30D bad dust issues

KevinCrafts

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So I was out shooting some mountain stuff yesterday at f/16, get home to look at the photos and see this huge amount of dust on the images. I haven't even owned this thing for a week and it's so awful. I tried using my rocketblower thing but it's not helping at all. I had my 300D for a year and it never had dust issues like this. Lucky for me I usually don't shoot at more than f/8 but it looks like I will have to spend some money to get it cleaned. I hope it doesn't become a weekly thing. grrr.

I'd like to post an example photo but I don't have access to them now.

--
Kevin Crafts
http://blog.kevincrafts.com
 
Once you clean out the Japanese dust you should be fine. Google for the copperhill sensor cleaning method. I can't post the link because it will be blocked.

Rich
 
thats what happens when you get a camera from the first shipment of a new camera...they sit in the warehouse for a long time

send it to canon for a cleaning, they shouldn't charge you.
--
-Machu

Yes, I realize spelling is a challenge for some of us...I am included in that group, so please forgive me.

The Beauty of IR

 
I too had a dust problem with my 30D and like you was a previous 300D
owner. I went back to my local photo store where i puchased it and they
cleaned it for me at no charge of course. Seems like Canon has a serious
quality control problem.

PJ
 
yeah too bad I mail ordered mine. The local store here overcharges usually so I didn't buy locally. So now either I can send it back to Canon for a few weeks or I can pay the local place to clean it. grrr.

I could understand if it was after a while - but not even a week?

--
Kevin Crafts
http://blog.kevincrafts.com
 
Are you sure? This only shows up a small apertures, typically. So, if you didn't shoot any f8 or higher shots prior to this weekend, you probably wouldn't have even seen the dust.

You can certainly send the camera to Canon for cleaning, but you may want to consider doing it yourself. Dust is a fact of life for DSLRs. Might as well get used to it and now's as good a time as any to learn how to clean your sensor.

I use the Copperhill method and swear by it.

Jerry
I don't think it's from the warehouse because I didn't see the dust
there last week. it appears as thought it appeared over the
weekend. grrr.
--
Kevin Crafts
http://blog.kevincrafts.com
 
--Dust happens. When you get dust on your sensor, clean it and get on with the fun part - shooting images. No need to blame the camera maker.

Remember, he said the sensor was fine when he got it, but he got dust over the weekend.

You should be able to clean your own sensor. There are several methods, the one in the manual, the Copperhill method, and the pixel sweeper method. I call it the Petteri method. Link here:

http://www.prime-junta.net/pont/How_to/a_Brush_Your_Sensor/a_Brush_Your_Sensor.html

Whichever you choose, good luck.
Jim Rickards
 
Sorry about your local store overcharging, I paid MSRP for mine but i'm okay with that because I can go their anytime and try lens and other goodies without feeing obligated to have to buy anything.

PJ
 
just take your time, read the directions through first, and follow them. it's really not that hard. i broke down and bought sensor swabs so i wouldn't have to cut my own and attach them. more expensive, but it makes the task less intimidating to me.
--
codfish

 
I cleaned the sensor using the Copper Hill method 6 times and still have 4 or 5 spots that will not come off. They show up at f8, so they need to be removed! Have any of you had this problem and solved it?

BTW., I cleaned my 10D several times and never had dust that wouldn't come off.

--
Greg
http://www.pictureroanoke.com

Photography is a journey, not a destination.
 
This is not unique to the 30D or Canon.

We'll see a lot of 30D dust complaints on this forum over the next few months because the 30D is the most popular new Canon DSLR at the moment and a lot of people will either be getting their first DSLR or will be upgrading from other models.

I can't explain why the 30D/20D would have more dust issues than other models, but when the 20D came out, we were treated to an awful lot of threads/posts on here where people said: "My 20D has dust - but I never had dust while I was using my: 10D/300D/D30/D60/Nikon/fill-in-the-blank."

I'm not sure if the 20D really does tend to get more dust than these others or if people just happened to notice it more or if they just happened to enounter dusty conditions or changed lenses more or if it was just conincidental and we just see so much on this board that random chance and the anecdotal experiences of new 20D users made it seem that way.

Any of those things are possible. Perhaps the frontmost filter in the 20D has a coating that happens to be more static-prone - who knows???

But in any case, for those of you who are getting a first DSLR or who are getting a 20D or 30D and now find you have dust, please don't worry or get too wound up about it.

It can be cleaned easily enough, and you can do it yourself. The camera can also be cleaned by Canon if you feel you need to go that way.

On the one hand, I think it serves Canon right if you all take your cameras to Canon every time you want them cleaned. This will drive the point home to Canon that we need to be authorized to use methods other than the ineffective bulb blower method outlined in the owner's manual.

But from a practical point of view, I could never live with my 20D if I felt I needed to take or send it in to Canon every time it needed a cleaning.

I clean mine an average of once per week. It depends on conditions and what kind of shooting I will be doing.

I shoot tons of macro and that requires apertures of f/13 or greater most of the time. Thus, I see dust that might not bother other folks at all. I also live in a dry dusty climate and we've got six cats and I'm the one in charge of the cat box - can you spell D U S T??? :)

So anyhow, I've gotten pretty darn used to cleaning my sensor.

It's not hard at all. It's not as scary as you think, and it's not a QC or design fault of the 20D (presumably 30D is the same). It's just dust stuck to the sensor filter by static electricity for the most part. It won't budge if you blow it with a bulb. Sorry.

It may move if you use a brush as suggested by Petteri.

It may require "wet cleaning" as in Copperhill.

I personally use cotton swabs (Yes, plain old Q-Tips) and my condensed breath as well as blowing with a blower about 95% of the time. It works like a charm, is virtually free (maybe 1/2 cent per swab), and has never caused me any problems. I've done this at least a hundred times.

When I feel that the DI water provided by my condensed breath isn't getting things (I need a non-polar solvent) I've been using fresh, clean Everclear lately. That's very pure Ethanol, my friends, and you can get it at your local liquor store.

Alcohol is necessary if you have some kinds of contamination on your sensor filter (such as oils) which require a non-polar solvent. For the more usual dust and crud, you're actually better off with a polar solvent, and that's where your condensed breath is ideal. It's distilled water with a bit of dissolved CO2 to add some carbonic acid. That gives it some ionic content to allow it to dissipate static even better. It's great.

Anyhow, if you feel like it, go ahead and flood Canon with dusty bodies. Maybe they'll publish an improved guide to cleaning the sensors in order to protect themselves from needing to do all of these cleanings.

On the other hand, if you don't have the time to send or take your camera in to Canon constantly, look up Copperhill, Petteri, and the others and get comfortable with cleaning it yourself.

And if even those methods are too expensive or time consuming, you may well eventually get to the point where I'm at and find yourself using a cotton swab and other commonly available methods.

Of course, if you do anything except use a bulb blower (not touching the sensor filter!), you are violating Canon's rules. Read the manual that came with the camera. They tell you how to clean with a bulb blower.

Get one, try it, and always use that method first. If it works, then great. Stick with that as your first line of defense. It's always good to use a bulb blower first even if you are going to do something else next. It'll get the big chunks of grit off, hopefully.

Then, for times when the bulb blower fails to get the job done, you can carefully use one of these other "touching the sensor" methods.

By the way, I take no responsibility for any damage you might do to your camera by using any cleaning method. I'm just relating my experiences here. If you do anything but what Canon recommends, you do it entirely at your own risk - and that's the problem because Canon only recommends the bulb blower.

Good luck everyone!

--
Jim H.
 
Try a polar solvent. Alcohol is a non-polar solvent and won't get some kinds of crud - most, actually.

The most common and safe polar solvent is water. There is a reason why water is often called "the universal solvent".

Anyhow, I recommend that you breathe carefully into the mirror box (in sensor clean mode, of course) such that you get a nice fog of your breath condensed onto the sensor filter. Then swab it with a clean cotton swab - yeah, a Q-tip. Wipe back and forth over the surface until the fog of breath evaporates and/or is wiped off by the swab.

Now check. That gets it 95% of the time for me.

Use a clean swab from a freshly opened package. Don't touch the end you're going to use. Throw it away and get a new one for each swabbing. They're dirt cheap so why not be safe?

Store your swabs in ziplock bags of ten or twenty each. Throw them away if you think they've become contaminated. They're too cheap to worry about.

Be sure to blow the sensor before and after doing this. The first blower treatment gets any big chunks of grit off (hopefully). The 2nd blowing gets any dust that fell in while you were cleaning or came off of the swab.

Also, you're doing this at your own risk. If you've got hard grit on the sensor filter, any "touching the sensor" method may drag it around over the sensor scratching it. I've never heard of that happening, but it could!

Give a polar solvent a try.

Canon allegedly uses a mixture of alcohol and glass cleaner. That way they've got both a polar solvent and a non-polar solvent all at once. That might be good too.

--
Jim H.
 
I don't mean to grandstand or anything but will point out that the character of alcohols depends on which alcohol it is. Have a look at dielectric constants. Water is about E=78 at room temperature. That's polar.

-Methanol is pretty darned polar (E=33) - "organic water" is the description that one often uses.

-Ethanol (E=24) is becoming less polar but will still mix very well with water.

-Propanol - taking iso-propanol as the example - (E=18), butanol - taking n-butanol as the example (E=17) - and n-pentanol (E=14) are much less polar and don't mix as well with water although iso-propanol is still very water miscible. The particular isomer of the alcohol strongly impacts the miscibility.

-Higher alcohols are clearly tending towards non-polar with n-octanol (E=10) being used as the classic example of non-polar alcohol - it separates into two distinct phases with water.

In fact, in some fields of science, compounds are characterized by octanol/water partition coefficient as either non-polar or polar. The more in the water phase, the more polar and the more in the octanol phase, the more non-polar is the compound judged to be.

That said, the alcohols that you can get your hands on: methanol, ethanol and iso-propanol are also the ones that have high vapor pressure so will evaporate from the sensor in a reasonable time. The higher ones will not leave quickly. For degreasing, iso-propanol is probably the best compromise - dissolves in water, evaporates quite quickly, degreases reasonably well and is available.

For real non-polar degreasing hexane would be a good choice (E=2). Now, that's non-polar! It will remove fats very well.

Seriously, I second or third the opinion that, you just have to get used to cleaning your sensor. I use the Sensor Brush from Visible Dust and also cleaning fluid and swabs for the hard stuff. Nothing to it. I do admit it's a paint to have to do though.

Cheers,
Paul
 
Based on what you say, perhaps the reason that Eclipse is methanol is because they want to retain some of that polar action. Not as polar as water, but better than some of the other alcohols. And of course it evaporates very fast.

Still, I've had much better luck with water (condensed breath) than methanol for most sensor dust.

I do sometimes use ethanol when I want something to attack oils. And as you say, it mixes well with water, so you can easily make a blend if you prefer. It's also readily available as in the case of Everclear. But I often do the final "touch up" with condensed breath.

And for the resons you state, I see isopropanol being used in many common eyeglass cleaners. Presumably there is isopropanol, water, and then some trace of cleaning agent. This may be very similar to the blend of alcohol and glass cleaner that Canon is said to use for sensor cleaning.

I prefer a longer "working time" for my sensor and thus, the pure forms of the three commonly available alcohols you mentioned often seem to me to evaporate too quickly.

This, I suppose, is where the blends of alcohol and water-based cleaners comes into play. It gives the crud a bit longer to dissolve or be wiped off.

As you say, hexane is an awesome non-polar solvent. I use it to clean various goo and oil residues from certain things, including electronic applications.

Where I work, they now use it to do analysis for oil contamination because it does extract the oils so well. It's not as handy as Freon TF was, but we all know what happened there. And they now have to use a crappy gravimetric analysis where before, a wonderful spetrophotmetric method was possible :)

I have a friend who has an Olympus DSLR. The dust shaker gizmo works just great. But since they've got it patented, we won't see it on our Canons right away.

Meantime, like you say, it's most convenient to just clean it ourselves. And I've had great luck the vast majority of the time with the condensed breath method. The water that condenses onto the sensor is, by definition, distilled. And I do think that the CO2 that gets dissolved into it may also contribute to its good characteristics.

To me, it seems that the only reason that most dust won't just blow off of the sensor filter is that it's held there by static electricity. The charge on the sensor filter can be neutralized to a very great degree by simply breathing onto it. Thus, the dust is now ready for the swab to pick it right up.

And since the water doesn't evaporate too quickly, you can mop it up rather than have it just evaporate away, leaving the dust behind.

My technique is to run a common cotton swab around over the sensor, back and forth and around the edges watching the fog of water being picked up and moved around. I keep things moving until I get all of the water off. That seems to leave a very clean sensor behind. I follow up with a good blowing to get any dust that might have fallen into the mirror box during the wiping. The less dust in the box, the longer you can go before the next sensor swabbing!

I'm not sure how an alcohol, even methanol, would do in comparison. Water with some carbonic acid in it conducts pretty well. I'm pretty sure the alcohol would not and this may be a large part of why the condensed breath works so well. But I've used very pure DI before too, and had decent luck.

I have also experimented with a bit of quaternary ammonium compound in pure DI to try to give the sensor a bit of an anti-static treatment. But you can't use very much QA in the water, and you must polish it off well or you can see the residue. This treatment seemed to help things quite a bit, but it soon gets cleaned off the next time you have to "wet clean" the sensor. I'm not sure it's worth the effort, and I have no way to do a real scientific study of it.

What are your thoughts about all of that?

--
Jim H.
 

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