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Everybody play.... PWL Mario Spalla style..

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jim Radcliffe
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Red Face ..... wrong BILL ..... sorry Jim, I didn't see you were replying to BILL M and not BILL C ..... must be my old eyes ..... Guess My rendition goes to the garage sale junk pile after all!!
Bill C
 
DioSea said:
Way to invite someone to participate. If I were him I wouldn't
spend my tiime on this setup.

I'm getting the feeling that you have a problem with this person
(and apparently me). Quite suprised that everyone just sits there
and watches this.
Click to expand...
Dio, as an outsider just looking in on the previous post, let me say that I believe the problem is the attitude exhibited by Mario in the first place. I think his work is wonderful. And I agree that he does a better job than most of us here - but then most of us haven't mastered this. If he had left a post asking people to take a look at his gallery and comment, he would have had an entirely different reception. Instead, he posted in a way that made it look like he was pointing out the gallery of a different person, and saying it was fantastic. Then, we found out it was his gallery, which made his initial post seem a tad egotistical. Then, when CSpringer, apparently not yet making the connection, tried to help Mario by saying he could achieve the look of one of the photo's by following the PWL instructions, Mario came back with an arrogant, rude reply. Why you're defending him, as though he did nothing wrong, is curious.

I don't think Mario would participate here anyway. That wasn't his intention for posting. He wasn't here to make friends and join in.....and I'm saying that based on his posting history. If you'd look at that and try to see things our way, you might understand why some of us aren't too pleased by the whole thing.

I hope you'll stick around and participate, but if you're only going to post for the purpose of defending someone who has no intention of explaining his own behavior, then I guess this debate will never end.

I'm one of the least talented people here and just wanted to give you something to think about. ;-)

Maureen
 
This looks GREAT, Jim. Wish I could mimic what you've done, but even following your directions, I can't do it. You nailed the look, though!

Maureen
 
So, Dorcas, when are you going to share your steps with us? People keep asking, but it doesn't seem like you're interested in sharing them. ;-)

Maureen
 
I know that, in general, people on this forum tend to share their technique for achieving a certain look or style of photo manipulation. It's generally expected by the community here but, I can also understand why some, who may have spent lots of time perfecting what they do are hesitant to give away their secrets.

I had a very good friend back in North Carolina who made the absolute best Carolina Style BBQ I have ever tasted. No amount of begging and pleading would get him to share his recipe and I understood why. He had won BBQ championshiop after championship with that recipe and if he shared it.. well, he might not win as much and the "fame and fortune" that came with it.

When I see some of these incredible images, whether they be Dragan's or those of others I really don't expect them to tell me how to get the same results. Some of these people depend on their style to make a living and by sharing that technique they become less unique and possibly less in demand for the work they do.

Most of the real, pro-Photoshop Masters, can probably figure out what is being done to an image, especially if they have the raw image to work with and the finished product to shoot for. Most of us here are amateurs wanting to learn and become better with the tools at our disposal but some of the pros just have way too much time (money) invested in their style to just give it away.

I don't think less of anyone for not sharing the steps they used to achieve a remarkable image in Photoshop. And for those that do, I think we all owe them thanks for taking the time to explain and helping the rest of us become better at what we do.

I have a real fascination with Dragan's style.. it's not all consuming but I really wish I could match the level of work he produces.. but I understand why he does not post full, step by step tutorials describing how he creates those images.

Jim Radcliffe
http://www.image36.com
http://www.oceona.com
The ability to 'see' the shot is more important than the gear.
 
Very dark and industrial look to your version...decay, etc.. I think it might need to be lightened up a bit but that comes back to personal taste.

Painting with Light... my definition, is about using the dodge and burn tools, layers adjustments, partial erasure of layers, etc.. There are PWL actions available that are very good. I believe cspringer's is the one most people in this forum use.

I like to do everything by hand.. I think I have four or five actions but rarely use them... I tend to branch off in my own direction on things. Remember you can arrive at the same destination by travelling different roads.

Jim Radcliffe
http://www.image36.com
http://www.oceona.com
The ability to 'see' the shot is more important than the gear.
 
Jim, I totally agree with you. I just think if someone chooses not to share their workflow, that they come out and say so. If Dorcas chooses not to share, that's fine, I just hope that's expressed at some point, so we'll quit asking. ;-)

Maureen
 
Thank you, Jim. What I did was exactly as you described in your reply to hbrookes above, using many type of blend modes and adjustment layers. But to be more helpful to others here:

1. I started with the color. I made a blank layer over the original and set the blend to hue and 80 percent opacity. I then sampled various colors and Paint-bucketed them in until I saw something I liked. I then added a mask and selectively further reduced this color on some parts, such as the red handles.

2. For the guage dials, I found that a linear burn blend of a duped original produced the best result.

3. For the selective lightening, I made a dupe layer of the image, added a layer mask, set the blend mode to color dodge and the opacity to 20 percent (20 percent forces you to not overdo it. You can always increase it later). Invert the layer mask back and forth a dozen times and try and develop your mental image of where you want to go. You leave it on black and paint with white. You then decide whether you want multiple local light sources or one global light source. I went with the global source, therefore trying to lighten things that would be consistently exposed to it. By selectively dodging the big rivets, for example, they take on a lot of depth. Same with joints and parts.

4. Then a curves/levels adjustment layer to lighten or darken the overall image or parts of it.

As was said, it's all subjective. I already have other ideas for it that would look totally different.
Best regards, Bill
 
Bill M said:
Thank you, Jim. What I did was exactly as you described in your
reply to hbrookes above, using many type of blend modes and
adjustment layers. But to be more helpful to others here:
1. I started with the color. I made a blank layer over the
original and set the blend to hue and 80 percent opacity. I then
sampled various colors and Paint-bucketed them in until I saw
something I liked. I then added a mask and selectively further
reduced this color on some parts, such as the red handles.
Click to expand...
That's a way I did not consider.. I'll have to try that....
Bill M said:
2. For the guage dials, I found that a linear burn blend of a
duped original produced the best result.
Click to expand...
Bill M said:
3. For the selective lightening, I made a dupe layer of the image,
added a layer mask, set the blend mode to color dodge and the
opacity to 20 percent (20 percent forces you to not overdo it. You
can always increase it later). Invert the layer mask back and
forth a dozen times and try and develop your mental image of where
you want to go. You leave it on black and paint with white. You
then decide whether you want multiple local light sources or one
global light source. I went with the global source, therefore
trying to lighten things that would be consistently exposed to it.
By selectively dodging the big rivets, for example, they take on a
lot of depth. Same with joints and parts.
Click to expand...
Now if I just had some real free time today to play but.. work and all that is getting in the way again.. I really hate HAVING to work for a living.
Bill M said:
4. Then a curves/levels adjustment layer to lighten or darken the
overall image or parts of it.
As was said, it's all subjective. I already have other ideas for
it that would look totally different.
Best regards, Bill
Click to expand...
Thanks for the instructions... you're doing some things here I have not considered and I did like the look of your image.

--
Jim Radcliffe
http://www.image36.com
http://www.oceona.com
The ability to 'see' the shot is more important than the gear.
 
Yeah, the engine is HUGE.. it does appear to have a few sparks of life left in it but I doubt the boiler will ever be full again. I think it's going to cost more money than any one or any organization would want to put into it to keep it "alive".

I'm really glad you decided to stay with the forum. There's a very good group of people here and yes we can be opinonated (myself included) but as with any group of people there will be disagreements and misunderstandings... like I said, today is a new day.

Jim Radcliffe
http://www.image36.com
http://www.oceona.com
The ability to 'see' the shot is more important than the gear.
 
Jim Radcliffe said:
Kent,

yes, the blue hued version is the original. I have a ton of these
taken with various f stops, angles, etc.. They were taken some
time ago. The train is still there, I've just not been back to
shoot anymore. It's sitting on a siding in Grapevine, TX, waiting
for someone to come up with the funds to do a bit of restoration.
Click to expand...
Thanks.
Member said:
Not sure what you meant by "did he give any details.."..
Click to expand...
Your "his use of the dodge tool or burn tool is much more liberal than I would use" got me wondering if I missed a post is all and figured later that it was just your observation.
--
Kent

http://www.pbase.com/kentc
For prior discussions on most questions:
http://porg.4t.com/KentC.html
or d/l 'archives' at:
http://www.atncentral.com
 
Bill M said:
Thank you, Jim. What I did was exactly as you described in your
reply to hbrookes above, using many type of blend modes and
adjustment layers. But to be more helpful to others here:
1. I started with the color. I made a blank layer over the
original and set the blend to hue and 80 percent opacity.
Click to expand...
And old powertone trick :-) Really nice handling Bill. I like the separtion (and patina) you got on the guages/controls.

After a desaturation I did CS photo filter on a layer set to 'hue'.

--
Kent

http://www.pbase.com/kentc
For prior discussions on most questions:
http://porg.4t.com/KentC.html
or d/l 'archives' at:
http://www.atncentral.com
 
Hi Jim

Had a proper go at this and hope it is ok.

My original post highlighted the blue within the metal whereas this, I hope, emphasizes the more "antique" finish

All the best

Ray

 
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