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The D7 AWB problem, and how to fix it

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Graeme Falkner

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If you take photos with your D7 outdoors, with the camera set to AWB, your photos will be too blue.
This affects you!

Too much blue is hard to spot. Too much red is easy, but too much blue: much harder.

I have examined many of the photo album links posted to this forum, and found that many have this problem.

Generally you don't notice it, but if you compare your original photo, with a corrected photo side-by-side, or toggeling back and forward, the reaction is always" Wow! You're right - there IS too much blue - I couldn't see it until I saw both photos together".

If you don't use AWB, then you don't have this problem.
Cloudy White Balance and Manual White Balance are fine.
I haven't checked Sunny White Balance with my test charts, but I assume it's Ok.

Here is how to fix it.

In the Minolta Dimage Image Viewer Utility:

Use this Colour Correction Job:
http://www.windsong.co.nz/C3.icj
(the link is case sensitive)

Find the "DiMAGE Image Viewer Utility" folder on your workstation. Inside that there is a Prefs folder and inside that a folder called ImageCorrectJob. Download the file to this folder.
On my computer this is:
"Program Files\DiMAGE Image Viewer Utility\Prefs\ImageCorrectJob"

To apply the curve, first open the Original (straight out of the camera) image in the DIVU with the "Color Matching On" check box checked, and the Output Color Space set to "sRGB".

Or, open an image which you have already converted to sRGB, with the "Color Matching On" check box unchecked.

Then click on the Color Correction tab (or double-click the thumbnail). Then click the "Select a Color Correction Job" button in the lowest set of buttons, third from right. Select the job called "C3".

To toggle between the before and after images, hit the "reset all color corrections" button, then hit the "C3" thumbnail on the left hand side

In Adobe Photoshop:

Use this Colour Correction Curve
http://www.windsong.co.nz/PS_C3.acv
(the link is case sensitive)
Place the file in program in "Program Files\Adobe\Photoshop 6.0"
Open the photo in Photoshop
Hit "Tab" to hide the palettes
Hit "Ctrl + 0" to make the image full screen
Select "Image --> Adjust --> Curves"
Select the "PS_C3" curve, and hit "Load"
Select and unselect the "Preview" checkbox to compare the results.

I welcome feedback on these curves.
I know that they aren't perfect.

I have been shooting test targets, and I know that the very light shades of grey still come out blue.

I have not been able to design a colour correction Job or Curve which completly fixes this problem.

I have posted these instructions, with links to the curves on my website here:
http://www.windsong.co.nz/D7_Colour_correction.htm

Feedback Please

Graeme Falkner
 
Thanks Graeme,

I will try them on some of my old AWB shots. I long ago went to the full sun setting and have had no problems. I'll let you know the outcome.

mrm
Graeme Falkner said:
If you take photos with your D7 outdoors, with the camera set to
AWB, your photos will be too blue.
This affects you!
Too much blue is hard to spot. Too much red is easy, but too much
blue: much harder.
I have examined many of the photo album links posted to this forum,
and found that many have this problem.
Generally you don't notice it, but if you compare your original
photo, with a corrected photo side-by-side, or toggeling back and
forward, the reaction is always" Wow! You're right - there IS too
much blue - I couldn't see it until I saw both photos together".

If you don't use AWB, then you don't have this problem.
Cloudy White Balance and Manual White Balance are fine.
I haven't checked Sunny White Balance with my test charts, but I
assume it's Ok.

Here is how to fix it.

In the Minolta Dimage Image Viewer Utility:

Use this Colour Correction Job:
http://www.windsong.co.nz/C3.icj
(the link is case sensitive)
Find the "DiMAGE Image Viewer Utility" folder on your workstation.
Inside that there is a Prefs folder and inside that a folder called
ImageCorrectJob. Download the file to this folder.
On my computer this is:
"Program Files\DiMAGE Image Viewer Utility\Prefs\ImageCorrectJob"

To apply the curve, first open the Original (straight out of the
camera) image in the DIVU with the "Color Matching On" check box
checked, and the Output Color Space set to "sRGB".

Or, open an image which you have already converted to sRGB, with
the "Color Matching On" check box unchecked.

Then click on the Color Correction tab (or double-click the
thumbnail). Then click the "Select a Color Correction Job" button
in the lowest set of buttons, third from right. Select the job
called "C3".

To toggle between the before and after images, hit the "reset all
color corrections" button, then hit the "C3" thumbnail on the left
hand side

In Adobe Photoshop:

Use this Colour Correction Curve
http://www.windsong.co.nz/PS_C3.acv
(the link is case sensitive)
Place the file in program in "Program Files\Adobe\Photoshop 6.0"
Open the photo in Photoshop
Hit "Tab" to hide the palettes
Hit "Ctrl + 0" to make the image full screen
Select "Image --> Adjust --> Curves"
Select the "PS_C3" curve, and hit "Load"
Select and unselect the "Preview" checkbox to compare the results.

I welcome feedback on these curves.
I know that they aren't perfect.
I have been shooting test targets, and I know that the very light
shades of grey still come out blue.
I have not been able to design a colour correction Job or Curve
which completly fixes this problem.

I have posted these instructions, with links to the curves on my
website here:
http://www.windsong.co.nz/D7_Colour_correction.htm

Feedback Please

Graeme Falkner
Click to expand...
 
I have applied and tried out your curves in both DIVU and PhotoShop (5.5).

Good job! You're right. When I showed some before and after pics, "Wow!" was the first thing said by my coworkers. The blue-shift is most prevelant on subjects caught in shadows on bright sunny days. Makes sense though - they are reflecting off of the beautiful blue skys here in So. Calif. In some cases the curves lends too much (for my tastes) over to red/yellow, but it's a very good starting point.

Funny how people don't see this problem until you compair them side-by-side.
  • Tom
Graeme Falkner said:
If you take photos with your D7 outdoors, with the camera set to
AWB, your photos will be too blue.
This affects you!
Too much blue is hard to spot. Too much red is easy, but too much
blue: much harder.
I have examined many of the photo album links posted to this forum,
and found that many have this problem.
Generally you don't notice it, but if you compare your original
photo, with a corrected photo side-by-side, or toggeling back and
forward, the reaction is always" Wow! You're right - there IS too
much blue - I couldn't see it until I saw both photos together".
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for that RocketTom.
I agree that it's not a perfect solution.
I have been taking shots with a test card.

The test card takes up no more than 10% of the frame, so that it doesn't impact on the decision that the camera makes about what "white" really is.

(I'm asuming that the camera makes this decision when the white balance is set to Auto).

The rest of the frame is made up of my reference shot - sky, houses, trees, grass.
There are still some colours that come out wrong.
I'm working on a better solution, but this is the one I am using for now.

I'm really pleased that you found it helpfull!

Thanks

Graeme Falkner
RocketTom said:
Good job! You're right. When I showed some before and after pics,
"Wow!" was the first thing said by my coworkers. The blue-shift is
most prevelant on subjects caught in shadows on bright sunny days.
Makes sense though - they are reflecting off of the beautiful blue
skys here in So. Calif. In some cases the curves lends too much
(for my tastes) over to red/yellow, but it's a very good starting
point.

Funny how people don't see this problem until you compair them
side-by-side.
  • Tom
Graeme Falkner said:
If you take photos with your D7 outdoors, with the camera set to
AWB, your photos will be too blue.
This affects you!
Too much blue is hard to spot. Too much red is easy, but too much
blue: much harder.
I have examined many of the photo album links posted to this forum,
and found that many have this problem.
Generally you don't notice it, but if you compare your original
photo, with a corrected photo side-by-side, or toggeling back and
forward, the reaction is always" Wow! You're right - there IS too
much blue - I couldn't see it until I saw both photos together".
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
Have you any idea how to adapt the color correction job to be used on a Mac. Or in the alternative could you post the information (co-ordinates, numbers - whatever) needed to creat the job. I did download the color job from your site but simply transfering the resulting file into the Mac enviroment did no good (indeed it locked up the computer).

Bill Cook
 
Good Point.
The numbers are for the DIVU:

The RGB curve is increased slightly, I added a point at:
input 105 output 141

The Red curve is decreased slightly, with a point at
input 155 output 124

The Green curve is down slightly at
input 143 output 104

The Blue curve has lots of points:
input, output
50, 27
97, 62
149, 92
186, 127
212, 172
234, 207

Graeme Falkner
Bill Cook said:
Have you any idea how to adapt the color correction job to be used
on a Mac. Or in the alternative could you post the information
(co-ordinates, numbers - whatever) needed to creat the job. I did
download the color job from your site but simply transfering the
resulting file into the Mac enviroment did no good (indeed it
locked up the computer).

Bill Cook
Click to expand...
 
Thanks Graeme. I built the correction and it certainly works as advertised. The change is particularly noticeable in skin tones. I also built the correction in Photoshop 5.5 and it seem to work just as well there and it was much easier to build there in that PS permits you to input the values from the keyboard.

I would be very interested in seeing a similar correction for tungsten illumination. In my opinion the AWB produces images that are much to warm .

Bill Cook

PS I am sort of the unofficial official photographer for my church. If you would like to see a bit of my early output from D7 go to http://www.st-vincent-depaul.com . BC
 
Thank you for your wonderful assistance with the auto white balance problem. The instructions for Photoshop 6.0 work just fine for us out-of-daters with Photoshop 5.0.

Ralph Wheeler
Graeme Falkner said:
If you take photos with your D7 outdoors, with the camera set to
AWB, your photos will be too blue.
This affects you!
Too much blue is hard to spot. Too much red is easy, but too much
blue: much harder.
I have examined many of the photo album links posted to this forum,
and found that many have this problem.
Generally you don't notice it, but if you compare your original
photo, with a corrected photo side-by-side, or toggeling back and
forward, the reaction is always" Wow! You're right - there IS too
much blue - I couldn't see it until I saw both photos together".

If you don't use AWB, then you don't have this problem.
Cloudy White Balance and Manual White Balance are fine.
I haven't checked Sunny White Balance with my test charts, but I
assume it's Ok.

Here is how to fix it.

In the Minolta Dimage Image Viewer Utility:

Use this Colour Correction Job:
http://www.windsong.co.nz/C3.icj
(the link is case sensitive)
Find the "DiMAGE Image Viewer Utility" folder on your workstation.
Inside that there is a Prefs folder and inside that a folder called
ImageCorrectJob. Download the file to this folder.
On my computer this is:
"Program Files\DiMAGE Image Viewer Utility\Prefs\ImageCorrectJob"

To apply the curve, first open the Original (straight out of the
camera) image in the DIVU with the "Color Matching On" check box
checked, and the Output Color Space set to "sRGB".

Or, open an image which you have already converted to sRGB, with
the "Color Matching On" check box unchecked.

Then click on the Color Correction tab (or double-click the
thumbnail). Then click the "Select a Color Correction Job" button
in the lowest set of buttons, third from right. Select the job
called "C3".

To toggle between the before and after images, hit the "reset all
color corrections" button, then hit the "C3" thumbnail on the left
hand side

In Adobe Photoshop:

Use this Colour Correction Curve
http://www.windsong.co.nz/PS_C3.acv
(the link is case sensitive)
Place the file in program in "Program Files\Adobe\Photoshop 6.0"
Open the photo in Photoshop
Hit "Tab" to hide the palettes
Hit "Ctrl + 0" to make the image full screen
Select "Image --> Adjust --> Curves"
Select the "PS_C3" curve, and hit "Load"
Select and unselect the "Preview" checkbox to compare the results.

I welcome feedback on these curves.
I know that they aren't perfect.
I have been shooting test targets, and I know that the very light
shades of grey still come out blue.
I have not been able to design a colour correction Job or Curve
which completly fixes this problem.

I have posted these instructions, with links to the curves on my
website here:
http://www.windsong.co.nz/D7_Colour_correction.htm

Feedback Please

Graeme Falkner
Click to expand...
 
I agree Bill. Tungsten is too warm and flouresent is too green. I don't think automatic mode works for any color. The custom mode works good for any particular situation. Minolta told me they would have someone call me tomorrow. We will see what they say.
Bill Cook said:
Thanks Graeme. I built the correction and it certainly works as
advertised. The change is particularly noticeable in skin tones. I
also built the correction in Photoshop 5.5 and it seem to work just
as well there and it was much easier to build there in that PS
permits you to input the values from the keyboard.

I would be very interested in seeing a similar correction for
tungsten illumination. In my opinion the AWB produces images that
are much to warm .

Bill Cook

PS I am sort of the unofficial official photographer for my church.
If you would like to see a bit of my early output from D7 go to
http://www.st-vincent-depaul.com . BC
Click to expand...
 
Graeme Falkner said:
If you take photos with your D7 outdoors, with the camera set to
AWB, your photos will be too blue.
This affects you!
Too much blue is hard to spot. Too much red is easy, but too much
blue: much harder.
I have examined many of the photo album links posted to this forum,
and found that many have this problem.
Generally you don't notice it, but if you compare your original
photo, with a corrected photo side-by-side, or toggeling back and
forward, the reaction is always" Wow! You're right - there IS too
much blue - I couldn't see it until I saw both photos together".

If you don't use AWB, then you don't have this problem.
Cloudy White Balance and Manual White Balance are fine.
I haven't checked Sunny White Balance with my test charts, but I
assume it's Ok.

Here is how to fix it.

In the Minolta Dimage Image Viewer Utility:

Use this Colour Correction Job:
http://www.windsong.co.nz/C3.icj
(the link is case sensitive)
Find the "DiMAGE Image Viewer Utility" folder on your workstation.
Inside that there is a Prefs folder and inside that a folder called
ImageCorrectJob. Download the file to this folder.
On my computer this is:
"Program Files\DiMAGE Image Viewer Utility\Prefs\ImageCorrectJob"

To apply the curve, first open the Original (straight out of the
camera) image in the DIVU with the "Color Matching On" check box
checked, and the Output Color Space set to "sRGB".

Or, open an image which you have already converted to sRGB, with
the "Color Matching On" check box unchecked.

Then click on the Color Correction tab (or double-click the
thumbnail). Then click the "Select a Color Correction Job" button
in the lowest set of buttons, third from right. Select the job
called "C3".

To toggle between the before and after images, hit the "reset all
color corrections" button, then hit the "C3" thumbnail on the left
hand side

In Adobe Photoshop:

Use this Colour Correction Curve
http://www.windsong.co.nz/PS_C3.acv
(the link is case sensitive)
Place the file in program in "Program Files\Adobe\Photoshop 6.0"
Open the photo in Photoshop
Hit "Tab" to hide the palettes
Hit "Ctrl + 0" to make the image full screen
Select "Image --> Adjust --> Curves"
Select the "PS_C3" curve, and hit "Load"
Select and unselect the "Preview" checkbox to compare the results.

I welcome feedback on these curves.
I know that they aren't perfect.
I have been shooting test targets, and I know that the very light
shades of grey still come out blue.
I have not been able to design a colour correction Job or Curve
which completly fixes this problem.

I have posted these instructions, with links to the curves on my
website here:
http://www.windsong.co.nz/D7_Colour_correction.htm

Feedback Please

Graeme Falkner

Hi Graeme, I am following the "blue" discussion with a lot of interest, I do have it too!!! When I tiry to open one of the am links I only do get the following coded?? text:
Click to expand...
ÿÿdÿÿdÿÿdÿÿk

!""#$%%&'() +,--. 0012334566789::;?@ABBCDEFGGHIJKLLMNOPQRSTTUVWXYZ[\]^ 'abbcdefghijklmopqrstuvwxyz{ €?‚ƒ„…‡ˆ‰S‹ŒZ??‘’”•–—˜s›œ?Ÿ ¡¢?¥?¨©ª«-®¯±?´¶·¸º»¼¾¿ÀÂÃÄÆÇÉÊËÍÎÏÑÒÓÕÖØÙÚ܆flàáãäåçèêëìîïñòóõöøùúü‡ÿ
etc.

Can you please tell me how I do decode it in order to use it with PS. I am using a Mac system. Thanks in advance. Pad
 
The curve I presented for Photoshop was a very simple one. It simply had a single point on the blue curve at point input 137, output 120.

The idea was just to get people looking at their photos with a little less blue in them, to see what they thought.

It's quite a conservative adjustment, in order to avoid the criticism "now there's not enough blue".

I have now corrected many hundreds of my own photographs, and dozens of photos from other people, and I can tell you that there is no "silver curve" that will fix all AWB problems in Photoshop.

For photographs taken on sunny days, there usually is no need for any correction.

Bring on the clouds, and the white balance gets progressively worse as the light gets darker.

I now have a set of 5 rather complex colour correction curves that I use in Photoshop, which I created by photographing colour charts and then building correction curves to get them right. These handle over half of the cases, but many still require manual correction.

I made a huge difference to one of Darrin's photos today (ref: The D7, so what is there to complain about?), and have emailed him the result. None of my curves helped in his case, so I did it manually.

A good simple way of getting rid of the blue colour cast with Photoshop can be found here:
http://www.creativepro.com/story/feature/13811.html
(cheap trick #1 and #2)

If you're having trouble with this, then email me the photo and I will correct it for you if I can (it can be difficult to judge what the original colours were really like, as I wasn't there - this is why it is best to do it yourself if you can).

Oh and now I always shoot in Sunny or Cloudy white balance outdoors - never Auto!

Graeme Falkner
pad said:
Can you please tell me how I do decode it in order to use it with
PS. I am using a Mac system. Thanks in advance. Pad
Click to expand...
 
I have no idea.

I posted two files, C3.icj for use in the DIVU, the co-ordinates for which I posted a little further up this thread, and PS_C3.acv which is a "curves" adjustment in Photoshop (the one with the single point on the blue line).

I don't know which file you downloaded, and I don't know how the Mac translated it.

Graeme Falkner
pad said:
Graeme Falkner said:
  • never Auto!
Graeme Falkner
pad said:
Can you please tell me how I do decode it in order to use it with
PS. I am using a Mac system. Thanks in advance. Pad
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
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