Mike Johnston
Leading Member
I have one thing to say: wow.disappointing 5mp e1 sensor? - sure u need to take iso3200 pics....?
--Mike
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I have one thing to say: wow.disappointing 5mp e1 sensor? - sure u need to take iso3200 pics....?
Sorry. The Olympus. I can make do with either a 3-lens combo of wide + normal + short tele, or a 2-lens combo of wide-normal + short tele.Damn, these crop factors are confusing. I lost track of the format.Sadly, I'm with you, except I don't need the superwide. And
actually, if there was a 20/2 then I wouldn't need two wider primes
either--I'd be happy working with just the 20/2 and the 50/2.
Are you talking 20 mm on the Olympus, the Pentax, or 35 mm film?
I still haven't done enough shooting with it. Too afraid I'll see a real picture when I'm out with it, in which case I'd need Tri-X.My current widest lens is a 14/2.8, for about 22 mm equivalent.
It's not quite as wide as I'd like, but it's close enough. But if
there was a 10 mm, I'd gladly add that.
You did? Nice. You seemed to like it a lot in the review.I bought the *ist DS and am using it with older Pentax prime (and
one autofocus I bought just for the camera, a 28/2.8 FA. I think I
actually prefer my old 28mm f/3.5 "K" lens, except in dim light).
The DX is very easy to use with older manual lenses.Did
you change the focusing screen or is the standard one good enough
for MF? It's clearly better in this respect than the competition; I
was very favorably impressed by it every time I tried it, but
haven't done any RL shooting so I really don't know.
Ah, poor Leica....I've been sorely tempted by that camera, but I'm too deep in the
Canon system to really be able to jump ship, and my wife would
think me totally silly if I started a second lens collection --
and besides, I do really appreciate the low-light usability of the
20D (the shutter on my 10D pooped out, and I ended up fixing it the
fun way).
Yep, the E-300 with a nice bright compact prime would be one hellHowever, if Olympus does come out with moderate-wide-to-normal
primes, it's going to be tough for me to stay away!
of a discreet street-and-travel camera. In a very real way, it
could be the M6 of the digital era.
Interesting point, Tinrobot, thanks. Maybe you're right. I'm still waiting for the "D200," though, and the E-2, and more short fast primes, and....Seems like the technology is getting to the point where it's
evolutionary rather than revolutionary. The tools are now very
capable and reasonably priced. I think you could buy a good
digital camera today and not have to think about upgrading for a
many years (unlike the situation a few years ago, where you had to
upgrade just about every year.) Sure, we'll have more megapixels
and more technology as time goes on, but it won't be the
supenova-like explosion we saw over the past 5 years or so.
I think that's terrific because people can now be confident in
their tools and can go back to taking pictures rather than
upgrading all the time. I think the technology is finally "good
enough" and this "boring" show kind of reinforced that.
I remember the same thing happened with 3D animation (my primary
field.) Siggraph used to be an incredibly hot show in the 90's,
but around 2000 or so, the tools became "good enough" and the show
has slowed down. It doesn't mean the art of animation has slowed
down - in fact, it's better than ever. Now that the technology is
in place, people can focus on creating art.
Agree.Well, the journey to the Dark Side is almost complete -- only
isolated pockets of silver-halide chauvinist resistance remain.
I believe the term is "conspicuous consumption". It will keep the market alive and well long after it "should have" stagnated. However, stagnation is far from over. In-camera AS is in its infancy, eye-control AF has yet to be released, built-in polaroids, expodisks, or ND filters, miniturization, hybrid TTL-LCD solutions, etc., etc. Now, whether any of this is ever introduced (or taken to higher levels) is anyone's guess. Point is, there is plenty useful to do before stagnation sets in.That means that the growth rate for the market will stall; it's
even possible that it'll shrink: most people tend to hold on to
their cameras for a quite a while, and once they've got a digital
one that gets the job done well enough, they won't be switching
frequently enough to keep the volumes going.
If the camera manufacturers are smart, and you didn't hear that from me, they will offer a myriad of spin-offs to gain more of the potential market. Camoflauge coloring and other schemes on DSLRs and compacts, "Apple-esque" styling, and, of course, downloadable "shutter tones" from your favorite music artist. : )So, for both reasons, it's not that unexpected. The heady days of
the revolution are over; now come the five-year-plans.
We're all way past that, anyway. Look at all the cat, dog, bird, and kid (I'm guilty on this one!) pics that litter the fora. Exactly what more do these people "need"? Not a thing. Even professionals suffer the same "unnecessary needs". So few people print larger than 8 x 10 (or maybe 8 x 12) that todays cameras already so fit their needs it's silly to say you "need" more.The good news is that with any luck a widget bought now won't feel
totally outdated in two years.![]()
That's not too different from what I usually pack -- either the 14 and the 35 or the 20 and the 50 (with the crop factor). With film, it'd be a 28 and 50 or 50 and 85 (the set I had on the AE-1 since passed on to a family member).Sorry. The Olympus. I can make do with either a 3-lens combo of
wide + normal + short tele, or a 2-lens combo of wide-normal +
short tele.
Hehe.I still haven't done enough shooting with it. Too afraid I'll see a
real picture when I'm out with it, in which case I'd need Tri-X.
In my experience, ACR's chroma noise reduction is pretty gentle -- it doesn't impact texture detail much at all. However, you're right about the "one size fits all" -- or doesn't: what with all the hoopla over banding on the 20D, I was somewhat surprised not to see any even in ridiculous conditions like ISO3200 + 1 stop... until I did a conversion with ACR. Whoops, banding and pretty violent blue blobs floating in the shadows. C1 does a way better job at high ISO, even with banding suppression and noise reduction turned way down.And I never claimed you said that, you said it would be on par with
the 10D. I merely wanted to remind you and everyone that software
noise reduction and Canon's are a little different and that the
Canon approach results in a better SNR while the softwarefiltering
approach does not guarantee that at all. Furthermore the "one size
fits all" noisefiltering in ACR that is the same for all Cameras is
not exactly the best to use.
They sure do. As a camera, the E-1 is excellent, as is the E-300.With regards to size and cost, I don't think there are any other
weatherproof cameras with the small size and tank-like build
quality for anywhere near the current price of an E-1. If these
things matter, the E-1 does deliver.
You're entirely right. My mild distaste for the E-system has in fact very little to do with the devices themselves, and a lot to do with marketing. I'm a big fan of the "open source" approach to things (did that with the stuff on my website, FWIW), and I sort of take it personally when someone abuses the terminology for marketing purposes.With this in mind, I think there is realistic hope for improvement
in 4/3. Sensor technology probably has some way to go, and if
Olympus (or someone else) can sort out the noise and sensitivity
issue, those f2.0 zooms will be a LOT more appealing.
Think of the last big revolution -- AF. I've got an EOS-650 -- I believe the first EOS Canon released. It has one AF point and minimal features. Yet it's an extremely capable photographic tool -- and one the guy I got it from hadn't felt the need to "upgrade" until going digital.I believe the term is "conspicuous consumption". It will keep the
market alive and well long after it "should have" stagnated.
However, stagnation is far from over. In-camera AS is in its
infancy, eye-control AF has yet to be released, built-in polaroids,
expodisks, or ND filters, miniturization, hybrid TTL-LCD solutions,
etc., etc. Now, whether any of this is ever introduced (or taken
to higher levels) is anyone's guess. Point is, there is plenty
useful to do before stagnation sets in.
Exactly what you'll do in a mature market.If the camera manufacturers are smart, and you didn't hear that
from me, they will offer a myriad of spin-offs to gain more of the
potential market. Camoflauge coloring and other schemes on DSLRs
and compacts, "Apple-esque" styling, and, of course, downloadable
"shutter tones" from your favorite music artist. : )
You "don't think" and I do.That might be true to a certain extent, but I don't think it is
really on par with the 10D.
English is not my native language and I'm not good enough to stand in that word by word discussions. I called it "CMOS look" but I could also call it "Canon look, excluding the 1D" or whatever you like.Well I would not call it trolling, but it is indeed a personal
preference, we could discuss this indepth but I think you are on
the right track when you blame the AA filter, that alone should
tell you that it has nothing to do with the sensor being a CMOS or
with the noise reduction, this "softness" you are refering to is
simply is no inherent property of a CMOS so please stop calling it
"CMOS look" or whatever might indicate a connection to the type of
sensor. This will just add to the confusion around that subject.
soft does not need to be "bad", most people like it. If you have a better English word for "geglättet" please tell me.I just wanted to get the technical facts straight, with commentsUse what you like more I don't think that we need another Canon vs
Olympus vs Nikon vs everything else thread.
like "soft [...] cmos look" you can certainly provoke such silly
flamewars...
I think you are confused a bit because of all the "big pixel" nonsense that is being posted to the web (Canon must laugh their @ss off...) What is FACT is that a bigger format NEEDS more light, because a certain exposure is spread out over a larger area, and this reduces light intensity on-chip quadratically. That is why F8 for the same angle is a bigger hole with a bigger format.But I believe my point still stands -- because of the disappointing
sensor, the lenses need to be brighter, which negates the
price/weight advantage of the system.
I think you are trying to say "smooth" rather than "soft".soft does not need to be "bad", most people like it. If you have a
better English word for "geglättet" please tell me.
Nonsense?I think you are confused a bit because of all the "big pixel"But I believe my point still stands -- because of the disappointing
sensor, the lenses need to be brighter, which negates the
price/weight advantage of the system.
nonsense that is being posted to the web (Canon must laugh their
@ss off...)
Of course. That's why Olympus had to make these f/2.0 monsters.What is FACT is that a bigger format NEEDS more light,
because a certain exposure is spread out over a larger area, and
this reduces light intensity on-chip quadratically. That is why F8
for the same angle is a bigger hole with a bigger format.
Precisely -- and the smaller the format, the bigger you have to print it.See it as a slide-projector that you simply move back so it lights
a 4 times larger area; you'll lose 2 stops on-screen intensity.
(you have use a bigger "hole" in the lens, or increase the lamp, to
get the same brightness)
The exposure itself is determined by the lightmeter, and not by
pixel-size or chip-size. There is the same amount of light (per sq.
mm on-chip) to play with for every system, from compact to 4x5".
Yeah, I guess that explains how come I get a usable ISO6400 out of my CMOS sensor.Also, CMOS has much smaller sensitive areas than CCD.
--Oh, it's not unexpected at all. My point was broader: Olympus'sWhat did you expect from F2 zooms? Until we get some magicialSo much for "light, compact, and inexpensive..."
technology to bend light, I guess we are stuck with heavy glass...
promise of the 4/3 system was "light, compact, inexpensive." Why do
they need these f/2.0 zooms? Because the sensor is 1-2 stops less
sensitive than the APS-C competition. IOW, a current APS-C camera
with an f/2.8 zoom will outshoot an Oly with one of these monsters
on, and it can be (depending on your brand and choice of lens)
"lighter, more compact, and less expensive."
Petteri
--
Me on photography: [ http://www.prime-junta.tk/ ]
Me on politics: [ http://p-on-p.blogspot.com/ ]
Nikon thinks that they can sell the F6 in reasonable quantities, although they did not define that I would guess anything profitable, for at least 10 years.Well, the journey to the Dark Side is almost complete -- only
isolated pockets of silver-halide chauvinist resistance remain.
"soft" should be ok, "smooth" might be a better description or if you want to ridicule it "creamy". What is driving me nuts is making a connection with CMOS.soft does not need to be "bad", most people like it. If you have a
better English word for "geglättet" please tell me.
Is there a club -- or a nice tavern somewhere -- for us prime lovers?Yep, the E-300 with a nice bright compact prime would be one hell
of a discreet street-and-travel camera. In a very real way, it
could be the M6 of the digital era.
Try a Contax N1d. (pixel-size king with 6MP @ 24x36) and you'll know. It has lots of noise at iso 25.Nonsense?
Had to? I take most of my pictures at 5.6 to 11, and this works fine.Of course. That's why Olympus had to make these f/2.0 monsters.What is FACT is that a bigger format NEEDS more light,
because a certain exposure is spread out over a larger area, and
this reduces light intensity on-chip quadratically. That is why F8
for the same angle is a bigger hole with a bigger format.
That reduces DoF compared to bigger formats, but has absolutely nothing to do with exposure.Precisely -- and the smaller the format, the bigger you have toSee it as a slide-projector that you simply move back so it lights
a 4 times larger area; you'll lose 2 stops on-screen intensity.
(you have use a bigger "hole" in the lens, or increase the lamp, to
get the same brightness)
The exposure itself is determined by the lightmeter, and not by
pixel-size or chip-size. There is the same amount of light (per sq.
mm on-chip) to play with for every system, from compact to 4x5".
print it.
You must be joking.... my goodness.What you're missing is that the light-per-square-mm-of-sensor
metric doesn't matter a damn thing. It's the light-per-square-mm of
print that counts.
Which proves what? That it's possible to make a noisy sensor with big pixels?Try a Contax N1d. (pixel-size king with 6MP @ 24x36) and you'llNonsense?
know. It has lots of noise at iso 25.
So, because you never shoot in available light, nobody else should either?Had to? I take most of my pictures at 5.6 to 11, and this works fine.Of course. That's why Olympus had to make these f/2.0 monsters.
It has everything to do with exposure. You don't "spread the light" when you capture it: you do it when you print it. An 8 x 10 printed from a 2/3 sensor needs to be magnified by a much bigger factor than a full-frame sensor. That's where the light you captured ends up spread.That reduces DoF compared to bigger formats, but has absolutelyPrecisely -- and the smaller the format, the bigger you have to
print it.
nothing to do with exposure.
(shorter FL increases DoF, and this effect is more prominent)
You must be an idiot. My goodness.You must be joking.... my goodness.What you're missing is that the light-per-square-mm-of-sensor
metric doesn't matter a damn thing. It's the light-per-square-mm of
print that counts.