come buy my d200 NYC today

looking to sell this d200 right now.

its d200 kit with 18-70 kit lens

BOUGHT THIS 2 DAYS AGO and shot exactly 10 pics with it and packed it back in the box. you can see my invoice that shows I bought it 2 days ago.
Perfect condition with no banding.

The reason I am selling it is because of the HIGH SPEED FLASH SYNC that I need to use with my profoto lighting. And I also regret paying so much and could use the money.

I can bring it back to the store but I paid cash so I'd have to wait for a check in the mail. Pain in the ass.

So if you want a brand new like you got it at the store d200 you can come to my house in brooklyn and buy it off me right away.

E-mail if interesed [email protected]

First of all your are not allowed to post any 'for sale' messages on this forum. I doubt this thread will last through the day ;-).

Second - why didn't you find out before you bought it what the High speed sync was?

marcovitale said:

looking to sell this d200 right now.

its d200 kit with 18-70 kit lens

BOUGHT THIS 2 DAYS AGO and shot exactly 10 pics with it and packed
it back in the box. you can see my invoice that shows I bought it
2 days ago.
Perfect condition with no banding.

The reason I am selling it is because of the HIGH SPEED FLASH SYNC
that I need to use with my profoto lighting. And I also regret
paying so much and could use the money.

I can bring it back to the store but I paid cash so I'd have to
wait for a check in the mail. Pain in the ass.

So if you want a brand new like you got it at the store d200 you
can come to my house in brooklyn and buy it off me right away.

E-mail if interesed [email protected]

Click to expand...

--
ShutterBugin
http://www.exposureproductions.smugmug.com

btw selling for 2100

I paid 2150

I'm offering because I know how backordered it is and I'm sure some would appreciate this

I understand that - but it does not change the rules of the site. Don't worry I wont tell, but dont be surprised if someone does.

marcovitale said:

I'm offering because I know how backordered it is and I'm sure some
would appreciate this

Click to expand...

--
ShutterBugin
http://www.exposureproductions.smugmug.com

If its a problem please delete my thread. Didn't know

Phil will delete if the thread gets reported.

Maybe check out the forum rules for a minute to get aquainted ;-).

marcovitale said:

If its a problem please delete my thread. Didn't know

Click to expand...

--
ShutterBugin
http://www.exposureproductions.smugmug.com

The D200 will synch much higher than 1/250, but your flash has to support it (like the SB-800), and you lose output power. I read the other threads on the lighting forum and don't understand why you need such a fast synch speed. The exposure is controlled by the aperture, the studio flash is so fast that it only illuminates the subject for a small fraction of the time that the shutter is open. Changing the shutter speed will only have the result of picking up more or less of the room ambient light, as others have said.
--
JohnE
Equipment list in profile

'My children say that I am the family paparazzi .'

I can't believe how much missunderstanding there is on your part. Read this and keep the D200.

You don't need more than 1/10 (yes that's right 1/10) shutter speed to take a super sharp photo with 300mm lens handholding in a studio.

Studio light blasts off for only a very brief fraction of a second let's say 1/2000 sec. What you need to make sure is that the camera shutter is open before that blast happens and closes after it's gone. So to ensure that you can user almost any shutter speed on your camera up to the max sync speed of the camera. Shutter speed is irrelevant in studio photography and has absolutely no influence on exposure, only aperture does. Shutter speed lets more of ambient light in the studio (light other than the light produced by the studio flashlight blast). Assuming your studio is setup properly, it should be pitch black (or almost) from the time your shutter opens to the time it closes. The only time there will be light is when the studio flash blasts off for a small duration of 1/2000 sec.

So, if the studio is dark, even though your shutter is open for 1/10 of a second, the actual time when there is some light in there, is 1/2000 sec. This really says that your effective shutter speed is 1/2000, no matter what setting your shutter is at (up to max sync speed of the camera).

If your studio is less than perfect (i.e. it's not pitch black in it), you need to take this into account when setting the shutter speed on camera. The shutter speed needs to be such that you get black frame when you shoot with studio flashes turned off but no more than max sync speed.

If you can't achieve this, then you must work on your studio and reduce ambient light.

Please do research more and read on this. Otherwise you will miss out...

The only time high sync speed is important is when you can't control ambient light, i.e. outside, when it's sunny and you can't turn off the sun (well, I can't).

--
Mario
http://digitalphotographyart.blogspot.com/

please delete this thread

that decision was impulsive plus i just did some banding tests and want to get some of your advice DPREVIEW.

don't want to sell the camera after all

I'm starting a new thread to ask about the banding which I thought didn't exist

sorry