Just got an F11!

I believe focus was somewhere around the on/off switch.

I had the camera in the mode where it chooses a focus point by itself. I have since stopped using that mode. It's easier to do focus and recompose than to have the camera guess wrong.

Good remark about that "walk about lens"!
I have a dslr (Canon Drebel) but (certainly together with all the
lenses) it is way to heavy and large to carry it around all the
time.
Paul, so when folks ask you what is your walk about lens, you can
just say an F11.

Do you remember exactly where your focal point was on the lovely
little red train?
http://www.pbase.com/poochdp/root

--
Slowly learning to use the DRebel (only around 20.000 shots)
Public pictures at http://wwwis.win.tue.nl/~debra/photos/
 
While waiting for your info, I like to comment:
I’ll try to answer this from what I remember of the way Pentax’s
program lines acts and what I remember from my recent shots in A
mode:

In P,A and S mode, the little elves inside the camera are given two
consigns :
Perhaps 3 consignations, given the Auto ISO in these modes (pleases see below)
- Try to avoid camera shake by keeping shutter speed above 1/focal
length ;
- Maximize picture quality by avoiding the wide open position.
  • Also maximize picture quality by choosing the lowest ISO without going slower than the shutter speed that could cause camera-shake; if I may add.
For example, let’s say you use your trusty 50mm f1.4 in P mode.
If you’re in a situation where you could use 1/125s @ f1.4 or 1/60s
@ f2.0, the camera will select 1/60s @ f2.0 but if the choice is
between 1/50s @ f1.4 or 1/25s @ f2.0 it will pick 1/50s.

Now Auto ISO just gives you an other degree of freedom to try to
respect those guidelines, for as long as you can achieve faster
shutter speed while staying above f2.0 (for a f1.4 lens), it twill
keep current iso setting, as soon as one of the parameter hits its
min value, it twill bump the ISO up.
Will it also move the ISO down when there is room (with F11, you are always at F2.0 or narrower)? Say at F2.0 or narrower, and at full wide (focal length equivalent of about 35), and if the shutter speed would be 1/100s, would it slow it down to 1/50s so that a lower ISO can be used for less grainy pictures?

I know that currently F11 can't have Auto ISO at S or A priority mode. Just want to find out what Fuji could do in future models. Want to see if DSLRs are doing what I have been thinking of already.

Does your DSLR's Auto ISO do fractional ISOs between stops?
Again, this is what I remember but I didn’t check it extensively. I
will do a few tests as soon as I get home (the Pentax is small but
still too large for me to carry around… thus the F11 in my pocket!)
and post the results for info.
Thank you again.
 
Thank you very much for your reply.
Can't say I really missed an auto ISO on the canon because changing
the ISO is quicker on the canon. (no menus to go through). Also,
since I have the 17-85IS I find that I don't need to change to
higher ISO often.
So Auto ISO does NOT seem to be a common thing among ALL DSLR YET. Not yet.

Most digital camera makers may still have the traditional thinking. The concept and idea of Auto ISO was not there in the film world. In the old days, once you put the film in the SLR, and set to the corresponding ASA (ISO), that was it. Afterwards, they were mostly deailing only with 2 variables: Aperture and Shutter Speed.

Auto ISO, that the ISO can be changed from picture to picture, is a COMPLETELY NEW thing created EXCLUSIVELY in digital cameras. Here, we can work with all 3 variables.

I don't think the engineer type would have any problems. But SOME marketing TYPE (I have to be careful here with the term) may find it too complicated to deal with 3 variables instead of the good old simple 2. But I would say Auto ISO is one of the most distinctive advantages that digital cameras can have. Why not take advantage of it to the fullest the CORRECT WAY (for better photo quality and NOT marketing hype)? Consumers will find out.

So, I have to give Fuji a lot of credit for advancing Auto ISO for so far already in F10/11. I have to remember to say that more often. But that doesn't mean they can't do a lot more.
On the F11 I find that auto ISO often goes to ISO800. I understand
that this is to keep the shutter speed at 1/60s (was 1/100 on the
F10),
And as a result of keeping the shutter speed slower, F11's Auto ISO shifts more would-have-been ISO 800 pictures (under F10's Auto ISO) down to ISO 400 already. I agree with you that there may still be too many at ISO 800 under low light conditions. We have to manually pick the lower ISO 400 while keeping the shutter speed slower (but fast enough to avoid camera-shake)

Perhaps the users should have a choice to pick a second shutter speed FLOOR of 1/30s or 1/40s, in addition to current F11's 1/60s (which is already a big improvement over F10's 1/100s - I must give credit to Fuji)
but it would be nice to have an auto ISO that only does
80-400. Oh well, you can't have everything in such a small package.
That is another GREAT idea!!!

That could be done in the software! The small package shouldn't matter.

Allow users a choice to have 80 - 400 Auto ISO, in addition to the current 80 - 800 Auto ISO. Choosing 80 to 400 Auto ISO will allow users to keep more would-have-been ISO 800 shots at 400, while letting Shutter Speed go below 1/60s; just like what current F11 users can do with 80 to 800 Auto ISO to keep more would-have been ISO 1600 shots (if Natural Light mode is chosen under extreme low light condition) at ISO 800.

So we will have:

80 to 400 ISO: new Auto ISO - can keep more 800 shots at 400

80 to 800 ISO: current Auto ISO - can keep more 1600 shots at 800

80 to 1600 ISO: Natural Light Mode - shots may go to 1600 from 800 if chosen under extremely low light condition. Great to have when you absolutely needs it.

Anyway, that is your GREAT idea. And thanks again for your response.
I have a dslr (Canon Drebel) but (certainly together with all the
lenses) it is way to heavy and large to carry it around all the
time. So I got the F11 as a real walkaround camera (fits in my coat
pocket so I just carry it all the time).
Since you have a dslr and also a F11 which has a much improved Auto
ISO over the F10's, may I ask, does that Canon DSLR or another DSLR
that you know of has an AUTO ISO?

Thanks for answers in advance.
--
Slowly learning to use the DRebel (only around 20.000 shots)
Public pictures at http://wwwis.win.tue.nl/~debra/photos/
 
I should also had that that the Auto ISO feature on the Pentax Ds was only recently added through a firmware update which mean that they reprogrammed te whole thing!
 
I ordered mine from time2envy on ebay. They have a good rating, and have responded promptly to everything. Very simple transaction. UPS delivery was scheduled for tomorrow, but shows out for delivery today!

There are cheaper places, but a lot of people have had trouble with them. Have not heard anything bad on the forums about this company.

I'll post again after the F11 arrives to report on packaging and condition.

gbH
 
I should also had that that the Auto ISO feature on the Pentax Ds
was only recently added through a firmware update which mean that
they reprogrammed te whole thing!
Wow!

It looks like we are just getting into some completely new and uncharted waters.

No wonder it takes me a little bit of effort trying to explain the idea here.

Some marketing type at digital camera manufacturers may not want to deal with it yet and could be resisting. It may not be that easy for them to publicize a brand new idea. It could be easier for them to stick with some old idea or just ride with other marketing hype in existence already.

But it really seems natural to me that Auto ISO should and will get into the previously only 2 variable equation(s) and become 3 variable for digital cameras. After all, ISO in Auto ISO is a very prominent variable exclusively available to digital cameras that can maximize the digital camera's advantage if used the correct way.

And I have to give credit to Fuji for already correcting F10's Auto ISO Floor of 1/100s down to F11's 1/60s, so that the Auto ISO can be used more for the right reason, instead of being exploited for the marketing hype of "anti-blur" as in F10. Fuji is going in the right direction.

(True I.S. is not marketing hype and works beautifully)

It seems unavoidable that more should be done with Auto ISO the correct way.

Thanks again. Eagerly waiting for more info.
 
Hi Veriwide,
Again, this is what I remember but I didn’t check it extensively. I will do a few tests as soon as I get home (the Pentax is small but still too large for me to carry around… thus the F11 in my pocket!) and post the results for info.
I should also had that that the Auto ISO feature on the Pentax Ds
was only recently added through a firmware update which mean that
they reprogrammed te whole thing!
Still eagerly waiting for the results.

Many thanks in advance.

w3
 
Hi and thanks for waiting!

It seems that the Pentax is actually working as I described previously!

It tries to set speed, aperture and iso to maximize image quality:

Examples:

In a well lit room (3 bulbs):

With the 17-35 f2.8 @ 17mm, point to the center of the room:
In P mode (everything AUTO): 1/15s, f3.2 @ ISO 400;

Point to one of the light bulbs: 1/60s ,f4.5 @ ISO 200 (the min with the Pentax).

In S mode (shutter to 1/30s) :

Center of the room: f3.2 @ ISO 800;
Light bulb: f5.6 @ ISO 200;

If I use the 35mm end of the zoom, the same exposure but with a speed never less than 1/30s in P mode.

I think it’s actually a clever way to work even if it prefers to bump to ISO 800 in the room shot in S mode instead of opening to f2.8 because the level of noise at ISO 800 is really excellent on the Pentax (plus opening to f2.8 only wouldn’t be enough…)

What do you think?
 
Hi Veriwide,

Thank you for getting back to us.

Let's think out loud together here. (For just my conclusion, please go to my next post)

I don't think too many people have done this before, trying to figure out the basics of how shutter speeds, apertures AND Auto ISOs under various modes on digital cameras were or should be designed to work together. Very few digital cameras even have really usable or working Auto ISO. F10/11s are among the very few. Future F10/11 successors can or may have even better Auto ISOs. F10 doesn't have S or A mode. F11 has S and A modes but they don't work with Auto ISO.

Here, we want to see if there is something we can learn from Veriwide's Pentax DSLR that has an Auto ISO that works in P, S and A modes.
Hi and thanks for waiting!

It seems that the Pentax is actually working as I described
previously!

It tries to set speed, aperture and iso to maximize image quality:
That is exactly the correct design philosophy.

Others would say of course they knew that.

But what is new here that they may not notice is that ISO now gets into the consideration on each and every picture from picture to picture. It is only possible with digital cameras. A good Auto ISO scheme can simplify the picture taking process without sacrificing image quality.
Examples:

In a well lit room (3 bulbs):

With the 17-35 f2.8 @ 17mm, point to the center of the room:
**********************************
In P mode (everything AUTO):
(center of the room) 1/15s, f3.2 @ ISO 400;
Why would it be F3.2 and not go all the way to F2.8?

It probably wouldn't have helped to speed up the shutter speed that much (perhaps to 1/18s or so only).

The ISO probably would have to go to 400 anyway due to the dim lighting condition in the center of the room.

What it does show is the constraint of not wanting to go even higher to ISO 800 in favor of a faster shutter speed like 1/30s.

They probably figure that serious DSLR users would know how to handle 1/15s better than compact digicam users can.
Point to one of the light bulbs: 1/60s ,f4.5 @ ISO 200 (the min
with the Pentax).
So when there is more light to share (already at Pantax's lowest ISO of 200, which is 1 stop lower than ISO 400), they give some for faster shutter speed (from 1/30s to 1/60s - about 1 Stop) and some for smaller Aperture (from F3.2 to F4.5 - also about 1 EV)

Looks like your Pentax sees your light bulbs as 3 EV or 3 stop total brighter than it sees the center of the room: 1 Stop from ISOs, I Stop from Shutter Speeds and I Stop from Apertures.

***********************************************
In S mode (shutter to 1/30s) :

Center of the room: f3.2 @ ISO 800;
Again, I don't understand why it wouldn't go to F2.8. And again, it probably would have to go to ISO 800 even at F2.8.

Now I got it!

It probably had more light to spare to be at ISO 800 and to be at F2.8 (but definitely not enough light to be at ISO 400). That answers my earlier questions about the P mode too.

In order to avoid slight overexposure, the Aperture went to F3.2 (You fixed the shutter speed at 1/30s here).

Other than that, it was simply the P mode choosing 1/15s and ISO 400, while with the S mode that you picked 1/30s which is one Stop faster than P mode's 1/15s, and the Pentax's Auto ISO simply picked an ISO one Stop higher (from 400 to 800) to offset.
Light bulb: f5.6 @ ISO 200;
Compared with P mode pointing at light bulb: P mode picked 1/60s; and with S mode here you picked 1/30s. There is one Stop difference. But the S mode's F5.6 is not quite one stop narrower than P mode's F4.5 (Should also be one stop to offset). Perhaps there was an experimental error. You didn't point quite at the same spot which wasn't easy to do.

Again, when pointing at the light bulb, there was more than just enough light at ISO 200 (the lowest for Pentax already). Since it was the S mode and you picked 1/30s and that wouldn't change, the excess light only caused the Aperture to narrow.

********************************************
If I use the 35mm end of the zoom, the same exposure but with a
speed never less than 1/30s in P mode.
because your 17 - 35mm Zoom lens has a constant Widest Aperture of F2.8 across the Zoom range. (F10/11 has smaller max Apertures with more Zoom)

The faster Shutter Speed (from 1/15s to 1/30s) is to avoid the Zoom multiplication effect of camera-shake.
I think it’s actually a clever way to work even if it prefers to
bump to ISO 800 in the room shot in S mode instead of opening to
f2.8 because the level of noise at ISO 800 is really excellent on
the Pentax (plus opening to f2.8 only wouldn’t be enough…)

What do you think?
You have given me excellent examples and numbers (except I am still curious what Auto ISO at A mode with F2.8 will do, but I can almost guess now) !
 
My conclusion from veriwide's Pentax DSLR's Auto ISO observations:

1. The Pentax DSLR's Auto ISO is like what Veriwide says: "It tries to set speed, aperture and iso to maximize image quality"

2. It seems to try to stay at the lower ISO if possible and not go to higher unless necessary.

(P mode Center of the room example)

3a. It seems to balance itself with the lowest ISO, narrowest Aperture and highest shutter speed POSSIBLE under the lighting condition (seems to spread among the three when there is extra or less light);

3b. OR, Lowering ISO first, and if it is at the lowest ISO possible already, then spread any extra light if any between the narrower Aperture or higher Shutter Speed.

(P mode Light Bulb example could be the result of either one of the above two, 3a or 3b, because it was at Pentax's lowest ISO of 200 already. Don't know if it got to ISO 200 first.)

[Need more data to determine which of the above, 3a or 3b]

5. When it is between Narrower Aperture or Higher Shutter Speed, the Pentax DSLR seems to pick Narrower Aperture.

(P mode Center of the room example)

6. It makes sense to place lower ISO and narrower Aperture ahead of faster Shutter Speed. Slower shutter speeds can be remedied by trying to hold the camera more steadily, real Image Stabilization, good flash, or Tripod.

7. For the occasion to freeze action shots at low light, if possible, it can be done by manually picking higher ISO and faster shutter speed. Same as when there is a need to blur foreground or backgrounds for artistic shots, wider aperture can be selected if A mode is available (it is pretty easy for a digicam like F10/11's Auto mode: just have less light and it will be at its widest F2.8)

8. Otherwise, in general, Lower ISO (less grainy) and narrower Aperture (more depth of field) will usually yield better quality pictures, when the possible camera-shake can be avoided by other means.

9. In S mode of the Pentax DSLR, you picked the shutter speed. The Pentax went for the lowest ISO possible, but sometimes it had to be higher because it would only pick Full STOPS (like jump from 200 to 400 to 800 to 1600 and not stopping in between these numbers). At the lowest ISO STOP possible, there might still be extra light. Since you fixed the Shutter Speed, the only thing the Pentax could do was to narrow the Aperture. Otherwise, like in P mode, I would guess it could share the extra light between Aperture and Shutter Speed (3b above)

(S mode Center of the room example, also the S mode light bulb example)

10. But that begs the questions: Why couldn't Digital Cameras pick ISOs between Full Stops when using Auto ISO? Why not? Or they could with Auto ISO and I just didn't know? Like some digital cameras could when using ISO to boost flash?
 

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