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How would you develop the film without a darkroom? Anyways, no scanning in for me. If I want digital I'll use my dRebel, with this I wanted to go as opposite of dSLR as I could. Rangefinders are really fun too. The focusing is cool.
Richard
photophool said:
Good luck with your film!
marlinspike said:
Check it out, just came in the mail today.
http://Davidson.smugmug.com/gallery/316631/1/12591912
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http://davidson.smugmug.com
See my profile for equipment and wish list
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
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http://davidson.smugmug.com
See my profile for equipment and wish list
 
RF's are great, got myself hooked on a Fed 5c, which got me quite addicted.
Leica IIIc folowed, then Bessa R, then of course, the Leica M2.

Good luck with that beauty!
marlinspike said:
photophool said:
Good luck with your film!
marlinspike said:
Check it out, just came in the mail today.
http://Davidson.smugmug.com/gallery/316631/1/12591912
--
http://davidson.smugmug.com
See my profile for equipment and wish list
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
--
http://davidson.smugmug.com
See my profile for equipment and wish list
Click to expand...
--
Steve
http://www.pbase.com/xx573v3xx
 
I figured I would get this cheapo ($36 + shipping) to see how found I am of rangefinders and if I actually use it enough, I'll eventually save up for a Leica M3. Man those those are $$$$!

Richard
xx573V3xx said:
Good luck with that beauty!
marlinspike said:
photophool said:
Good luck with your film!
marlinspike said:
Check it out, just came in the mail today.
http://Davidson.smugmug.com/gallery/316631/1/12591912
--
http://davidson.smugmug.com
See my profile for equipment and wish list
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
--
http://davidson.smugmug.com
See my profile for equipment and wish list
Click to expand...
--
Steve
http://www.pbase.com/xx573v3xx
Click to expand...
--
http://davidson.smugmug.com
See my profile for equipment and wish list
 
marlinspike said:
I figured I would get this cheapo ($36 + shipping) to see how found
I am of rangefinders
Click to expand...
Looks nice! If you use a map (of africa, asia...) in place of the newspaper it will look exotic. Where did you get it from?
I thought these selenium light meters lasted about 20 yrs, does your's work?
TIA
Kastor
 
I went with the newspaper just because it's all I had (actually, I went downstair to get it - the college has free NY Times, USA Todays, and Charlotte Observers - and all that was left was a USA Today style section). You're righ about the map...hmm, I gotta get me one.

I got it off of Ebay from sov-souveniers (for the record, he was a bit over optimistic about the condition). As far as I can tell the meter works, but I guess I'll find out when I get drop my film off at the lab tomorrow. Quickly comparing it to my dRebel it seems a bit oversensitive (about 1/3 to 1/2 stop, but then, it's not TTL metering so it could be accurate is it gets).
Richard
Kastor said:
marlinspike said:
I figured I would get this cheapo ($36 + shipping) to see how found
I am of rangefinders
Click to expand...
Looks nice! If you use a map (of africa, asia...) in place of the
newspaper it will look exotic. Where did you get it from?
I thought these selenium light meters lasted about 20 yrs, does
your's work?
TIA
Kastor
Click to expand...
--
http://davidson.smugmug.com
See my profile for equipment and wish list
 
BTW, in the US, http://www.fedka.com/catalog/ reportedly has good copies of russian knock off cameras.
Richard
marlinspike said:
I got it off of Ebay from sov-souveniers (for the record, he was a
bit over optimistic about the condition). As far as I can tell the
meter works, but I guess I'll find out when I get drop my film off
at the lab tomorrow. Quickly comparing it to my dRebel it seems a
bit oversensitive (about 1/3 to 1/2 stop, but then, it's not TTL
metering so it could be accurate is it gets).
Richard
Kastor said:
marlinspike said:
I figured I would get this cheapo ($36 + shipping) to see how found
I am of rangefinders
Click to expand...
Looks nice! If you use a map (of africa, asia...) in place of the
newspaper it will look exotic. Where did you get it from?
I thought these selenium light meters lasted about 20 yrs, does
your's work?
TIA
Kastor
Click to expand...
--
http://davidson.smugmug.com
See my profile for equipment and wish list
Click to expand...
--
http://davidson.smugmug.com
See my profile for equipment and wish list
 
After getting the roll of film back I can say the selenium meter works fine. I just have to remember it's not TTL and thus can't be blindly followed.
Richard
Kastor said:
marlinspike said:
I figured I would get this cheapo ($36 + shipping) to see how found
I am of rangefinders
Click to expand...
Looks nice! If you use a map (of africa, asia...) in place of the
newspaper it will look exotic. Where did you get it from?
I thought these selenium light meters lasted about 20 yrs, does
your's work?
TIA
Kastor
Click to expand...
--
http://davidson.smugmug.com
See my profile for equipment and wish list
 
Thats how I do it at home, and now I can also scan once it dries with my Epson 3170.

Great fun, haha. Usually I am lazy and simply wait till a few hours past sundown, which is of course much easier around this time of year.
marlinspike said:
Petteri Sulonen said:
marlinspike said:
How would you develop the film without a darkroom?
Click to expand...
All you need is a jar with the spirals, the chemicals, and a
bathroom or toilet you can darken.

Petteri
--
Me on photography: [ http://www.prime-junta.tk ]
Me on politics: [ http://p-on-p.blogspot.com/ ]
Click to expand...
--
http://davidson.smugmug.com
See my profile for equipment and wish list
Click to expand...
--
Steve
http://www.pbase.com/xx573v3xx
 
Just load the film into the canister in the dark (or dark bag), use the chemicals in full daylight (dev, stop, rinse). Dry. Scan.
marlinspike said:
photophool said:
Good luck with your film!
marlinspike said:
Check it out, just came in the mail today.
http://Davidson.smugmug.com/gallery/316631/1/12591912
--
http://davidson.smugmug.com
See my profile for equipment and wish list
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
--
http://davidson.smugmug.com
See my profile for equipment and wish list
Click to expand...
 
photophool said:
Just load the film into the canister in the dark (or dark bag), use
the chemicals in full daylight (dev, stop, rinse). Dry. Scan.
Click to expand...
Where can I find detailed instructions on this method of developing (I know absolutely nothing about developing film). I suppose once that's done an enlarger in any dark room could be used to make prints if you don't scan.
Richard
photophool said:
marlinspike said:
photophool said:
Good luck with your film!
marlinspike said:
Check it out, just came in the mail today.
http://Davidson.smugmug.com/gallery/316631/1/12591912
--
http://davidson.smugmug.com
See my profile for equipment and wish list
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
--
http://davidson.smugmug.com
See my profile for equipment and wish list
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
--
http://davidson.smugmug.com
See my profile for equipment and wish list
 
The steps of developing B&W film:

Find DEVELOPMENT TIME for the combination of the film, development chemical, temperature, and dilution you are using

http://www.digitaltruth.com massive developer chart will help you out there

-You need a few things:
-Good thermometer
-A sink
-A room you can darken COMPLETELY (doesnt have to be room with sink)
-A development tank (Paterson plastic tank system is good for starters)

1-2 plastic reels, hopefully come with tank (you need the same # of reels as you have rolls of film to develop, also you can only develop film together if it has the same development time for the chemical you are using)
-Development chemical (Kodak D76 good for starters)
-Fixer chemical (Kodak or Ilford rapid fix works well)
-Kodak Photoflo wetting agent chemical
-Graduated cylinders
-Funnels

All can be bought at http://www.bhphotovideo.com a great store

Now onto the fun:

Turn off ALL lights
Pop up canister, cut leader straight
Load film onto reel, place into tank and seal tank
Turn on lights
Pour in first chemical, DEVELOPER (one of the most common is D76)
Agitate with the plastic 'twizzle stick' for 10 seconds and stop
Continue this agitation for 10 seconds every 1 minute
END DEVELOPER step
Pour out DEVELOPER
QUICKLY place open tank under running water for 3 minutes

This is to rinse the film and STOP the developer (some use an acidic stop bath instead, but this is unneccessary)
Pour out water
Pour in FIXER chemical
Agitate in the same manner as the DEVELOPER step, for 10 minutes
Pour FIXER back into bottle

Place open tank under running water for 10 minutes for a full rinsing of residual chemicals
Pour out water

Pour in a small amount of PHOTOFLO chemical (wetting agent), fill with water until you see bubbles coming out side of tank
Let sit 1 minute
Pour out
Open tank, hang film to dry

You now have developed film

May I suggest a traditional film such as Kodak Tri-x or Ilford HP-5+ for starters as it is far more tolerant of darkroom error for a beginner.

if you have any further questions on development, feel free to contact me via personal email.
marlinspike said:
photophool said:
Just load the film into the canister in the dark (or dark bag), use
the chemicals in full daylight (dev, stop, rinse). Dry. Scan.
Click to expand...
Where can I find detailed instructions on this method of developing
(I know absolutely nothing about developing film). I suppose once
that's done an enlarger in any dark room could be used to make
prints if you don't scan.
Richard
marlinspike said:
marlinspike said:
photophool said:
Good luck with your film!
marlinspike said:
Check it out, just came in the mail today.
http://Davidson.smugmug.com/gallery/316631/1/12591912
--
http://davidson.smugmug.com
See my profile for equipment and wish list
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
--
http://davidson.smugmug.com
See my profile for equipment and wish list
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
--
http://davidson.smugmug.com
See my profile for equipment and wish list
Click to expand...
--
Steve
http://www.pbase.com/xx573v3xx
 
Forgot to add:

At the end of each 10 second agitation, pick up the tank and bang it a bit on the counter. This releases any bubbles that get caught between the film and prevents uneven development.

Also, by any chance would you happen to reside near Albany, NY?
xx573V3xx said:
http://www.digitaltruth.com massive developer chart will help you out there

-You need a few things:
-Good thermometer
-A sink
-A room you can darken COMPLETELY (doesnt have to be room with sink)
-A development tank (Paterson plastic tank system is good for
starters)
1-2 plastic reels, hopefully come with tank (you need the same # of
reels as you have rolls of film to develop, also you can only
develop film together if it has the same development time for the
chemical you are using)
-Development chemical (Kodak D76 good for starters)
-Fixer chemical (Kodak or Ilford rapid fix works well)
-Kodak Photoflo wetting agent chemical
-Graduated cylinders
-Funnels

All can be bought at http://www.bhphotovideo.com a great store

Now onto the fun:

Turn off ALL lights
Pop up canister, cut leader straight
Load film onto reel, place into tank and seal tank
Turn on lights
Pour in first chemical, DEVELOPER (one of the most common is D76)
Agitate with the plastic 'twizzle stick' for 10 seconds and stop
Continue this agitation for 10 seconds every 1 minute
END DEVELOPER step
Pour out DEVELOPER
QUICKLY place open tank under running water for 3 minutes
This is to rinse the film and STOP the developer (some use an
acidic stop bath instead, but this is unneccessary)
Pour out water
Pour in FIXER chemical
Agitate in the same manner as the DEVELOPER step, for 10 minutes
Pour FIXER back into bottle
Place open tank under running water for 10 minutes for a full
rinsing of residual chemicals
Pour out water
Pour in a small amount of PHOTOFLO chemical (wetting agent), fill
with water until you see bubbles coming out side of tank
Let sit 1 minute
Pour out
Open tank, hang film to dry

You now have developed film

May I suggest a traditional film such as Kodak Tri-x or Ilford
HP-5+ for starters as it is far more tolerant of darkroom error for
a beginner.

if you have any further questions on development, feel free to
contact me via personal email.
marlinspike said:
photophool said:
Just load the film into the canister in the dark (or dark bag), use
the chemicals in full daylight (dev, stop, rinse). Dry. Scan.
Click to expand...
Where can I find detailed instructions on this method of developing
(I know absolutely nothing about developing film). I suppose once
that's done an enlarger in any dark room could be used to make
prints if you don't scan.
Richard
xx573V3xx said:
marlinspike said:
photophool said:
Good luck with your film!
marlinspike said:
Check it out, just came in the mail today.
http://Davidson.smugmug.com/gallery/316631/1/12591912
--
http://davidson.smugmug.com
See my profile for equipment and wish list
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
--
http://davidson.smugmug.com
See my profile for equipment and wish list
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
--
http://davidson.smugmug.com
See my profile for equipment and wish list
Click to expand...
--
Steve
http://www.pbase.com/xx573v3xx
Click to expand...
--
Steve
http://www.pbase.com/xx573v3xx
 
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