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yellow skin tones

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I often see the yellow skin tone in photos on the web (pbase) but I did not have a single really problematic shot myself. In the beginning I had overcompensated for this, but you can err on the pink side as much as on the yellow. Most digicams make too pink flesh tones. Don't take those as a measure. Here my advice:
  • walk the streets with open eyes and look what people's complexion really is ;)
  • always stay with ISO 100.
  • use the most current version of SPP (2.2?)
  • shoot with Auto WB, correct WB in SPP (can almost always be improved)
  • choose the settings in SPP yourself (no Auto), avoid positive "fill light" if possible
  • don't expect to get good color in a hopelessly underexposed shot
Dirk
 
onemintyulep said:
  • walk the streets with open eyes and look what people's complexion
really is ;)
  • always stay with ISO 100.
  • use the most current version of SPP (2.2?)
  • shoot with Auto WB, correct WB in SPP (can almost always be
improved)
  • choose the settings in SPP yourself (no Auto), avoid positive
"fill light" if possible
  • don't expect to get good color in a hopelessly underexposed shot
Dirk
Click to expand...
it's spp 2.1.

and I would agree, agree, agree, and agree with what Dirk has to say here.

except positive fill light is OK is it's not excessive. if you have to push that and push exposure to the + side you have a underexposed shot and might as well switch it to monoWB or toss it.

just my 2 cents worth.

--
Chunsum.

http://photography.chunsum.com
http://www.pbase.com/chunsum
http://www.pbase.com/sigmasd9
http://www.foveonx3.org
 
thanks.....
99% of the time I'm shooting ISO 100

but I am shooting with the "shade" WB I will try to adjust that according to your advice.

The only version of SPP that I see on Sigma's site is 2.1 is ther another repository for 2.2?
the plug-in/action? anybody know?
Marty
 
There's no SPP 2.2 ... yet

As far as correcting with Photoshop, you can set up your own action to adjust the hue in the yellows and decrease saturation a little....

Open a picture where you notice the yellow cast... start recording your action... Go to hue/saturation, and select "yellow" from the drop down (instead of master), adjust the hue slider to the red side just a little, and then decrease the saturation maybe by 5, until you're happy with the results. Hit ok, stop recording your action, give it a shortcut F key if you want, and then you've got an easy basic action to get rid of the yellow. Sometimes it might make faces look TOO red, so you can always undo and manually adjust it again.

--

Chris Austin
Photography and web design
http://www.chrisaustin.us
 
Aren't there some color correction PS actions around?
Chris Austin said:
There's no SPP 2.2 ... yet

As far as correcting with Photoshop, you can set up your own action
to adjust the hue in the yellows and decrease saturation a
little....

Open a picture where you notice the yellow cast... start recording
your action... Go to hue/saturation, and select "yellow" from the
drop down (instead of master), adjust the hue slider to the red
side just a little, and then decrease the saturation maybe by 5,
until you're happy with the results. Hit ok, stop recording your
action, give it a shortcut F key if you want, and then you've got
an easy basic action to get rid of the yellow. Sometimes it might
make faces look TOO red, so you can always undo and manually adjust
it again.

--

Chris Austin
Photography and web design
http://www.chrisaustin.us
Click to expand...
--
Pbase - http://www.pbase.com/sigmasd9/
 
I started with Gier's color fix. It used to be on the foveon.org site. That's a good basic, quick fix, but after a bit of use you might want to set up your own with some slight adjustments.

As others have stated, good exposure and white balance takes care of the problem for the most part, but the only time I really see it consistantly on is with my studio shots with ABs. I rarely shoot weddings when I'm not doing slight color corrections to a fair amount of the pictures, but that should be expected of any camera. Orange tint for the Canons, etc.
 
I still have a copy of the sd9 skin touch action that was listed a long while back. if you want a copy i can email it to you.
--
SD-9 and SD10
350XT
 
David Hughes said:
Can you post it to http://www.foveonx3.org? In the Files area?

When I moved the site to a new server, some things were not
migrated, sigh. Or, can you email attach to me and I will post it?

tx, david
Click to expand...
Hi David,

I wrote one a while back, you're welcome to it if you want to give it a try. By the way, did you get my email with the coordinates of the bristlecone pines in RMNP and Mt. Evans??

Best regards,

Lin
 
I don't have a plug-in, but I did write a PhotoShop action which I use for this if you want to try it...

Lin
 
SPP settings for these shots are identical, including WB. Taken 2 minutes apart. The difference is also apparent in the viewfinder:

Sigma 15-30 EX:



Canon EF 28-135:

 
heybabyhey said:
SPP settings for these shots are identical, including WB. Taken 2
minutes apart. The difference is also apparent in the viewfinder:

Sigma 15-30 EX:



Canon EF 28-135:

Click to expand...
That's only part of the issue. The SPP conversion software also has a bug which shifts the color tones toward yellow. Pull up an X3 portrait capture and observe the skin color before clicking on any of the three conversion choices. Now watch carefully as the conversion happens. The skin tones will shift toward yellow. This does not happen with PhotoShop's Adobe RAW. There is a bug in the SPP conversion....

Lin
 
Yes and yes on both counts. I am remiss on responding to the Bristlecone pines. We lost a kitty when your missive came in. Been distracted. Interesting time too. Was talking with a close friend and we were scheming a photo tour for a couple to three weeks, north, in your area, towards Walden and north, into Wyoming... along the border. This might work... the Bristleconeys as I call them.

And yes yes yes... if you could throw it into the files area of http://www.foveonx3.org , that would be great. If no go, can you email attach it to me?

david
Lin Evans said:
David Hughes said:
Can you post it to http://www.foveonx3.org? In the Files area?

When I moved the site to a new server, some things were not
migrated, sigh. Or, can you email attach to me and I will post it?

tx, david
Click to expand...
Hi David,

I wrote one a while back, you're welcome to it if you want to give
it a try. By the way, did you get my email with the coordinates of
the bristlecone pines in RMNP and Mt. Evans??

Best regards,

Lin
Click to expand...
--
Pbase - http://www.pbase.com/sigmasd9/
 
Lin Evans said:
heybabyhey said:
SPP settings for these shots are identical, including WB. Taken 2
minutes apart. The difference is also apparent in the viewfinder:

Sigma 15-30 EX:



Canon EF 28-135:

Click to expand...
That's only part of the issue. The SPP conversion software also has
a bug which shifts the color tones toward yellow. Pull up an X3
portrait capture and observe the skin color before clicking on any
of the three conversion choices. Now watch carefully as the
conversion happens. The skin tones will shift toward yellow. This
does not happen with PhotoShop's Adobe RAW. There is a bug in the
SPP conversion....
Click to expand...
I agree with you that the SPP WB plucker doesn't produce good results, and the auto adjust mode is bad enough that I don't use it, but overall color and WB are super.

The majority of the problem is attributable to Sigmas lens line. It is unrealistic to expect SPP to fully correct a yellow cast like the one shown above. Using diamond grading as a reference ( http://www.bluenile.com/diamond_color.asp ), I would rate my lens bag about like this:

Sigma
105 EX = G
50 EX = H
24-70 f/2.8 = K
24-70 f3.5 = M
70-300 kit = M
15-30 = O

Canon
28-135 = D
50 f/1.4 = D
70-200 f/2.8L = E
24-70 f/2.8L = E
300 f/4L = F
85 f/1.2L= F
35 f/2 = G
50 f/1.8 Mk1 = J

It's evident in the viewfinder, no RAW converter required.
 
Steve,

somehow I find it difficult to believe, that this colorcast is produced by the Sigma lense.

Here is your Sigma Image again, this time with a quick and dirty color correction applied to it:



Looks pretty much like your canon-pic to me:



The yellow cast in your pic is simply a WB-issue, that you -if you will excuse me- somehow produce to advertise your conversion-business IMO.

Maybe the Sigma lenses are slightly more yellow than the canons, but most definately not that much.

--
--
Cheers
Günter

SD10-images website:
http://www.pbase.com/ghoerdt

Panorama website:
http://www.pbase.com/ghoerdt/panorama
 
I recently shot my own wedding and found a lot of yellow skin tones, easy to fix in SPP just set the white balance to Sunlight instead of Auto and all my photos look much better. It's a software problem in my opinion.

Just my two cents worth. :o)
 
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