Your assumption is wrong.It's gonna be slow focusing for those that need it to be lighting
fast.
What do you base this view on ???
--
Take care,
Jorgen
Probere necesse est.....
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Your assumption is wrong.It's gonna be slow focusing for those that need it to be lighting
fast.
Considering that this camera will likely not be replaced for
another 3-4 years, I'm not sure it is enough and price wise it
needs to compete with the 20D not the 5D. My only caviat for this
statement is if the D200 turns out to have excellent ground
breaking high ISO performance (I'd be happy with a good noise free
6mp DSLR for my weddings)
I am a Nikon user and have a D70 and S3 pro kit. Being honest when
looking at the D200 other than shooting speed and iTTL I am
confident my S3 will deliver as much res and most likely more
pleasing images to the eye than the D200 and that is without
considering dynamic range. I also shoot landscapes for stock and
have been waiting for a digicam that is competive resolution wise
without weighing and costing as much as a house (D2x 1DS mkII) at
£570 the Sony R1 looks a credible alternative to the D200 (for this
type of photography only I am not advocating a digicam over a DSLR)
but as I have said on another thread my S3 is probably still better
than both of them.
8mp to 10mp is not a massive jump 8mp to 12mp is and at £1300 the
D200 looks expensive to me. The D100 was a competitor of the D60
and 10D, the D200 is a really in the same class as the 20D (and 30D
when it appears) I also predict that we will see a Canon 30D, 40D
and maybe even a 50D before we see a D300. This is not a Nikon vs
Canon thing but just something to consider for the enthusiast or
semi pro who wear out or replace bodies on a regular basis.
Don't get me wrong I may still buy one but I also may buy another
S3 instead. It's going to be an interesting few months.
I suppose. But the 5D is US$1600 more expensive out of the gate. That's a lot of price to drop. I'd assume that Nikon's got the ability to get the D200 down to US$1299 easily, but prefers not to do that. (Guys, there's a interesting connundrum we're dealing with here--If Canon and Nikon price too low and they aren't insanely profitable and thus don't benefit one iota from market leadership positions; if they price at a reasonable level everyone complains and wants price drops. I think Canon with the 5D and Nikon with the D200 are both showing that they'll be ahead of the price curve at the expense of profit in order to retain market share. Don't expect them to drop their pants, too...)While the price of the D200 can drop so can the price of the 5D or
the 20D replacement.
A grip is optional. Quite frankly, I hear more complaints about the size of the integrated grip bodies (both Canon and Nikon) than I do about lack of built-in grips. Try fitting a D2x or 1DsII into some of the fanny, chest, and even small backpacks.I agree with your position that this is more
D2X than D70; although I'm bummed about the lack of a built in
grip.
Um, is it me or your English here? Pricing the D200 above the 20D negates the ease of switching from Nikon to Canon? I think you mean "doesn't negate the 20D's price advantage for those contemplating switching." Well, I'll have my 20D review posted about the time I post my D200 review (;Pricing it above the 20D to
me negates the ease for canon switchers.
I'm not sure where you're getting the "integrated wireless" from. The D200 requires the optional WT-3 to do WiFi. This IS one area where the vertical grip question comes up: you can have the WT-3 or the MB-D200 mounted, but not both.I've said this before but the strangest feature is the integrated
wireless. Does it really appeal to prosumers and how can they
justify the inclusion when you have the wireless adapters for the
D2x selling for 600.00.
Not simply. The S2 Pro, for example, does what I call a double Hue shift, with both Reds and Greens skewing towards Yellow. The Nikon bodies only allow a single Hue shift, so if you rotate Reds towards Yellow, the Greens go towards Cyan. Green, BTW, is a "cue" color for and in skin tones. Thus shifting it towards Cyan is usually a bad thing.I was wondering if
you knew of a way to get those kind of results on a camera like the
D50, D70, or this D200.
Well, you could do the same thing I did with Velvia: analyze it's color response and then build a Photoshop Action that tries to mimic the "drift from accurate." Then set your camera to dead-on accurate and apply the Action to everything. That two-way Hue shift will be a little difficult to achieve, but it's possible.Is there any way to get that Fujifilm look without using a Fujifilm
camera? I wish there was a plug-in I could use in Nikon Capture or
Capture 1 that could emulate Fujifilm's color processing.
Correct, it takes SD cards.Good points Thom. I have heard good things about the D50 maybe
worth a look, would need to buy some new memory though as I believe
it does not take CF cards?
For true landscape stock to compete, especially when you're a bit deficit on pixels (;The lack of MLU on the S3 is probably the only reason I feel the
need for another camera for my stock although opinion seems divided
as to whether mirror slap is an issue on the S3 (my images look
pretty good but then I have no comparison).
Yeah. After I wrote that I realized that it doesn't have a mirror. But the worry then is that you're using the sensor for preview and automation so you wonder how it's going to do in those pre-dawn situations where you might need a two second exposure. First, can we really get good viewfinder feedback in dim light? Second, will leaving the sensor active that long cause noise we don't see in the DSLRs?I would say however that the Sony R1 does not need MLU as it does
not have a mirror!
Mea culpa. But see my other response about this. What you gain in one hand you may lose in the other..."Not needed". The Sony R1 has no mirror to lockup.
Certainly a very reasonable possibility. Sometimes I lust after some of the MF stuff that's out there. Certainly tilt-shift and more megapixels. But some of us put ourselves in places where MF is just too large to work with or too heavy to carry. That's one way we get those unique angles and pictures, actually.Two more words.For doing high-quality landscape stock I'll say two words: mirror
lockup. Neither the Sony nor the Fujifilm have it.
Medium format.
Landscape photographers got along with f/4.5 previews (and worse) on ground glass for years. So I suspect it will do OK considering that it should have some image pre-amplification. It should do better than existing small sensor fixed lens digitals. Heck, this could turn out to be an overall benefit. Only time will tell.Yeah. After I wrote that I realized that it doesn't have a mirror.
But the worry then is that you're using the sensor for preview and
automation so you wonder how it's going to do in those pre-dawn
situations where you might need a two second exposure. First, can
we really get good viewfinder feedback in dim light?
My understanding is that the sensor generates very little heat. The primary source of heat is the other electronics. Hopefully, the heat generating bits are placed away from the sensor. But there is really no particular reason for this to be much concern. I don't see any difference between cool mornings and 100 degree days in the Arizona desert with my fixed lens digitals that have their sensors on almost constantly for hours.Second, will
leaving the sensor active that long cause noise we don't see in the
DSLRs?
Btw: D2X vs. S2Pro:
http://www.utopia-photography.ch/cameras/colors.html
Kind regards,
Martin
--
http://www.datzinger.net
Ah, that's interesting. I tried adjusting the hue setting on my D50, but it didn't seem to help much. Does the S3 and all the rest of Fuji's cameras do this?The S2 Pro, for example, does what I call a double Hue
shift, with both Reds and Greens skewing towards Yellow. The Nikon
bodies only allow a single Hue shift, so if you rotate Reds towards
Yellow, the Greens go towards Cyan. Green, BTW, is a "cue" color
for and in skin tones. Thus shifting it towards Cyan is usually a
bad thing.
What is this Velvia that you mention?Well, you could do the same thing I did with Velvia: analyze it'sIs there any way to get that Fujifilm look without using a Fujifilm
camera? I wish there was a plug-in I could use in Nikon Capture or
Capture 1 that could emulate Fujifilm's color processing.
color response and then build a Photoshop Action that tries to
mimic the "drift from accurate." Then set your camera to dead-on
accurate and apply the Action to everything. That two-way Hue shift
will be a little difficult to achieve, but it's possible.
This back and forth crystal ball predictions about what Canon will
come out with is a waste of time. Who cares !!!
If you are a Nikon shooter then I only care about what Nikon has to
offer me and the SYSTEM I have invested in. Everyone whined about
how long it has taken Nikon to come up with a replacement for the
D100. Now they announce yet another home run product and the trolls
come out of the woodwork to predict what Canon will do.
So if you want to go on and on about Canon then please go to that
forum and enjoy yourself. I for one could careless and I think a
lot of others here feel the same.
Lee
--
History judges great Photographers by their technique not their
technology.