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Photographing Zoo animals through cages

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Chris Sargent

Chris Sargent

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Hi,

I have the opportunity shortly to go on a wildliefe shoot. The animals for the most part will be behind mesh cages. Can anyone offer advice on lens choice and technique to avoid showing the bars...

I have a 5D and will likely hire a long lens for the day. Any suggestions for a good lens for this occaision appreciated..

Thanks

Chris
--
http://www.pixelstate.com
 
any "long" lens will do.

the trick is to keep the subject as far AWAY from the fence as possible, usually at the back of the cage, and to keep your lens AS CLOSE as you can to the fence and use a smaller DOF.

you fence subject
x x x

--
Beauty is in the eye of the photographer

 
If you simply keep your DOF narrow enough, the fence won't be visible in your shots. Although it can be challenging to autofocus through a fence (the autofocus will try focus on the fence each time it passes it), so you may want to focus manually.
--

Chris
http://www.imagineimagery.com
 
Advice if I may add: don't hire too long lens unless you're into bird photography. Also, it's good to hire zoom lens (not prime). Depending on the size of the animal and the distance I think that on 5D zoom 100-400mm L will be long enough. Later, when you become experienced, you will know what lens is perfect for you.
 
One hint: look for a lens with a longer minimum focussing distance, or even better a focus limiting switch.

If you can get closer to the cage / glass than the MFD, the camera should lock onto your subject instead of the cage.

I've got the 200mm f/2.8L, and at the zoo I usually set the focus limiter to 3.5m - infinity (instead of the default 1.5m - infinity). I'm not sure what other Canon lenses have focus limiting switches - maybe someone else can help you here?

Chris
 
It might also help to take the focus off the shutter button. that way the camera wont keep trying to focus
--
Dave.

Gallery @
http://davepearce.smugmug.com
 
Bert_vargas said:
any "long" lens will do.

the trick is to keep the subject as far AWAY from the fence as
possible, usually at the back of the cage, and to keep your lens AS
CLOSE as you can to the fence and use a smaller DOF.

you fence subject
x x x

--
Beauty is in the eye of the photographer

Click to expand...
This day and age many zoos have moved on and offer a more humane and realistic environment. Yes some critters are hard to move out of cages but for many it's a matter of priority and will and money.
 
300 2.8IS with converters is the best lens i've used on a FF camera in a zoo

I've also used a 70-200IS, 100-400IS and the 200 f/2.8, all are good but none give you the range and the small DOF like the 300mm @ f/2.8 or 420mm @ f/4

here's a couple taken through cages

this one may need a little sharpening
300mm f/2.8



420mm f/4



--
http://www.pbase.com/jaxford
 
Very nice shot, nice and moody looking.

A lot of zoos now have glass windows around the enclosures to help viewing. These can be great for photographying through, but make sure you keep your lens right up to the glass to avoid reflection.

It is better to get as close to the wire/fence as possible, so you are shooting as much as possible through the gaps in the fence. Even if the wire is out of focus, it will still be there in the picture as a line of low contrast.

Best shots are early in the day or late in the evening (normally around closing time) as most animals just sit around doing nothing during the day.

I was on one organized trip to a zoo, the head keeper came round with us and this was a great help, first you were able to get right up to the fences (not an option to the general public who have to stay behine safety rails) and also all the animals came alive as the keeping came up to their enclosure (they think they will get some food!)
 
jahern said:
A lot of zoos now have glass windows around the enclosures to help
viewing. These can be great for photographying through, but make
sure you keep your lens right up to the glass to avoid reflection.
Click to expand...
I carry a collapsable rubber lens hood for this purpose. It fits snug against the glass and blocks all rear light without banging the lens on the glass. Very useful for night shooting from inside.

Good luck with your 5D safari!
--
Macro-
http://www.pbase.com/dbh/galleries
 
jahern said:
A lot of zoos now have glass windows around the enclosures to help
viewing. These can be great for photographying through, but make
sure you keep your lens right up to the glass to avoid reflection.
Click to expand...
Polarizing filter can be helpful in such cases.
 
I enjoy taking pictures at zoos.
I have found 2 lens that work very well for this situation.
1. Canon 70-200L F2.8 IS + TC 1.4x II+ hood.....everything
2. Canon 85mm f1.8......................... low light indoor shots/ lizards, etc
both with UV + Pol Filter for outdoor shots.
Unipod in backpack.......just in case
Good luck !!
 
Thanks for the feedback guys... some great posts, loved the pictures James...

I will maybe go for the 300 2.8 with 1.4 Extender... I have a canon 70-200 but only the f4 unfortunately...
--
http://www.pixelstate.com
 
Do you have some advice about shooting snakes in the zoo? They are often in quite dark quarters and behind glass... I think that I will manage to remove reflections on the glass using polarizing filter, but what about lightning? Currently my fastest lens is f/2.8 and with light loss induced by PL filter I doubt that I will manage to hand-hold it.
Thanks!
 
I'd advice getting rubber edging for your hood and using a flash, you'll get good results like this if you have a close focusing lens like a macro.

or you could just use a tripod as snakes don't tend to move much. if you have IS you can sometime get away with out using a tripod.

example using IS because i'm too lazy to carry around a tripod.
300mm @ f/2.8



--
http://www.pbase.com/jaxford
 
Great picture!

Macro lens - checked
Rubber hood - checked
PL filter - checked
Flash - checked
Tripod - checked

Only one question if you don't mind answering - do snakes get disturbed by flash?
 
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