Intelligent sharpening with PSP7

Henry Richardson

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On this forum and in other places I have read about intelligent sharpening tools that are implemented as Photoshop actions that several people have mde available to download. I use Paint Shop Pro 7.04 and, unfortunately, it does not support actions. It does have many of the features of PS though so, I suspect, that if I knew what the actions actually do then I could manually perform the same functions in PSP7. Does anyone know what these intelligent sharpening actions do in detail?--Henry Richardson
http://www.hrich.com
 
On this forum and in other places I have read about intelligent
sharpening tools that are implemented as Photoshop actions that
several people have mde available to download. I use Paint Shop
Pro 7.04 and, unfortunately, it does not support actions. It does
have many of the features of PS though so, I suspect, that if I
knew what the actions actually do then I could manually perform the
same functions in PSP7. Does anyone know what these intelligent
sharpening actions do in detail?
I don't know anything about "Intelligent Sharpening", but I always use the somewhat intelligent technique used at the following URL:

http://www.quiknet.com/~frcn/Camera.html

Look at the Table of Contents-> Lessons-> Digital Imaging-> Advanced Sharpening in PaintShopPro. It works very well in my experience. I use it regularly. DUTCH
 
Henry,

A common principle is to sharpen only where there is already alot of detail, i.e. where there is highcontrast. The basic principle, without adding any details, is as follows:

1) Duplicate layer
2) Find edges and desaturate
3) Blur the result (to spread the effect)
4) Select the result (usually via an alpha channel)
5) Apply Unsharp Mask to the selection in (4).

The technique therefore applies the USM selectively, according to the black/grey/white of the selection.

I guess that this is very similar to sharpening edges but with more control.

Chris
 
Henry,

Here is a method that should help.

1) Duplicate the layer (Layer, Duplicate)

2) Effects, Edge, Find All

Which produces an image which is bright where there are edges and dark where there are not.

3) Effects, Blur, Gaussian Blur - Radius 4 to 6

This blurs the edge areas so that they include surrounding pixels, which will also be sharpened.

4) Effects, Enhance Photo, Auto Contrast Adjustment - Neutral, Normal, Bold.

The image after step 3 will be too dark. This method simply expands the range of luminosity values. Other techniques could also be used here.

5) Masks, New, From Image - This Window, Source Luminance.

Your original image will reappear at this point but will look distinctly odd with the areas to be sharpened pale and washed out.

6) Selection, From Mask

This creates a selection from the mask. Although you will see a relatively simple marquee, the selection is in fact more complex and contains gradational information.

7) Layers, Delete

You wil now see your original image with a selection.

8) Layers, Duplicate

9) Effects, Sharpen, Unsharp Mask.

Apply whatever values are appropriate. You will see that the sharpening only afsects some areas of the image and there is a smooth gradation from the sharpened to the unsharpened areas.

At this stage you are basically finished and can merge the layers. I find that the contrast enhancement of the unsharp mask tends to produce unnatural highlights so I would advise the following:

10) Layers, Properties. Select the Blend Ranges page and, on the This Layer range, slide the upper right marker to the left - typically to 200 or 210. This reduces the effect of the sharpened layer at high luminosities while preserving it at lower luminosities and to my mind produces a more natural effect.

Chris
 
Stupid question...

At the end of this you end up with two layers. Correct? Your original layer and the sharpened layer.

Do you need to merge them or can you just delete the original?
Does merging two layers of the same file size increase the size of the new file?

Karen
Henry,

Here is a method that should help.

1) Duplicate the layer (Layer, Duplicate)

2) Effects, Edge, Find All

Which produces an image which is bright where there are edges and
dark where there are not.

3) Effects, Blur, Gaussian Blur - Radius 4 to 6

This blurs the edge areas so that they include surrounding pixels,
which will also be sharpened.

4) Effects, Enhance Photo, Auto Contrast Adjustment - Neutral,
Normal, Bold.

The image after step 3 will be too dark. This method simply
expands the range of luminosity values. Other techniques could
also be used here.

5) Masks, New, From Image - This Window, Source Luminance.

Your original image will reappear at this point but will look
distinctly odd with the areas to be sharpened pale and washed out.

6) Selection, From Mask

This creates a selection from the mask. Although you will see a
relatively simple marquee, the selection is in fact more complex
and contains gradational information.

7) Layers, Delete

You wil now see your original image with a selection.

8) Layers, Duplicate

9) Effects, Sharpen, Unsharp Mask.

Apply whatever values are appropriate. You will see that the
sharpening only afsects some areas of the image and there is a
smooth gradation from the sharpened to the unsharpened areas.

At this stage you are basically finished and can merge the layers.
I find that the contrast enhancement of the unsharp mask tends to
produce unnatural highlights so I would advise the following:

10) Layers, Properties. Select the Blend Ranges page and, on the
This Layer range, slide the upper right marker to the left -
typically to 200 or 210. This reduces the effect of the sharpened
layer at high luminosities while preserving it at lower
luminosities and to my mind produces a more natural effect.

Chris
 
Stupid question...

At the end of this you end up with two layers. Correct? Your
original layer and the sharpened layer.
Correct.
Do you need to merge them or can you just delete the original?
You need to merge them.
Does merging two layers of the same file size increase the size of
the new file?
A file with two layers will be larger than one, so merging the layers will decrease file size (in comparison to a file with 2 layers).

Chris
 
Henry,

Here is a method that should help.
I'm sorry that I have not checked back on this thread that I started a few days ago until now. Naturally, the last few days I have been preoccupied with the terrorist attacks.

Thanks, Chris. This is the sort of thing I was looking for. I assume this is the type of thing Ultra-Sharpen and other intelligent Photoshop actions do. Too bad PSP7 doesn't have actions. Thanks again, I'll give it a try.
 
Henry,

Here is a method that should help.
I'm sorry that I have not checked back on this thread that I
started a few days ago until now. Naturally, the last few days I
have been preoccupied with the terrorist attacks.

Thanks, Chris. This is the sort of thing I was looking for. I
assume this is the type of thing Ultra-Sharpen and other
intelligent Photoshop actions do. Too bad PSP7 doesn't have
actions. Thanks again, I'll give it a try.
------------------
This used to be free but the plug-in still works just fine even as a demo.
http://www.ultrasharpen.com/
The standard settings are fine for most images.
Rinus
 
USP doesn't work in PSP7, shame as I think it could be the best sharpener from what I've seen. The standard PSP7 Sharpen and More Sharpen I find work better than any setting used in USM and nearly as good as most anything I've seen for not accentuating noise and looking natural so I use these. I prefer them in fact to Nik Sharpener on printouts which I find is too 'clever' and I can spot areas where sharpening has been/has not been applied on printouts. I find with my QV3000 on soft sharpening and then PSP7 on More Sharpen plus a little Edge Preserving Smooth (on 1 or 2) for noise reduction gives excellent print results on just about every photo.
Henry,

Here is a method that should help.
I'm sorry that I have not checked back on this thread that I
started a few days ago until now. Naturally, the last few days I
have been preoccupied with the terrorist attacks.

Thanks, Chris. This is the sort of thing I was looking for. I
assume this is the type of thing Ultra-Sharpen and other
intelligent Photoshop actions do. Too bad PSP7 doesn't have
actions. Thanks again, I'll give it a try.
------------------
This used to be free but the plug-in still works just fine even as
a demo.
http://www.ultrasharpen.com/
The standard settings are fine for most images.
Rinus
 
I've tried the demo of Nik Sharpener Pro and it is good, taking much of the guesswork out of the amount of sharpening that is appropriate for inkjet printers. If you are doing it manually there is a tendency to sharpen for screen view whereas printed output can stand rather more.

The problem with Nik Sharpener Pro is that it is not particularly selective and will also enhance noise in naturally out of focus background areas. The method that I outlined should not do this.

Chris
 
Chris,

In the past I have usually used USM on just the Lightness channel since that has been recommended by several people for some time. The Lightness channel seems to generally have less noise. After playing with your technique a bit I wonder what you think about combining your technique with the idea of only sharpening the Lightness channel? For example if 2 additional steps were added as shown below?
Henry,

Here is a method that should help.
0) Split the channels (Colors, Split Channel, Split to HSL)
1) Duplicate the layer (Layer, Duplicate)

2) Effects, Edge, Find All

Which produces an image which is bright where there are edges and
dark where there are not.

3) Effects, Blur, Gaussian Blur - Radius 4 to 6

This blurs the edge areas so that they include surrounding pixels,
which will also be sharpened.

4) Effects, Enhance Photo, Auto Contrast Adjustment - Neutral,
Normal, Bold.

The image after step 3 will be too dark. This method simply
expands the range of luminosity values. Other techniques could
also be used here.

5) Masks, New, From Image - This Window, Source Luminance.

Your original image will reappear at this point but will look
distinctly odd with the areas to be sharpened pale and washed out.

6) Selection, From Mask

This creates a selection from the mask. Although you will see a
relatively simple marquee, the selection is in fact more complex
and contains gradational information.

7) Layers, Delete

You wil now see your original image with a selection.

8) Layers, Duplicate

9) Effects, Sharpen, Unsharp Mask.

Apply whatever values are appropriate. You will see that the
sharpening only afsects some areas of the image and there is a
smooth gradation from the sharpened to the unsharpened areas.

At this stage you are basically finished and can merge the layers.
I find that the contrast enhancement of the unsharp mask tends to
produce unnatural highlights so I would advise the following:

10) Layers, Properties. Select the Blend Ranges page and, on the
This Layer range, slide the upper right marker to the left -
typically to 200 or 210. This reduces the effect of the sharpened
layer at high luminosities while preserving it at lower
luminosities and to my mind produces a more natural effect.
11) Recombine the channels (Colors, Combine Channel, Combine from HSL)
 
Henry,

Sorry for the delay - a busy weekend 'on duty' with relatives!

Yes, refining the method to sharpen the lightness channel may produce good results. I did not attempt to provide a definitive method, rather a working model that could be used as-is or refined.

We must also remember that this is Paint Shop Pro and too many steps will make the method long winded and harder to follow.

Chris
Chris,

In the past I have usually used USM on just the Lightness channel
since that has been recommended by several people for some time.
The Lightness channel seems to generally have less noise. After
playing with your technique a bit I wonder what you think about
combining your technique with the idea of only sharpening the
Lightness channel? For example if 2 additional steps were added as
shown below?
 
Yes, refining the method to sharpen the lightness channel may
produce good results. I did not attempt to provide a definitive
method, rather a working model that could be used as-is or refined.
Thanks again for your help. I am newer at all of this than you and some of the other experienced people here so I am just trying to learn. I just wanted to find out if my addition made sense.
 
Henry,

Splitting the image into HSL (Hue, Saturation, Lightness) channels would normally be used when removing luminosity noise from a digital photo because most of this type of noise can be seen in the lightness channel.

Using the lightness channel alone for sharpening is interesting. Theoretically, I think that it should be of benefit because it means that you are not modifying the basic colour information but enhancing the image by increasing the contrast - which is what USM does.

As an experiment, I tried a comparison using the same image and same USM parameters, first on a 'whole' image and then on a lightness channel only. There IS a diiference and the lightness channel only seemed to produce a slightly sharper result. I proved this by copying and pasting the final results as 2 layers and blending using Difference. The result appears black (which it would be if the 2 were identical) until you start adjusting the levels for the result and then you can see that they are not the same.

The big question is whether sharpening the lightness channel on its own is any better than using USM on the whole image but with slightly higher settings. Here we get into the realms of personal preference. My gut feel is that the difference between the two methods is not sufficient to warrant the extra effort required to split and then recombine the channels. Others may think otherwise.

To branch the thread off in a different direction, I wonder if one of the 'macro' utilities that can be used to record and playback keystrokes for any Windows program could be made to work profitably with PSP?

Chris
 
Chris,

I'm very interested in your edge sharpening method, but can't apply it due also probably to my language problems: I have PS 6.0 in Italian, and I can't translate well the Menu's voices in English.

Could it be possible for you to post somewhere a correspondent PS action file for downloading?
Thanks
Pier Luigi
Henry,

Splitting the image into HSL (Hue, Saturation, Lightness) channels
would normally be used when removing luminosity noise from a
digital photo because most of this type of noise can be seen in the
lightness channel.

Using the lightness channel alone for sharpening is interesting.
Theoretically, I think that it should be of benefit because it
means that you are not modifying the basic colour information but
enhancing the image by increasing the contrast - which is what USM
does.

As an experiment, I tried a comparison using the same image and
same USM parameters, first on a 'whole' image and then on a
lightness channel only. There IS a diiference and the lightness
channel only seemed to produce a slightly sharper result. I proved
this by copying and pasting the final results as 2 layers and
blending using Difference. The result appears black (which it
would be if the 2 were identical) until you start adjusting the
levels for the result and then you can see that they are not the
same.

The big question is whether sharpening the lightness channel on its
own is any better than using USM on the whole image but with
slightly higher settings. Here we get into the realms of personal
preference. My gut feel is that the difference between the two
methods is not sufficient to warrant the extra effort required to
split and then recombine the channels. Others may think otherwise.

To branch the thread off in a different direction, I wonder if one
of the 'macro' utilities that can be used to record and playback
keystrokes for any Windows program could be made to work profitably
with PSP?

Chris
 
Pier,

It is not 'my' method at all, but a rough translation of a general principle that is widely known. A very well explained version of the basic technique applied to Photoshop can be found at:

http://www.creativepro.com/story/feature/12189-1.html

It should be fairly easy to take the steps involved and create an action from them.

A good Photoshop implementation used to be available free as "UltraSharpenPro 3". This has now gone commercial as version 5 at a cost of $20. There is a free demo available, but it apparently lacks control. You can find it at:

http://www.ultrasharpen.com/

Chris
Chris,
I'm very interested in your edge sharpening method, but can't apply
it due also probably to my language problems: I have PS 6.0 in
Italian, and I can't translate well the Menu's voices in English.
Could it be possible for you to post somewhere a correspondent PS
action file for downloading?
Thanks
Pier Luigi
 

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