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**Challenge 79 part 2 Dark Side Of The Moon**

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Title: You raise the blade, You make the change
http://www.pbase.com/ctfchallenge/image/42282216

I am not much of a post-processing person, but I love this sort of harsh contrasty shots and think the mood of the photo suits PF's music too.

some of you have asked what did i do to get the effect so here are the steps i "generally" follow. I am sure there will be some other methods but I feel comfortable with "Curve" so use.
  • Use low f-stop (shallow dof) and keep facial hair sharp in focus.
  • RGB decompose
  • Use only Red channel to minimize skin blemishes
(this might vary depending your skin tone though).
  • Most imp step: Clip out bottom (darker) quarter and top (lighter) third part in the Curve.
Basically, pull top third part to the maximum and push bottom quarter part of the curve to the minimum for the harsh contrast.
This will blow out the skin and make individual hair stand out on the face.
Contrast slider wont give you the effect you want in most of the cases.
  • The razor was blue, so I layered the Blue channel in only for the razor with layer mask.
  • I think, I added some parts around the left eye from the Green channel too.
  • Now apply USM to the photo according to your taste. You will need a lot. I dont remember the settings but I adjusted curves/contrast and USM repeatedly a couple of times.
  • Remember to keep the Radius small, Amount higher and Threshold Zero in USM settings.
  • Applied really dark Sepia layer with about 10% opacity using "Overlay"
  • If the OOF parts of the image are too grainy after applying tons of USM, you will need to add multiple blurred layers with gradient layer mask on the final image for the smoothness of OOF parts. In this shot, one for each blurred corners.
  • Clone/dodge/burn/smudge etc to clean up the final image.
Hope this helps.

Here is another example...
http://www.pbase.com/ctfchallenge/image/41358884

'Abstract'
http://www.abstract.photoshare.co.nz
 
Very cool, congrats!! It's nice to know that we are competing (in a good sense) with good photographers. I'm for one is learning a lot from you guys. Congrats again.
 
i always prefer the b&w in this kind of moody shots...how about this version?

as this is a very personal shot, i hope you dont mind me post-processing it. i will delete it soon. its hardly 4-5 minutes of post-processing but i am sure a bit of fine-tuning will remove all the added sharpening noise in the shot.



'Abstract'
http://www.abstract.photoshare.co.nz
Nugar said:
Hi Techo,

As per your suggestion, I've uploaded a B/W version of my "Dad"
photo to the exhibition gallery.

Hope you like it.

Best regards,

--
Humberto Olarte Cupas
http://nugar.com/
http://panamarts.com/
Click to expand...
 
I was checking the photos in eligible and an idea came to me. For the first version of "Breath" I was thinking you could blur the BG a bit and re-submit it (either in eligible or exhibition). You might even try B&W if you are so inclined. Hate to see that photo go to waste (so to speak) I really liked it. This, of course, is just a suggestion.
 
Hi Aam,

I'd forgotten about that one, i was going to play around with it but thought to try and reshoot first. I tried last saturday morning but nothing was any good and everything failed to catch the mood, plus of course i was really pleased with the one i changed the original for which is now up. I will over the next day or so see what i can do with that original one as it was a good 'un. Might have to look for the ugly stick mode in my photo editor though to smooth out some of my beauty......maybe not:> )

Regards
Paul
 
I'm not talking to you until you sell your Pentax.
Well just this once:-)

What were the points that swung you towards the Pentax? I'm getting closer to the 350D & the battery grip to make holding it possible:-) Plus the thought of getting the same shots as the 20D for $900 aus less. Well done on your picy of the day, did they use your frame:-)? Good onya mate.
Regards Rod
 
I tried a fill in the grey area of the lights but it didn't look right. So whatever beats me I clone the bugger out:-) I think it looks a bit better, wot do you think:-)
Cats original



& after the clone massacre



Regards Rod
 
Hi Rod,

In my search for my first dSLR, it came down to basically 3 cameras...
The D70, 350D and the *istD.

While I would have preferred to stick with Canon, there were a few things that finally swayed me to the Pentax.

1. Spot metering... In my view this is essential, and I cannot believe that Canon don't offer this on their 300D, 350D or even the 20D!

I mean many of their P.& S. models have it as standard, like my Pro1, S1IS. my previously owned G6 and A80. One must ask.... If spot metering (being a more professional form of precise light metering) is available on their consumer non-dSLRs for Sunday shooters... Then why is it left off their entry and intermediate range of dSLRs ???? Yes, I know the 20D offers a pseudo "partial metering", but this is simply not the same as Pentax's spot metering which takes a reading from 1% of the frame.

As I say in my sig motto.... Photography is 40% light.... Therefore, if you are wanting perfect exposures in difficult lighting situations... You need spot metering..... I mean, you are always on about entrants in these challenges that have the dreaded blown highlights... This is a result of the many photographers who use Canon dSLRs who can only use evaluative and partial metering.

2. Steel Chassis

3. Ability to use lenses made over the last 40 years, including bargain M42 screw mounts. For example I picked up the finest 50mm prime ever made for AUD$87 on ebay... A Pentax Super-Takumar 50mm F1.4 with radioactive rare earth element (made in 1964), which is as sharp as a tack.... Consider the cost of a plastic Canon EF50mm F1.4 by comparison.

4. Cost.... The *istD originally sold for AUD$2,700, just 12 months ago and competed square on with the Canon 10D.... Now you can buy them new for AUD$1,200 (body only).... That’s a fair saving over what we pay in Oz for a 350D.... Question - would a Canon 10D user upgrade (downgrade?) to a 350D??

5. Hyper-program.... Allows you to go into AV and Tv modes from P mode, simply by turning the two aperture and speed wheels on the fly.

6. Large viewfinder.... X0.95 compared to smaller Nikon D70 or Canon 350D @ 0.80X.

7. Handling.... Logically laid out buttons... I like the tactile feel of the camera

8. 11 point AF compared to 7 point on 350D, or 9 points on 20D.

9. AA batteries -Alkaline, NiMH, Lithium, or CRv3.... Never have to worry about dedicated batteries, and available anywhere at a pinch (Like my Canon S1).

10. Flash sync socket for studio work.

11. ISO3200 versus ISO1600 on 350D.

So far I've built up quite a reasonable dSLR system, for only AUD$3,000... But look what I've managed to get for my money.....
  • Pentax *istD dSLR - Limited edition (Gold plated buttons)
with vertical battery grip..... (That's why I did not go for D70.. No grip!)

Lenses.... (Buying new and also from ebay)

Sigma 18mm - 125mm (Pentax mount)
Sigma 100mm - 300mm (Pentax mount)
Tamron AF 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 LD Ultra Zoom XR Macro
Pentax - F SMC 1.7X AF adapter converter
Pentax - FA - SMC 28 - 80mm
Pentax Super Takumar 50mm F1.4
Pentax SMC F 28mm F2.8
Pentax Yashinon 50mm F1.9
Zenitar 16mm F2.8 diagonal Fish-eye Lens (Pentax mount)
Eyemik 135mm F2.8 (Pentax mount)
Glanz 2X extender (Pentax mount)

External Flash
Sigma EF-500 ST (Pentax dedicated)

Canon remote switch (Shutter release cable) RS-60E3 (Works on Pentax)

Now consider what the above would cost in Nikon or Canon equivalent :-)

Rod... I know you lust for a dSLR system to replace your (excellent but aging) G2, and I know cost is what is probably holding you back. If this is the case, you should not rule out the bargains available in the Pentax system. Believe me, forget the body cost differences... Once you get a dSLR you may start to get "LBA"... Lens buying addiction :-)... And you will end up spending twice as much on lenses, flash, accessories than the body.

Look at me... $1200 for the body.... $1800 for lenses.

So if you are concerned about spending the $950 difference between the 350D or 20D ..... Then, don't get a dSLR.... This is only the start to your eventual money problems :-)

Kind Regards
Richard Higgs
http://www.pbase.com/rhiggs1
rodbam said:
rodbam said:
rodbam said:
rodbam said:
See my Profile for Camera & Equipment listing
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
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“Don’t feel you have to take photos of impressive subjects….
Rather, try to take impressive photos of any subject”.

Photography is 50% photographer, 40% light and 10% equipment.

 
Did any non-American have any luck buying songs (not CD's) from the net. I tried MSN but it wouldn't let me buy because my credit card is non-US.
 
Yeah, The highlights are bothersome I know and removal of them cleans up the picture too. However I think Alexeig is right, IMO. Somehow its loosing the essence of the bubble, as its well lighted inside but no refections on the surface. A bubble will have refections no matter how week. I liked your initial idea of mellowing it down. But its not working as well, with 50%.

If I have to choose between the two, I will go with the original and just live with the highlights.

Thanks Rod for your efforts in this. You did what might have taken me a couple of days to do. Atleast I can see the difference after cleaning it. Well done with your efforts.

Next time I shoot something shiny like this, I will try to diffuse the light source, as Fly had suggested, may be that will make it easier to work with the BHs :-) -Cat

--
--Photocat
http://www.pbase.com/photocat

'It is what we think we know already that often prevents us from learning' -- Claud Bernard.
 
A very informative post mate & some food for thought. I will have to handle the istD in the shop & see how it feels, I like the thought of a bigger viewfinder & apparently the grip on the body has a rounder contour for comfort. The 1% spot meter is a nice addition but if people are not conversant on how metering systems are set up for an 18% reflectance grey card they could have a lot of problems metering in such a small area.

I don't think I will be buying many lenses (I know, how many have said this:-)) I can only see myself with the 18mm out to 200mm (roughly 28mm to 300mm) with a possible addition of a wider lens for Xmas:-) When I was fully into photography I was quite content with a 28mm a 50mm & a 200mm all primes & the thought of more lenses never entered my mind. I can't see myself getting as absorbed into photography now as I was then so hopefully the 18 -55 kit lens & the 55 - 200mm will do all I need for a total cost of about $2200 aus (buying the battery grip & tele zoom from the States) If I buy the 20D I would be inclined to put better lenses on it therefore increasing the cost again. Don't ask me why I would be content with the cheaper lenses on cheaper camera & not on the 20D:-) I know I will, but I'm not sure if it makes any sense. Thanks again Richard:-)

Regards Rod
 
You can get away with very small BHs as highlights as they tend to look like highlights, but the main problem with the lamps being they are recognisable as lamps in the bubble. I would have thought that with the digital sensors being so sensitive to light the lamps could have been placed out of the picture so only their light was visible on the bubble. Still you have done a great job getting this far with it so leave it as it is because it does look very good now.

Don't forget you can always make it look like a bubble by having the word bubble in the title:-)
Regards Rod
 
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