GREAT pano's can be made with ANY camera, film or digital. It just
s-o-o much easier with digital. Here's a neat website, if you
haven't visited it yet
http://www.panoguide.com
To fully optimize panorama results I would recommend (shooting
conditions permitting of course):
Always expose (via Manual mode!) for the BRIGHTEST frame in your
sequence ...
otherwise you run the risk of blowing out highlights when you get
to the "bright" frame(s)
Too much overlap can be as bad as too little, really ...
20% - 30% is optimum.
Use a TRIPOD WHENEVER POSSIBLE ...
the less vertical + angular misalignment between frames the better
the resulting pano will be. No, not mandatory, but accurate
stitching and retention of the full scene you are seeing depends on
minimizing misalignment between all frames in the sequence.
Cheap hotshoe bubble level ...
level the tripod/camera in the
horizontal axis - full left to
full right motion of the camera, for reason noted above
Consider taking frames with camera in "vertical" position if scene
suits this ...
the resulting pano with have a more square width/height ratio
maximizing what you can fit on standard paper sizes when printing
"horizontal" is not the only type of pano, pick a sequence best
suited for the scene ...
horizontal, vertical or "box" sequence