5D - flash issue resolved?

Unda Covalava

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Has this thing been worked out? I only ask because I have a friend you can't catch with eyes open in any flash picture. I've finally defeated that flash reflex with a sunpak 383, non-dedicated flash, since there's no pre-flash.
 
Unda:

This subject has been beaten to death around here (polls, arguments, etc.).

Hence, my "oh no". ;-)

It happens on any camera with a preflash from time to time, with some subjects, in some conditions.

Niikon? Here's someone mentioning how Nikon made the newer D200 much better than the D70 in this area:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1021&message=16387743

Sony?

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1009&message=8115805

Canon?

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1031&message=6170137

It happens.

But, it's not a big deal. My best guess is that only about 2 or 3 out of a hundred people are going to react to it in some conditions.

If it's a big deal to you, Auto Thyristor flashes are cheap on the used market, and an adapter for the 5D hotshoe is only around $20 so it can use a flash with an ISO standard hotshoe.

Is the preflash that big of a deal for me using the built in flash. Nah. Can some people react to one? Yes, my niece seems to be sensitive to one in darker conditions. A girl I was taking photos of in a dark tavern had a problem with it, too. But, other people I took photos while there didn't have a problem with it.

I've got lots of flash photos of a lot of people that are not impacted by a preflash.

Also, let's keep things in perspective. People do blink from time to time, even without any external stimulation.

So, not every photo is going to be perfect, even if you're not using a flash (and not everyone reacts the same way to a preflash from what I've seen).

What seems to be happening in this forum regarding this issue is sad (it's been blown way out of proportion, with every blink in a photo being blamed on preflash.

It's an issue on any model that uses one in some conditions, with some subjects.

Manufacturers made design compromises with Digital. The flash systems could use some improvement (but, so could a lot of other areas). It would not be a high priority for me, if I was controlling R&D at KM.

--
JimC
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http://www.pbase.com/jcockfield
 
I already own a Sunpak 383 and would like to use it with my 5D.

What adapter did you use to get it to work with the 5D?
 
Unda:

This subject has been beaten to death around here (polls,
arguments, etc.).

Hence, my "oh no". ;-)
oops, haven't followed it :}
It happens on any camera with a preflash from time to time, with
some subjects, in some conditions.
One particular subjec, an important one, is very prone, hence the concern.
If it's a big deal to you, Auto Thyristor flashes are cheap on the
used market, and an adapter for the 5D hotshoe is only around $20
so it can use a flash with an ISO standard hotshoe.
Is the sunpak 383 one such flash? I'd need an adapter?

Problem solved if it works. Thanks.
 
I use the FS1100 with a Sunpak 422D or Metz 32Z with a Stofen and get great results. I've never had much luck with TLL systems on any make and this setup works well and is very cheap.
--
Reality leaves a lot to the imagination-John Lennon
 
Unda:

Yes, IMO, a Sunpak 383 would be a very good choice (multiple aperture ranges, trigger voltage not too high). See my post in this thread with adapters in the title.

I'd make sure not to get anything with a trigger voltage over about 8 or 9 volts (KM has never provided specs for trigger voltage with it). Here are some trigger voltages:

http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

I'm thinkng about gettting something like a Sunpak 222 (about 7 or 8 bucks used, and it has two aperture ranges) for a small short range unit, and something like a Sunpak 544 when I need more power or aperture range selections

Also, in the opinion of some people that have tested Auto Thyristor versus different DSLR flash systems with a preflash in controlled conditions, the Auto Thyristor systems have more consistent exposure anyway against E-TTL, I-TTL, etc., from Canon and other manufacturers.

That's because it's hard for a camera to guess how long a the main flash burst needs to be based on a short preflash, and the Auto Thyristor flashes measure it during the exposure, terminating the burst when their sensor sees enough total reflected light for the Aperture Range you've got it set to.

Just set both the camera and flash to match for aperture/ISO speed, and let the flash control the exposure after a bit of fine tuning to account for sensitivity differences when you first get one.

That's my plan for a flash system (and used Auto Thryistor flashes are dirt cheap).

You lose HSS (High Speed Sync) for using a flash at faster than the camera's sync speed with a cheap solution.

If you need a dedicated solution (that knows the camera's aperture and ISO speed, and also has an Auto Thyristor mode/sensor, and has High Speed Sync when not in the flash Auto Thyristor mode, look at the Metz 54MZ4.

--
JimC
------
http://www.pbase.com/jcockfield
 
Jim,

Do you know of anyone who has used this adapter?
Yes, and I just got one myself.

Nick (the vendor's name) is reputable.

The Minolta FS1100 is only a mechanical adapter with the correct pins wired together (no electronics or voltage protection built in). The only adapters Nick has left are the same way (no voltage protection built in).

But, Nick's adapters have the advantage of giving you both an ISO Standard hot shoe, and a PC Sync Port.

Jjust be careful not to use high voltage strobes, as their is no protection built in like you'd get with the Minolta PCT-100 adapter (the Minolta PCT-100 had voltage protection for older strobes up to 400 volts, but it only gives you a PC sync port and no ISO standard hot shoe).

--
JimC
------
http://www.pbase.com/jcockfield
 

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