IS and Sigma 18-125. Than came a bunch of primes, Canon 50f1.8, Sigma 20f1.8, Canon 35f2, Tamron SP90 Macro, Canon 200f2.8 and Sigma 15f2.8FE. All very decent lenses by the way. I also have a couple of lowly consumer Canon 28-80 and 75-300 from my film days. In the end, a couple drawers full of lenses. Try to use all that in an outing. LOL.

Don't ask how many flashes I have. LOL.

If I am to start a fresh system today. I would definitely get a 30D for its features, performance and price. Most of the lenses would be the newer Canon lenses. The list would be Sigma 15f2.8FE, 17-55f2.8IS, 60f2.8 Macro and the 70-300IS non-DO.

With the 17-55f2.8IS pair with the 30D, I don't have any compelling reasons to go to FF DSLRs either. More money saved. LOL.
Makes perfect sense to me. As a Tamron 17-50 user, I would have
bought the Canon instead for the same reasons had I had the money!

--
Regards,
Amin

http://www.pbase.com/asabet/300d350d_favorites
http://www.pbase.com/asabet/f30_favorites
http://www.sabets.com (family site)
 
The Tamron has no color cast. It renders color as neutrally as my
Canon 50/1.4 or 70-200/4L from what I can tell.
Sorry. My tamron 17-50 definitely had a color cast. Slightly warm compared to canon. Not as bad as some of my sigmas though. Some people have argued that tamron is neutral and canon is "cold." But honestly I prefer the canon, and I always had to adjust the white balance down in PP using my tamron.

BTW, I just sold the tamron to buy the canon 17-55. Primarily because
1) Zoom ring on tamron spins wrong direction
2) faster AF with canon along with Full time manual focus
3) IS

4) I loved the focal length so much, used it so much, I felt it justified the more expensive lens.

--
---------------
Ryan W.
 

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