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That's very subjective. Some don't mind at all. But it's certainly heavier tahn the 24-105.Well, thanks to all for great advice, I am more on 24-105 now. I
think the 24-70 is too bulky and heavy for a walk-around lens, am I
right?
--That's very subjective. Some don't mind at all. But it's certainlyWell, thanks to all for great advice, I am more on 24-105 now. I
think the 24-70 is too bulky and heavy for a walk-around lens, am I
right?
heavier tahn the 24-105.
--
Misha
Hi Rends,Since you have a 20D and you're looking for the ideal "Walkaround"
lens, have you considered the EF-S 17-85 IS? It's also not as
heavy as any of the "L" lens you're interested in. EF 24-105 IS
was designed to compliment the new FF 5D. The EF-S 17-85 IS is
designed to compliment the camera you have. Think about it.
--
'You see, but you do not observe' Arthur Conan Doyle
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For 24-70 range, the f2.8 gives better DoF control, better AF and
better low-light ability.
I think the 24-70 will be sharper and although I don't know this
for sure, my experience leads me to believe it must be. I think
also less vignetting at f4 (FF).
I also have the 17-85 EFS and this will be sold asap and replaced
by the 24-105/4 IS. So then I will have both and I will struggle
to know which to take out!Decisions decisions!
Excal
--That's very subjective. Some don't mind at all. But it's certainlyWell, thanks to all for great advice, I am more on 24-105 now. I
think the 24-70 is too bulky and heavy for a walk-around lens, am I
right?
heavier tahn the 24-105.
--
Misha
Excal
It certainly is a decision that each person looking for an L zoom in this focal length range has to consider.I was all set to trade my 24-70 for 24-105, but I've reconsidered
on a couple of reasons.
You get one added stop of wide open depth of field. For some, that one stop can be crucial for selective focus. Because of the lack of image stabilization, the 24-70L isn't as good of a lens for handholdingFor 24-70 range, the f2.8 gives better DoF control, better AF and
better low-light ability.
I have used both lenses and a good copy of the 24-105L is as sharp as a good copy of the 24-70L. I have not noticed more vignetting on my 20D. The 24-105L may have a tad more distortion at 24mm. Otherwise the two lenses are pretty interchangeable image quality wise.I think the 24-70 will be sharper and although I don't know this
for sure, my experience leads me to believe it must be. I think
also less vignetting at f4 (FF).
Be careful. They are two lenses design for different users and purposes. You may be tempted to keep them both.I also have the 17-85 EFS and this will be sold asap and replaced
by the 24-105/4 IS. So then I will have both and I will struggle
to know which to take out!Decisions decisions!
--Excal
--That's very subjective. Some don't mind at all. But it's certainlyWell, thanks to all for great advice, I am more on 24-105 now. I
think the 24-70 is too bulky and heavy for a walk-around lens, am I
right?
heavier tahn the 24-105.
--
Misha
Excal
I would say you are right!Well, thanks to all for great advice, I am more on 24-105 now. I
think the 24-70 is too bulky and heavy for a walk-around lens, am I
right?
I went through the same debate a few months ago, and discussed my dilemma in http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1029&message=15070469 .Hi I need advice from you guys. I want to have a general purpose
lens for my 20D which one should I get 24-70Lf2.8 or 24-105Lf4 ?
Both almost the same priced.
When shooting landscapes, you need a longer depth of field in order to bring distant subject matter into focus. Using f/2.8 will severely narrow your depth of field.Can you exxplain?
When shooting landscapes, you need a longer depth of field in order
to bring distant subject matter into focus. Using f/2.8 will
severely narrow your depth of field.
Even with a f/4 lens, for landscape shots, you'll be stopping down.
J.
Actually, f/22 is not as sharp as f/11, as f/22 is approaching the
diffraction limit of your lens.
If you want to read more about "diffraction limit" it's here:
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm
So you want to use f/8 - f/11 but how do you obtain the max DOF? A
common solution is to use hyperfocal distance. Here, you can find
out more about hyperfocal distance, and how to calculate it:
http://www.dofmaster.com/hyperfocal.html
This is what I do, I print out a Hyperfocal Chart and carry it in
my camera bag. After a while, you can do it without the chart.
Some people find f/2.8 to be an overriding force in their choice,
but I'm predominantly an outdoor scenic shooter, so f/2.8 isn't as
useful to me, as I need a longer DOF.
J.