24-70L f2.8 or 24-105L f4 for 20D

Well, thanks to all for great advice, I am more on 24-105 now. I think the 24-70 is too bulky and heavy for a walk-around lens, am I right?
 
Well, thanks to all for great advice, I am more on 24-105 now. I
think the 24-70 is too bulky and heavy for a walk-around lens, am I
right?
That's very subjective. Some don't mind at all. But it's certainly heavier tahn the 24-105.
--
Misha
 
I was all set to trade my 24-70 for 24-105, but I've reconsidered on a couple of reasons.

For 24-70 range, the f2.8 gives better DoF control, better AF and better low-light ability.

I think the 24-70 will be sharper and although I don't know this for sure, my experience leads me to believe it must be. I think also less vignetting at f4 (FF).

I also have the 17-85 EFS and this will be sold asap and replaced by the 24-105/4 IS. So then I will have both and I will struggle to know which to take out! :( Decisions decisions!

Excal
Well, thanks to all for great advice, I am more on 24-105 now. I
think the 24-70 is too bulky and heavy for a walk-around lens, am I
right?
That's very subjective. Some don't mind at all. But it's certainly
heavier tahn the 24-105.
--
Misha
--
Excal
 
Since you have a 20D and you're looking for the ideal "Walkaround" lens, have you considered the EF-S 17-85 IS? It's also not as heavy as any of the "L" lens you're interested in. EF 24-105 IS was designed to compliment the new FF 5D. The EF-S 17-85 IS is designed to compliment the camera you have. Think about it.
--
'You see, but you do not observe' Arthur Conan Doyle

 
Since you have a 20D and you're looking for the ideal "Walkaround"
lens, have you considered the EF-S 17-85 IS? It's also not as
heavy as any of the "L" lens you're interested in. EF 24-105 IS
was designed to compliment the new FF 5D. The EF-S 17-85 IS is
designed to compliment the camera you have. Think about it.
--
'You see, but you do not observe' Arthur Conan Doyle

Hi Rends,

I am interested in L series lens only, for long term used.
 
The old buy both solution :-)

Love it!

Rob
For 24-70 range, the f2.8 gives better DoF control, better AF and
better low-light ability.

I think the 24-70 will be sharper and although I don't know this
for sure, my experience leads me to believe it must be. I think
also less vignetting at f4 (FF).

I also have the 17-85 EFS and this will be sold asap and replaced
by the 24-105/4 IS. So then I will have both and I will struggle
to know which to take out! :( Decisions decisions!

Excal
Well, thanks to all for great advice, I am more on 24-105 now. I
think the 24-70 is too bulky and heavy for a walk-around lens, am I
right?
That's very subjective. Some don't mind at all. But it's certainly
heavier tahn the 24-105.
--
Misha
--
Excal
 
I was all set to trade my 24-70 for 24-105, but I've reconsidered
on a couple of reasons.
It certainly is a decision that each person looking for an L zoom in this focal length range has to consider.
For 24-70 range, the f2.8 gives better DoF control, better AF and
better low-light ability.
You get one added stop of wide open depth of field. For some, that one stop can be crucial for selective focus. Because of the lack of image stabilization, the 24-70L isn't as good of a lens for handholding
I think the 24-70 will be sharper and although I don't know this
for sure, my experience leads me to believe it must be. I think
also less vignetting at f4 (FF).
I have used both lenses and a good copy of the 24-105L is as sharp as a good copy of the 24-70L. I have not noticed more vignetting on my 20D. The 24-105L may have a tad more distortion at 24mm. Otherwise the two lenses are pretty interchangeable image quality wise.
I also have the 17-85 EFS and this will be sold asap and replaced
by the 24-105/4 IS. So then I will have both and I will struggle
to know which to take out! :( Decisions decisions!
Be careful. They are two lenses design for different users and purposes. You may be tempted to keep them both.
Excal
Well, thanks to all for great advice, I am more on 24-105 now. I
think the 24-70 is too bulky and heavy for a walk-around lens, am I
right?
That's very subjective. Some don't mind at all. But it's certainly
heavier tahn the 24-105.
--
Misha
--
Excal
--
Vance Zachary
http://www.pbase.com/photoworkszach
http://www.photoworksbyzachary.com
 
Well then, if the weight is an issue, it's possible that it's too much lens for you.
--
'You see, but you do not observe' Arthur Conan Doyle

 
Hi I need advice from you guys. I want to have a general purpose
lens for my 20D which one should I get 24-70Lf2.8 or 24-105Lf4 ?
Both almost the same priced.
I went through the same debate a few months ago, and discussed my dilemma in http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1029&message=15070469 .

I eventually decided that there were more benefits associated with the 24-105 than simply one stop worth of light.

Specifically:

1. Longer reach (and overlap with my 70-200/4L).
2. Lighter weight.
3. Smaller size.
4. Cheaper cost.
5. Image stabilisation.

The 24-105's hood isn't obnoxiously large like the 24-70's hood, and it doesn't have that silly reverse zoom setup.

Some people find f/2.8 to be an overriding force in their choice, but I'm predominantly an outdoor scenic shooter, so f/2.8 isn't as useful to me, as I need a longer DOF.

J.
 
Can you exxplain?
When shooting landscapes, you need a longer depth of field in order to bring distant subject matter into focus. Using f/2.8 will severely narrow your depth of field.

Even with a f/4 lens, for landscape shots, you'll be stopping down.

J.
 
It is only slightly larger and heavier than the 24-105L (about half a pound heavier) and comparable in size to the 28-135 IS, if that helps. I'm not singing the praises of the 24-70 just because I have one; I just think it's sort of silly when people make it out to be a ginormous lens, especially compared to another that's only a little smaller.

Some reports of softness on the 24-105, together with extreme scarcity for this holiday season, were the main reasons I bought the 24-70. I think that the 24-105 sounds like a fine lens if it is everything it's cracked up to be here, but not everyone on fredmiranda.com seems to love it so much on first glance. I view the better focus (which of course I can't compare with the 24-105L I don't have) and the f/2.8 as bonuses. I don't think my lens is any worse now that the 24-105 is out, and it was cheaper at the time.

I mostly take people pictures, especially baby pictures. I wanted something with extremely reliable focusing. I got that in my lens. I do wind up taking a fair number of shots below f/4. If I had bought the 24-105L I am sure I would have made do just fine, though.
 
Yes, JAP is right. For landscape, your want to shoot f/5.6 - f/11 for best sharpness and max DOF. Also, f/8 is usually the sweet spot for most lenses. Because you are stopping down, camera shake becomes more of a problem and IS really helps here.

For portraits, you want the max aperture and shallow DOF to separate your model from the background. So the out-of-focus background area (bokeh) is very important, generally speaking, a f/2.8 lens can produce better bokeh than a f/4.0 lens. IS is less important here, as IS cannot freeze movement from people.
When shooting landscapes, you need a longer depth of field in order
to bring distant subject matter into focus. Using f/2.8 will
severely narrow your depth of field.

Even with a f/4 lens, for landscape shots, you'll be stopping down.

J.
 
Good point. I use f/22 for my landscape shots. This is primarily because I want everything sharp. Just like those landscape photos you see in calendars.:-)
--
'You see, but you do not observe' Arthur Conan Doyle

 
I also read the fredmiranda reviews. Believe me, I'm not about to sell or give up my EF 24-70 f/2.8L for the EF 24-105 anytime soon. The people who did sell their 24-70L now regretting what they did.
--
'You see, but you do not observe' Arthur Conan Doyle

 
Great pics, Jose. Some say 24-105 is not a good portrait lens. You just proved them dead wrong.
 
Rends,

Actually, f/22 is not as sharp as f/11, as f/22 is approaching the diffraction limit of your lens.

If you want to read more about "diffraction limit" it's here:
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm

So you want to use f/8 - f/11 but how do you obtain the max DOF? A common solution is to use hyperfocal distance. Here, you can find out more about hyperfocal distance, and how to calculate it:

http://www.dofmaster.com/hyperfocal.html

This is what I do, I print out a Hyperfocal Chart and carry it in my camera bag. After a while, you can do it without the chart.
Good point. I use f/22 for my landscape shots. This is primarily
because I want everything sharp. Just like those landscape photos
you see in calendars.:-)
--
'You see, but you do not observe' Arthur Conan Doyle

 
But.................

Of course I understand DOF, apertures for landscapes etc.

Both lenses can do f8

I would invariably use a tripod or monopod for landscapes anyway. Though in daylight it's not hard to get f8 at more than 125th so it's a non issue anyway.

Does IS really become useful for landscapes I wonder?

Rob
Actually, f/22 is not as sharp as f/11, as f/22 is approaching the
diffraction limit of your lens.

If you want to read more about "diffraction limit" it's here:
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm

So you want to use f/8 - f/11 but how do you obtain the max DOF? A
common solution is to use hyperfocal distance. Here, you can find
out more about hyperfocal distance, and how to calculate it:

http://www.dofmaster.com/hyperfocal.html

This is what I do, I print out a Hyperfocal Chart and carry it in
my camera bag. After a while, you can do it without the chart.
Good point. I use f/22 for my landscape shots. This is primarily
because I want everything sharp. Just like those landscape photos
you see in calendars.:-)
--
'You see, but you do not observe' Arthur Conan Doyle

 
If you're an outdoor shooter the 24-70 makes no sense IMHO

I'm not and there's my dilemma

Rob
Some people find f/2.8 to be an overriding force in their choice,
but I'm predominantly an outdoor scenic shooter, so f/2.8 isn't as
useful to me, as I need a longer DOF.

J.
 

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