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D30 Butterfly Gallery/Equipment Intensive

  • Thread starter Thread starter DonCohen
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DonCohen

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I thought I'd post a message/link to a new gallery added to my website last night, as the shoot was fairly equipment intensive.

I'm aware that the general concensus here from a whiel back was to post general interest photos in the Samples and Galleries forum, but since the orientation here to some degree is equipment related, I thought it reasonable to post here.

The link to the site is:

http://www.dlcphotography.net/BF/BFFrameSet.htm

They were taken (except for two taken in my backyard) at the Magic Butterfly Gardens, part of the NC Museum of Life & Science at Durham, NC. I made two trips there, with the second more effective based on the results and experience of the first week.

The shots were fairly equipment intensive, and I thought the details might
interest some:

I used the Canon 100-400L/f4.5-5.6 IS lens with a Kenko extension tube (20 mm) to decrease the minimum focus distance from 6 feet to about 4 feet.

To get adequate depth of field, I really needed about f/16, and to stop

subject and camera motion, about 1/200 second. Even at ISO 400 (I wanted to avoid the increased noise of 800 or 1600) there wasn't nearly enough ambient light, so had to add the Canon 550EX to the mix. To allow landscape and portrait switching, I put the flash on the Wimberley Combo 2 Macro Flash Bracket, and triggered it with the ST-E2 on the camera's hot-shoe.

The whole setup was quite heavy, and following butterflies and snapping
quick shots wasn't conducive to using a tripod (which would also completely
obstruct the fairly narrow path). So I used a Bogen 449 Carbon Fiber
monopod, with the Arca-Swiss B1 ballhead, and the 2nd week added the
Wimberley Sidekick (that I have on a trial basis). This made the whole
apparatus pretty stable and maneuverable, and I was able to get fairly
quickly into shooting position. All in all, I was pleased with the
equipment side of things.

I have a shot of the setup itself on the page as well.

Comments, constructive criticism always welcome.

Don
http://www.dlcphotography.net
 
Don, thanks for sharing, great photos!

That's one heck of a set-up. I'm currently on-hold with buying my next lens, the 100mm f2.8 macro at $1000.00 CDN will have to wait.
I may give some extension tubes a try with my 100-400 and my 50mm 1.8

I suspect you can't AF with the tubes, as there would be too much light loss, did you find manual focussing balancing that heavy combo of stuff on the monopod difficult?

Steve
DonCohen said:
I thought I'd post a message/link to a new gallery added to my
website last night, as the shoot was fairly equipment intensive.

I'm aware that the general concensus here from a whiel back was to
post general interest photos in the Samples and Galleries forum,
but since the orientation here to some degree is equipment related,
I thought it reasonable to post here.

The link to the site is:

http://www.dlcphotography.net/BF/BFFrameSet.htm

They were taken (except for two taken in my backyard) at the Magic
Butterfly Gardens, part of the NC Museum of Life & Science at
Durham, NC. I made two trips there, with the second more effective
based on the results and experience of the first week.

The shots were fairly equipment intensive, and I thought the
details might
interest some:

I used the Canon 100-400L/f4.5-5.6 IS lens with a Kenko extension
tube (20 mm) to decrease the minimum focus distance from 6 feet to
about 4 feet.

To get adequate depth of field, I really needed about f/16, and to
stop
subject and camera motion, about 1/200 second. Even at ISO 400 (I
wanted to avoid the increased noise of 800 or 1600) there wasn't
nearly enough ambient light, so had to add the Canon 550EX to the
mix. To allow landscape and portrait switching, I put the flash on
the Wimberley Combo 2 Macro Flash Bracket, and triggered it with
the ST-E2 on the camera's hot-shoe.

The whole setup was quite heavy, and following butterflies and
snapping
quick shots wasn't conducive to using a tripod (which would also
completely
obstruct the fairly narrow path). So I used a Bogen 449 Carbon Fiber
monopod, with the Arca-Swiss B1 ballhead, and the 2nd week added the
Wimberley Sidekick (that I have on a trial basis). This made the
whole
apparatus pretty stable and maneuverable, and I was able to get fairly
quickly into shooting position. All in all, I was pleased with the
equipment side of things.

I have a shot of the setup itself on the page as well.

Comments, constructive criticism always welcome.

Don
http://www.dlcphotography.net
Click to expand...
 
Hi Steve,
Member said:
Don, thanks for sharing, great photos!
That's one heck of a set-up. I'm currently on-hold with buying my
next lens, the 100mm f2.8 macro at $1000.00 CDN will have to wait.
I may give some extension tubes a try with my 100-400 and my 50mm
1.8
Click to expand...
They are handy and relatively cheap ($120 at B&H for the set of 3), and can be used with any lens. Used with the 50/f1.8 you'll get to 1:1 magnification, although your working distances will be fairly short.
Member said:
I suspect you can't AF with the tubes, as there would be too much
light loss, did you find manual focussing balancing that heavy
combo of stuff on the monopod difficult?
Click to expand...
The tubes don't interfere with AF, although due to less light they might make it more difficult. In this setup, AF worked OK, but I normally use manual focus with this type of shooting anyway, as it's more precise. Typically I have my hand on the focus ring, and simultaneously use my body to kind of move in or out to focus. You usually want the eye of the subject to be in crisp focus, so I'll be watching that in the viewfinder and press the shutter when it looks right. Takes a bit of practice, but I'm beginning to find it more and more comfortable working this way.

Don
http://www.dlcphotography.net
 
Your hard work paid off - these are very beautiful photos! Thanks for the details too, Don!
DonCohen said:
I thought I'd post a message/link to a new gallery added to my
website last night, as the shoot was fairly equipment intensive.

I'm aware that the general concensus here from a whiel back was to
post general interest photos in the Samples and Galleries forum,
but since the orientation here to some degree is equipment related,
I thought it reasonable to post here.

The link to the site is:

http://www.dlcphotography.net/BF/BFFrameSet.htm

They were taken (except for two taken in my backyard) at the Magic
Butterfly Gardens, part of the NC Museum of Life & Science at
Durham, NC. I made two trips there, with the second more effective
based on the results and experience of the first week.

The shots were fairly equipment intensive, and I thought the
details might
interest some:

I used the Canon 100-400L/f4.5-5.6 IS lens with a Kenko extension
tube (20 mm) to decrease the minimum focus distance from 6 feet to
about 4 feet.

To get adequate depth of field, I really needed about f/16, and to
stop
subject and camera motion, about 1/200 second. Even at ISO 400 (I
wanted to avoid the increased noise of 800 or 1600) there wasn't
nearly enough ambient light, so had to add the Canon 550EX to the
mix. To allow landscape and portrait switching, I put the flash on
the Wimberley Combo 2 Macro Flash Bracket, and triggered it with
the ST-E2 on the camera's hot-shoe.

The whole setup was quite heavy, and following butterflies and
snapping
quick shots wasn't conducive to using a tripod (which would also
completely
obstruct the fairly narrow path). So I used a Bogen 449 Carbon Fiber
monopod, with the Arca-Swiss B1 ballhead, and the 2nd week added the
Wimberley Sidekick (that I have on a trial basis). This made the
whole
apparatus pretty stable and maneuverable, and I was able to get fairly
quickly into shooting position. All in all, I was pleased with the
equipment side of things.

I have a shot of the setup itself on the page as well.

Comments, constructive criticism always welcome.

Don
http://www.dlcphotography.net
Click to expand...
 
Great pictures well deserved.

One question is that strong shadows are noticeable on some of them. What would be the way to avoid it ?
 
Pondria said:
Great pictures well deserved.
One question is that strong shadows are noticeable on some of them.
What would be the way to avoid it ?
Click to expand...
Canon's macro ring flash is nice. The ratio of each of the two tubes can be controlled to avoid a very flat flash effect when they are fired at an equal level.

Don L
 
Hello Don,

Are Kenko extensoin tubes strong enough? I read some less-than-positive notes on their build quality. I have the EF50 f/1.4 USM and should I use all 3 to gain 1:1 magnification?

I also have the magnificant EF100-400L USM, so do I still need the EF100 Macro?

Those heads, sidekicks and flash arms are just kinda -- beyond my reach.

Thank you for all your great macro photos.

Griffin.
DonCohen said:
They are handy and relatively cheap ($120 at B&H for the set of 3),
and can be used with any lens. Used with the 50/f1.8 you'll get to
1:1 magnification, although your working distances will be fairly
short.
Click to expand...
 
Don,
You still amaze me with your excellent work.
My best to you and your family.

Jim C.
DonCohen said:
I thought I'd post a message/link to a new gallery added to my
website last night, as the shoot was fairly equipment intensive.

I'm aware that the general concensus here from a whiel back was to
post general interest photos in the Samples and Galleries forum,
but since the orientation here to some degree is equipment related,
I thought it reasonable to post here.

The link to the site is:

http://www.dlcphotography.net/BF/BFFrameSet.htm

They were taken (except for two taken in my backyard) at the Magic
Butterfly Gardens, part of the NC Museum of Life & Science at
Durham, NC. I made two trips there, with the second more effective
based on the results and experience of the first week.

The shots were fairly equipment intensive, and I thought the
details might
interest some:

I used the Canon 100-400L/f4.5-5.6 IS lens with a Kenko extension
tube (20 mm) to decrease the minimum focus distance from 6 feet to
about 4 feet.

To get adequate depth of field, I really needed about f/16, and to
stop
subject and camera motion, about 1/200 second. Even at ISO 400 (I
wanted to avoid the increased noise of 800 or 1600) there wasn't
nearly enough ambient light, so had to add the Canon 550EX to the
mix. To allow landscape and portrait switching, I put the flash on
the Wimberley Combo 2 Macro Flash Bracket, and triggered it with
the ST-E2 on the camera's hot-shoe.

The whole setup was quite heavy, and following butterflies and
snapping
quick shots wasn't conducive to using a tripod (which would also
completely
obstruct the fairly narrow path). So I used a Bogen 449 Carbon Fiber
monopod, with the Arca-Swiss B1 ballhead, and the 2nd week added the
Wimberley Sidekick (that I have on a trial basis). This made the
whole
apparatus pretty stable and maneuverable, and I was able to get fairly
quickly into shooting position. All in all, I was pleased with the
equipment side of things.

I have a shot of the setup itself on the page as well.

Comments, constructive criticism always welcome.

Don
http://www.dlcphotography.net
Click to expand...
 
Pondria said:
Great pictures well deserved.
Click to expand...
Thanks!
Pondria said:
One question is that strong shadows are noticeable on some of them.
What would be the way to avoid it ?
Click to expand...
This is a problem, and they're too noticeable as far as I'm concerned. Don L's reply on using the MR-14EX Ring Flash is a good one if you're using the Canon 100/f2.8 Macro lens, but I suspect it may not be useable with the 100-400 lens. I'll have to check that option, though, to be certain.

Using the Stofen Omnibounce will help some, but wouldn't eliminate it. It does cut the power quite a bit, restricting the distance range, and that's why I didn't use it as much as I might otherwise want to.

A dual-flash setup would pretty much eliminate it, and allow you to control the lighting better. I'm hesitant to try this because it would make the equipment setup even more cumbersome than it is, but I might need to play around with this option.

Finally, using a reflector (probably requiring an assistant to physically hold it) would help fill in shadows.

Shadows unfortunately are an almost inevitable problem with flash use, unless some of the options above are used. And natural light wasn't really an option, given the light level in the butterfly house, the aperture needed for proper dof, and the inability to use a tripod there.

Thanks for raising this issue, as I think it's an important one.

Don
http://www.dlcphotography.net
 
Hi Griffin,
Griffin said:
Are Kenko extensoin tubes strong enough? I read some
less-than-positive notes on their build quality. I have the EF50
f/1.4 USM and should I use all 3 to gain 1:1 magnification?
Click to expand...
Any extension tube is just a hollow space of a given length (along with the electrical contacts to allow the lens to communicate properly with the camera). There is no glass involved. They just reduce the minimum focus distance of a lens, with the price being a little less light, and loss of infinity focus.

You might want to pick up John Shaw's book "Closeups in Nature" where he provides a wealth of information, tips, and examples on macro photography. He gives the following formula for extension:

Magnification=Extension Used/Focal Length

This will generally be fairly accurate. So a 50 mm lens will require 50 mm of extension to get 1:1 magnification. A 400 mm lens will require 400 mm of extension to get to 1:1, which is not generally practical. So shorter focal length lenses will get proportionately greater effect with the use of extension.

But with a telephoto lens, small amounts of extension can be used very successfully to decrease minimum focus distance, and while not getting to 1:1, for example, create potential for macro type shots, as I did with the 100-400 lens in these photos.
Griffin said:
I also have the magnificant EF100-400L USM, so do I still need the
EF100 Macro?
Click to expand...
The 100-400 with extension will give pretty decent macro performance, but won't be as versatile as the 100 Macro, or enable magnification as high. With the full 68 mm of extension on the 100 Macro, I can get to about 2x magnification (see my macro gallery http://www.dlcphotography.net/Macro/MacroFrameSet.htm for examples).
Griffin said:
Those heads, sidekicks and flash arms are just kinda -- beyond my
reach.
Click to expand...
A good photographer will still get very good images with whatever equipment they have at their disposal. So don't let that stop you from trying, playing and learning.
Griffin said:
Thank you for all your great macro photos.
Click to expand...
You're most welcome.

Don
http://www.dlcphotography.net
 
Hello Don,

First thanks for your responses. It is very helpful.
DonCohen said:
Member said:
Are Kenko extensoin tubes strong enough? I read some
less-than-positive notes on their build quality. I have the EF50
f/1.4 USM and should I use all 3 to gain 1:1 magnification?
Click to expand...
Any extension tube is just a hollow space of a given length (along
with the electrical contacts to allow the lens to communicate
properly with the camera). There is no glass involved. They just
reduce the minimum focus distance of a lens, with the price being a
little less light, and loss of infinity focus.
Click to expand...
I know it is just a hollow plastic tube with electrical contacts and they just charge USD120 for it! (Just keep me wondering if I could build one myself) How about the quality of Kenko tubes? Will they break under EF100-400?
Member said:
You might want to pick up John Shaw's book "Closeups in Nature"
where he provides a wealth of information, tips, and examples on
macro photography. He gives the following formula for extension:
Click to expand...
Yep, it is in the hands of Amazon.com (plus Shaw's book on outdoors photography) and I am sure they are shipping it to me any time soon.
Member said:
Member said:
I also have the magnificant EF100-400L USM, so do I still need the
EF100 Macro?
Click to expand...
The 100-400 with extension will give pretty decent macro
performance, but won't be as versatile as the 100 Macro, or enable
magnification as high. With the full 68 mm of extension on the 100
Macro, I can get to about 2x magnification (see my macro gallery
http://www.dlcphotography.net/Macro/MacroFrameSet.htm for examples).
Click to expand...
Sorry, my actually question is if a EEF50 f/1.4 + ext. tubes would eliminate the needs of EF100.

Furthermore, is there any chance that the combination EF100-400 + 500D + extension tubes work? I better search about this.
Member said:
A good photographer will still get very good images with whatever
equipment they have at their disposal. So don't let that stop you
from trying, playing and learning.
Click to expand...
Sure.

Would a ring flash better than a normal flash? I am going to pick up a Sigma later this week and would there be any macro bracket which is not as expensive as KrikPhoto and Wimberley gears.

Thanks for sharing. autumn is coming and the sky in my place is often filled with dragonflies. I think after that, I have to wait till next year for flower and insects macro shots.

Griffin.
 
Griffin said:
First thanks for your responses. It is very helpful.
DonCohen said:
Griffin said:
Are Kenko extensoin tubes strong enough? I read some
less-than-positive notes on their build quality. I have the EF50
f/1.4 USM and should I use all 3 to gain 1:1 magnification?
Click to expand...
Any extension tube is just a hollow space of a given length (along
with the electrical contacts to allow the lens to communicate
properly with the camera). There is no glass involved. They just
reduce the minimum focus distance of a lens, with the price being a
little less light, and loss of infinity focus.
Click to expand...
I know it is just a hollow plastic tube with electrical contacts
and they just charge USD120 for it! (Just keep me wondering if I
could build one myself) How about the quality of Kenko tubes? Will
they break under EF100-400?
Click to expand...
Those electronic contacts are spring-loaded, so I would think it would be pretty hard to do unless you are very handy with a lot of tools for the task. As the quality, I believe they are fairly strong, but I won't do extensive tests to prove myself wrong :o). As you would have guessed it, if you are using EF100-400 on it, you would want to hold on to the lens itself as you would use it without the tubes.
Griffin said:
Griffin said:
You might want to pick up John Shaw's book "Closeups in Nature"
where he provides a wealth of information, tips, and examples on
macro photography. He gives the following formula for extension:
Click to expand...
Yep, it is in the hands of Amazon.com (plus Shaw's book on outdoors
photography) and I am sure they are shipping it to me any time soon.
Griffin said:
Griffin said:
I also have the magnificant EF100-400L USM, so do I still need the
EF100 Macro?
Click to expand...
The 100-400 with extension will give pretty decent macro
performance, but won't be as versatile as the 100 Macro, or enable
magnification as high. With the full 68 mm of extension on the 100
Macro, I can get to about 2x magnification (see my macro gallery
http://www.dlcphotography.net/Macro/MacroFrameSet.htm for examples).
Click to expand...
Sorry, my actually question is if a EEF50 f/1.4 + ext. tubes would
eliminate the needs of EF100.
Click to expand...
Kenko extension tubes and a 50mm gives you image magnification ratios ranging from 0.24x to 1.47x. Here is a page from Adorama with detail information:

http://www.adoramacamera.com/details.tpl?cart=997506357131878&sku=KNAETSEOS&disp_main-category=Cameras%20%26%20Lenses&disp_category=35mm%20SLR&disp_Sub-Category=Close-Up%20Accessories

As you can see, it does not give you a continuous magnification ratio range as a EF100 macro would, I would guess. So, it might not be as convenient as it would be with EF100 macro.
Griffin said:
Furthermore, is there any chance that the combination EF100-400 +
500D + extension tubes work? I better search about this.
Griffin said:
A good photographer will still get very good images with whatever
equipment they have at their disposal. So don't let that stop you
from trying, playing and learning.
Click to expand...
Sure.

Would a ring flash better than a normal flash? I am going to pick
up a Sigma later this week and would there be any macro bracket
which is not as expensive as KrikPhoto and Wimberley gears.
Click to expand...
A ring flash would be better in some cases, but not all cases. Specific use case information on ring flash can be found here in this form a little while ago. You should be able to find enough information to answer most of your questions, as it answered mine.

I use Bogen 3429 flash bracket combined with a small ballhead in the flash end, and find it very convenient. The bracket is under $30 and a small ballhead is under $20, so this combination might be an alternative to the more expensive ones. Here is the link to the Bogen bracket:

http://www01.bhphotovideo.com/default.sph/FrameWork.class?FNC=ProductActivator__Aproductlist_html___188066___BO3429___REG___CatID=0___

Hope this helps.

Charles
Griffin said:
Thanks for sharing. autumn is coming and the sky in my place is
often filled with dragonflies. I think after that, I have to wait
till next year for flower and insects macro shots.

Griffin.
Click to expand...
 
Well I bought the tubes.
With my 50mm f1.8 I can now get reeeeally close.
But man, focussing is waaaay more difficult than I thought it would be.
This is going to take some practice.

Steve
DonCohen said:
Hi Steve,

They are handy and relatively cheap ($120 at B&H for the set of 3),
and can be used with any lens. Used with the 50/f1.8 you'll get to
1:1 magnification, although your working distances will be fairly
short.
Click to expand...
 
Hi Steve,
Member said:
Well I bought the tubes.
With my 50mm f1.8 I can now get reeeeally close.
But man, focussing is waaaay more difficult than I thought it would
be.
This is going to take some practice.
Click to expand...
Definitely! Generally, you don't want to use AF with macro photography. Just put it in MF on the lens, use the focus ring to get it approximately right, and then just kind of use your body to sway in and out to fine-tune the focus, gently squeezing the shutter when it looks right in the viewfinder. Definitely takes some practice.

It's also a bit of a problem if you're using a tripod, as it's cumbersome to try and move the whole setup back and forth to get the framing and magnification you want. But there again, you'd use MF to visually put in focus what you want.

Have fun!

Don
http://www.dlcphotography.net
 
Don:

Good technique!

It occured to me that a focusing bellows on a rail would make things MUCH simpler with a tripod setup, or on a copy stand. I wonder if you have looked into that?

In any case, I'll go on a quest now and see what I can come up with.

Jack Winberg
DonCohen said:
Member said:
Well I bought the tubes.
With my 50mm f1.8 I can now get reeeeally close.
But man, focussing is waaaay more difficult than I thought it would
be.
This is going to take some practice.
Click to expand...
Definitely! Generally, you don't want to use AF with macro
photography. Just put it in MF on the lens, use the focus ring to
get it approximately right, and then just kind of use your body to
sway in and out to fine-tune the focus, gently squeezing the
shutter when it looks right in the viewfinder. Definitely takes
some practice.

It's also a bit of a problem if you're using a tripod, as it's
cumbersome to try and move the whole setup back and forth to get
the framing and magnification you want. But there again, you'd use
MF to visually put in focus what you want.

Have fun!

Don
http://www.dlcphotography.net
Click to expand...
 
Jack,

I purchased one of these:

http://www01.bhphotovideo.com/default.sph/FrameWork.class?FNC=ProductActivator__Aproductlist_html___141607___VEMSQ___REG___CatID=0___SID=E8FD710A080

I have not used it extensively but I think it has great potential.

Regards,

John L.
Jack Winberg said:
Good technique!

It occured to me that a focusing bellows on a rail would make
things MUCH simpler with a tripod setup, or on a copy stand. I
wonder if you have looked into that?

In any case, I'll go on a quest now and see what I can come up with.

Jack Winberg
DonCohen said:
Jack Winberg said:
Well I bought the tubes.
With my 50mm f1.8 I can now get reeeeally close.
But man, focussing is waaaay more difficult than I thought it would
be.
This is going to take some practice.
Click to expand...
Definitely! Generally, you don't want to use AF with macro
photography. Just put it in MF on the lens, use the focus ring to
get it approximately right, and then just kind of use your body to
sway in and out to fine-tune the focus, gently squeezing the
shutter when it looks right in the viewfinder. Definitely takes
some practice.

It's also a bit of a problem if you're using a tripod, as it's
cumbersome to try and move the whole setup back and forth to get
the framing and magnification you want. But there again, you'd use
MF to visually put in focus what you want.

Have fun!

Don
http://www.dlcphotography.net
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
John:

I just ordered one.

Thank you!

Jack
John L. said:
I purchased one of these:

http://www01.bhphotovideo.com/default.sph/FrameWork.class?FNC=ProductActivator__Aproductlist_html___141607___VEMSQ___REG___CatID=0___SID=E8FD710A080

I have not used it extensively but I think it has great potential.

Regards,

John L.
Jack Winberg said:
Good technique!

It occured to me that a focusing bellows on a rail would make
things MUCH simpler with a tripod setup, or on a copy stand. I
wonder if you have looked into that?

In any case, I'll go on a quest now and see what I can come up with.

Jack Winberg
DonCohen said:
John L.41003 said:
Well I bought the tubes.
With my 50mm f1.8 I can now get reeeeally close.
But man, focussing is waaaay more difficult than I thought it would
be.
This is going to take some practice.
Click to expand...
Definitely! Generally, you don't want to use AF with macro
photography. Just put it in MF on the lens, use the focus ring to
get it approximately right, and then just kind of use your body to
sway in and out to fine-tune the focus, gently squeezing the
shutter when it looks right in the viewfinder. Definitely takes
some practice.

It's also a bit of a problem if you're using a tripod, as it's
cumbersome to try and move the whole setup back and forth to get
the framing and magnification you want. But there again, you'd use
MF to visually put in focus what you want.

Have fun!

Don
http://www.dlcphotography.net
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
Hi Guys,

I was going to mention focus rails in my original reply as a good way to do macro work with a tripod.

I had a bellows that I used with a Canon FTb many years ago, which had focus rails built-in, and they worked great.

I don't have one now, but the link you provided looks like it would do the job. There are other manufacturers (the names escape me at the moment) of similar items.

Thanks for the link.

Don
http://www.dlcphotography.net
Jack Winberg said:
I just ordered one.

Thank you!

Jack
John L. said:
I purchased one of these:

http://www01.bhphotovideo.com/default.sph/FrameWork.class?FNC=ProductActivator__Aproductlist_html___141607___VEMSQ___REG___CatID=0___SID=E8FD710A080

I have not used it extensively but I think it has great potential.

Regards,

John L.
Jack Winberg said:
Good technique!

It occured to me that a focusing bellows on a rail would make
things MUCH simpler with a tripod setup, or on a copy stand. I
wonder if you have looked into that?

In any case, I'll go on a quest now and see what I can come up with.

Jack Winberg
DonCohen said:
Jack Winberg said:
Well I bought the tubes.
With my 50mm f1.8 I can now get reeeeally close.
But man, focussing is waaaay more difficult than I thought it would
be.
This is going to take some practice.
Click to expand...
Definitely! Generally, you don't want to use AF with macro
photography. Just put it in MF on the lens, use the focus ring to
get it approximately right, and then just kind of use your body to
sway in and out to fine-tune the focus, gently squeezing the
shutter when it looks right in the viewfinder. Definitely takes
some practice.

It's also a bit of a problem if you're using a tripod, as it's
cumbersome to try and move the whole setup back and forth to get
the framing and magnification you want. But there again, you'd use
MF to visually put in focus what you want.

Have fun!

Don
http://www.dlcphotography.net
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