Framing: Glass vs. Acrylic?

I think I read somewhere in Wilhelms huge site, that UV is not, contrary to the opinions of many, the primary cause of fading. In fact he warns against using UV blocking glass because the rate of fade then becomes variable by wavelength/color, and images become more unbalanced with time under UV glass than not.

It's a big topic with much still onle guessed at, I think.

Fopr example, in the commecial printing world and in the art-supply industry, there are ASTM lightfast standards, British Standards and others. BWW, Blue Wool and other indexes have been around for yonks.

Why are we in the inkjet world only able to use one authority, Wlhelm, when accepted broad industry-wide standards for lightfastness are used elsewher?
 
Where aircraft use plastic for windows and windscreens, they use Plexiglass, a brand of acrylic, which filters out 99.5% of UV.
 
Further info to help:

At: http://www.artfacts.org/standards/glz_2001.html

this is said:

"5.00 Normal Glazing Materials

5.01 UV Blocking qualities normal glazing (glass or acrylic) glass (soda-lime float glass), in thicknesses normally used for picture framing (2.0 – 3.0 mm) blocks about 40 percent of the UV light in the 300 to 400 nm range. Acrylic, in the same thicknesses, blocks about 66 percent of the UV."

This shows that acrylic is more effective than glass at the same thickness. As acrylic users often use 1 - 2 mm and glass users use 2 - 3mm, there's not much in it either way.
 
I agonize over all these issues everytime I have a nice print I want to frame. I have a bunch of 12x16 prints (shot with my E-1) on my walls now, some I framed myself with kits from Blicks, cost~$40 but the acrylic scratches REAL EASY. The best prints I had framed at a local gallery. They have something like 5 grades of glass, base, premium with uv protection, non-glare textured, and nonglare, multi-coated 'museum' glass.

Trying to stay within some sort of budget I have used the premium uv filtered glass, ~$160 for framed, matted 12x16 print. The standard non-glare glass is sorta sand blasted so that the surface is not so reflective - downside, it's not as clear either, sort of taking one step foward, and two steps back! The über glass to lust after is the coated stuff, with an antireflective coating applied to the surface similar to that applied to quality lenses. I am not sure about the long term durability of the coating, but the glass just dissapears, letting one admire the art beneath. Downside? Cost, it would have added~$100 to each of my framed 12x16s. Ouch!Kind of puts it in the same unobtainable class as 1dsMKII cameras and 300mm f/2.8 lenses!

Best,
Karaya
http://www.pbase.com/karaya
 
Hey folks,

This is an interesting thread, with some great advice. I want to clear up a couple things that are floating around though. For the record, I am a professional picture framer with 20 years of experience.

0.1 the use of glass or plexiglass should be decided not on price etc...but on what you need the glazing to do. Example: pastel drawings HAVE to have glass. Another example: something very sensitive to UV light will require high quality UV blocking glass (such as antique Japanese prints).

0.2 plexiglass prices vary a lot for many reasons but most importantly remember it is a petroleum product ...

1. In terms of UV protection, neither regular glass or regular plexiglass will do all that much. IF your art is going to be exposed to a lot UV light (this means across from a window or a glass walled room) then you should either: use a UV blocking glazing or rotate your work to reduce exposure.

2. UV blocking plex products like Cryo's OP-3 (which I use a lot of) blocks better than most plain products, about 70%. It is a good product that will help, but it is also very costly when compared to regular glass or regular plexiglass. Expect it to be about 2.5 the money of regular (framing quality) plexiglass. Also, OP-3 and its relatives all add a small amount of yellow color to the image. Regular glass will add green, regular plexiglass is neutral.

3. Not all plexiglass is the same. The stuff in the hardware store with blue plastic covering is basically the worst ... paper wrapped (some is now plastic wrapped but same quality - wrapping is "paper colored") is the best in general. VERY important if you make large works, try to get "cast" plexiglass, not extruded. Expect it to be more $ but the payoff is less "wavyness" and fewer bits of debris inbedded in the plexi.

4. All plexi will scratch pretty easily, be gentle ! Of course you should be gentle with all art in a frame !! The cleaner/polish mentioned elsewhere is great (brilliantize). There are polishes made to take out scratches as well (look for Novus #2 or #3).

5. NOW if you have a real UV problem, ie, either a LOT of light or art that is very sensitive to UV. You are going to have to use a museum quality UV blocking glass. The rub ? It is very expensive, you'll probably be shocked and assume they have made a mistake when you hear the price. Things like Denglass UV is capable of blocking about 97% of the UV. There is not a comparble type of plexiglass so you are stuck with having to be careful in handling/shipping etc. The advantage, as mentioned elsewhere, is that the glass is more clear than even regular plexi. When viewed strait on it simply isn't there. The effect is startling if seen side by side with other products. Many of these are also "non-glare" but that aspect is not from sand blasting (as in cheap non-glare glass) but rather from the use of optical coatings very much like what is on the front of your camera lenses. In fact, when viewed sideways they will have the same purple/green reflections you see on a lens. If you do shop around, PLEASE make sure when comparing prices that you are comparing the same brand, same model. These specialized glazings vary a lot in price... don't just say "UV blocking glass".

A couple of quickies: never ever buy cheap non-glare glass, plexi shouldn't be more than 2 or 2.5 times the price of glass. Shop around a bit and support your local shop.

Sorry for the long post ....

David
 
Thanks for a really informative post from an informed source!

pegasus
 
I recently ordered my first online frames, and, as there was plastic listed, that is what I bought. I ampretty sure it arrived in pristine condition, but by the time I was done framing the photo it had a noticeable scratch right next to the photo. Yes, it was probably my fault, but it definitely would not have happened with glass. I'm sticking with glass (but then again I'm almost 60 and plastic sticks in my craw, unless it says mastercard on it)
 
Static used to be a huge problem, but a found a polish
(www.brillianize.com) completely eliminates it.
I just discovered this product and have used it on the outside of framed pictures; works great. Wondering if anyone uses it on the in side (side facing the print) to control dust during the framing process? If so, any concerns about it interacting with the print ( in my case, made with Epson Ultrachrome inks)?
 
I've had no problems--just make sure you dry it thoroughly.

Gary Hart
http://www.eloquentimages.com


Static used to be a huge problem, but a found a polish
(www.brillianize.com) completely eliminates it.
I just discovered this product and have used it on the outside of
framed pictures; works great. Wondering if anyone uses it on the in
side (side facing the print) to control dust during the framing
process? If so, any concerns about it interacting with the print (
in my case, made with Epson Ultrachrome inks)?
 
I've just been to see the Wild-life Photographer of the year exhibition this morning - stunning pictures, all framed with Acrylic glazing and it looked excellent. I shall definitely be trying this myself now
 
Another thing to consider is that cheap glass (all "regular" glass) is green and will definatley change the color or your print. Acrylic is clear so the print shows through just like the acrylic wasn't there. Of course, there are reflections if you don't use non glare acrylic. The non-glare acrylic has a rough surface on one side. It looks OK, but museum glass is amazing, it really does disapear. However, you are talking $100 more for a reasonable size grame.

I use acrylic but don't like 1) the static. 2) It does scratch. Doesn't scratch in my house, but it sure gets scratched in the stores. I don't think they are as careful as I am :-)

Cheers
 
Anyone used PETG as an alternative to acrylic? Looking at the spec sheets, it might resist scratching more than acrylic.
 
PETG Rockwell hardness: 104 - 117
Acrylic Rockwell hardness: 101 - 102

PETG Impact strength: 16
Acrylic Impact strength: 10 - 12
 
use a mat so that the print doesn't touch the glass. I have not tried it but have heard that luster paper doesn't have this problem either. The other thing I used to do is reduce the pressure holding the print to the glass to eliminate the rings.
 

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