FZ30 Noise...

Ken the B300 and the TCON17 are the same lens. They had quit making the B300 a few years ago and due to popular demand they started making the TCON17 to replace it. The TCON17F is a totally different lens and you don't want to mistake it for the TCON17... :o)
Thanks to Rossuziers and Jimmie.

Hey jimmie, I see that you use the TCON and B300 extender on your
FZ30. I am in the market for one, which do you prefer and why?
There is a very good link given to me on this forum, which rates
the available extenders for use on the FZ30, but the B300 is not
among them. Do you prefer the B300 or the TCON? What is the
difference between a TCON17, and a TCON17'F'? The Nikon was rated
as 'best' on the link, but at over $400, it is not a choice for me.
Regards, Ken.
--
Ken
--
http://www.fototime.com/ {82B1769B-41EC-4681-9475-1AB7968FF96A} picture.JPG
MSGT JIMMIE BURTON USAF RETIRED 1983
Private Pilot & RC Nut
Panasonic ... FZ30
B300, A200, TCON14, C-180, C210
Tokina 3x piece of Junk!
If they make it I stack it.
Epson 750Z - Old Faithful Wifey's


http://www.angelfire.com/ar/thecameranutjwb/ Stacked Lens Examples
http://www.onlinephotographers.com/yabbse/index.php My Main Hangout... ;o)
 
I know its a lost cause, but here is an ISO400 photo with NR low in
the camera and no other NR used and yes its resized to about full
screen on my monitor which is how I view photos.
I think it looks fine given my limited photo skills.....I also have
the original which I just printed at 8 X 10 and it looks at least
this good.
My point is why discuss noise when its not visible?
Pardon me but just because you can't see it, doesn't mean many of us can't. I sincerely doubt I can't see it at 8x10. You get more cropping room with usable resolution, and remember not everyone is satisfied viewing pictures on your monitor the way you do. Also this shot is clearly in good daylight. Try night life and ka-boom. Even indoors.

Keep in mind too that the noise will be less visible depending on what monitor you use. CRT's are more forgiving than say, ultra sharp LCD's with good DR (like Toshiba's CASV laptops, Sony xbrites, to my surprise Apple recent Powerbooks, NEC 980FX series).

However, I don't want to sound all bad- I am very happy that your camera meets your needs. That's #1.
  • Raist


Exposure Time 1/250 sec
F-Number F5.6
Exposure Program Program normal
ISO Speed Ratings 400
Exif Version 2.20
Date/Time Original 2006:02:15 15:31:15
Date/Time Digitized 2006:02:15 15:31:15
Components Configuration YCbCr
Compressed Bits Per Pixel 4 bits/pixel
Exposure Bias Value 0
Max Aperture Value F2.8
Metering Mode Spot
Light Source Unknown
Flash No flash fired, compulsory flash mode
Focal Length 88.8 mm

--
------------------------------------------------------------
Gene
From Western PA.

Panasonic FZ-10 and FZ 20 and FZ30
B300
T Con 17 --two Tcon 14Bs -- Raynox 2020 pro -- DCR 6600

http://imageevent.com/grc6



Just trying to learn and it's slow going!
--
Raist3d
e-volt 300, and some Zuiko lenses. Fuji F710, Panasonic FZ20
Tools/Gui Programmer - vid games industry
 
But now, alas, I must ask a DUMB question; I want to use one of the
noise programs mentioned here, Noise Ninja or Neat Image. I already
have a program for this called Helicon Noise Filter. Is this the
same thing, or are the others better?
Hi Ken,

I know nothing about Helicon Noise Filter. But you can download NeatImage program from http://www.neatimage.com/download.html

The free version of this software comes with some limitations, though.
 
provided courtesy of Gene. Nice shot, and excellent point!
I know its a lost cause, but here is an ISO400 photo with NR low in
the camera and no other NR used and yes its resized to about full
screen on my monitor which is how I view photos.
I think it looks fine given my limited photo skills.....I also have
the original which I just printed at 8 X 10 and it looks at least
this good.
My point is why discuss noise when its not visible?



Exposure Time 1/250 sec
F-Number F5.6
Exposure Program Program normal
ISO Speed Ratings 400
Exif Version 2.20
Date/Time Original 2006:02:15 15:31:15
Date/Time Digitized 2006:02:15 15:31:15
Components Configuration YCbCr
Compressed Bits Per Pixel 4 bits/pixel
Exposure Bias Value 0
Max Aperture Value F2.8
Metering Mode Spot
Light Source Unknown
Flash No flash fired, compulsory flash mode
Focal Length 88.8 mm

--
------------------------------------------------------------
Gene
From Western PA.

Panasonic FZ-10 and FZ 20 and FZ30
B300
T Con 17 --two Tcon 14Bs -- Raynox 2020 pro -- DCR 6600

http://imageevent.com/grc6



Just trying to learn and it's slow going!
 
to Rossuziers & Raist3d

I sure don't want to add "low light shooting" as a FZ30 fault. We have enough FZ30 haters that jump on the n---- bandwagon. Don't you really mean "under-exposure" margin?

In my assessment, the f/3.7 O.I.S Leica from ISO80-ISO200 sensitivity affords exceptional lighting range, low-to-high with excellent IQ especially at focal lengths above 100mm.

I just don't see any low-lighting restriction.

============
johnimage
 
with expectations in the dslr strata, which are still pretty unrelistic the 30 is really only limited to static available light... I've had mixed results handheld with the 30





although I've not really done a lot of it recently since getting the 30 niether & yes it's not as forgiving when under-exposed as some other prosumers might be... But in actuallity aside from the Fuji's I don't think any prosumer is the ideal handheld night shooter or non-flash available light shooter.. At least not without a modicum of luck... I've basically spent the last 5 years forcing the issue at low iso with my Ezi (e100rs)



The Uzi (c2100uz)



& even the 8080



But if it were the majority of my shooting, I'd either always have a tripod with me or get a Dslr & really fast lenses.... If I didn't have the 'IS' & or a reasonably fast lenses & something to lean on.. I'd be F* #ed...

Not a whole lot has really changed for me in the past 5 years... Except the files have truely doubled... But most of the improvements have been handling and speed related & I predict the last & possibly final real hurdle is just now being addressed as the Prosumer Iso wars will incrementally escalate with a skirmish every year for the next several before good high iso & long reach are consistant throughout all makes... Unfortunately the Dslr binge is hindering the Prosumer catagory & that's gonna incrementalize iso improvement even further....

The Fz's for my money are like the Uzi before them.. The best all around chance at getting the shot with the least fuss... Some do one or two things a little better but don't reach as far & with just a little more effort in PP which I've yet to resort to. The 30 can clean up to the level of those one or two things those other cams do better @ the time of the taking but those cams can't reach as far in PP...

I'm in it for the fun, not as a job or to capture those once in a lifetime kid moments around the house.... And if someone has kids & wants to snap of those once in a lifetime, in-house Kodak moments... I'd really suggest having a Dslr handy all the time, especially since 420mm is a bit much for across the living room shots.... And then a long lens can be slapped on for the little league or school stuff too... Although the Fz30 could probably do well for outdoor activities... With any luck focus, shutter lag & EVF refresh rates will climb the rest of the way along with the Iso but I don't think the focus & shutter lag has as far to go as EVF refresh & Iso has... But once everything comes together a few generations down the digi-cam line, complete with 'OIS" & real good high ISO.. We'll all be happy & the camera companies can start up another MP race & further miniaturize till the Fz30 is a clip-on on our sunglasses with satellite trasmissions directly to our home puters
Or at least that's the way I see it...
Does that Make sense???
to Rossuziers & Raist3d

I sure don't want to add "low light shooting" as a FZ30 fault. We
have enough FZ30 haters that jump on the n---- bandwagon. Don't
you really mean "under-exposure" margin?

In my assessment, the f/3.7 O.I.S Leica from ISO80-ISO200
sensitivity affords exceptional lighting range, low-to-high with
excellent IQ especially at focal lengths above 100mm.

I just don't see any low-lighting restriction.

============
johnimage
--

'Happy Shootin'



[email protected] http://www.pbase.com/rrawzz ****
EffZeeThreeZero/CeeEightZeroEightZeroDoubleUZee
CeeTwoOneZeroZeroUZee/EOneHuderedAreEss
 
Thanks for the kind words and good advice, Jimmie.

I purchased the TCON17 last night, and it is a 'no suffix' model, just plain TCON17, no letter. It screws right oh the Leica lens with no adapter, right? The only problem that I see, is that the two lenses are EXTREMELY close when screwed all the way in. Could they ever touch? It would be a disaster if you had a little unseen grit on your lens and ground it into the Leica lens...I think I am making myself SICK!

What do you do to prevent this? How about a double threaded filter to keep on the Leica lens permanently, and screw the TCON onto the filter, would this effect anything? Thanks for your words of welcome, and your help here, Regards, Ken.
--
Ken
 
No empty talk, just post the comparisons and let them speak for themselves. I've done the same thing, even analyzing the noise using Neat Image (which will give a reading on all the different noise types found) and just haven't found that big a difference. Once more, I'm now using a Canon 350D and FZ30 interchangeably and don't feel let down. Even the Canon has sky noise!

All digital cameras have noise. The smaller sensor prosumers have the worst noise. Of the that noise, the FZ30 is maybe 10%, or less, worse than average. Like it or not, people see noise, which they'd see in any prosumer, and then read about the FZ30's noise level, and then dump the blame on the FZ30. If you'd put a FZ badge on a Canon 80 and had 'em take pictures the complaints would be the same.

Most prosumers aren't that good at taking indoor pictures, especially those with action. If you only want "snapshots" they can be fine. With a few exceptions (like the F10/11/20) all cameras are very similar. I'm not trying to justify the FZ30 here. Some very average situations would really benefit from a dSLR - no argument here, that's why I have one.

Nothing against the original poster either . His need is real, but remember, over the last 30 years most indoor pictures were taken with a flash. Indoor, natural light photography didn't really evolve till the event of high speed color film, and then high ISO capabable dSLRs.

Another great comparison, which some guy posted with a satiric title so maybe it got missed, is here:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1033&message=17358830

Which camera would you rather own?

One last point. I'm convinced noise does NOT go up with MP. What happens is that the increased resolution allows you to see more noise detail. If the noise was filtered out to get the same amount of MP, the noise would be about the same. Think about it. Same total light, same CCD area, less light per pixel but more pixels. You're just seeing finer and finer variations. The noise was always there but hidden.
 
with expectations in the dslr strata, which are still pretty
unrelistic the 30 is really only limited to static available
light... I've had mixed results handheld with the 30
....Pics here are pretty good. The 1st FZ30 shot is good but the second was shot at -2EV and looks it. The Oly Pics are good too and all in tricky lighting. ...Sounds like your "low-light" definition is a bit different than mine. Outdoor night-time photography (> 2 second shutter speed) is a bit specialized. I agree that a tripod is mandatory hence, I.S. is not applicable. I guess my definition of low-light is less extreme.
the Prosumer Iso wars will incrementally escalate with a skirmish
every year for the next several before good high iso & long reach
are consistant throughout all makes... Unfortunately the Dslr binge
is hindering the Prosumer catagory & that's gonna incrementalize
iso improvement even further....
... Well said and, it has been a concern of mine for quite while too. I really believe the technologist can improve EV & IQ with small sensors by another magnitude but not, if buyers/enthusiasts insist on propagating large-sensor SLR technology.
I'm in it for the fun, not as a job or to capture those once in a
lifetime kid moments around the house.... And if someone has kids &
wants to snap of those once in a lifetime, in-house Kodak
moments... I'd really suggest having a Dslr handy all the time,
I'm in it for the fun too: But get this: Today I borrowed a friend's awesome D200 with a 17-70 Niikkor. Set it for ISO1600 and tried to do some mid-day indoor children's photography (of my grandkids.) ....I got some news for everyone! While it might be impressive to shoot up to 5 FPS w. RAW, there was still insufficient shutter speed to capture indoor kids-in-action. My yield was poor. Turned to the built-in flash and the FZ30 produced more keepers than the D200!
Does that Make sense???
Everything except the miniaturized sunglass cam scenario.

=============
johnimage
 
with expectations in the dslr strata, which are still pretty
unrelistic the 30 is really only limited to static available
light... I've had mixed results handheld with the 30
....Pics here are pretty good. The 1st FZ30 shot is good but the
second was shot at -2EV and looks it. The Oly Pics are good too
and all in tricky lighting. ...Sounds like your "low-light"
definition is a bit different than mine. Outdoor night-time
photography (> 2 second shutter speed) is a bit specialized. I
agree that a tripod is mandatory hence, I.S. is not applicable. I
guess my definition of low-light is less extreme.
Ya lost me here..
None of these were on a tripod. None were anywhere near 1 second let alone 2...

I'm mildly used to getting these speeds handheld although ½ sec is pushin' it.. The last shot was the longest @ ½second with a couple 1/4ths, a 1/6th & a 1/25th.. All handheld.. Although the last 8080 shot I was leaning on my car door... The middle 3 were all -2EV & while I said I force low iso... that Christmas (Ezi) shot was on auto-ISO & came up 200... I also said none were Noise reduced but I forgot about what I tried on The one with the band playin but it was into a mirror & the extent of NR on it was a touch of gaussen blur prior to any of the usual stuff consisting of a little levels & USM...Nowadays I've replaced levels with shadow & highlight tool & the ususal touch of USM... I just remembered that gaussen move... It was experimental & quite seldom that I ever used it... And that second shot I threw in to show the inconsistancy & result that emphasizes the unforgiving underexposure, at least as compared to the Uzi.. That cam is more forgiving.. That 2nd shot was soft too...
the Prosumer Iso wars will incrementally escalate with a skirmish
every year for the next several before good high iso & long reach
are consistant throughout all makes... Unfortunately the Dslr binge
is hindering the Prosumer catagory & that's gonna incrementalize
iso improvement even further....
... Well said and, it has been a concern of mine for quite while
too. I really believe the technologist can improve EV & IQ with
small sensors by another magnitude but not, if buyers/enthusiasts
insist on propagating large-sensor SLR technology.
That's the key...

In order for these prosumers to retain a manageable size & to prevent 12x lenses form losing the low F/Stop numbers, of which the Fz30 is at the uppermost limit now , with the Sony R1 being over the limit at least for me size wise... They're going to have to improve the same size ccds they're already using & hopefully maintaining the 8mp... I think it can be done but with the slowdown in prosumer upgrades due to the Dslr push.. They're going to take thier time & try & push us all into applying to the BHU...

Wouldn't hurt if they threw us a firmware bone though, to quiet at least the color noise, if not, any & all noise but I aint betting on it... I'd even pay $25 for it...
I'm in it for the fun, not as a job or to capture those once in a
lifetime kid moments around the house.... And if someone has kids &
wants to snap of those once in a lifetime, in-house Kodak
moments... I'd really suggest having a Dslr handy all the time,
I'm in it for the fun too: But get this: Today I borrowed a
friend's awesome D200 with a 17-70 Niikkor. Set it for ISO1600 and
tried to do some mid-day indoor children's photography (of my
grandkids.) ....I got some news for everyone! While it might be
impressive to shoot up to 5 FPS w. RAW, there was still
insufficient shutter speed to capture indoor kids-in-action. My
yield was poor. Turned to the built-in flash and the FZ30 produced
more keepers than the D200!
That's why when I read request to suggest the cam for catching the kids running around the house candids, there's just no way the 30 is up to it without the flash but I would expect that Nikon would pull it off with a fast, wide lens & that high of ISO...

I guess that's what I get for parroting the virtues of high ISO, fast lensed Dslrs Those baggage handlers always espouse... What can I say, I took thier word for it ;-}
Does that Make sense???
Everything except the miniaturized sunglass cam scenario.
Well maybe not in our lifetimes ;-}
=============
johnimage
--

'Happy Shootin'



[email protected] http://www.pbase.com/rrawzz ****
EffZeeThreeZero/CeeEightZeroEightZeroDoubleUZee
CeeTwoOneZeroZeroUZee/EOneHuderedAreEss
 
I think many people agree that FZ30 is great camera, but have anonying thing on the Noise which is high.

If panasonic want to create the FZ 40, because canon already release S3IS and Sony already launch H2 and H5. I think Panasonic also will launch FZ 40 this year.

what I suggest:

1. The most important is reducing the Noise until at least same as competitor noise. at High ISO 800 too.
use the venus engine II and new sensor.
2. If we can have more optical Zoom say it 15X or 20X it will be great.
and also add the extra zoom too, by using the lower resolution.
3. Start from 28 mm instead of 35mm.
4. Better IS
5. if we can add the MP4 will be great
6. faster and better focus at tele
just my 2c

Please add yours
 
or expose the photo correctly
That is definitly category "C" answer from jthommo"s post earlier.
--
Through conscious beings the universe has generated self-awareness

 
Ya lost me here..
None of these were on a tripod. None were anywhere near 1 second
let alone 2...
....Sorry for my bad assumption these were in the > 1 seconds category.

As far as hand-held night-time photography, I think you have a good handle of it even with the FZ30. I have not taken too many photos of this type myself and, the few I have with the FZ30 would not been wall-worthy. But, I still am unclear how/why the -2EV can ever be helpful in these night-time conditions and, why so many avoid ISO200 even under these lighting situations.
Wouldn't hurt if they threw us a firmware bone though, to quiet at
least the color noise, if not, any & all noise but I aint betting
on it... I'd even pay $25 for it...
.....I'd pay too. In fact, if pannie can output a .jpg with absolutely no noise adjustmentl, that too might help the external NN, NI, PC software.
I guess that's what I get for parroting the virtues of high ISO,
fast lensed Dslrs Those baggage handlers always espouse... What can
I say, I took thier word for it ;-}
......Yea: +2EV would have done it but unsure if +1EV would have been good enough. The D200 lacks ISO3200 and there were no f/1.2 fixed Nikkors in the loaned bushel of parts. So, I could not prove or disprove if flash-less indoor children's protography is at all practical. ...Bottom line: For me, indoor children's action photography is really a contest of flash units and hence, a small-sensored Prosumer is just as good as any and, the FZ30 better than most.

============
johnimage
 
Ken I've been using my old B300 for several years on several diff cameras and it's never touched any lens that I know of. I kinda just take a close look at it bofore screwing it onto the camera and if I see anything that resembles dust or anything else I just blow it off... :o)

--
http://www.fototime.com/ {82B1769B-41EC-4681-9475-1AB7968FF96A} picture.JPG
MSGT JIMMIE BURTON USAF RETIRED 1983
Private Pilot & RC Nut
Panasonic ... FZ30
B300, A200, TCON14, C-180, C210
Tokina 3x piece of Junk!
If they make it I stack it.
Epson 750Z - Old Faithful Wifey's


http://www.angelfire.com/ar/thecameranutjwb/ Stacked Lens Examples
http://www.onlinephotographers.com/yabbse/index.php My Main Hangout... ;o)
 
Ya lost me here..
None of these were on a tripod. None were anywhere near 1 second
let alone 2...
....Sorry for my bad assumption these were in the > 1 seconds category.
As far as hand-held night-time photography, I think you have a good
handle of it even with the FZ30.
Well it's all due to 'OIS'... It's a challenge to try & hold anything less than 1/100th regardless if it's night, day, indoors or out...
I have not taken too many photos
of this type myself and, the few I have with the FZ30 would not
been wall-worthy. But, I still am unclear how/why the -2EV can
ever be helpful in these night-time conditions and, why so many
avoid ISO200 even under these lighting situations.
Actually I'll probably resort to Auto-ISO but I'm not interested in noisewaring anything let alone everything, since I'm ultimately interested in eliminating PP entirely but that just isn't possible yet... Not the smartest philosophy to take but it's the one I choose...

As for such drastic -EV comp. It's a bad habbit from my Uzi days since it tended to over-expose in lesser light & rather than change to 'M' mode -EV was the easier way to try & compensate & on that 2nd Fz 30 shot, it was a combination of the cam trying to over-expose & my trying to get a faster shutter speed... Plus at that time, the cam was new & I was experimenting, getting to know it & comparing it to the cam it was replacing... I doubt I'll ever shoot anything @ minus 2 EV again...
Wouldn't hurt if they threw us a firmware bone though, to quiet at
least the color noise, if not, any & all noise but I aint betting
on it... I'd even pay $25 for it...
.....I'd pay too. In fact, if pannie can output a .jpg with
absolutely no noise adjustmentl, that too might help the external
NN, NI, PC software.
The key as I see it is rather than eliminating the noise by smear tactics that destroys detail & softens edges.. They have to refine or elimanate the noise so it doesn have to be smeared at all... No matter what the camera but they have to do it in the existing sized CCD's they already are using... I don'y know how they'd do it though but they have to eliminate it @ the pixel level before it gets to the point where software has to attemp to get rid of it once it's recorded.... What's it called? Signal to noise ratio, I think? I'm not an engineer ;-} Clean up the CCD form the start so it catches more light without producing the noise and blooming too.... Or so it would seem to me...
I guess that's what I get for parroting the virtues of high ISO,
fast lensed Dslrs Those baggage handlers always espouse... What can
I say, I took thier word for it ;-}
......Yea: +2EV would have done it but unsure if +1EV would have
been good enough. The D200 lacks ISO3200 and there were no f/1.2
fixed Nikkors in the loaned bushel of parts. So, I could not prove
or disprove if flash-less indoor children's protography is at all
practical. ...Bottom line: For me, indoor children's action
photography is really a contest of flash units and hence, a
small-sensored Prosumer is just as good as any and, the FZ30 better
than most.
Flash is the key as long as there's at least enough light for focus to work or the hyperfocal method can be used...
============
johnimage
--

'Happy Shootin'



[email protected] http://www.pbase.com/rrawzz ****
EffZeeThreeZero/CeeEightZeroEightZeroDoubleUZee
CeeTwoOneZeroZeroUZee/EOneHuderedAreEss
 
What about a cell phone...
 
that's more like it.

I'll try what you suggested. To be honest with you, I have my eye on the Rebel XT....we'll see what happens!
 

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