G1 Focus Hocus Part 2: Conclusion

I agree with your conclusions. But I'm puzzled as to why you feel
it's important for the test object to be raised above the sheet.
Peter,

I'm sorry, I should have given Michael a reason.

I suspect, in his Picture 8, that, somehow, his camera's centre focus area is focusing on the paper(?) background and not the #sign specifically. I don't know why, because the background is very low contrast. If Michael could redo the test with the object raised it would confirm or disprove my suspicion.

Perhaps the focus assist lamp came into play here and did hit the #sign. There is a fair degree of parallax error when you get in close. I don't know how close Picture 8 was shot.

Do you have any theories why the #sign came out focused in Picture 8? I don't buy the theory that "the focusing is based on a central area" but if it can't focus within that area, it "goes looking outside that central area".

That seems a bit bizarre, but then again, I'm not an engineer!

Doug
 
Do you have any theories why the #sign came out focused in Picture
8? I don't buy the theory that "the focusing is based on a central
area" but if it can't focus within that area, it "goes looking
outside that central area".
All these discussions wouldn't be necessary if the G1 indicated focus confirmation like most other cameras.

A camera is always in focus at some distance. And the G1 has huge depth of field. I suspect this shot was not done in macro mode.

The best way to do a test like this is to minimize depth of field. That means macro mode, maximum focal length, f2.5 and minum lens to subject distance possible.
 
Picture 8 proves nothing except that the camera accidentally focused on the same plane as the paper. That's it. Put your cross hatch on a different plane, closer to the lens and re-do your test. You will find that the camer will not focus on it, but will most likely 'go long'.

I looked at your cake pics for some time and still disagree with your conclusions. Check out http://users.rcn.com/tbackher/ to see a better, more consistant way to prove/disprove your edge of frame focus claim. You could even reverse the test. Make the center target closer than the edge target and see what happens. In fact, I will put together an elaborate test using three layers of targets today. I do believe that my test disproves your claim if edge of frame focus lock. I'm not being critical, simply trying to arrive at the truth whatever it may be.

Your method does not prove whether the camera 'intentionally' focused on the wall, or did so accidentally. According to my theory, that is where it would focus anyway, on focus lock failure. My test, using a blank piece of paper with a crosshatch around the edges of the frame, proves the camera ignored the edges of the frame, when it failed to focus on the paper. Proves it. Tell my if you think it does not, and why.

Spot metering in M mode would be pointless. You have taken over the 'metering' functions and are setting shutter speed and aperature yourslef. Metering is used to set one or both of these automatically, so it would be a waste of time. My guess is NO metering takes place in M mode, spot or center weighted. What would be the purpose?
First off, I don't mean to be redundant in creating this new
thread; I just though this info is so helpful to G1 users that it
shouldn't get lost in the long, long original thread.

From part 1, looks like there is no dispute that position matters,
as illustrated by the original 5 pictures of the cake I posted.

Then the debate is whether the entire frame or just the center is
used by the camera for focusing. To clear this unsettling question
I added 3 more shots to the test, please take a look.

http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=25101888103&n=569919155

Picture 8 (# sign on paper) clearly indicates that the G1 will
evaluate the entire frame and will focus on the corner if
sufficient contrast cannot be found elsewhere. Any disgreement?

Picture 6, the cake is VERY near edge causing my G1 to shift focus
to the wall. Like Bob W. noticed, the G1 actualy focuses on the
wall texture and not just arbitrarily throws long -- it's darn
sensitive!

Picture 7, the cake is also near edge but closer to center than in
pic 6, and now my G1 shifts focus back on the cake.

Evidently both the cake and the wall texture provide adequate
contrast. The cake has more contrast but is at edge, the wall
texture has less contrast but covers the center. Combining this
information with what we saw in the original 5 pictures, it is so
clear to me that the G1 indeed scans the entire frame, but it also
gives more weight to subjects which are closer to the center and/or
more contrasty. This behavior can be quite properly called
"Center-Weighed" focusing after all. The Canon Rep who talked to
Don T is correct (my personal conclusion); whether he realy knows
or just got lucky is irrelevant.

If I design an autofocus system, I probably would do the same
thing. In otherwords, the autofocus scheme is very good in my
opinion -- if you know how it works. The main problem is that Canon
does not provide adequate documentation, leading to the massive
confusion when your G1 fails to focus on the object you want it to.

One thing bothers me though: there is no spot focus in M mode!

--
Michael
 
Spot metering in M mode would be pointless. You have taken over
the 'metering' functions and are setting shutter speed and
aperature yourslef. Metering is used to set one or both of these
automatically, so it would be a waste of time. My guess is NO
metering takes place in M mode, spot or center weighted. What
would be the purpose?
Metering is NOT used to set shutter speed and aperture automatically. It is used to determine exposure. Any camera I've ever seen with spot metering has it available in manual mode. It doesn't set the exposure. It uses a scale like in exposure compensation to let you know how close the settings are from a correct exposure.
 
Hi Peter. I did what you suggested and found a twist to this :-)

You're right about spot focus, there is no such thing. All of my previous tests were done with Center-Weigh metering. I did the test you suggested using both metering modes and get the same behavior regardless.

At full tele the X test shows that my G1 can only focus if some of the X is within a center area about 1/2 of the screen each way. At full wide, however, it has no problem focusing near the edge (confirming my #8 picture). Perhaps Canon engineers anticipated tele is used more for portrait and wide is used more for landscape, hence the different behavior. Whatever the reason, this disparity is a lot easier to live with than that infamous "wide-angle mistiming".

If no more disgreement I'll close my test lab and go take some more pictures now!!!

Michael
Picture 8 (# sign on paper) clearly indicates that the G1 will
evaluate the entire frame and will focus on the corner if
sufficient contrast cannot be found elsewhere. Any disgreement?
I disagree. :)

You can easily do a test to see where the camera looks for
contrast. Take a sheet of blank white paper. Cut out a 1/2" square
from one of the corners. Mark a bold X on the square and then lay
it in the middle of the sheet of paper.

Put the camera in macro mode and zoom in on the X until you can see
it clearly and the entire image consists of only the sheet of
paper. Turn on spot metering to easily determine the center of the
image and center the X there.

You don't have to take any pictures. Gradually move the X in one
direction and see if you can focus on it using the LCD. It helps to
use a tripod if you have one. Do this several times starting with
the X in the center of the image and moving it in different
directions and you will see where the camera is looking for focus.
One thing bothers me though: there is no spot focus in M mode!
There is no spot focus in any mode. Using the above test, nudge
your target until it is just out of focus in spot metering mode.
Then turn off spot metering and autofocus. It will still be out of
focus. This must be done with a tripod to make sure the camera
doesn't move.
 
Peter T wrote:
Metering is NOT used to set shutter speed and aperture
automatically. It is used to determine exposure.
In the case of the G1, this works out to be the same thing. Once metering is completed, the exposure is set, and a simple push of the shutter will focus and execute the shot at the shutter speed and apeture determined by the metering. Or, am I misunderstanding what you are trying to say.
nahau
 
What do you think exposure IS? Shutter speed vs aperature. If ISO is fixed, then the only thing that determines exposure is aperature and shutter speed. The meter determines the amount of light coming in and then the camera program sets a combination of shutter speed and aperature to get the best exposure based on what the meter sees. Thus metering is used to set shutter speed and aperature and is useless in manual mode, when YOU become the meter.
Spot metering in M mode would be pointless. You have taken over
the 'metering' functions and are setting shutter speed and
aperature yourslef. Metering is used to set one or both of these
automatically, so it would be a waste of time. My guess is NO
metering takes place in M mode, spot or center weighted. What
would be the purpose?
Metering is NOT used to set shutter speed and aperture
automatically. It is used to determine exposure. Any camera I've
ever seen with spot metering has it available in manual mode. It
doesn't set the exposure. It uses a scale like in exposure
compensation to let you know how close the settings are from a
correct exposure.
 
Try this: In manual mode, set shutter speed to 1/1000, set aperature to f8 and take a picture of a dark object, filling the frame. Very underexposed is what you get. The camera does NO metering in manual mode, as it did not complain one bit about the exposure I set up this way. No blining lights, no flashing shutter speed indicator or aperature indicator. The camera says "whatever you say goes".

That is why you cannot set spot metering in manual mode. You would be contradicting yourself if you could. However, it would be nice to have that frame there anyway, to help indicate the focus zone accurately, in the LCD.
Spot metering in M mode would be pointless. You have taken over
the 'metering' functions and are setting shutter speed and
aperature yourslef. Metering is used to set one or both of these
automatically, so it would be a waste of time. My guess is NO
metering takes place in M mode, spot or center weighted. What
would be the purpose?
Metering is NOT used to set shutter speed and aperture
automatically. It is used to determine exposure. Any camera I've
ever seen with spot metering has it available in manual mode. It
doesn't set the exposure. It uses a scale like in exposure
compensation to let you know how close the settings are from a
correct exposure.
 
Well Well, surprise surprise.. there is NO shortage of opinion on this subject. Somes say yes there is spot focusing, others say no way. I tend to say no.

But since there are so many people having trouble focusing, parircularly with macros (thank god they are not my major area of interest).. there simply must be an easier way to set focus properly than many have discovered... or Canon would never have sold so many G1. I think I'm lucky because i just havent had that many way out of focus... but I'm not overly picky either. her's a shot of some butterflies. Is this in our out of focus to most of you? I'm curious.



steve D
First off, I don't mean to be redundant in creating this new
thread; I just though this info is so helpful to G1 users that it
shouldn't get lost in the long, long original thread.

From part 1, looks like there is no dispute that position matters,
as illustrated by the original 5 pictures of the cake I posted.

Then the debate is whether the entire frame or just the center is
used by the camera for focusing. To clear this unsettling question
I added 3 more shots to the test, please take a look.

http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=25101888103&n=569919155

Picture 8 (# sign on paper) clearly indicates that the G1 will
evaluate the entire frame and will focus on the corner if
sufficient contrast cannot be found elsewhere. Any disgreement?

Picture 6, the cake is VERY near edge causing my G1 to shift focus
to the wall. Like Bob W. noticed, the G1 actualy focuses on the
wall texture and not just arbitrarily throws long -- it's darn
sensitive!

Picture 7, the cake is also near edge but closer to center than in
pic 6, and now my G1 shifts focus back on the cake.

Evidently both the cake and the wall texture provide adequate
contrast. The cake has more contrast but is at edge, the wall
texture has less contrast but covers the center. Combining this
information with what we saw in the original 5 pictures, it is so
clear to me that the G1 indeed scans the entire frame, but it also
gives more weight to subjects which are closer to the center and/or
more contrasty. This behavior can be quite properly called
"Center-Weighed" focusing after all. The Canon Rep who talked to
Don T is correct (my personal conclusion); whether he realy knows
or just got lucky is irrelevant.

If I design an autofocus system, I probably would do the same
thing. In otherwords, the autofocus scheme is very good in my
opinion -- if you know how it works. The main problem is that Canon
does not provide adequate documentation, leading to the massive
confusion when your G1 fails to focus on the object you want it to.

One thing bothers me though: there is no spot focus in M mode!

--
Michael
 
Its out of focus since I can't view the photo;-)
nahau
But since there are so many people having trouble focusing,
parircularly with macros (thank god they are not my major area of
interest).. there simply must be an easier way to set focus
properly than many have discovered... or Canon would never have
sold so many G1. I think I'm lucky because i just havent had that
many way out of focus... but I'm not overly picky either. her's a
shot of some butterflies. Is this in our out of focus to most of
you? I'm curious.



steve D
First off, I don't mean to be redundant in creating this new
thread; I just though this info is so helpful to G1 users that it
shouldn't get lost in the long, long original thread.

From part 1, looks like there is no dispute that position matters,
as illustrated by the original 5 pictures of the cake I posted.

Then the debate is whether the entire frame or just the center is
used by the camera for focusing. To clear this unsettling question
I added 3 more shots to the test, please take a look.

http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=25101888103&n=569919155

Picture 8 (# sign on paper) clearly indicates that the G1 will
evaluate the entire frame and will focus on the corner if
sufficient contrast cannot be found elsewhere. Any disgreement?

Picture 6, the cake is VERY near edge causing my G1 to shift focus
to the wall. Like Bob W. noticed, the G1 actualy focuses on the
wall texture and not just arbitrarily throws long -- it's darn
sensitive!

Picture 7, the cake is also near edge but closer to center than in
pic 6, and now my G1 shifts focus back on the cake.

Evidently both the cake and the wall texture provide adequate
contrast. The cake has more contrast but is at edge, the wall
texture has less contrast but covers the center. Combining this
information with what we saw in the original 5 pictures, it is so
clear to me that the G1 indeed scans the entire frame, but it also
gives more weight to subjects which are closer to the center and/or
more contrasty. This behavior can be quite properly called
"Center-Weighed" focusing after all. The Canon Rep who talked to
Don T is correct (my personal conclusion); whether he realy knows
or just got lucky is irrelevant.

If I design an autofocus system, I probably would do the same
thing. In otherwords, the autofocus scheme is very good in my
opinion -- if you know how it works. The main problem is that Canon
does not provide adequate documentation, leading to the massive
confusion when your G1 fails to focus on the object you want it to.

One thing bothers me though: there is no spot focus in M mode!

--
Michael
 
One more try. it isnt posting, I may ahve to try the album.


But since there are so many people having trouble focusing,
parircularly with macros (thank god they are not my major area of
interest).. there simply must be an easier way to set focus
properly than many have discovered... or Canon would never have
sold so many G1. I think I'm lucky because i just havent had that
many way out of focus... but I'm not overly picky either. her's a
shot of some butterflies. Is this in our out of focus to most of
you? I'm curious.



steve D
First off, I don't mean to be redundant in creating this new
thread; I just though this info is so helpful to G1 users that it
shouldn't get lost in the long, long original thread.

From part 1, looks like there is no dispute that position matters,
as illustrated by the original 5 pictures of the cake I posted.

Then the debate is whether the entire frame or just the center is
used by the camera for focusing. To clear this unsettling question
I added 3 more shots to the test, please take a look.

http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=25101888103&n=569919155

Picture 8 (# sign on paper) clearly indicates that the G1 will
evaluate the entire frame and will focus on the corner if
sufficient contrast cannot be found elsewhere. Any disgreement?

Picture 6, the cake is VERY near edge causing my G1 to shift focus
to the wall. Like Bob W. noticed, the G1 actualy focuses on the
wall texture and not just arbitrarily throws long -- it's darn
sensitive!

Picture 7, the cake is also near edge but closer to center than in
pic 6, and now my G1 shifts focus back on the cake.

Evidently both the cake and the wall texture provide adequate
contrast. The cake has more contrast but is at edge, the wall
texture has less contrast but covers the center. Combining this
information with what we saw in the original 5 pictures, it is so
clear to me that the G1 indeed scans the entire frame, but it also
gives more weight to subjects which are closer to the center and/or
more contrasty. This behavior can be quite properly called
"Center-Weighed" focusing after all. The Canon Rep who talked to
Don T is correct (my personal conclusion); whether he realy knows
or just got lucky is irrelevant.

If I design an autofocus system, I probably would do the same
thing. In otherwords, the autofocus scheme is very good in my
opinion -- if you know how it works. The main problem is that Canon
does not provide adequate documentation, leading to the massive
confusion when your G1 fails to focus on the object you want it to.

One thing bothers me though: there is no spot focus in M mode!

--
Michael
 
In the case of the G1, this works out to be the same thing. Once
metering is completed, the exposure is set, and a simple push of
the shutter will focus and execute the shot at the shutter speed
and apeture determined by the metering. Or, am I misunderstanding
what you are trying to say.
All the various modes except manual combine two steps: determining and setting exposure.

My point is that the G1 is the only camera I know of with manual mode that doesn't provide metering in that mode.
 
You guys are fast, just taking my time replying to Peter's post and when I'm done there are already another dozen messages!

Let's take the easy one first... of course there is no purpose for spot metering in manual mode. I said this because earlier I though that spot metering also triggers "spot focus" -- but as in my reply to Peter I now acknowledge that there is no spot focusing in any mode.

The pictures themselves some times are not conclusive evidence to focusing, I admit. But gauging the behavior of the camera's behavior at the time tells me something. When the camera has problem focusing it'll make two buz sound before beeping, then if it gets lucky it'll focus on the X and if not lucky it won't. Peter's X test, full wide, my G1 has no problem locking focus in one buz; but in telle it always buz twice and then lock (after that the X may or may not look focused depending on luck).

My G1 had two-buz hesitation while taking any of the 8 pictures I posted. Picture #8 is the only one in macro. A more elaborate test as you describe will take the "luck" factor out, but I doubt
Your method does not prove whether the camera 'intentionally'
focused on the wall, or did so accidentally. According to my
theory, that is where it would focus anyway, on focus lock
failure. My test, using a blank piece of paper with a crosshatch
around the edges of the frame, proves the camera ignored the edges
of the frame, when it failed to focus on the paper. Proves it.
Tell my if you think it does not, and why.

Spot metering in M mode would be pointless. You have taken over
the 'metering' functions and are setting shutter speed and
aperature yourslef. Metering is used to set one or both of these
automatically, so it would be a waste of time. My guess is NO
metering takes place in M mode, spot or center weighted. What
would be the purpose?
First off, I don't mean to be redundant in creating this new
thread; I just though this info is so helpful to G1 users that it
shouldn't get lost in the long, long original thread.

From part 1, looks like there is no dispute that position matters,
as illustrated by the original 5 pictures of the cake I posted.

Then the debate is whether the entire frame or just the center is
used by the camera for focusing. To clear this unsettling question
I added 3 more shots to the test, please take a look.

http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=25101888103&n=569919155

Picture 8 (# sign on paper) clearly indicates that the G1 will
evaluate the entire frame and will focus on the corner if
sufficient contrast cannot be found elsewhere. Any disgreement?

Picture 6, the cake is VERY near edge causing my G1 to shift focus
to the wall. Like Bob W. noticed, the G1 actualy focuses on the
wall texture and not just arbitrarily throws long -- it's darn
sensitive!

Picture 7, the cake is also near edge but closer to center than in
pic 6, and now my G1 shifts focus back on the cake.

Evidently both the cake and the wall texture provide adequate
contrast. The cake has more contrast but is at edge, the wall
texture has less contrast but covers the center. Combining this
information with what we saw in the original 5 pictures, it is so
clear to me that the G1 indeed scans the entire frame, but it also
gives more weight to subjects which are closer to the center and/or
more contrasty. This behavior can be quite properly called
"Center-Weighed" focusing after all. The Canon Rep who talked to
Don T is correct (my personal conclusion); whether he realy knows
or just got lucky is irrelevant.

If I design an autofocus system, I probably would do the same
thing. In otherwords, the autofocus scheme is very good in my
opinion -- if you know how it works. The main problem is that Canon
does not provide adequate documentation, leading to the massive
confusion when your G1 fails to focus on the object you want it to.

One thing bothers me though: there is no spot focus in M mode!

--
Michael
 
I'm making a distinction between determining and setting exposure. Go to a camera store that sells film cameras. Ask them how cameras they have with manual mode that don't provide metering in that mode.
 
Since AV and TV mode will retain the same values you have set for M mode, you can switch to either and meter from there. I know it's a longer route, but the only option available.
nahau
In the case of the G1, this works out to be the same thing. Once
metering is completed, the exposure is set, and a simple push of
the shutter will focus and execute the shot at the shutter speed
and apeture determined by the metering. Or, am I misunderstanding
what you are trying to say.
All the various modes except manual combine two steps: determining
and setting exposure.

My point is that the G1 is the only camera I know of with manual
mode that doesn't provide metering in that mode.
 
I'll have to try to figure out why a single photo link from my album isnt posting properly.

Nahau.. funny line..

here is the album. The picture I'm speaking of is the second.. butterflies.. on the Home page. it looks good to me, as i say.. I may be far less demanding than some.

http://goin480.tripod.com/stevesphotos/

steve

But since there are so many people having trouble focusing,
parircularly with macros (thank god they are not my major area of
interest).. there simply must be an easier way to set focus
properly than many have discovered... or Canon would never have
sold so many G1. I think I'm lucky because i just havent had that
many way out of focus... but I'm not overly picky either. her's a
shot of some butterflies. Is this in our out of focus to most of
you? I'm curious.



steve D
First off, I don't mean to be redundant in creating this new
thread; I just though this info is so helpful to G1 users that it
shouldn't get lost in the long, long original thread.

From part 1, looks like there is no dispute that position matters,
as illustrated by the original 5 pictures of the cake I posted.

Then the debate is whether the entire frame or just the center is
used by the camera for focusing. To clear this unsettling question
I added 3 more shots to the test, please take a look.

http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=25101888103&n=569919155

Picture 8 (# sign on paper) clearly indicates that the G1 will
evaluate the entire frame and will focus on the corner if
sufficient contrast cannot be found elsewhere. Any disgreement?

Picture 6, the cake is VERY near edge causing my G1 to shift focus
to the wall. Like Bob W. noticed, the G1 actualy focuses on the
wall texture and not just arbitrarily throws long -- it's darn
sensitive!

Picture 7, the cake is also near edge but closer to center than in
pic 6, and now my G1 shifts focus back on the cake.

Evidently both the cake and the wall texture provide adequate
contrast. The cake has more contrast but is at edge, the wall
texture has less contrast but covers the center. Combining this
information with what we saw in the original 5 pictures, it is so
clear to me that the G1 indeed scans the entire frame, but it also
gives more weight to subjects which are closer to the center and/or
more contrasty. This behavior can be quite properly called
"Center-Weighed" focusing after all. The Canon Rep who talked to
Don T is correct (my personal conclusion); whether he realy knows
or just got lucky is irrelevant.

If I design an autofocus system, I probably would do the same
thing. In otherwords, the autofocus scheme is very good in my
opinion -- if you know how it works. The main problem is that Canon
does not provide adequate documentation, leading to the massive
confusion when your G1 fails to focus on the object you want it to.

One thing bothers me though: there is no spot focus in M mode!

--
Michael
 
At full tele the X test shows that my G1 can only focus if some of
the X is within a center area about 1/2 of the screen each way. At
full wide, however, it has no problem focusing near the edge
(confirming my #8 picture). Perhaps Canon engineers anticipated
tele is used more for portrait and wide is used more for landscape,
hence the different behavior. Whatever the reason, this disparity
is a lot easier to live with than that infamous "wide-angle
mistiming".
One slight point. :)

Wide angle focusing near the edge has nothing to do with Canon engineers and everything to do with depth of field. You are increasing the depth of field.
 
Hi Steve,

My opinion is that the camera missed focus on the butterfly... assuming of course, it was the "target"... which is probably obvious since it is center frame. Not a really bad shot, but soft looking to me. But hey... whatever works for you!:-)
nahau
Steve D wrote:
Nahau.. funny line..
I couldn't resist!LOL!!
 
Correction: My G1 did NOT have 2-buz hesitation on any of the 8 picture!
Let's take the easy one first... of course there is no purpose for
spot metering in manual mode. I said this because earlier I though
that spot metering also triggers "spot focus" -- but as in my reply
to Peter I now acknowledge that there is no spot focusing in any
mode.

The pictures themselves some times are not conclusive evidence to
focusing, I admit. But gauging the behavior of the camera's
behavior at the time tells me something. When the camera has
problem focusing it'll make two buz sound before beeping, then if
it gets lucky it'll focus on the X and if not lucky it won't.
Peter's X test, full wide, my G1 has no problem locking focus in
one buz; but in telle it always buz twice and then lock (after that
the X may or may not look focused depending on luck).

My G1 had two-buz hesitation while taking any of the 8 pictures I
posted. Picture #8 is the only one in macro. A more elaborate
test as you describe will take the "luck" factor out, but I doubt
Your method does not prove whether the camera 'intentionally'
focused on the wall, or did so accidentally. According to my
theory, that is where it would focus anyway, on focus lock
failure. My test, using a blank piece of paper with a crosshatch
around the edges of the frame, proves the camera ignored the edges
of the frame, when it failed to focus on the paper. Proves it.
Tell my if you think it does not, and why.

Spot metering in M mode would be pointless. You have taken over
the 'metering' functions and are setting shutter speed and
aperature yourslef. Metering is used to set one or both of these
automatically, so it would be a waste of time. My guess is NO
metering takes place in M mode, spot or center weighted. What
would be the purpose?
First off, I don't mean to be redundant in creating this new
thread; I just though this info is so helpful to G1 users that it
shouldn't get lost in the long, long original thread.

From part 1, looks like there is no dispute that position matters,
as illustrated by the original 5 pictures of the cake I posted.

Then the debate is whether the entire frame or just the center is
used by the camera for focusing. To clear this unsettling question
I added 3 more shots to the test, please take a look.

http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=25101888103&n=569919155

Picture 8 (# sign on paper) clearly indicates that the G1 will
evaluate the entire frame and will focus on the corner if
sufficient contrast cannot be found elsewhere. Any disgreement?

Picture 6, the cake is VERY near edge causing my G1 to shift focus
to the wall. Like Bob W. noticed, the G1 actualy focuses on the
wall texture and not just arbitrarily throws long -- it's darn
sensitive!

Picture 7, the cake is also near edge but closer to center than in
pic 6, and now my G1 shifts focus back on the cake.

Evidently both the cake and the wall texture provide adequate
contrast. The cake has more contrast but is at edge, the wall
texture has less contrast but covers the center. Combining this
information with what we saw in the original 5 pictures, it is so
clear to me that the G1 indeed scans the entire frame, but it also
gives more weight to subjects which are closer to the center and/or
more contrasty. This behavior can be quite properly called
"Center-Weighed" focusing after all. The Canon Rep who talked to
Don T is correct (my personal conclusion); whether he realy knows
or just got lucky is irrelevant.

If I design an autofocus system, I probably would do the same
thing. In otherwords, the autofocus scheme is very good in my
opinion -- if you know how it works. The main problem is that Canon
does not provide adequate documentation, leading to the massive
confusion when your G1 fails to focus on the object you want it to.

One thing bothers me though: there is no spot focus in M mode!

--
Michael
 
To elaborate on my previous point. The big problem is that the camera doesn't tell you if focus is confirmed. In macro mode if it can't find focus it sets the lens somewhere and that somewhere seems to always be within the 2 ft macro range. And if you are wide-angle you have greater depth of field. So it is just an illusion that the camera found focus.
 

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