D7: a hands-on look

MikeA

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A friend of mine who is a professional photographer had a chance to spend about an hour with the D7 today, in a store near his home. He is slightly acquainted with the local Minolta sales rep, who allowed my friend to fool with the D7 while he was taking care of some business in the store. My friend's impressions were something like the following:

Focusing: yes, the D7 did have to "hunt" in relatively low light. But when he took the camera outside, the auto-focus mechanism was fairly quick and error-free. Even in low light, if he took aim at subject-matter with sufficient contrast, the camera did not have a problem focusing. Emphasis on "with sufficient contrast." He pointed out that in his experience nearly all auto-focus cameras -- including his top-of-the-line Canon film camera -- are going to "hunt" if their focusing "spots" are not aimed at a sufficiently contrasty scene.

He really liked the movable focus spot. Unfortunately, he said, you can't simply hold down the buttons that move the spot, and have it "scroll." You have to click the buttons repeatedly. But there wasn't much lag. And the feature worked. He noted that it seemed to focus a bit faster than the "normal" mechanism, and the rep noted that he himself likes to leave the camera in that movable-spot-focus mode, only to leave the crosshairs in the center of the image. Interesting little tip (assuming it works with other units).

Interesting thing about automatic focusing: he said he saw not only a central rectangle used for focusing; he also noticed a grid of six smaller rectangles within it -- three across, in two rows -- each of which appeared to be a focus "zone" of some kind. I had not heard about this before.

Manual focusing: He liked the manual focus control quite a bit and noted that he found it possible to focus quickly and precisely with it. I wanted to know if it was too easy to over-compensate with the ring, focusing farther away or closer than the desired plane of focus...and then have to back up or go forward again. Manual "hunting," that is. He didn't find this to be the case at all. Nor did he find the manual focusing ring uncomfortably close to the camera body. (For all I know people's perceptions about this will vary depending on whether they have large hands.)

Manual/auto focus switch: he did not run across the problem of inadvertently moving this switch from the one position to the other. Again, whether this gets to be a problem could pertain to the size of the user's hands.

Battery life: he had the thing on for an hour -- the battery had enough juice for the entire session. (That said, I don't know how many shots he took with it, how often he used the LCD monitor, how often the camera went into power-down mode, and so forth.)

Viewfinder: he thought it was fine. He owns a G1. Because the G1 has such a useless optical viewfinder, he always uses its LCD monitor. But while playing with the D7 he said he didn't feel any need to use the monitor. The image in the EVF was acceptably bright -- and FWIW, it compensated by lightening or darkening the image depending on the ambient light -- and he didn't see too much evidence of "jerky" movement within it. (This did happen a bit, however, when he was trying to follow-focus on cars that were moving by him quickly.)

He didn't notice any significant unsharpness anywhere in the viewfinder -- at least, nothing he found distracting or irritating.

Ergonomics: he said that at first he didn't know the controls but found that he quickly got used to them. Holding a button in with one finger and turning the command dial with the other finger was not a problem -- in fact, he found it pretty convenient.

I asked him if he found the grip uncomfortable. He didn't. He said that just about nothing beats the E-10 for the "feel" of the camera in one's hands, but then again he is comfortable using the gripless G1 and didn't have a problem with how the D7 felt in his hands as he worked with it.

Zoom ring: I should have asked about this, but at the least he didn't remark on the zoom ring's being too stiff (or otherwise weird) for his tastes.

Image quality: he had time to open a few of his and the sales rep's test shots on the store's computer. He liked the image quality. He felt the images needed a bit of USM, but overall he was impressed by the color rendition and the tonal range. This is someone who I would consider to be a Photoshop expert and who is damned good with his G1. He's been shooting pictures (film and digital) for a long time. I expect that he is not easy to impress. If the images had looked bad , he would have said so.

There is one big drawback for him: the Minolta rep told him that contrary to popular belief, the existing Minolta hot-shoe adapter with a flash synch socket will not work with this camera. In other words, there's no studio flash capability at the moment. The rep said that another such accessory making the D7 usable with studio flash equipment will become available in the future. But he didn't know when the accessory would ship. It might become available some weeks after the introduction of the camera, and then again it might ship at the same time that the cameras themselves become available.

His overall impression: He liked it. Thumbs up. He added that even though the price strikes him as being a bit high, he probably would buy this camera ... if he could just get that flash adapter.
 
You're welcome. Wish I could have been there, but I would have had to fly rather a distance to participate. I'm jealous! This guy has an "in" with the camera store...and it certainly doesn't hurt to have an acquaintance with the sales rep. If the flash accessory does ship at the time the D7s begin shipping, that guy will probably have the camera in hand...at the same time that salesmen at stores in my area are still saying "Dimage 7? Never heard of it. But we have some nice 995s in stock..." (For some reason, everything takes a lot longer to get to this one-horse town...)
MikeA, thank you for sharing this info,
 
. If the flash accessory
Mike,
studio flashes can be triggered off very easily by using a flash on camera and reducing the output until it is sufficient to trigger off the slave units on your flashes. If you fire the on-camera flash over your shoulder there is little or no evidence of it in the shot, except maybe as a highlight in the subject's eye (I use this system for portraits). I have operated that way with the Nikon Coolpix 990, using the SB-28 as the on-camera flash.
Regards,
Dave
 
Thanks for your report.

I think that as more positive reports come in, some of those that hastily declared abandon ship will be quietly climbing back on board - what do you think?

People seem to have focussed too heavily on the weaker points and are forgetting that this camera has some major positive features.
Namely: High resolution
Good image/colour quality
Excellent lens quality
Manual zoom control
Very usefull wide zoom range
Fast bright accurate informative EVF
Traditional top LCD info panel
Swivel EVF invaluable for macro, studio and microscope work
Unique flex focus
Control over in camera sharpening etc
Readily available non-proprietary batteries
Micro-drive compatible

I now look forward to the 'anti' messages... let's see?

Cheers

Mark H
 
Non anti messages from me at least. I have decided to "stay in the boat" due to all the reasons you state.

Thanks for the info Mike. Now I'm just waiting fror some hands on myself!

Jonas
I now look forward to the 'anti' messages... let's see?

Cheers

Mark H
 
I will run this by him but I think he's already had some trouble doing this with other cameras. The effectiveness of the technique seems to depend in part on how the on-camera flash fires relative to the shutter's opening and closing. That's what I have heard; I haven't had any occasion to try any of it myself...unloaded my Norman gear a long time ago...
studio flashes can be triggered off very easily by using a flash on
camera and reducing the output until it is sufficient to trigger
off the slave units on your flashes. If you fire the on-camera
flash over your shoulder there is little or no evidence of it in
the shot, except maybe as a highlight in the subject's eye (I use
this system for portraits). I have operated that way with the Nikon
Coolpix 990, using the SB-28 as the on-camera flash.
 
. If the flash accessory
Mike,
studio flashes can be triggered off very easily by using a flash on
camera and reducing the output until it is sufficient to trigger
off the slave units on your flashes. If you fire the on-camera
flash over your shoulder there is little or no evidence of it in
the shot, except maybe as a highlight in the subject's eye (I use
this system for portraits). I have operated that way with the Nikon
Coolpix 990, using the SB-28 as the on-camera flash.
Regards,
Dave
Dave

I tape a bit of undeveloped slide film over the front of my Casio QV3000EX's flash. Enough light goes through to trigger the slave units and not enough to make any difference to the pictures.

May be a useful tip for those with built in flash units.

regards
Kate
 
I think that as more positive reports come in, some of those that
hastily declared abandon ship will be quietly climbing back on
board - what do you think?
I don't know. Perhaps as more samples are posted here, shot in a variety of circumstances, that will begin having an impact. I was turned off for a while by sample after sample in which the colors were strangely muted and definitely uninteresting. Phil Askey's discovery of the color-space issue has certainly made a difference in my opinion about this -- but I would sure like to see samples taken by the guy whose mini-report I posted here. He had only an hour with the camera; they aren't in stock yet so he won't have another shot at it right away. Maybe he'll be able to do more with it in a few weeks.
 
Thanks for your report.
I think that as more positive reports come in, some of those that
hastily declared abandon ship will be quietly climbing back on
board - what do you think?
People seem to have focussed too heavily on the weaker points and
are forgetting that this camera has some major positive features.
Namely: High resolution
Good image/colour quality
Excellent lens quality
Manual zoom control
Very usefull wide zoom range
Fast bright accurate informative EVF
Traditional top LCD info panel
Swivel EVF invaluable for macro, studio and microscope work
Unique flex focus
Control over in camera sharpening etc
Readily available non-proprietary batteries
Micro-drive compatible

I now look forward to the 'anti' messages... let's see?

Cheers

Mark H
Mark you are right! I was the first to abondon ship! yes I am coming back on board...not quietly as I don't mind admiting my shortcomings!....however I will wait a few months before I buy mine, just so that I can see what if any improvements are made.

regards
Kate :-)
 
I think that as more positive reports come in, some of those that
hastily declared abandon ship will be quietly climbing back on
board - what do you think?
Well, I never actually 'abandoned ship', rather I was severely buffeted by the tidal wave created by Phil's review. At this moment I still have a tenuous hold on the handrail, but my knuckles are getting pretty white and I am not sure how much longer I can continue to hold on. This recent report has thrown me a bit of a life-line, but I can still sense the icey water lapping at my feet!
 
Mike, one of the Casio regulars used velcro and a peice of metal
from a can lid to make a deflector that bounced the onboard
flash up. That is how he triggers his studio slaves. No impact on
the image at all.
I think that as more positive reports come in, some of those that
hastily declared abandon ship will be quietly climbing back on
board - what do you think?
Well, I never actually 'abandoned ship', rather I was severely
buffeted by the tidal wave created by Phil's review. At this
moment I still have a tenuous hold on the handrail, but my knuckles
are getting pretty white and I am not sure how much longer I can
continue to hold on. This recent report has thrown me a bit of a
life-line, but I can still sense the icey water lapping at my feet!
 
Kate,
I think you mean unexposed, but developed slide film. It will be black.

Steve
I tape a bit of undeveloped slide film over the front of my Casio
QV3000EX's flash. Enough light goes through to trigger the slave
units and not enough to make any difference to the pictures.

May be a useful tip for those with built in flash units.

regards
Kate
 
I understand that various work-arounds can be effective enough.

The friend whose remarks I first quoted doesn't want the possibility of any stray light placing reflections where they shouldn't be, so I reckon he'll hold out for the accessory having the synch terminal. As someone who once used studio flash equipment a fair amount, I would be in the same frame of mind if I had studio work to do -- I want that connection to be direct and simple. The fewer the workarounds the better. By me, it's one of those wheels that ain't broke and don't need no fixin'. :-) But for others I am sure the workarounds will be ok.
Mike, one of the Casio regulars used velcro and a peice of metal
from a can lid to make a deflector that bounced the onboard
flash up. That is how he triggers his studio slaves. No impact on
the image at all.
 
The friend whose remarks I first quoted had a few others to pass along in some recent e-mail. The movement of the zoom ring felt a bit stiff to him but it didn't seem to him as if there were mechanical parts rubbing against one another inside. It was not a hindrance. The way the lens "felt" reminded him a bit of the Tamron 28-200.

He repeated in the e-mail that he did not find the original D7 images to be flat or muted or as if they "needed help." They were loaded as-is onto the store's computer's hard disk (they didn't have the Minolta software installed).

[I have felt that samples seen on the web, so far, are a bit muted. Likewise the samples Phil Askey had on the web site at the time of the pre-production review (I should have another look at the updated samples, though.]

The sales rep had prints to display that had been taken with the D7 and printed on both Epson and Fuji Pictrography (? dunno that one) printers. The friend's comment:
A couple were product type shots and one was of a copper colored
highly polished fishing reel with some fuzzy lures, a pole assorted fishing
type props added. The shot was GORGEOUS. The reel was razor sharp
and the rest of the stuff was kind of soft -- I'm guessing macro mode
was used. Nice.
 
I spoke to my local store today. I asked about the flash adapter with the PC terminal. They confirmed that according to their Minolta rep it won't work but that their rep just called them today and told them that he found out there was going to be a new adapter with a PC terminal designed to use with the D7. It will be available in the Fall.
There is one big drawback for him: the Minolta rep told him that
contrary to popular belief, the existing Minolta hot-shoe adapter
with a flash synch socket will not work with this camera. In
other words, there's no studio flash capability at the moment. The
rep said that another such accessory making the D7 usable with
studio flash equipment will become available in the future. But he
didn't know when the accessory would ship. It might become
available some weeks after the introduction of the camera, and then
again it might ship at the same time that the cameras themselves
become available.

His overall impression: He liked it. Thumbs up. He added that even
though the price strikes him as being a bit high, he probably would
buy this camera ... if he could just get that flash adapter.
 
So that's good news for people who want to use the D7 with external flash units "wired" in the conventional way.

Minolta loses some points, however, for not having the accessory available at the time the camera ships. I suppose they don't have to be especially concerned about it, themselves; I suppose only a small percentage of the target "audience" cares about this.
I spoke to my local store today. I asked about the flash adapter
with the PC terminal. They confirmed that according to their
Minolta rep it won't work but that their rep just called them today
and told them that he found out there was going to be a new adapter
with a PC terminal designed to use with the D7. It will be
available in the Fall.
 
oops! Steve

yes that is what I meant.........it had been along day!
cheers
Kate
Steve
I tape a bit of undeveloped slide film over the front of my Casio
QV3000EX's flash. Enough light goes through to trigger the slave
units and not enough to make any difference to the pictures.

May be a useful tip for those with built in flash units.

regards
Kate
 
I've had a look at a macro shot taken with the D7. The subject-matter is an old engraving. The original resolution was apparently 1280x960, but it's difficult to tell what the other settings were because the EXIF info is not available. The file size (1.3 megs) doesn't give much away in this regard -- the image is evidently cropped from a larger one. It's a bit frustrating not knowing how the shot was taken. I think some kind of close-up attachment must have been used. The Dimage 7 doesn't shoot up to 1:1 in macro mode, right? This is larger than life-size...

T'will have to remain a mystery. IAC, the shot is very "crisp". Extremely fine details can be made out quite easily. I can even see tiny colored lines printed between black lines in the original engraving--the colored lines are not digital artifacts, but part of the engraving's "copy protection" scheme (it's some kind of stock certificate, perhaps). I wish I could have seen the original shot as a RAW or TIFF image. I'm impressed enough as it is; the original must have been pretty remarkable, too.

So even though I've seen D7 samples from time to time that struck me as soft and unsharp -- I am not referring to the latest samples in Phil Askey's own review, which look pretty good -- this example really stands out. I now have a better idea what the camera can do at its best, with this kind of subject-matter. To put it in the vernacular: good deal.
 
They may be triggering off of I.R. radiation - unexposed slide film will reduce visible light output by a factor of up to 256X (depends on the film)while having little effect on I.R. radiation.
yes that is what I meant.........it had been along day!
cheers
Kate
Steve
I tape a bit of undeveloped slide film over the front of my Casio
QV3000EX's flash. Enough light goes through to trigger the slave
units and not enough to make any difference to the pictures.

May be a useful tip for those with built in flash units.

regards
Kate
 

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