Potential Rebel XT buyer: WB question

I'm considering the purchase of a Rebel XT - but I have a question about the WB setting. I currently have a Oly C2100, so I'll base my question on its WB setting. I can change the WB setting and see the immediate result in the EVF or LCD allowing me to make a decision. Can the XT do the same?

I'm apprehensive in the decision to buy for a few reasons:

1. Is the camera way too much for what I know? With my C2100 I use it in P (or auto mode) most of the time. A few times I've used the aperature priority or shutter priority settings.

2. Will the XT and lens be so much bigger and heavier that I'll be more reluctant to take it along places?

I tried it out today at Ritz and really like the fast focus. What I currently do with my C2100 is hold the shutter half-way, then wait for the action to happen (taking pics of my kids in their sporting events). I also compared it to the D50 they had there, but it was much heavier, and a bit larger, and I didn't feel I had a solid grip/hold on it (but it sure has sharp images - as seen on http://www.steves-digicams.com )

--
Mike
C21OO TCON-17
http://www.pbase.com/mike_weber

1. No. All SLR type cameras will require you to take a photo and review it to see the WB setting effect. Tungsten WB is not a strong suite of the camera so setting manual WB or shooting Raw is suggested when in strange lighting.

2. While small for an SLR, even the XT is large compared to amateur point and shoots. If this is a concern, handle it at the dealer more before you buy. The XT is the smallest SLR so it is the best choice if you want to move up.
--
Doug Smith
http://www.pbase.com/dougsmit

Mike Weber said:

I'm considering the purchase of a Rebel XT - but I have a question
about the WB setting. I currently have a Oly C2100, so I'll base
my question on its WB setting. I can change the WB setting and see
the immediate result in the EVF or LCD allowing me to make a
decision. Can the XT do the same?

Click to expand...

no, there is no EVF or live LCD preview on the XT so you cannot do this.

Mike Weber said:

I'm apprehensive in the decision to buy for a few reasons:
1. Is the camera way too much for what I know? With my C2100 I use
it in P (or auto mode) most of the time. A few times I've used the
aperature priority or shutter priority settings.

Click to expand...

You will learn once you get the camera. It's easy, and fun learning. Aperture priority to isolate things, shutter to freeze motion or do other cool effects.

Mike Weber said:

2. Will the XT and lens be so much bigger and heavier that I'll be
more reluctant to take it along places?

Click to expand...

That's your choice... it's not that heavy, go to your store and decide. I take mine along with a couple of pounds of lenses... the results are more than worth it.

Mike Weber said:

I tried it out today at Ritz and really like the fast focus. What
I currently do with my C2100 is hold the shutter half-way, then
wait for the action to happen (taking pics of my kids in their
sporting events). I also compared it to the D50 they had there,
but it was much heavier, and a bit larger, and I didn't feel I had
a solid grip/hold on it (but it sure has sharp images - as seen on
http://www.steves-digicams.com )

Click to expand...

the camera is fast focusing and takes great action pics...

also, if you shoot in RAW, you can set the white balance at home on your computer if you're worried about that. i can take about 10 pics at 3fps in RAW before the cam slows down to store the pics.

Mike Weber said:

I'm considering the purchase of a Rebel XT - but I have a question
about the WB setting. I currently have a Oly C2100, so I'll base
my question on its WB setting. I can change the WB setting and see
the immediate result in the EVF or LCD allowing me to make a
decision. Can the XT do the same?

Click to expand...

The XT has a TTL viewfinder, i.e through the lens. It isn't an electronic one - what you see is optical, the light refelcted through the lens into the viewfinder using a mirror system. So you can't see a "live" preview of white balance. The XT, being a DSLR, doesn't use the LCD for a live preview either - the LCD ca only be used to review images.

Mike Weber said:

I'm apprehensive in the decision to buy for a few reasons:
1. Is the camera way too much for what I know? With my C2100 I use
it in P (or auto mode) most of the time. A few times I've used the
aperature priority or shutter priority settings.
2. Will the XT and lens be so much bigger and heavier that I'll be
more reluctant to take it along places?

Click to expand...

If you find yo love the XT then it won't be too big. If you're so-so about it, you might well miss the better portability of the Olympus. Only you can really tell this.

Mike Weber said:

I tried it out today at Ritz and really like the fast focus. What
I currently do with my C2100 is hold the shutter half-way, then
wait for the action to happen (taking pics of my kids in their
sporting events). I also compared it to the D50 they had there,
but it was much heavier, and a bit larger, and I didn't feel I had
a solid grip/hold on it (but it sure has sharp images - as seen on
http://www.steves-digicams.com )

Click to expand...

If you want to use the camera for kids and their sporting events, then th XT - with practice and a decent zoom (it doesn't have to be too expensive either) - will give you much better results than your current camera. It's got an AI servo focusing moe which is designed to keep focus on a moving subject, it's got a fast burst mode and the TTL viewfinder means yo can keep you eye on the subject, unlike point-and-shoot digicams where the LCD blacks out in burst mode. It's effeicent buffer means you can take a lot of shots in a short space of time.

Here's some of mine at soccer matches (note there's some shots in there taken with an expensive Nikon D2X so check the EXIF data for each pic to see which are the XT shots.

http://www.pbase.com/brunonz/soccer

Thanks much for the replies.

Looks like I can do quick picture tests and view them on the LCD for the correct WB selection.

I did a check on the dimensions of the XT (no lens) and my C2100, and they are very close in size. As for weight they are the same and I carry the TCON-17 with the C2100, so I'm almost there as it is and no complaints.

--
Mike
C21OO TCON-17
http://www.pbase.com/mike_weber

I've got smallish bag, fits my 350D, 55-200mm, 50mm and 18-55mm, with room in the pockets for wallet, sunglasses, car keys etc. Sling it over my shoulder and off I go. Take it pretty much with me all the time now and never find it a burden.

No one seems to have mentioned this yet so I thought I'd chime in. Please don't take it as discouraging. I'm just trying to be realistic about what your expectations are. A lot of people who have switched from p&s complain about the results they get when they first switch to dslr. I would say you may want to factor the following into your decision. Operating an slr and getting good results REQUIRES that you learn at least basic photography. This will mean reading a book or several and/or taking a class. I'm not saying you HAVE to do this, but you will NEED to learn these basics to get good results. The way you learn it will of course be up to you. The books/class may just cut down on your frustration rather than learning strictly by trial and error. Also, don't underestimate the post processing part of it. You will likely have to do something, even the most minimal amount of processing to get something you're happy with. I'm not implying that you will have to spend hours of time at your computer to get something you like, just that if you're used to downloading photos directly from your camera and printing them out or e-mailing them off without any other work that likely won't be the case with an slr. They'll be something you'll need to do.

If you really want to learn photography and get better at it, then the xt is definitely the next step up. But if you're trying to improve your equipment but continue only with the skills you currently use you're likely to be frustrated and disappointed with the results. Also, this is a very expensive hobby and it's addictive! Your first lens will likely not cover the range you currently get from your p&S.

Just some food for thought. Again, I'm not trying to discourage you. I'm just trying to give you the realities of it. I switched recently from film slr. Eventhough I do know the basics of photography, it is still a learning experience and all my skills are NOT a direct translation. There's a learning curve no matter what and not just for the equipment.

I hope this helps.

Best of luck.

Jen

I went from the C2100 to the XT. At first I was disappointed with the results. There is a learning curve and to get the most from your XT you have to be willing to do post processing. After having the XT for several months, I could never go back to the C2100 (although I did keep it as a backup). It's a great camera if you are willing to put in the time and effort it takes to make it work.

As to weight, that's up to you. I bought a few lenses after getting my camera and I like to haul them all around with me , so it gets pretty cumbersome.

You'll get people who will chime in about getting the right custom WB and exposure everytime and saving post-processing and memory card space and they'll tell you just to shoot JPG.

That's great, but in the real world AWB isn't always right and light conditions change... just shoot RAW, have plenty of CF cards, and in post-processing you can get your WB and exposure exactly right.

Also, shooting sports, try shooting in Av mode... try to keep the lens around f/4-f/5.6 max so that the background blurs. That of course depends on how good of a lens you have.

I'd suggest an XT, skip the kit lens, get the Sigma 18-50 f/2.8 and the Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 lenses. With a 1.4x teleconverter, that 70-200 is great for sports unlike a lot of the sharper value lenses since you have to shoot those at f/8 to get sharp results.

Mike Weber said:

I'm considering the purchase of a Rebel XT - but I have a question
about the WB setting. I currently have a Oly C2100, so I'll base
my question on its WB setting. I can change the WB setting and see
the immediate result in the EVF or LCD allowing me to make a
decision. Can the XT do the same?

I'm apprehensive in the decision to buy for a few reasons:
1. Is the camera way too much for what I know? With my C2100 I use
it in P (or auto mode) most of the time. A few times I've used the
aperature priority or shutter priority settings.
2. Will the XT and lens be so much bigger and heavier that I'll be
more reluctant to take it along places?

I tried it out today at Ritz and really like the fast focus. What
I currently do with my C2100 is hold the shutter half-way, then
wait for the action to happen (taking pics of my kids in their
sporting events). I also compared it to the D50 they had there,
but it was much heavier, and a bit larger, and I didn't feel I had
a solid grip/hold on it (but it sure has sharp images - as seen on
http://www.steves-digicams.com )

--
Mike
C21OO TCON-17
http://www.pbase.com/mike_weber

Click to expand...

What I find discouraging is the number of people who do post processing in order to get good results. This is something I don't want to do since I sometimes go for a few days before I get the chance to download the pictures from the camera to the computer. There have been a few times that I did something in PS because I didn't take the time to take the photo properly in the first place. But it sounds as if every photo with a dSLR will need post processing - this is not good for me.

Thank you for your replies.

--
Mike
C21OO TCON-17
http://www.pbase.com/mike_weber

I had the Oly 2100 once, I loved that camera, in fact i still do. the shutter lag finaly drove me crazy. The 350 is a very nice camera, it far exceed what the 2100 can do in just about every aspect, but I do have to agree with jmophoto about the committment you need to have to achieve good result.

I think you have to ask yourself whether you would like to spend some time in learning photography, not only just the camera, but the whole process, and make it a hobby, if so the 350 is a great tool to do that. If you truely only want to get somewhat better photographs but have no real interest in the process itself, you might want to get an upgrade of the 2100, the Oly 8800 is a great digicam for that purpose, or the Panasonic FZ series are fantastic, they are small and light, with super zoom and much faster shutter respond than the 2100, and best of all, you can get by with no post processing. I think many people that love SLR love the process of photography itself, it isn't work for us to do post processing, it is "fun" (most of the time anyway). I hope I didn't confuse you further, if so, my appology.

Siuyee

Sorry, it is the Oly 8080, not 8800

Siuyee

No, no confusion. Just haven't made a final decision yet - thanks for your response.

Maybe I'll just send in my C2100 for repair and be done with it.
--
Mike
C21OO TCON-17
http://www.pbase.com/mike_weber

What is wrong with the C2100? Mine was corrupting photos and screwing up the chips after 3 years of use, even though it still work but no longer relyable. and it cost far too much to repair, it was essentially "totaled", I miss losing it, but it was under pixeled for what my need anyway, so I moved on.

Siuyee

Siuyee,

If I could, I'd e-mail you directly as we are heading off topic.

The C2100 has recently started to lock-up. This could be any one of the following:

1. Stops auto-focus - half-shutter does nothing.
2. Can't turn it off - need to remove batteries
3. The EVF/LCD will produce static vertical lines
4. All the above will happen.

Seems to be temperature related. It won't happen at first use of the day, but will have trouble within 15 minutes of use.

--
Mike
C21OO TCON-17
http://www.pbase.com/mike_weber

Sorry Mike,

I do think you need a new camera!

Siuyee

IMO the D50 will be sharper out of the box until you get a good XT lens and NOT THE KIT LENS. You had better take home several test shots from both cams with a good XT lens and compare sharpness and WB. This part annoying perhaps, but who else cares to make the right decision?
Above all. Do not be afraid to buy a lens and return it soon after testing.

If standard WBs are not good enough you must take a reference shot to set for custom WB or use WB shift / bracketing screen to adjust.
Move the WB point in an 8 point box to do 8 WB test shots.
Scroll down to see WB screen display:
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canoneos350d/page3.asp

Or shoot RAW and set WB later.

--
Torch

Torch said:

IMO the D50 will be sharper out of the box until you get a good XT
lens and NOT THE KIT LENS. You had better take home several test
shots from both cams with a good XT lens and compare sharpness and
WB. This part annoying perhaps, but who else cares to make the
right decision?

Click to expand...

D50 with its kit lens (Nikkor 18-55) sharper? I do not think so.

You can find some decently made comparison shots with both cameras with their kit lenses here http://www.steves-digicams.com/2005_reviews/nikon_d50_samples.html

But I admit 350D will benefit a lot with some sharpening. I just applied a slight USM (50%, 1 pix, 0 levels) to the 350D sample pics found in in the WEB page given above, and really the D50 was left in dust. Funnily enough, the halos genrated by the USM action were about what we visible in the D50 pic, so I concluded D50 use a USM type of constrast boost already in the camera processing - which may make the post processing more difficult. And the resolution difference was clear.

So I think neither of the kit lenses is any top notch. Nikkor seem to suffer CA a bit more than Canon.

Torch said:

Above all. Do not be afraid to buy a lens and return it soon after
testing.
If standard WBs are not good enough you must take a reference shot
to set for custom WB or use WB shift / bracketing screen to adjust.
Move the WB point in an 8 point box to do 8 WB test shots.
Scroll down to see WB screen display:
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canoneos350d/page3.asp

Or shoot RAW and set WB later.

--
Torch

Click to expand...

how do you set the white balance in RAW? I've never quite understood how you can set the custom white point if there is no white in the photo?

When shooting jpeg and setting manual white balance, if there is no white around, you can always pull out a white hankerchief and use that as 'white'. If this same scene was shot in RAW how do you 'white balance' if there is no white in the photo?

My main point is in jpeg mode, once you se the custom white balance you can rattle off a hundred photos. In RAW mode in the same environment in post processing stage I guess you have to manually white balance all 100 photos i.e. 100x effort?