Capacitor question

BatuKMan

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I a friend of mine has 4 Bowens Flash Units in his studio when he uses them simultaneously it causes a surge.

I know that in car audio normally a use of a Capacitor (DC) ends this kind of trouble is there any kind of similar systems for Studio Flash's (AC power)?
Or this doesn't really solves the problem?

Regards,
RVB
 
The strobes need good grounding. Buy a ground tester at a hardware store and make sure the AC outlet is grounded well and also that it is not reversed. You might be surprised how often grounding is an issue.

-Glenn
 
Thanks I'll try that.
But that flashs draw power at an impressive rate.
Yeah... but only 'coz your American electricity is weak as water hasn't got enough grunt to pull the skin off a rice pudding!! One day, when it grows up, it will be proper two-forty volts. ;-)
--
Regards,
Baz
 
Yeah... but only 'coz your American electricity is weak as water
hasn't got enough grunt to pull the skin off a rice pudding!! One
day, when it grows up, it will be proper two-forty volts. ;-)
Well, actually, we do have 240V coming into every house in the US. We have two power leads at opposite phase and a neutral line. The voltage to nuetral (ground) is 120 from each lead, the voltage between the power leads is 240. We have 240V stoves, driers, water heaters, air conditioners, and pool pump.

Circuits to outlets are normally from one of the power leads to neutral (ground) and that provides 120V at the outlet. And that is enough power to serve well and is generally not as lethal as 240V.

Remember that power is the product of the voltage and the current. Double the voltage and you half the current. So it is really not an issue of having enough power.

--
RayT
 
I a friend of mine ... when he uses them simultaneously it causes a surge.
A friend of mine did, as well.

We splitted the charge into two branchs: part (two) of the Flasher still remaining connected to the outlet as before, the others going powered through an additional control-panel. As following:

bring the line (the cables) power-supplying two units, to an automatic Circuit breaker as this:



Well, unlikely than anyone might expect at first, its Amperage has to be referred to the 'MAINTAINANCE CURRENT' the half-group of Strobes wants, once they have completed reciclying; + 'MODELING LAMPS' Wattage (say 2x 250W). A low-Amperage breacker, then; one supporting up to 4 Amp. (x 230V = 920W), is well.

A Button will be able to by-pass the Circuit breaker; the Button beeing accesible on the Control-Panel.
-
Now, think to have all the four Flasher as full recharged and ready to burst:
  • You shoot ;
  • All 4 ones burst, at once requiring huge an Amperage since they start re-cycling ;
  • Those 2 ones still connected on the standard outlet, will go ahead to full recharging ;
  • The 2 breaker-controlled others, will automatically trip OFF as soon as they'll by drying close to 1,000 Watt.
On this while, the 2 free-breaker ones also will be drying nearly the same Power as the 2 breaker-controlled ones do. So, the whole charge due to the Flashers' Plant will not be ever overtaking 2,000 Watt toward the General Circuit breaker in home.
  • In a few seconds the 2 free-breaker Flasher will have their recycle completed (Ready ON) ;
  • Now You can push the by-passing Button, allowing these Units else to just a few seconds to re-start going ahead to complete full-recycling ;.
  • Once these breaker-controlled Units also will be giving 'Ready ON' light, You can release the by-passing Button, going away from the Control-Panel.
As a result, now You get 4 Bowens again, ready to burst and glad to wait for as long as You like: all their Capacitors still maintaining charge.
I know that in car audio normally a use of a Capacitor (DC) ends this kind of trouble
is there any kind of similar systems for Studio Flash's (AC power)?
Or this doesn't really solves the problem?
To take advantage of Condenser working on an AC line, the spike should be acting on very very short a fraction of a second.



Anton
-
 
Have 1 or 2 circuits added with proper circuit breakers by a certified electrician. Ask for slow-reacting breakers such as those used for the biggest 115vac air-conditioners. It's a studio. Trivial expense. Play it safe. Mine's been installed ages ago, so my cost was a few dollars a years.
--
Jean Bernier

All photographs are only more or less credible illusions
 
I forgot to say, You have to manually re-insert the Circuit Breaker right before of releasing the By-pass Button.

Besides of their max-Amperage, Breakers are also featured by the time they take to act opening the Circuit. Some kind, also by a over-Current level they can support to a given time, before of reacting.

Usually, the General Breaker emploied in houses' plants, is a 'slow'-time acting type; to avoid current goes often off due to BRIEF surcarges occurring in starting motors, transformers, ...

So, for the Panel-Control I described, a 'very quick'-time Breaker is better; to avoid You get the Home General Breaker still reacting OFF.

Indeed, the trick (my Panel) could work by the quick-reacting time only, difference between the General and the Secondary (on-Panel) Breaker. If so, no By-passing Button would be needing: just re-start the Breaker after the free-Breaker Units have recycled.

I want to add the Amperage limit also, as a further guarantee; as well as attempting to save the Home General Plant from any while of surcharge, even though a very brief while would want to be.
Anton
 
Have 1 or 2 circuits added with proper circuit breakers ...

... slow-reacting breakers such as those used for the biggest 115vac air-conditioners.
It's a studio. Trivial expense. Play it safe. ...
--
I too am with 'Jean Bernier': the Studio-room is worth some investment on the electrical side, along the years when anyone can afford it.
The layout He describes is for more general purposes, though.
 

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