Nikon 5000 vs Nikon 5400

tyoung said:

The main thing is to just keep an eye on the conditions that you're
shooting under and adjust the exposure compensation accordingly.
Lowering the contrast in-camera will help but it does have the side
effect of lowering the EV somewhat as well. As a result, many
users use a setting of Contrast = "-" and then set the EV
compensation to + 0.3 as their default, but if there is a lot of
scene contrast and/or bright areas, then begin lowering the EV
compensation value until any blown highlights are at a minimum.

--
Tom Young FCAS member
http://www.pbase.com/tyoung/

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rustedborg said:

There are a number of solutions that Nikon coolpix shooters use to
minimize blown highlights, most of which involve adjusting the
in-camera contrast, sharpening, and saturation ... as well as
adjusting the EV compensation from time to time.

I set my 5k to:

Less contrast
Moderate Saturation
Low sharpening

Lowering sharpening is more about helping reduce ISO noise and jpeg
compression artifacts, but lowering sharpening does help prevent
blown highlights around some edges.

Lowering contrast is the biggest help to preventing blown
highlights. Lowering saturation also helps this a little AND helps
produce more film-like colors IMHO.

In addition to making these settings my standard settings, I always
review my photos using the histogram view via quick view on the
camera. Nikons do a great job by making blown highlights "blink"
on the histogram view, so you know if you need to reshoot
something. That said, experience has taught me to automatically
lower my EV to -0.3 or -0.7 in certain environments (like outside
on a bright day on the beach).

I usually use matrix metering ... though sometimes I'll switch to
spot metering and meter for either the highlights or something just
a little darker than the highlights so that I don't blow the
highlights. I a worst-case scenario I'd rather underexpose the
shadows than overexpose the highlights. You can rescue shadow
details (to a certain degree), but blown highlights are tough.

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davephdv said:

I replaced my 5000 with an 8400. Where the 8400 is better. Shutter
lag, autofocus, especially in low light, the EVF, which is much
better than the optical viewfinder on the 5000, wider lens. Image
quality is better if you keep the ISO to 100 or 50. The controls
and menu are better. If you print larger than 81/2 x 11 you get
better pics with the 8400 and it's more MPs.

The 5000 is better for macro as you can only use macro on the 8400
through the widest 3rd of the focal length.

The accessory wide angle lens for the 5000 is great but the
accessory wide angle lens for the 8400 is even better.

Basically I put my 5000 on the bench when I got my D100 due to the
poor viewfinder and poor autofocus/shutterlag. The 8400 I often
take on trips instead of my dSLR as it works so well. The wider
lens (24 vs. 28) is also an important factor in why I like the 8400
better.
--
http://homepage.mac.com/daveburroughs/Menu15.html

Beat Army!

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