SD9 & dRebel XT - two outdoor same lens tests

Adobe's site says CR 3.1 added the
Rebel XT, but that is PS CS2 only.
Use the 3.1 DNG converter and then open the DNG in CS.
Anyone have any other suggestions?
RSE: http://www.pixmantec.com/index2.html
Capture 1 free trial http://www.phaseone.com/Content/Downloads.aspx

While RSE is not always my favorite w.r.t. results, I think that
SPP could be improved by stealing a few ideas from it's workflow.

--
Erik
 
I think DSG and all the rest of us are referring to this one
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&message=12346107

This was a real good comparison made by Dr. noise....
and it was debated for weeks.....notice all the canon-guys with all
their strange excuses and explanation.... they had a hard time
explaining why a 3,4 MP Sigma seemed to be about equal to their
famous 8 MP 20 D...
After that, I think most of us are fed up with comparision...
That was a 50 EX vs 50/1.4, the difference in those lenses alone on the same body will water your eyes. Plus it wasn't interpolated adaptively.
 
How many more deal (image) link references are people going to post here?

You seem to be making the case for new example -- because most of the previous test images -- are no longer there!

And that reality, might just be the point of this thread.

--

Peace.

========================
http://www.pbase.com/jarvic7/root

 
The lens difference is significant in brightness and sharpness.
Plus the Canon camera was moved closer to the subject. Plus
Canon's 50mm equals about 55 "Sigma mm's." Plus the detailed
portions aren't colorful.
It's often useful to look at the extremes of your reasoning.

put a 50 on a 4x5 and then put a 50 on a 35mm half frame, then make a n 8x10 print -- and then compare the images?

And, this tap dancing around this color sharpness issues is getting funny.
there are many colorful displays of detail, take the watch for example.

the full sized images are there, and there are plenty of color areas to compare:





And you think that the Sigma 50mm macro is not sharp....

It's close, and an outstanding performance for a camera with 3.5mp photo.
As others have noted, for a given number of pixels, the foveon
seems to be about twice as sharp as bayer.

So, a foveon 3.5mp == 7.0mp bayer (and that seems to be the case)
That's about right for B&W. In color the Foveon carries a little
more detail than an 8MP Bayer.
--

Peace.

========================
http://www.pbase.com/jarvic7/root

 
The lens difference is significant in brightness and sharpness.
Plus the Canon camera was moved closer to the subject. Plus
Canon's 50mm equals about 55 "Sigma mm's." Plus the detailed
portions aren't colorful.
It's often useful to look at the extremes of your reasoning.

put a 50 on a 4x5 and then put a 50 on a 35mm half frame, then make
a n 8x10 print -- and then compare the images?
I meant the Canon 50/1.4 is a noticably stronger lens than the Sigma 50 EX. To equalize the FOVs on the same body, you need about 55 Sigma mms. Strange but true.
And, this tap dancing around this color sharpness issues is getting
funny.
there are many colorful displays of detail, take the watch for
example.

the full sized images are there, and there are plenty of color
areas to compare:
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/SigmaSD10/Samples/Compared/sidebyside/sd10.jpg

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/SigmaSD10/Samples/Compared/sidebyside/eos10d-sd10size.jpg

Not much colorful detail there IMO, most of the intricate stuff involves black and/or white which is best case for a Bayer.
And you think that the Sigma 50mm macro is not sharp....
Definitely not as sharp as the 50/1.4.
It's close, and an outstanding performance for a camera with 3.5mp
photo.
Even more outstanding considering the lens delta.
 
and does SPP have a negative sharpening setting? If so you should set it on the most negative setting possible, the sdxx shouldn't need any sharpening.

--
Dasigmaguy wrote:

However, the thing is that it is almost never necessary to > use anything higher than ISO200 as the SD10 has such a > good dynamic range.


Narrow depth of field ahead
Use extreme caution

http://www.pbase.com/paulyoly/root
 
Either you like it or not. We choose Sigma.
But before you criticize try it and print some samples to full A4 or A3.
Then come here to the forum and tell us about your experience.
Or ask an advice
But don’t spoil the forum with brainless messages.

We are here because we trying to learn from each other or just to view/present some of our work.
Get a life

Conclusion

Sigma provides more natural (Film like) look to our images with simple operation and instant preview (it’s a true Digital Film Camera).
No more no less.
The lenses are very nice to excellent (EX series).
So I need no more than true inspiration and time to use all that.
Have fun

K.S.
 
The post processing didn't change the constrast in a way you couldn't do in RAW, but I didn't want to RAW-process vs post-process - not entirely fair. The RAW conversions from today look very similar in both color and contrast straight out of the RAW processors.

It's actually surprising how close the same-lens color renditions are when manually WB'd in RAW. Including foliage. The biggest color difference from today's shots are blues in skys, the SD9's are a little too deep and the dR's are a little bit more too pale. It has me wondering if this isn't due to some sort of sensor induced polarization instead of straight blue sensitivity.

Images to follow.
and does SPP have a negative sharpening setting? If so you should
set it on the most negative setting possible, the sdxx shouldn't
need any sharpening.
They don't need any with a sharp lens. The dR really doesn't need any either unless you view its images interpolated way up to 8MP.
 
Now we know the SDs can produce equal or better color results when
compareed to an excellent 8MP Bayer at the the same recorded image
dimensions. If you NeatImge the picture slightly, it looks even
more similar.

No one had ever demonstrated that before this thread.
Yes they have, many months ago when the 20D was compared to the
SD10....The conclusion was that they were pretty evenly matched and
I have been saying so ever since, though it seems to deaf ears!
This is why I asked why this new comparsion was even necessary,
when in fact its old news and should be well known by now.
If you are refering to your test, you used a Sigma 50EX and a Canon
50/1.4, if I remember correctly. No?
No, that was not my test, though I did conduct one of my own which had the same results.

Regards

DSG

--
http://sigmasd10.fotopic.net/
 
Except that it makes no sense. There is no polarization direction
that will always make skies bluer. Rotating the camera would
completely change the color. Just silly words, no more.
How absurd to think that a piece of spinning glass is the only way the quantum properties of photons may affect something.
 
Obviously if there is no other way to get the shot, degrading the
image using a higher ISO is your only choice. But high ISO is no
substitute for light, it always degrades the image.
Faster lenses are no substitute either as you can get the desired DOF
No substitue for what?
Photography is and was always a compromise between aperture,
shutterspeed and ISO or film speed. None of the parameters is worth
more or less than the other. All are required to handle different
situations.

Using a faster aperture degrades an image also if more DOF was
nessecary, a slower shutter speed degrades the image also if
movement had to be stopped.
By that measure, lower ISO also degrades the image.
ISO is actually the better one as it does not affect the creative
result of the image. Some cameras have higher ISO that looks better
than lower ISO on others so in this case it doesnt even degrade the
image relativelty at all.

--
Michael Salzlechner
http://www.PalmsWestPhoto.com
 
Digital Photo Pro did a better job with this scene. No postprocessing only RAW conversion. Both shots are manually WB'd to match my memory. Focal point is the highest flower in the center. The difference in perspective is due to camera height.





SD9 (3MP) http://www.smugmug.com/photos/33753813-O.jpg
Exp 0.0
Contrast 0.5
Shadows -0.3
Highlites 0.0
Saturation -0.2
Sharpness 0.8
X3FL 0.0

dR XT (3MP) http://www.smugmug.com/photos/33747789-O.jpg
Contrast +1, as shot
Saturation +1, as shot
Sharpness +5 (0 to 5)

SD9 (8MP) http://www.smugmug.com/photos/33758078-O.jpg
Exp 0.0
Contrast 0.5
Shadows -0.3
Highlites 0.0
Saturation -0.2
Sharpness 0.8
X3FL 0.0

dR XT (8MP) http://www.smugmug.com/photos/33747806-O.jpg
Contrast +1, as shot
Saturation +1, as shot
Sharpness +5 (0 to 5)

SD9 (3MP) http://www.smugmug.com/photos/33753821-O.jpg
Exp 0.0
Contrast 0.5
Shadows -0.3
Highlites 0.0
Saturation -0.2
Sharpness -1.0
X3FL 0.0

dR XT (8MP) http://www.smugmug.com/photos/33753828-O.jpg
Contrast +1 (as shot)
Saturation +1 as shot)
Sharpness 0 (0 to 5)

Breeze Browser (8MP) http://www.smugmug.com/photos/33750712-O.jpg
Saturation High
Sharpness High
Contrast High

8MP 100% crops:

 
A sobering example of the power of RAW file processing.

(for his own protection: it might be time to put DSG under suicide watch)

Using a tabbed browser (firefox, mozilla) its interesting to bring these images up under seperate tabs and flip back and forth.

It does seem that SD9 image is somewhat over sharpened or has it's contrast level set too high. Those yellows are, for the most part blown out, and the leaves seem to have a strange edge halo.

(this goes against your methodology, but...)

It might be interesting if you let a trusted member of this group (sorry, I'm too busy at the moment), have a crack at tweeking with the foveon raw file. Otherwise, I can hear some people here cry "Foul".

--

Peace.

========================
http://www.pbase.com/jarvic7/root

 

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