Compare to Sigma SD10....

going to point this out in another forum on this website. SD10 is
sharper than the majority of dslr cameras. Now the color thing, I
don't know what was done outside of what I'm seeing. I curious? The
colors are very good on the sd10. Especially for a camera that was
criticized by magazines for this..
Magazines can be very biased. SD10 colour at ISO 100 is wonderful. It is not enjoyed much by Americans because they want pinky skin and Kodachrome skies. Europeans who like golden skin and Fujichrome skies are happier! But... on topic.... the D7D has the best film-like colour I've seen of any DSLR shooting JPEGs. It is amazingly robust. I certainly intend to continue using SD10 and the new 5.1 megapixel version when that arrives, but I also plan to use D7D, and I am beginning to learn which will be better for particular subjects. The SD10 is known to be awesomely good for food shots but the D7D has already proved better for night shots, pets, wildlife.
 
The white area detail is present in the RAW files, as it is with the A2. Minolta's Dimage Viewer software is set up to clip what it considers to be unwanted highlight information, and I've run tests on the latest version, which is no different. Using Photoshop CS, a full two stops of additional highlight information can be recovered from A2 RAW files, which is not accessible at all through Dimage Viewer. Dalibor Jalinek's MRWFormat can access this data by clicking the MAX button. Canon's reserve of information is contained mainly in the shadow area, and it is possible to recover a good working file from a Canon 300D shot which is 3 to 4 stops underexposed. However, the tendency is for Canon DSLRs to overexpose, losing the highlight detail, unless the user deliberately sets -0.5 or even -1. The D7D gives about 0.3 stop less exposure on a typical TTL metered subject.

Really, we won't see what the D7D can do until we have either CS RAW updated, or the new Phase One C1 3.6 software, to go beyond the limitations of Dimage Viewer.

The high and lo tone matching settings shift the gamma of the RAW file and adjust exposure simultaneously, and they seem to work very well. You might not expect the RAW file to be affected, but it is, just like the JPEG. This gives a whole additional aspect to working with the camera. The high setting is perhaps the most useful.
I saw many samples from D7D. But around 80% of them do not have
detail in white area. And almost all white area are over-exposured.
But this is not caused by metering. From the samples of SD10 and
D7D, the same thing happens again. Please see the edge of the dish.

I am thinking that KM wants to boost the performance of noise
control but GREATLY reduces the dynamic range of D7D.

Acconding to user testing, it is only 7 stops for D7D. But it is 8
  • 9 stop for Canaon's DSLR.
D7D has something special to set for dynamic range (somethings
called high-key and low-key). It is obvious that D7D has limitation
so that this setting is required for special condition while other
dslrs do not need this setting. The information can be found in KM
web site.

Andy
 
kevin chua wrote:
Did a non-scientific test last night while I was shooting pics for
a restaurant using both cameras and studio flashes. It is not a
good comparison test as I just picked up both cameras and shoot
away rather than shot under control environment. I think Sigma
SD10 has a slight edge over my new toy. The fact that I have been
working with Sigma RAW for 2 years and shooting over 30,000 shots
I've heard 7D makes better ice-cream shots.
You should try shooting ice-creams and chocolate toppings ...
Strawberries would be nice too...

-- Tom Pariz
 
I'm concerned by David's comments below. I can't afford Photoshop CS in addition to this camera. I was hoping that the provided viewer software would be sufficient to take advantage of the extra dynamic range in the RAW file and allow me to output an appropriate image file for editing in PaintShopPro. However, the comment below that the additional range "is not accessible at all through Dimage Viewer" would seem to suggest this is not the case. Can anyone confirm this?
The white area detail is present in the RAW files, as it is with
the A2. Minolta's Dimage Viewer software is set up to clip what it
considers to be unwanted highlight information, and I've run tests
on the latest version, which is no different. Using Photoshop CS, a
full two stops of additional highlight information can be recovered
from A2 RAW files, which is not accessible at all through Dimage
Viewer. Dalibor Jalinek's MRWFormat can access this data by
clicking the MAX button. Canon's reserve of information is
contained mainly in the shadow area, and it is possible to recover
a good working file from a Canon 300D shot which is 3 to 4 stops
underexposed. However, the tendency is for Canon DSLRs to
overexpose, losing the highlight detail, unless the user
deliberately sets -0.5 or even -1. The D7D gives about 0.3 stop
less exposure on a typical TTL metered subject.
--
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Talk is cheap... if you want me to think as well...
 
I’m glad to see you around here. I found your posts at yahoo-MUG the most informative I have read recently. I hope you will stay here a bit longer ;)

--
7D dedicated website http://www.dyxum.com
 
I think if I had turn off NR, it may be a little better. Anyway, I will learn next time.



Kevin
kevin chua wrote:
Did a non-scientific test last night while I was shooting pics for
a restaurant using both cameras and studio flashes. It is not a
good comparison test as I just picked up both cameras and shoot
away rather than shot under control environment. I think Sigma
SD10 has a slight edge over my new toy. The fact that I have been
working with Sigma RAW for 2 years and shooting over 30,000 shots
I've heard 7D makes better ice-cream shots.
You should try shooting ice-creams and chocolate toppings ...
Strawberries would be nice too...

-- Tom Pariz
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Kevin Chua

Sigma SD10, SD9, SA-9, 15-30EX, 24-70EX, 50 Macro EX, 105 Macro EX, 70-200EX, 2X converter, 500DG Super SA, SA-N, Battery Grip.

Minolta 7D, 9, 7LE, 800Si, TC-1, XD-7.........
Various film cameras and equipment
 
Just found another shot on the bread that I forgot I took....any better?



Kevin
Did a non-scientific test last night while I was shooting pics for
a restaurant using both cameras and studio flashes. It is not a
good comparison test as I just picked up both cameras and shoot
away rather than shot under control environment. I think Sigma
SD10 has a slight edge over my new toy. The fact that I have been
working with Sigma RAW for 2 years and shooting over 30,000 shots
with SD9 and SD10 while I am new to the 7D RAW could also be a
major contributing factor. As I said before, my test is not good
enough for comparison.

Minolta 7D



Sigma SD10



I think I will stick to SD10 for product shots for the time being
until I become more acquainted with my 7D and its RAW.
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Kevin Chua

Sigma SD10, SD9, SA-9, 15-30EX, 24-70EX, 50 Macro EX, 105 Macro EX,
70-200EX, 2X converter, 500DG Super SA, SA-N, Battery Grip.

Minolta 7D, 9, 7LE, 800Si, TC-1, XD-7.........
Various film cameras and equipment
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Kevin Chua

Sigma SD10, SD9, SA-9, 15-30EX, 24-70EX, 50 Macro EX, 105 Macro EX, 70-200EX, 2X converter, 500DG Super SA, SA-N, Battery Grip.

Minolta 7D, 9, 7LE, 800Si, TC-1, XD-7.........
Various film cameras and equipment
 
I think if I had turn off NR, it may be a little better. Anyway, I
will learn next time.
Spot metering, my dear, that's the secret when shooting food pics.
And also use exposure compensation.
Plus, dim the lights, and go for lower shutter speeds -- food won't run away.
And your ice cream will be better than the real thing.

-- Tom Pariz
 
Thanks Tom for the tips, but I was already using spot metering with my Minolta Flash Meter III (I was using studio flash), the room is very small and confined and my Megablitz was already on low settings, the owner of the restaurant wished to have short DOF so I had to shoot wide open. The shot was taken with the Megablitz with softbox bouncing off the extremely low ceiling (I could not get the flash far enough away from the food because of the small room).

I think I will try -2EV with next time. I will shoot drinks this weekend, and hope I can get better result and bring the SD10 along just in case.

Kevin
I think if I had turn off NR, it may be a little better. Anyway, I
will learn next time.
Spot metering, my dear, that's the secret when shooting food pics.
And also use exposure compensation.
Plus, dim the lights, and go for lower shutter speeds -- food won't
run away.
And your ice cream will be better than the real thing.

-- Tom Pariz
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Kevin Chua

Sigma SD10, SD9, SA-9, 15-30EX, 24-70EX, 50 Macro EX, 105 Macro EX, 70-200EX, 2X converter, 500DG Super SA, SA-N, Battery Grip.

Minolta 7D, 9, 7LE, 800Si, TC-1, XD-7.........
Various film cameras and equipment
 
I think I will try -2EV with next time. I will shoot drinks this
weekend, and hope I can get better result and bring the SD10 along
just in case.
Kevin
Your Sigma takes better pics simply because you know how it works, and you know it well. 7 Digital is still new camera, and you're still exploring through it.
Normal process. It'll take some time before you know it properly.

Btw, for emphasized shallow DoF, maybe you can use Alien Skin's filters -- they have a nice options to blurr / defocus part of the picture (better than those options in Photoshop CS anyway).

I've tried them, on pics taken with A1, and they give great results.

-- Tom Pariz
 
Yup...it took me almost 3 months to get know the SD9 and Photopro well, it is only fair for spending some time to get use to the 7D. The 7D obviously can do things that I could never have done with my SD10 like ISO1600 and fast action stuff. I like both SD10 and 7D very much and will not give up either.

Kevin
Your Sigma takes better pics simply because you know how it works,
and you know it well. 7 Digital is still new camera, and you're
still exploring through it.
Normal process. It'll take some time before you know it properly.

Btw, for emphasized shallow DoF, maybe you can use Alien Skin's
filters -- they have a nice options to blurr / defocus part of the
picture (better than those options in Photoshop CS anyway).

I've tried them, on pics taken with A1, and they give great results.

-- Tom Pariz
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Kevin Chua

Sigma SD10, SD9, SA-9, 15-30EX, 24-70EX, 50 Macro EX, 105 Macro EX, 70-200EX, 2X converter, 500DG Super SA, SA-N, Battery Grip.

Minolta 7D, 9, 7LE, 800Si, TC-1, XD-7.........
Various film cameras and equipment
 
Thanks Tom for the tips, but I was already using spot metering with
my Minolta Flash Meter III (I was using studio flash), the room is
very small and confined and my Megablitz was already on low
settings, the owner of the restaurant wished to have short DOF so I
Hi Kevin,

thanks for the very interesting contributions, but one thing clicks oddly in my mind,

wouldn't incident metering be better than spot, so you don't have to adjust mentally for the added reflectance of the > grey values in the bowls / icecream?

dialling -2EV sounds about right, but if you have a shiny product to shoot like icecream condensating warm air as the shoot progresses, the specular "gloss" adds reflection, adds to what a spotmeter reads, slightly blows your readings. as Michael Reichmann on luminous landscape suggests in "expose to the right" DSLRs capture more detail when you place your exposure high on the capture bounds, so this could mean you want to be even more careful in your metering and may explain the "sharpness" differences between your sigma and the 7d. possibly that is, lots of variables to consider.

might you have instead used the probe attachment for your flashmeter?

also, how did you process the D7 RAW? I am awaiting one and am really confused as to whether RAW support for the 7D even exists outside the plugin cited frequently in this and other threads.

thanks again, one of the most interesting threads here since i've been reading / lurking!

JK
 
HI JK,

Thanks, I will try to meter the way you descrbed in my upcoming session. I think I had to adjust quite a bit for 7D. Coming from SD10, I can under or over expose 3-6 stops and still get the picture back with the X3F RAW. I have relied on this feature of Sigma Photopro quite a bit in the past. I guess I should try to expose more corredtly.

I am still using the Dimage viewer to convert the RAW which I don't like as much as Sigma PhotoPro....I think the new PhaseOne as well as Minolta's own Dimage Master should be quite good. As far as the Adobe RAW is concern......I am not sure if like it as I have always been spoiled by the Sigma PhotoPro.

Kevin
Hi Kevin,

thanks for the very interesting contributions, but one thing clicks
oddly in my mind,

wouldn't incident metering be better than spot, so you don't have
to adjust mentally for the added reflectance of the > grey values in
the bowls / icecream?

dialling -2EV sounds about right, but if you have a shiny product
to shoot like icecream condensating warm air as the shoot
progresses, the specular "gloss" adds reflection, adds to what a
spotmeter reads, slightly blows your readings. as Michael Reichmann
on luminous landscape suggests in "expose to the right" DSLRs
capture more detail when you place your exposure high on the
capture bounds, so this could mean you want to be even more careful
in your metering and may explain the "sharpness" differences
between your sigma and the 7d. possibly that is, lots of variables
to consider.

might you have instead used the probe attachment for your flashmeter?

also, how did you process the D7 RAW? I am awaiting one and am
really confused as to whether RAW support for the 7D even exists
outside the plugin cited frequently in this and other threads.

thanks again, one of the most interesting threads here since i've
been reading / lurking!

JK
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Kevin Chua

Sigma SD10, SD9, SA-9, 15-30EX, 24-70EX, 50 Macro EX, 105 Macro EX, 70-200EX, 2X converter, 500DG Super SA, SA-N, Battery Grip.

Minolta 7D, 9, 7LE, 800Si, TC-1, XD-7.........
Various film cameras and equipment
 


Very different in operation as compare to SD10.
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Kevin Chua

Sigma SD10, SD9, SA-9, 15-30EX, 24-70EX, 50 Macro EX, 105 Macro EX, 70-200EX, 2X converter, 500DG Super SA, SA-N, Battery Grip.

Minolta 7D, 9, 7LE, 800Si, TC-1, XD-7.........
Various film cameras and equipment
 
Hi again Kevin,

really appreciate your RAW comments, thank you.

I have two further thoughts :

1) not knowing your meter model, does it have a flash / ambient mode so you can check that you are measuring the difference between flash and background light exposure? I've found that absent such a feature you need to meter under ambient light and subtract that value from flash readings to get a proper exposure. There is always a risk that over such a short burst duration the meter reading is biased to the flash output and ignored other light which risks overexposure.

By "rule of thumb" I mentally loose .5EV from the ambient in the above calculation and find this works well expecially if I spot the low-EV keytones under ambient first i.e. i choose what colors I want to emphasise and try to expose best / emphasise them in the combined ambient+flash calculation. Saying that, using film mostly, i would then have to factor in the values for EI vs ISO i am using to fit a color curve to the film I chose. These are experiences from Kodachrome, but seem to work well with testing with other film and digital. (I do not own a digital back, but have used several in the past two years, not bought one because i foudn that "dialling out" all the corrections to fit with my methodology was not a time investment i wanted to make just yet)

A Good Idea [TM] might be to revisit your client and ask if you could run some more tests and offer them the output for free. If you are doing this often - similar clients, similar shots - refining your technique could really add to your sales.

2) When you "go back" to use a Macro, bear in mind that they are optimised for near distance planar sharpness. If your client wants nice OOF blending ("bokeh") maybe you could composite two shots taken from the same tripod view. Only problem with this is that even if you have the same focal length for both lenses (Macro / "nice bokeh lens") you still have to remember that focussing does change the focal length and so you may have to compensate for geometry. This is a reason why cinematographers usually have a collimator to hand to check their lenses' current performance . . . A thought, a caveat, a challenge.

finally and incidentally, does your Sigma work nicely with AIS manual lenses? I would be interested to own one if it did, have heretically considered selling out of my Minolta gear (OK, not entirely!!) to get a D2H/X for that reason (AIS compatibility) alone.

cheers,

good talking to you!

JK
Thanks, I will try to meter the way you descrbed in my upcoming
session. I think I had to adjust quite a bit for 7D. Coming from
SD10, I can under or over expose 3-6 stops and still get the
picture back with the X3F RAW. I have relied on this feature of
Sigma Photopro quite a bit in the past. I guess I should try to
expose more corredtly.

I am still using the Dimage viewer to convert the RAW which I don't
like as much as Sigma PhotoPro....I think the new PhaseOne as well
as Minolta's own Dimage Master should be quite good. As far as the
Adobe RAW is concern......I am not sure if like it as I have always
been spoiled by the Sigma PhotoPro.

Kevin
Hi Kevin,

thanks for the very interesting contributions, but one thing clicks
oddly in my mind,

wouldn't incident metering be better than spot, so you don't have
to adjust mentally for the added reflectance of the > grey values in
the bowls / icecream?

dialling -2EV sounds about right, but if you have a shiny product
to shoot like icecream condensating warm air as the shoot
progresses, the specular "gloss" adds reflection, adds to what a
spotmeter reads, slightly blows your readings. as Michael Reichmann
on luminous landscape suggests in "expose to the right" DSLRs
capture more detail when you place your exposure high on the
capture bounds, so this could mean you want to be even more careful
in your metering and may explain the "sharpness" differences
between your sigma and the 7d. possibly that is, lots of variables
to consider.

might you have instead used the probe attachment for your flashmeter?

also, how did you process the D7 RAW? I am awaiting one and am
really confused as to whether RAW support for the 7D even exists
outside the plugin cited frequently in this and other threads.

thanks again, one of the most interesting threads here since i've
been reading / lurking!

JK
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Kevin Chua

Sigma SD10, SD9, SA-9, 15-30EX, 24-70EX, 50 Macro EX, 105 Macro EX,
70-200EX, 2X converter, 500DG Super SA, SA-N, Battery Grip.

Minolta 7D, 9, 7LE, 800Si, TC-1, XD-7.........
Various film cameras and equipment
 
Hi Kevin!

it really did occur to me that the guys and gals suggesting you use a plugin to blur backgrounds rather than shoot shallow were on to something. I almost never saw a food shot that used OOF creatively and which scored well against a "sparkling sharp" shot in study groups of prospective customers. Very good that the client has an idea, but aesthetically when i look at your shots, i see Christmas as the main theme. As an AdMan, this is what draws occasional clientelle to a restaurant - i.e. street walkers may have not noticed a restaurant but thought it looks nice, then for a occasion they decide to wander in. Now the occasion is definately Christmas. So emphasise this. It's the restaurateur's job to convert them to be regulars, but it's the event or occasion that triggers the "impluse" to book a table. So i think that the restaurateur is not thinking what triggers customer impulse and by making the event de-emphasised in the photos is missing something they could place better in front of house and window display. Sure, keep the shallow DOF for internal menus and give people a "fuzzy" and emotive reminder of why there are there, but for display, I would opt for clean sharp shots. Could you not pitch for both? That's either extra billings for you or some extra word of mouth goodness if your client appreciates the ideas.

. . . from my experience of restaurants and clients and what I'd like, that is :-)
 
Hi Tom,
1) not knowing your meter model, does it have a flash / ambient
mode so you can check that you are measuring the difference between
flash and background light exposure? I've found that absent such a
feature you need to meter under ambient light and subtract that
value from flash readings to get a proper exposure. There is always
a risk that over such a short burst duration the meter reading is
biased to the flash output and ignored other light which risks
overexposure.
I use a very old Minolta Flash Meter III and I only took the flash sync reading as I thought the room was so small and confined, the ambient light would not matter as the room would be completely light up by the studio flash even at the lowest setting. I use to do this with Slide and Mamiya 645 as well as Dynax 9 and it seems to work fined, but I guess the Agfa RSXII has more tolerance than I thought. I will try to take readings from the ambient light next try.
By "rule of thumb" I mentally loose .5EV from the ambient in the
above calculation and find this works well expecially if I spot the
low-EV keytones under ambient first i.e. i choose what colors I
want to emphasise and try to expose best / emphasise them in the
combined ambient+flash calculation. Saying that, using film mostly,
i would then have to factor in the values for EI vs ISO i am using
to fit a color curve to the film I chose. These are experiences
from Kodachrome, but seem to work well with testing with other film
and digital. (I do not own a digital back, but have used several in
the past two years, not bought one because i foudn that "dialling
out" all the corrections to fit with my methodology was not a time
investment i wanted to make just yet)

A Good Idea [TM] might be to revisit your client and ask if you
could run some more tests and offer them the output for free. If
you are doing this often - similar clients, similar shots -
refining your technique could really add to your sales.

2) When you "go back" to use a Macro, bear in mind that they are
optimised for near distance planar sharpness. If your client wants
nice OOF blending ("bokeh") maybe you could composite two shots
taken from the same tripod view. Only problem with this is that
even if you have the same focal length for both lenses (Macro /
"nice bokeh lens") you still have to remember that focussing does
change the focal length and so you may have to compensate for
geometry. This is a reason why cinematographers usually have a
collimator to hand to check their lenses' current performance . . .
A thought, a caveat, a challenge.
Good suggestions, I will give it a try. Thanks
finally and incidentally, does your Sigma work nicely with AIS
manual lenses? I would be interested to own one if it did, have
heretically considered selling out of my Minolta gear (OK, not
entirely!!) to get a D2H/X for that reason (AIS compatibility)
alone.
I think a Japanese company has just released a Nikon-F mount to Sigma mount where only Manual focus is available. I think AIS mount and F mount should be the same when in Manual focus and with this type mount, you have to stop-down metering anyway, so this might work for you. I am also considering in getting this mount as I still have quite a few AI mount lenses that I still use with my F2A and F3. I have tried the M42 to Sigma from the same company and works really well. BTW, this company is also working on a Canon-EOS mount to Sigma mount with full auto focus and metering capabilities.

The web address is: http://www.d-shell.net








cheers,

good talking to you!

JK
Good talking to you too.

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Kevin Chua

Sigma SD10, SD9, SA-9, 15-30EX, 24-70EX, 50 Macro EX, 105 Macro EX, 70-200EX, 2X converter, 500DG Super SA, SA-N, Battery Grip.

Minolta 7D, 9, 7LE, 800Si, TC-1, XD-7.........
Various film cameras and equipment
 
John, actually, but no offense, Tom's another family name :)
I use a very old Minolta Flash Meter III and I only took the flash
sync reading as I thought the room was so small and confined, the
ambient light would not matter as the room would be completely
light up by the studio flash even at the lowest setting. I use to
do this with Slide and Mamiya 645 as well as Dynax 9 and it seems
to work fined, but I guess the Agfa RSXII has more tolerance than I
thought. I will try to take readings from the ambient light next
try.
Nothing wrong with a 'meter III, really nice kit. I think even Minolta fail to get the ergonomics right when they integrate too many functions. The VI is great, but it's too modal - luminance ranging is excellent, so is automatic flash/ambient and not having to carrymy Spot F, but one mistake and . .. . I looked at the Sekonic L-588R in the shop recently and think it's a more logical design.

I love RSXII - great film, especially at 50ASA and the '200 does push, but not as nicely as Provia 400F by my aesthetics. Wouldn't use Provia for product shots though.

The thing i think you're up against is the "hard shoulder" of digital sensors. Film looses response more slowly as it is over / under. It's been mooted that KM interpret sensor data for color rather than DR. Last year on a Yahoo! group I postulated that KM would aim for film like response curves, a soft shoulder. MY impression is that they tried, but have not been entirely successful. If yoou think of the market for the D7, you might agree with me that your work is more demanding than that for whichthe D7 is positioned. But I don't expect any definitive answer from Langenhagen. A neighbor of mine has been pestering Bernard Petticue of Minolta Silver Halide UK for more and more info (yes, the Halide department is the correct one for the D7 iin the UK at least) and notwithstanding their very real gentlemanly openness, nothing forthcoming :(

With film, you can always look at the data sheet for the curves. Why can't we have the same data for CCDs? My potted answer is that too much "hard data" is in the transforms the camera performs, and there would be a risk, where CCDs / CMOS are commodity items, of a competitor reverse engineering a "D7" mode, just like the Fuji cameras emulate approximations of film curves as a user settable feature (which is where i hope the industry will lean from now on).

But my point is - without knowing those curves, how can one reliable control one's exposure - there's no adequate reference point. One trades this against flexibility in RAW processing, but that means that few short of DSP experts can see sufficiently through the arcana to develop techniques divergent from what I see as a "dedicated purpose" positioning of current DSLRs in the imaging chain. All of which is very good for sales, but leaves us analog guys struggling to parlay our old practises to the new paradigm.

I'll give an example of the paradigm problem - often, and even for portraiture, i like to push Portra 400NC +1, and in my processing chain I get a really different cyan shift without loosing skin tones. That's a function of the response curves of Portra. Now, how can i do the same with a digital camera? My current answer is I can't else I risk clipping even using 16bpp in Eclipse or PS CS (Eclipse blows CS away for 16bpp work, as it has always been fully 16bpp).

I do get the feeling that the new "science" is being explored by users now rather than the technicians in Kodak / Fuji / Agfa labs - we don't get useful data from which to refine our intent, we get a tool instead where we can "afford" to experiment. Unless on a big demanding shoot, that is.

Now, I am not complaining. But sometimes I suspect my argument is not very far from the reasons KM were so "late" to market. I even speculate that by "hanging us out to dry" they ensured that they'd get substantial detailed feedback in quantity, and by delaying, most KM professional owners would have experienced other systems and have detailed comparisons to offer. If so, very clever, if frustrating :-)

Anyway, point to remember is that I think you are way better off using your Flash Meter III than inbuilt meters, not just because it is the correct technique in your shoot environment, but because DSLR meters are still the same (unless you can correct this) as those from their halide eating brethren. (I wonder how Leica will deal with this in their sometime coming back for the R8/9 . . it would be one reason i might think to delay that product, though i've no real intelligent comment further)
Good suggestions, I will give it a try. Thanks
Cheers, and good shooting!
I think a Japanese company has just released a Nikon-F mount to
Sigma mount where only Manual focus is available. I think AIS
mount and F mount should be the same when in Manual focus and
Wow! That was really useful, thank you! Thanks also for not embarassing me that the Sigma takes Sigma mount. I was half thinking of the Kodak 14, which I used recently.

This really suggests the Sigma is a very useful tool. Pity that I bought recently an Angenieux zoom in Minolta A mount, as AIS / F mounts much easier to come by. Amazing lens the Angenieux incidentally.

Final thought - do you think you could post a link to a RAW of one of your icecrea shots, so I could have a look at it in P'shop with the plugin converter? I'd really like to look at the base histograms to see what you're dealing with, and see if i can get creative with tone masking to bring back some extra highlights. My workflow is very calibrated. Currently using an Eizo CG21 which blows away my ageing Barco for fidelity.
Good talking to you too.
Until the next time! Hope things are going well. And thanks so much again again for the adapter link.

bye for now,

-- JK
 
I think that the KM 7d may have a problem picking up details in the white areas. I'm seeing this alot with pictures that are being posted on this forum..Looking at Kevin's ice cream shot, he had to over expose it just to get some details in the whites..I'm begining to wonder, is it just about understanding the 'new' camera, or a technical problem from KM's part?


Very different in operation as compare to SD10.
--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Kevin Chua

Sigma SD10, SD9, SA-9, 15-30EX, 24-70EX, 50 Macro EX, 105 Macro EX,
70-200EX, 2X converter, 500DG Super SA, SA-N, Battery Grip.

Minolta 7D, 9, 7LE, 800Si, TC-1, XD-7.........
Various film cameras and equipment
 

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