RiverSide Photography
Senior Member
i did think of that..just thought all AF lenses worked fine on D200 and only manual AI needed to be stopped down..
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I see dead pixels
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D2H vs D200
- Thread starter Helen Meier
- Start date
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I see dead pixels
RiverSide Photography
Senior Member
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I see dead pixels
Helen Meier
Member
Unfortunately with my current lenses that is what I have to do according to the book. If I change the f stop to say f/11...FEE comes up in the display and I have to set it back to the highest f/stop. OK, so if I have newer lenses (at least newer than my old AF lenses) I won't have to do that!! Right??
Helen Meier
Member
You're right!!
I would love to shoot at say F/11 or F/8, but I cannot do that with these lenses.
So, if I have a newer DX lens where I COULD shoot at say F/11, my pictures would not look soft/fuzzy?????
I would love to shoot at say F/11 or F/8, but I cannot do that with these lenses.
So, if I have a newer DX lens where I COULD shoot at say F/11, my pictures would not look soft/fuzzy?????
Helen Meier
Member
On the D2H my old AF lenses require setting the F stop at the highest one available!
But...because of your posts I at least know that that is the reason I don't have tack sharp photos!!! I wondered about that...so had been contemplating buying the new DX 17-55. When I went to buy it, the guy said he would not have sold me the D2H and that I would do beter with the D200.
That considered, do you think I would be better off keeping my D2H and getting the new DX lens so I can shoot at F11 or F8 etc??
But...because of your posts I at least know that that is the reason I don't have tack sharp photos!!! I wondered about that...so had been contemplating buying the new DX 17-55. When I went to buy it, the guy said he would not have sold me the D2H and that I would do beter with the D200.
That considered, do you think I would be better off keeping my D2H and getting the new DX lens so I can shoot at F11 or F8 etc??
Helen Meier
Member
Hi Alex!
1. Nikkor AF 28-70 1:3.5-4.5
2. Nikkor AF 35-105 1:3.5-4.5
3. kNikkor AF 70-210 1:4-5.6
4. Nikkor AF 20 1:2.8
5. Nikkor AFS-300 ??
Here is a list of lenses that I have. They are all older AF lenses that require using the highest F stop with the D2H (which of course means I cannot shoot at anything other than F22, F32 etc vs F11 which was always my preferred f stop)
1. Nikkor AF 28-70 1:3.5-4.5
2. Nikkor AF 35-105 1:3.5-4.5
3. kNikkor AF 70-210 1:4-5.6
4. Nikkor AF 20 1:2.8
5. Nikkor AFS-300 ??
Here is a list of lenses that I have. They are all older AF lenses that require using the highest F stop with the D2H (which of course means I cannot shoot at anything other than F22, F32 etc vs F11 which was always my preferred f stop)
Helen Meier
Member
Hi Uncle Frank,
You shoot hummingbirds too! Have probably 5000 humminbird photos!
Some of the posts suggest that by not being able to shoot at F11 or F8 that that is the reason for softer photos. My question to you...what settings do you use ie sharpening in the camera etc. Then when you're in Photoshop CS2 (or whatever program you use) what adjustments are you using??
You shoot hummingbirds too! Have probably 5000 humminbird photos!
Some of the posts suggest that by not being able to shoot at F11 or F8 that that is the reason for softer photos. My question to you...what settings do you use ie sharpening in the camera etc. Then when you're in Photoshop CS2 (or whatever program you use) what adjustments are you using??
Helen Meier
Member
What lenses do you use on your D2H???? Do you shoot RAW or JPG? How much do you have to do in Photoshop and what adjustments do you make?
alex from holland
Senior Member
--Hi Helen,
i don't believe that these lenses are the problem.
I have used a 28-105 and a 28-200 andt they were also very good.
Again, just find somebody who has the same body and make a good compairison.
The d2h MUST be able to produce tack sharp pictures, also with the older lenses.
maybe a stupid remark, but what setting of sharpening are you suing in the camera.
Happy Shooting
alex from holland
http://www.pbase.com/alex28
gear : Just two eyes
'You don't take a picture, it's given to you'
i don't believe that these lenses are the problem.
I have used a 28-105 and a 28-200 andt they were also very good.
Again, just find somebody who has the same body and make a good compairison.
The d2h MUST be able to produce tack sharp pictures, also with the older lenses.
maybe a stupid remark, but what setting of sharpening are you suing in the camera.
Happy Shooting
alex from holland
http://www.pbase.com/alex28
gear : Just two eyes
'You don't take a picture, it's given to you'
Uncle Frank
Forum Pro
If that's true, most of my pictures would be soft. All of my lenses are f/2.8 or faster, and I prefer shooting at wide apertures so I can focus selectively.
In the d70, I had sharpness set to [normal]. In the d200, which has a stronger AA filter, I have sharpness set to +1.
I use PHotoshop's unsharp mask, but I use different settings for each image, Helen. The amount depends on the nature of the capture and the resolution of the crop. And I'll sharpen the primary subject of a picture more than its backgrounds, using layer masking.
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Warm regards, Uncle Frank
FCAS Founder, Hummingbird Hunter, Egret Stalker
Dilettante Appassionato
Galleries at http://www.pbase.com/unclefrank
Helen Meier
Member
I have not used any sharpening in the camera.
I may change that due to some posts that recommend a +2 in the camera.
I've been sharpening in Photoshop.
What do you do??
I may change that due to some posts that recommend a +2 in the camera.
I've been sharpening in Photoshop.
What do you do??
Helen Meier
Member
1. Nikkor AF 28-70 1:3.5-4.5
2. Nikkor AF 35-105 1:3.5-4.5
3. kNikkor AF 70-210 1:4-5.6
4. Nikkor AF 20 1:2.8
5. Nikkor AFS-300 ??
These are my lenses. the only 2.8 is my AF 20mm. That's part of the problem particulary when I can only shoot at F/22 or F/33, right?
I have not used any sharpening in the camera.
In Photoshop CS2, I'm using levels, curves, then the smart sharpen filter.
So, from what I understand from your lenses being 2.8 or faster, that's part of my problem?? If I buy 2.8
2. Nikkor AF 35-105 1:3.5-4.5
3. kNikkor AF 70-210 1:4-5.6
4. Nikkor AF 20 1:2.8
5. Nikkor AFS-300 ??
These are my lenses. the only 2.8 is my AF 20mm. That's part of the problem particulary when I can only shoot at F/22 or F/33, right?
I have not used any sharpening in the camera.
In Photoshop CS2, I'm using levels, curves, then the smart sharpen filter.
So, from what I understand from your lenses being 2.8 or faster, that's part of my problem?? If I buy 2.8
Barry Kelsall210330
Well-known member
Helen, that procedure is for coupling the lens to the body. You are not limited to using one f-stop. In P and S modes, the camera choses the f-stop for you. In A and M modes, you chose the f-stop using the Command Dial.
You should get sharp images from your 70-210 & 300mm lenses. I do believe you would be better off replacing the others, the 17-55 would be a good choice, as would the 35-70 or 28-70 f2.8. The 35-70 is a push-pull zoom, like you are used to with your older zooms in your collection.
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-BK
Helen Meier
Member
If this is the case, I strongly suggest you provide us with the camera settings you use to shoot your D2H (such as sharpness, contrast, white balance, hue, and also AF mode and settings...).
ok, camera settings I use:
I have not used any sharpness in the camera (adjust in Photoshop CS2 with levels, curves, hue/saturation, smart sharpen filter)
White Balance: use flash when shooting w/flash; daylight when shooting in bright daylight; A sometimes; incadescent/flourescent when shooting under those conditions.
Hue: in the camera 0.
AF mode: Group dynamic (1) center area
ok, camera settings I use:
I have not used any sharpness in the camera (adjust in Photoshop CS2 with levels, curves, hue/saturation, smart sharpen filter)
White Balance: use flash when shooting w/flash; daylight when shooting in bright daylight; A sometimes; incadescent/flourescent when shooting under those conditions.
Hue: in the camera 0.
AF mode: Group dynamic (1) center area
Barry Kelsall210330
Well-known member
Helen, I recommend that you start shooting RAW+JPEG & get Nikon Capture. I get the best quality & sharpness processing RAW files. Again, you are not shooting all your photos at f16 or 22 or 32 - that is just the coupling setting so the lens & body communicate.
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-BK
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-BK
Helen Meier
Member
You're right! That was dumb of me!!! Coupling is one thing, the F stop when I shoot is another, duh!! Oh boy, I need to pay more attention!!
But from what you're saying the 2.8 lenses would be much faster and therefore provide me with crisper images. Not just a DX, but a good 2.8 lens as you suggested!
Thanks!
But from what you're saying the 2.8 lenses would be much faster and therefore provide me with crisper images. Not just a DX, but a good 2.8 lens as you suggested!
Thanks!
Helen Meier
Member
Yep, how dumb of me, you're right, the coupling issue is not the same as the shooting F stop! Duh!! 
I have Nikon Capture and Photoshop CS2. Have not done much at all with shooting in RAW, but perhaps that is part of the answer. I will need to learn how to do it, any suggestions or suggestions on how you do it?
I have Nikon Capture and Photoshop CS2. Have not done much at all with shooting in RAW, but perhaps that is part of the answer. I will need to learn how to do it, any suggestions or suggestions on how you do it?
Barry Kelsall210330
Well-known member
NC4 presents a pretty steep learning curve, but if you are already familiar with CS2 you should be able to figure out Capture. The best tip I can give you for starters, once you get your settings where you want, Ctrl "I" will save them for you. Then when you go to the next image, Ctrl "L" will load them for you. Helps when processing photos done in similar conditions.
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-BK
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-BK
Helen Meier
Member
Thanks for the tips, I have copied them for future use! I've not used Capture, so it will be a learning curve, but I'm sure will be well worth it as was CS2!! (I'm STILL learning CS2, but have a friend who is an expert in CS2, so that helps a lot. She also has a Nikon camera and we have both been talking about shooting in RAW, so I'll get her to do it and we can learn together.
Do you ever use the RAW in PS??
Do you ever use the RAW in PS??
StillLearning
Senior Member
This thread has grown. Took me a while to catch up with the other responses.
The lenses you have are okay. The 28-70, 20 and 300 would be your sharper ones. Is there a 'D' on after the aperture designation on the barrel of any of your lenses? If not than theses lenses won't communicate with your flash for the ittl functionality. meaning you could get exposures all over the board.
Which mode do you shoot in most? A(Aperture-Priority), P(Program), S(Shutter-Priority) or M(Manual)? If your shooting in P then you could be ending up with the lens wide open which is not the strength in variable aperture zooms. That would explain one possible less then sharp photos.
Lower shutter speed in P would also cause soft or blurred photos.
Why don't you try a little test. Put your camera on a tripod. Shoot some pictures in 'A' mode. Set your aperture to F8. Since you have NC set to RAW or RAW+JPEG. Take some pictures of a subject with plenty of detail. Try every lense you have. Load them in NC save them in JPG at the excellent setting. Then load them in PS and try your sharpening and see if these are any better.
The lenses you have are okay. The 28-70, 20 and 300 would be your sharper ones. Is there a 'D' on after the aperture designation on the barrel of any of your lenses? If not than theses lenses won't communicate with your flash for the ittl functionality. meaning you could get exposures all over the board.
Which mode do you shoot in most? A(Aperture-Priority), P(Program), S(Shutter-Priority) or M(Manual)? If your shooting in P then you could be ending up with the lens wide open which is not the strength in variable aperture zooms. That would explain one possible less then sharp photos.
Lower shutter speed in P would also cause soft or blurred photos.
Why don't you try a little test. Put your camera on a tripod. Shoot some pictures in 'A' mode. Set your aperture to F8. Since you have NC set to RAW or RAW+JPEG. Take some pictures of a subject with plenty of detail. Try every lense you have. Load them in NC save them in JPG at the excellent setting. Then load them in PS and try your sharpening and see if these are any better.
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