Edgar Lydias
Active member
Find that hard to believe. Sorry. Learn your camera.
Play with the Parameters. Use the Creative modes.
Shoot RAW and then repair if necessary.
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I'm crazy maybe, but I'm sticking with the 300D another year
- Thread starter BigMike
- Start date
Play with the Parameters. Use the Creative modes.
Shoot RAW and then repair if necessary.
Not crazy at all. We spend toooooo much time worrying if " we" have the most up to date kit. In reality as others have said we should concentrate on getting the opportunity for a great photograph as well as developing the eye to spot one when we see it!
Paul De Bra
Forum Pro
The 300D takes wonderful pictures. It may not be the best for fast sports, which I don't shoot, and its AF isn't the best, which is why I replaced the focusing screen by a split prism one. (And that lets me see that the AF is in fact doing a remarkably good job most of the time.)
A bit of grey matter with common sense goes a long way towards replacing a lot of expensive gear. Flash power control may not be the best on the 300D. Well, I use an old powerful flash with not much control, but all it takes is to judge that power, and adjust aperture and ISO accordingly. No problem whatsoever, and small errors in exposure can be easily corrected in RAW.
Same is true without flash when using M mode. You just watch whether you are aiming at a dark or a bright subject and let the exposure meter be in the plus or minus accordingly. When you are shooting in mostly the same circumstances for several shots in a row the exposure should not vary wildly, so M mode works very well there.
Nope, when I save some money it will most likely go toward a Tokina 12-24 and/or a 70-300IS, but most certainly not toward a new body.
Slowly learning to use the DRebel (only around 20.000 shots) and now also the Fuji F11.
Public pictures at http://wwwis.win.tue.nl/~debra/photos/
A bit of grey matter with common sense goes a long way towards replacing a lot of expensive gear. Flash power control may not be the best on the 300D. Well, I use an old powerful flash with not much control, but all it takes is to judge that power, and adjust aperture and ISO accordingly. No problem whatsoever, and small errors in exposure can be easily corrected in RAW.
Same is true without flash when using M mode. You just watch whether you are aiming at a dark or a bright subject and let the exposure meter be in the plus or minus accordingly. When you are shooting in mostly the same circumstances for several shots in a row the exposure should not vary wildly, so M mode works very well there.
Nope, when I save some money it will most likely go toward a Tokina 12-24 and/or a 70-300IS, but most certainly not toward a new body.
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Slowly learning to use the DRebel (only around 20.000 shots) and now also the Fuji F11.
Public pictures at http://wwwis.win.tue.nl/~debra/photos/
Lars Clausen
Member
Can you give some pointers to replacing the focusing screen? Sounds interesting -- especially after having experienced a lens that had focussing problems.
-Lars
photography skills rather than getting a new camera. well at least a new camera won't help it anyway. 
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http://www.pbase.com/antidote3
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http://www.pbase.com/antidote3
balloonchasers
Senior Member
Same here. Actually I may have skipped two or three generations of technology. Went from a Olympus OM-1n to Canon 300D. Always a better bell and whistle for someone chase after. Staying with 300D until it wears out and then I will first check on repair possibilities. ;-)
Wayne Larmon
Forum Pro
(nt) means "no text" Which, apparently, the DPreview software hasn't heard of. Which is why I needed to write this worthless body text.
I don't have much choice, since I just don't have the cash to buy a new camera these days. In all honesty the 300D is still doing fine for me. I do wish I had AI-Servo and slightly faster burst with RAW...
If I felt I had to get a new body right now, I'd probably buy a 20D as the price is droping and/or when they start to close them out.
If I felt I had to get a new body right now, I'd probably buy a 20D as the price is droping and/or when they start to close them out.
charon2112
Forum Enthusiast
I'd do almost anything for a digital Canon A-1...
pgb
Senior Member
' beaten the habit' LOL
So true though. Don't get addicted to marketing hype.
Peter
So true though. Don't get addicted to marketing hype.
Peter
swnw
Senior Member
It works fine, I like it, I know how to manage camera's limitation. When it will dead I will be sad 
and I'll upgrade but not now.
I second you BigMike.
swnw
and I'll upgrade but not now. I second you BigMike.
swnw
Paul De Bra
Forum Pro
You can find a lot of information on replacing the focusing screen when you google for haoda focusing screen. Here is a good link:
http://www.camerahacker.com/Tools/Installing_Haoda_Screen.shtml
Now, what I did was to take a focusing screen from an old film body (an Olympus OM-G in my case) and file it down to size, and around the corners I also had to file down the thickness., so the split prism would be in the exact position. (You'd be amazed how much 1/100mm matters in thickness.)
It was a bit of work, but not all that hard. It really helps a lot in achieving or at least confirming correct focus on the 300D. I wasn't so sure about keeping that camera for a long time, until I replaced the focusing screen. It makes me much more confident about focus. In fact, I sometimes wish I had not sold the optically excellent Signa 18-125. I sold it because with my camera it could not focus correctly (mostly at the long end), but with the focusing screen I would immediately notice and be able to correct it.
Slowly learning to use the DRebel (only around 20.000 shots) and now also the Fuji F11.
Public pictures at http://wwwis.win.tue.nl/~debra/photos/
http://www.camerahacker.com/Tools/Installing_Haoda_Screen.shtml
Now, what I did was to take a focusing screen from an old film body (an Olympus OM-G in my case) and file it down to size, and around the corners I also had to file down the thickness., so the split prism would be in the exact position. (You'd be amazed how much 1/100mm matters in thickness.)
It was a bit of work, but not all that hard. It really helps a lot in achieving or at least confirming correct focus on the 300D. I wasn't so sure about keeping that camera for a long time, until I replaced the focusing screen. It makes me much more confident about focus. In fact, I sometimes wish I had not sold the optically excellent Signa 18-125. I sold it because with my camera it could not focus correctly (mostly at the long end), but with the focusing screen I would immediately notice and be able to correct it.
--
Slowly learning to use the DRebel (only around 20.000 shots) and now also the Fuji F11.
Public pictures at http://wwwis.win.tue.nl/~debra/photos/
Thanks for the replies, people. There really are advantages to skipping a model or two, like getting more bang for the buck, and noticing more improvements this way. Like you, I'm still having a blast with the 300D, and do not feel like I'm missing out on anything yet. So lets see how us 300D users do agains't the XTs and 20Ds ths year. I bet we hold our own!
Once in a while, please check back several pages in the forum, for posts that may have been overlooked. Thanks!
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Once in a while, please check back several pages in the forum, for posts that may have been overlooked. Thanks!
Hauxon
Leading Member
We should thank Canon for making us confident in the cameras we already have. I will most likely have my 300D for another year like you and see then if I can afford a FF camera.
The normal computer electronics lifecycle is usaually about 18 months, but it doesn't neccisarily apply to digital cameras. If the Moore's law applied we would be seeing sensors with pixel pitch smaller than the wavelenght of light in 2 or 3 years wich is not very realistic.
I just bought a battery grip for my (black) 300D and normal people still think it must be a really expensive professional camera. Wich is good because I use it in my studio
http://www.pbase.com/hauxon
The normal computer electronics lifecycle is usaually about 18 months, but it doesn't neccisarily apply to digital cameras. If the Moore's law applied we would be seeing sensors with pixel pitch smaller than the wavelenght of light in 2 or 3 years wich is not very realistic.
I just bought a battery grip for my (black) 300D and normal people still think it must be a really expensive professional camera. Wich is good because I use it in my studio
http://www.pbase.com/hauxon
Kevin O''Farrell
Active member
I think you've got the right idea. I went from the 300 to the 350 and now I have a camera that leaves a lot of room for me to grow before I exceed its capabilities. So I'm sticking with it for the next year or two and whatever money I spend is on some more glass - maybe the 17-40L or something similiar.
Rodrigo Moreira
Well-known member
And calibrate your monitor !
Lars Clausen
Member
Thank you! Not sure if I'm up for that kind of hackery on my camera, but I'll keep the reference around.
Curiously, I opted for the Sigma 18-125 instead of kit lens, and am currently having it replaced exactly for focus problems. I do hear many complain about its AF being way off on some units, but just fine on others, so I figure I'll complain until they get it right
-Lars
You're not crazy, you're actually doing a smart thing. I'm sure Canon would love for you to 'upgrade' every time they release the next generation camera, but if the current camera meets you needs there is no need. I'm sure you don't run every year when the next year's cars are released.
I waited 4 years from when I bought my prosumer Fuji until I finally made the step up to DSLR. I just ordered by 350D and I'm sure I will be using it for many years.
I waited 4 years from when I bought my prosumer Fuji until I finally made the step up to DSLR. I just ordered by 350D and I'm sure I will be using it for many years.
I was thinking about waiting a bit longer, but I find myself waiting for the camera to write images, and losing photo oportunities on a regular basis. I shoot wildlife, and I´d like a fast camera, so that's why I'm thinking about the 1D MkIIN. Is a huge step, but if I can dig enough for it, I'll do it. The 30D will be my second option, but only if I can't manage to get enough money.
(Options depends on money, of course)
Option 1: 1DMkIIN + 17-40 L + 100-400 L IS + 100 Macro + 50 1.8
Option 2: 1DMkIIN + 17-40 L + 100 Macro + 50 1.8
Option 3: 30D + 100-400 L IS + 100 Macro + 50 1.8
Option 4: 30D + 100 Macro + 50 1.8
Option 5: 100-400 L IS + 100 Macro + 50 1.8 (no body upgrade)
Option 6: 100 Macro + 50 1.8 (sniff sniff, the budget one)
--
visit
at http://www.ocando.net
Martin Ocando
(Options depends on money, of course)
Option 1: 1DMkIIN + 17-40 L + 100-400 L IS + 100 Macro + 50 1.8
Option 2: 1DMkIIN + 17-40 L + 100 Macro + 50 1.8
Option 3: 30D + 100-400 L IS + 100 Macro + 50 1.8
Option 4: 30D + 100 Macro + 50 1.8
Option 5: 100-400 L IS + 100 Macro + 50 1.8 (no body upgrade)
Option 6: 100 Macro + 50 1.8 (sniff sniff, the budget one
)--
visit
at http://www.ocando.net
Martin Ocando
MikeyHeights
Forum Enthusiast
to the 20D, primarily to get improved sports performance. Then I go to the sixers game last week, and take this pic with my 300D and Sigma 70-200 2.8. Not bad for a handheld shot, at 800 ISO:
Maybe I'll stick with the 300D a little longer.
Mike
Maybe I'll stick with the 300D a little longer.
Mike
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