Jay, if you're still here:
Completely removing the filter (no AA and no IR) will give you a
much sharper image an reduce a ton of flare in the system....
However, there are 2 downsides:
1) Your focus will be slightly off (not really an isssue if you
shoot at or above f8..)
2) You will need to add an IR filter to your lens (if get a "Hot
Mirror") or you will get magenta highlights (from IR
contamination)..
Ummm .. can you elaborate on this a bit?
On my DCS720x (w/AA filter) and DCS760 (w/IR filter), the "focus is on" in the sense of the AF and focus indicators.
BUT, the markings on the lens (any lens, from 15mm to 300mm) are waaaay off. On, say, an F2 or F3, one can set the distance (e.g. 5m) on the lens, for an object at 5m, and it will be in focus. With the DCS7xx cameras, set it to 5m, and the object will not be in focus. IIRC, I would need to set the distance to an indicated (on the lens barrel) 3m or so (say, on a 105mm lens) for an object at 5m to be in focus.
Similarly, objects at infinity require the lens to be set to something quite a bit shorter than infinity to be properly focused.
This really screws up hyperfocal settings, etc.
I'm not the only person to notice this -- another aerial photographer made a strong point about not trusting the hyperfocal distances with these cameras.
I've tested the DCS720x and DCS760 (with standard and 6x waist-level finders) against a variety of other Nikon 35mm SLRs, and the result is always the same.
So, what's up with that? Does the filter (IR or AA) ahead of the mirror change things n terms of where a lens focuses it image on the film plane / imager?
--Andrew