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EB: What is the difference between Auto and TTL Auto
- Thread starter SteveDP
- Start date
Michael Meissner
Forum Pro
The simplest way to see if your camera does a preflash is to set the camera into manual mode, select a long shutter speed (several seconds), and turn the flash mode to slow sync2 (rear curtain). When you press the shutter, you should see the pre-flash, then it is dark while the shutter is open, and then the final flash at the end of the shutter cycle.
Michael Meissner
Forum Pro
No, red-eye prevention is completely different. The preflash is used to set the white balance, and judge how much power will be needed for the main flash.
Makes sense that AF would be better with FL-36. I just found a tecnical analysis of the AF assist on Fl-36. Here it is:
The FL-36 has a red focus-assist light. It projects not just a beam or red light, like the '5060, but three circular beams, each with a striped pattern, so that a camera supporting this feature will focus properly even on a white wall. These circles roughly correspond to locations of AF sensors in the E-300 (at least when the zoom is near the wide-angle range); the central one has vertical stripes, the side ones — horizontal. (Makes sense: in the E-300 the side sensors are sensitive to horizontal lines only; the central one is cross-pattern.)
I found that the E-300 AF system works significantly better (faster, more reliable) when using this feature than when using the built-in flash as AF illuminator. While writing this article I took a series of E-300 full-aperture pictures of my toilet bowl in a completely dark bathroom (let me spare you the samples), and all ended up being in good focus. With the built-in flash providing the AF illumination, the system sometimes had to repeat the process two or three times.
This may be one more reason to use the FL-36 with you E-300 instead of a third-party alternative.
The FL-36 has a red focus-assist light. It projects not just a beam or red light, like the '5060, but three circular beams, each with a striped pattern, so that a camera supporting this feature will focus properly even on a white wall. These circles roughly correspond to locations of AF sensors in the E-300 (at least when the zoom is near the wide-angle range); the central one has vertical stripes, the side ones — horizontal. (Makes sense: in the E-300 the side sensors are sensitive to horizontal lines only; the central one is cross-pattern.)
I found that the E-300 AF system works significantly better (faster, more reliable) when using this feature than when using the built-in flash as AF illuminator. While writing this article I took a series of E-300 full-aperture pictures of my toilet bowl in a completely dark bathroom (let me spare you the samples), and all ended up being in good focus. With the built-in flash providing the AF illumination, the system sometimes had to repeat the process two or three times.
This may be one more reason to use the FL-36 with you E-300 instead of a third-party alternative.
Larry O
Senior Member
I'm sorry. EB, you have the patience of a God.
This thread takes the cake. Come on people, these are digital camera's. Don't be so d@m lazy. Go and do some test shots and come back with the answers. Did you purchase you gear from a camera shop? If so, ask them to demonstrate these features. Did you buy it on line.....well in that case your on your own.
I'm sorry and I don't mean to sound like I'm giving anyone heck, but this forum is really going downhill with all these questions. The answers are in the manual or can be answered by trial and error. Yes, I have asked questions and Yes, I have answered questions. I beleive we should do what we can to help fellow photographers, but THIS is ridiculous. Come on guys.....read your manuals. We got 2 different guys firing two different sets of questions. Guys, your questions are not stupid.....don't get me wrong, but do a little reading and do some testing..you'll find the answer and feel good about it.
Cheers
Larry O
http://www.pbase.com/losiowy
E10, Tcon 14B. Mcon35, FL36
E1, 50-200
This thread takes the cake. Come on people, these are digital camera's. Don't be so d@m lazy. Go and do some test shots and come back with the answers. Did you purchase you gear from a camera shop? If so, ask them to demonstrate these features. Did you buy it on line.....well in that case your on your own.
I'm sorry and I don't mean to sound like I'm giving anyone heck, but this forum is really going downhill with all these questions. The answers are in the manual or can be answered by trial and error. Yes, I have asked questions and Yes, I have answered questions. I beleive we should do what we can to help fellow photographers, but THIS is ridiculous. Come on guys.....read your manuals. We got 2 different guys firing two different sets of questions. Guys, your questions are not stupid.....don't get me wrong, but do a little reading and do some testing..you'll find the answer and feel good about it.
Cheers
Larry O
http://www.pbase.com/losiowy
E10, Tcon 14B. Mcon35, FL36
E1, 50-200
Mr. EB published an operating guideline for Fl-36/50. I have read the manual and done extensive testings. My results are somehow a little different from what the guideline recommends. I just want to make sure I don't have a defective flash as others do.
Ever heard of the word "ignore" if you don't want to read the thread.
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Olympus E-300 (firmware 1.3), 14-54mm & 40-150mm, HLD-3, FL-36, Hoya Super HMC UVs, Manfrotto 676B Monopod, Sandisk Ultra II 1.0 & 2.0 GB CF Cards, Tamrac System 6 Bag
Ever heard of the word "ignore" if you don't want to read the thread.
--
Olympus E-300 (firmware 1.3), 14-54mm & 40-150mm, HLD-3, FL-36, Hoya Super HMC UVs, Manfrotto 676B Monopod, Sandisk Ultra II 1.0 & 2.0 GB CF Cards, Tamrac System 6 Bag
Larry O
Senior Member
I have EB's settings printed out and IN my camera bag. I went out and deliberatly changed some settings and PRINTED out the results so I could really compare them side by side. I then made my conclusions and made notes. Have you ever seen a photographer that had a pen and paper in their bag........they all do. It's simple to do, so what don't I get????
Larry O
http://www.pbase.com/losiowy
E10, Tcon 14B. Mcon35, FL36
E1, 50-200
Larry O
http://www.pbase.com/losiowy
E10, Tcon 14B. Mcon35, FL36
E1, 50-200
Good point. I had the UV filter on. The metering is set at ESP mode. More tesings. Thank you EB.
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Olympus E-300 (firmware 1.3), 14-54mm & 40-150mm, HLD-3, FL-36, Hoya Super HMC UVs, Manfrotto 676B Monopod, Sandisk Ultra II 1.0 & 2.0 GB CF Cards, Tamrac System 6 Bag
--
Olympus E-300 (firmware 1.3), 14-54mm & 40-150mm, HLD-3, FL-36, Hoya Super HMC UVs, Manfrotto 676B Monopod, Sandisk Ultra II 1.0 & 2.0 GB CF Cards, Tamrac System 6 Bag
Larry O
Senior Member
As much as I like to think that I (the mighty photographer) can set the camera better than the camrea itself can......yes I started with your exact settings (even added the recent update to auto flash from fill flash on your outdoor settings). I do use the UV filter, but I'm not havin problems.
Oh, were you talking to me????
HAHA
Cheers EB.
Larry O
http://www.pbase.com/losiowy
E10, Tcon 14B. Mcon35, FL36
E1, 50-200
Oh, were you talking to me????
HAHA
Cheers EB.
Larry O
http://www.pbase.com/losiowy
E10, Tcon 14B. Mcon35, FL36
E1, 50-200
Larry O
Senior Member
many forum members learned something from a thread like this one. At least this is not like one of those "nice shot - thank you - terrific picture - thank you ....... and on and on" threads. Thank everyone's time and patience.
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Olympus E-300 (firmware 1.3), 14-54mm & 40-150mm, HLD-3, FL-36, Hoya Super HMC UVs, Manfrotto 676B Monopod, Sandisk Ultra II 1.0 & 2.0 GB CF Cards, Tamrac System 6 Bag
--
Olympus E-300 (firmware 1.3), 14-54mm & 40-150mm, HLD-3, FL-36, Hoya Super HMC UVs, Manfrotto 676B Monopod, Sandisk Ultra II 1.0 & 2.0 GB CF Cards, Tamrac System 6 Bag
your system's results have me stumped. I know that some filters do affect the camera rather dramatically, which is why I don't normally use filters on any of my lenses.
It's obviously of no comfort to you, but my flash/camera setup gives extremely good and highly repeatable results using the setup I suggested. Hope you can find out what's causing yours to be selectively disappointing.
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Good Shooting,
English Bob
It's obviously of no comfort to you, but my flash/camera setup gives extremely good and highly repeatable results using the setup I suggested. Hope you can find out what's causing yours to be selectively disappointing.
--
Good Shooting,
English Bob
for those that like the science behind these nice gadgets. 
Makes sense that AF would be better with FL-36 than camera by itself. I just found a tecnical analysis of the AF assist on Fl-36. E-300 is mentioned but i would assume E-500/E-1 just the same. Here it is:
The FL-36 has a red focus-assist light. It projects not just a beam or red light, like the '5060, but three circular beams, each with a striped pattern, so that a camera supporting this feature will focus properly even on a white wall. These circles roughly correspond to locations of AF sensors in the E-300 (at least when the zoom is near the wide-angle range); the central one has vertical stripes, the side ones — horizontal. (Makes sense: in the E-300 the side sensors are sensitive to horizontal lines only; the central one is cross-pattern.)
I found that the E-300 AF system works significantly better (faster, more reliable) when using this feature than when using the built-in flash as AF illuminator. While writing this article I took a series of E-300 full-aperture pictures of my toilet bowl in a completely dark bathroom (let me spare you the samples), and all ended up being in good focus. With the built-in flash providing the AF illumination, the system sometimes had to repeat the process two or three times.
This may be one more reason to use the FL-36 with you E-300 instead of a third-party alternative.
Makes sense that AF would be better with FL-36 than camera by itself. I just found a tecnical analysis of the AF assist on Fl-36. E-300 is mentioned but i would assume E-500/E-1 just the same. Here it is:
The FL-36 has a red focus-assist light. It projects not just a beam or red light, like the '5060, but three circular beams, each with a striped pattern, so that a camera supporting this feature will focus properly even on a white wall. These circles roughly correspond to locations of AF sensors in the E-300 (at least when the zoom is near the wide-angle range); the central one has vertical stripes, the side ones — horizontal. (Makes sense: in the E-300 the side sensors are sensitive to horizontal lines only; the central one is cross-pattern.)
I found that the E-300 AF system works significantly better (faster, more reliable) when using this feature than when using the built-in flash as AF illuminator. While writing this article I took a series of E-300 full-aperture pictures of my toilet bowl in a completely dark bathroom (let me spare you the samples), and all ended up being in good focus. With the built-in flash providing the AF illumination, the system sometimes had to repeat the process two or three times.
This may be one more reason to use the FL-36 with you E-300 instead of a third-party alternative.
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