Reading mode: Light Dark

D200 Pano...

Go to last post
You might want to consider taking some of the cyan out of the sky. (In PS CS2 Image-Adjust-Selective color-blue-then reduce the cyan value. Then do the same with Selective color-cyan and subtract cyan and add blue). Anyway, nice stitching job on a wonderful subject.
--
Steve Bingham
http://www.dustylens.com
 
Thanks for the comments Steve!

Color replacer new in CS2 I believe also does a bang up job for that stuff too)

Albert
 
Simply stunning.Reminds me of the gigapixel project.Almost makes me want to give up large format photography.Almost :)
--
Cannon Twenty Dee/Grip, L Glasss
Nikkon DeeTwohundred soon, E dee Glasss,SBee-800
Shenhao for bye five, Nikkon Schiender Glasss
 
Great work ! Thank you for sharing.

--
Thierry
 
Hi jhanzel,

Probably the sharpest lens I have... real close is the 28-70 nikkor which I also use alot. I chose this one because I can't go vertical yet for panos with the 28-70 until they make an L-bracket for the cam:)

I think you'll enjoy it!

Albert
 
Albert,

Thanks for the confirmation of my choice. It took a while to justify the price. I did get a non-VR, since it's primarily for sports, and the f stop is needed for fast shots indoors, not long exposures.

I'll add the 28-70 to my birthday wish list.

John
 
I use Gitzo 1228 carbon fiber legs with a twist lock center column
Bogen 438 leveling head on top of that

Acratech Ball head (Swiss-Arca compatible... I really like quick release) and one of the Really Right Stuff multi-purpose rails
the Precision 192 Package plate 7 1/2" rail with built in level
this rail lets me set my nodal point far all my lenses
http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/mpr/index.html

I can shoot single row panos with all my lenses this way without having to get a separate pano head

I also have one of their L-Plates for my Kodak 14Nx which actually bolts to the strap mount so there is no problem with vibration in L position. I need one for the D200 yet.

Currently I've only used the 70-200VR on the D200 for panos ( I shoot all vertical) because it has a collar on the lenses to rotate the cam to vertical.

tips I can think of:

set your nodal point for the shot (there's lots of google search how to examples here)

shoot white balance card (pick one... WhiBal, mini color checker, expodisk)into and away from light source
maximize your lens sharpness aperture (this depends on lens (11-19f)
level tripod & ballhead (camera)
shoot your camera's cleanest iso speed (faster lenses help here)
focus & lock manual focus on center of the big picture
I shoot manual mode matrix only to keep EV constant

Bracket 3 shots at least 1 ev apart (this will save you big time from blown highlights and give you an option to use HDR later.. shooting RAW is a given)
select brightest area of scene and set exposure one click below in viewfinder
I never use a polarizer

I alway use a cable release ( I use MC-30) in mirror up or mirror prerelease modes to avoid cam movement
turn on and use your viewfinder grid to line up objects from frame to frame
and lock your head tight before firing each shot

I get the biggest kick and passion out of doing these:) Software technology is amazingly rapid right now. I like PTGUI 5.6 currently.

hope this helps!

Albert
 
That was an exemplary example of a great answer... I am inspired to improve my technique...

Here is a shot I did with a small ball-head on top of a windy roof in the cold and total darkness... no flashlight and all gut instinct.

No pano head, no nodal points... I think for the lack of all this it came out okay. I need to work on it though.

I have a few more panos in my gallery. Once again a big thanks for this great post...



Cheers.
--
Manny
FCAS Member - http://manny.org/FCAS
http://www.pbase.com/gonzalu/
 
Beautiful shot Manny!
Great colors and ambiance to a spectacular cityscape!

I like your work on your site as well... nice vision you have!

Sophia was my grandmother's name:)

thanks for sharing this!

Albert
 
Thanks for the kind words on my pictures. I also like the way the pano came out. But, I can't wait to try it and get it done right with the right gear, the right calculations, the right exposures... etc. etc. I want to nail it. I have had worse versions of it. LOL

Cheers
--
Manny
FCAS Member - http://manny.org/FCAS
http://www.pbase.com/gonzalu/
 
APY_Jr said:
For taking a look and the positive comments!

For Zane... first of all thank you!
I struggled with the color on this one because of mixed lighting
(half shade half sunlight shots) color balancing the blue cast out
made the left foreground look to yellow as well as kill the detail
in the far horizon and turned the sky to the far right cyan..
(almost green)

I tried to get the movie link but the site locks on me when I try
to view it the movie.
Maybe you can explain it to me a bit or point me to another link.
Click to expand...
Well on that site I think you need to register first before they will grant you access.

Anyway, here's the gist of it.

Click on the eyedropper color sampler tool (the one with the little crosshairs) and place one on the brightest white and one on the blackest black. Then use the Levels (in RGB mode, the PS default). Then adjust the sliders in levels for each individual color channel until the numbers in the info box all match. Bingo, no more color casts.


APY_Jr said:
I looked at the pics on your site and the colors look very good
with the D2X. (great composition as well) Initially I thought some
were pushed a bit yellow.
Click to expand...
Warm toned, maybe I over did a few. Or a monitor calibration difference?
APY_Jr said:
thanks for the feedback and I'll keep working on it!

Albert
Click to expand...
--
Zane
http://www.pbase.com/devonshire

Nikon D2x & Fuji S2
 
APY_Jr said:
I just reprocessed the whole shot.
As I shot it... I took extra time to bracket 3 shots of each frame.
This time I processed the files in Nikon Capture with a gray card
white balance set for the shadows.
All shots were then converted to HDR then tonemapped in PhotoMatix
Pro.

I like the color better... details in the shadows are now brought out.

See if you like this better. I certainly do:)

Albert
Click to expand...
try this out and tell us how you go, bracket one under, n , one over and use that new 'multiple exposure' feature in the shooting menu, what i can tell on my d200 it's basically doing the HDR in hardware for you... and its loverly when you have a subject thats not moving for 1/2 second... like your landscapes.

the way i got mine setup, it fires off three quick pulses and hdr's them in one image for ya ( raw only ) and returns a really REALLY nice toned image, getting all the highs n lows in perfectly and no noise.. try it, it blows using ps HDR out of the water!.. if your really fussy you can fire off upto ten brakets and let it sort it out in hardware to combine them all in one pix, but for me, three does the trick nicely.. yet to try it on skin tones though.

Rexy
http://modelmayhem.com/member.php?id=23483
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Keyboard shortcuts

f
Forum
m
My threads
Mobile site
About
Editorial content
Cameras & Lenses
Community
All content, design, and layout are Copyright © 1998–2025 Digital Photography Review All Rights Reserved.
Reproduction in whole or part in any form or medium without specific written permission is prohibited.
When you use DPReview links to buy products, the site may earn a commission.
©GPS Media - Guides, Products, Services.
Back
Top