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Suggestions for Istanbul, Turkey

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timpdx

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Of course I know all of the "must-see" sites from the tourist books, but is there anything else I should see? Anything to be careful about as an American? I know you cannot take photos of people in prayer in a Mosque, but the architecture is fine to shoot? Will Ramadan change any schedules of major tourist sites?

--
http://www.pixelmap.com
 
I was in Turkey during Ramadan in 2002 and did not have any trouble, although the visitor opening times for the larger mosques were more limited. Most have tourist times between the main prayers, and that's when you'll be welcome in.

As long as you're flexible this should not be a problem - just visit the mosque first when you're exploring the neighborhood around, and plan the visit to the neighborhood around these open hours. Photography inside (no flash) was allowed when I was there in '02.

Ramadan should not change the schedule for other tourist sites. Also, restaurants are typically open and serving food except when far off the beaten track.

Being careful in Istanbul is the same as for any other major world city. There are more touts for shops (particularly carpet shops), which can create a hassle. If you do want to buy carpets, do some research for the more reputable and reasonably priced shops before you go. If a tout brings you into a shop, they will typically get a % of the sale, so the price you can negotiate will be higher than if you visit a reputable shop on your own (armed with price information). On the other hand, if you do want to buy carpets, some of the independent-agent touts speak good English/German/French/Russian/etc and will offer to take you on tours of the city with the understanding that you'll go with them to a carpet shop later. Once in the shop it will be high-pressure sales. Up to you if this is something you want to do.
 
Other tips (from someone who has only visited once - others may have more/better info for you):
  • Definitely try not to stick out too much or display flashy gear (put the L in the bag when not in use). Be vigilent against pickpockets. Nothing special vs other travel destinations, really.
  • I would not be spending much time in the vicinity of the Embassies in town due to terrorist risk.
  • The local people were very friendly and helpful. I asked for help/directions/recommendations on many occasions and have nothing but positive memories.
  • Women should dress conservatively, particularly for mosque visits. This is less a consideration in Turkey than in many other predominantly Islamic nations, but it is the respectful thing to do. It is also easier this time of year when there's little need for shorts/miniskirts. Bringing a scarf for head-cover is optional, as most of the larger mosques offer a head covering for visitors.
  • If you want to go up the Bosphorus, consider hiring a boat rather than taking the ferry. They'll get you closer to shore at your own pace and will make stops for you. The cost is considerably higher than the (very cheap) ferries, but the convenience and number/quality of photo ops will increase. Consider hooking up with other foreign tourists at the hotel to split the cost if you're traveling alone or on a tight budget.
To find these boats, just head to the ferry terminal on the golden horn that has ferries up the Bosphorus, and the boatmen will find you. Mid-morning is a good time. Be sure to negotiate price, as well as the # of hours. 1/2 day would be ok to go as far as the European/Asian fortresses and visiting a town or two on the Asian side. If you want to go all the way to the Black Sea, plan a whole day.
  • Consider a Turkish bath. Çemberlitaş Hamamı is steeped in history and gets a mix of tourist and local business. This may be one of the best experiences for the least money you can do in town.
  • During Ramadan (maybe other times as well) there are food stalls and shops set up in the Hippodrome that open at dusk (the end of the day's fasting). This is a great place for people watching, food, and music. Consider bringing a fast lens (one of the fast 50s or a wider angle) to capture some of this. You'll also want a fast lens for the covered and spice bazaars.
  • The former church will all the mosaics intact (Chora Church/Kariye Museum) is a bit hard to find and many cabs don't know how to get there (our driver asked 4 others and only the 4th knew about it). When going if you're going to take a taxi (and they are quite convenient and cheap), consider giving them two cross street names at a main intersection and walking a few blocks - it's not off the main E-W avenue as I recall.
Good photo ops here, but again, you'll want a relatively fast lens and perhaps even a tripod. I recall there may be additional entry charges or limits on tripod use at this and other tourist sites. I'd recommend bringing one small enough to keep in a bag unless you are permitted to use it to avoid any potential hassles.
  • Speaking of fast lenses and tripods, Aya Sofia is particularly dim, and the interior of the dome is faaaar overhead. The Blue Mosque and Suleymaniye are less so. If you want to keep the ISO down a bit I'd recommend tripod for Aya Sofia, but not needed (probably not permitted) in the mosques.
One trick I have used with P&S digitals is to lay them on the ground pointing up to get good dome shots. This was particularly helpful in Chora because of the amazing detail on the ceilings. Not sure how steady the DReb is when laying on it's LCD (haven't tried laying mine down), but you may want to experiment before you go (perhaps laying on a cloth or small pad). This will get you the interesting ceilings without the need for a tripod and complex contortions to aim straight up.
  • The sun will be lower on the horizon in the south, so photos of Sultanahmet will be tough from Galata Tower (normally a good vantage). If you're going to shoot the old town from here, bring a lens hood and consider time of day (in the morning the sun will be behind the Topkapi end, in the evening it will be behind and to the west of Suleymaniye).
  • The mosques will be lit up at night (maybe always true) consider some night shots from a good vantage point with a tripod. There are a few places with rooftop terrace restaurants that might be a good bet - particularly around the Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet).
  • If you visit the big cistern in Sultanahmet (recommended), bring a tripod. Interesting sights/perspectives down there, but it's quite dim.
  • Consider a day trip to Izmir/Ephesus if you have the time. There are several small tour companies who will pick you up from the Izmir airport and drive you around the historic sites in the area. We did this (my wife and I, picked up by a guide in a car - great to have some 2:1 time to discuss history, culture, politics). Highly recommended if you can spare the day.
  • Galata Bridge fisherman (and fisherman at spots all along the Bosphoros) would be interesting subjects if you like people shots/candids.
  • Spend some time just wandering. We walked through the neighborhood between the Theodosian walls near the Golden Horn down to the cast iron church. It was around midday and school children on a break from classes would approach us to practice their English.
  • The food. What great food. There are many photo opportunities with the variety and colors of the food throughout the city. Not to mention the eating opportunities.
This is such a beautiful and accessible city. You'll have a great time. Hope the info is helpful.
  • TK
 
Thank you for the detailed list. I'll be bringing my 300D with the 50mm 1.8, the IS 28-135 and the kit lens. I will also have my Sony 707 which works well for using on the floor shooting straight up, I did that technique in Rome with success. I have five full days in the city, so I should be able to see everything even if hours are restricted.

I leave in a few hours, glad you reponded, thanks.

--
http://www.pixelmap.com
 
lptk said:
  • Definitely try not to stick out too much or display flashy gear
(put the L in the bag when not in use). Be vigilent against
pickpockets. Nothing special vs other travel destinations, really.
  • I would not be spending much time in the vicinity of the
Embassies in town due to terrorist risk.
  • The local people were very friendly and helpful. I asked for
help/directions/recommendations on many occasions and have nothing
but positive memories.
  • Women should dress conservatively, particularly for mosque
visits. This is less a consideration in Turkey than in many other
predominantly Islamic nations, but it is the respectful thing to
do. It is also easier this time of year when there's little need
for shorts/miniskirts. Bringing a scarf for head-cover is optional,
as most of the larger mosques offer a head covering for visitors.
  • If you want to go up the Bosphorus, consider hiring a boat rather
than taking the ferry. They'll get you closer to shore at your own
pace and will make stops for you. The cost is considerably higher
than the (very cheap) ferries, but the convenience and
number/quality of photo ops will increase. Consider hooking up with
other foreign tourists at the hotel to split the cost if you're
traveling alone or on a tight budget.
To find these boats, just head to the ferry terminal on the golden
horn that has ferries up the Bosphorus, and the boatmen will find
you. Mid-morning is a good time. Be sure to negotiate price, as
well as the # of hours. 1/2 day would be ok to go as far as the
European/Asian fortresses and visiting a town or two on the Asian
side. If you want to go all the way to the Black Sea, plan a whole
day.
  • Consider a Turkish bath. Çemberlitaş Hamamı is steeped
in history and gets a mix of tourist and local business. This may
be one of the best experiences for the least money you can do in
town.

Wow, some great advice!! I was there in 1987 as part of a backpacking trip around Europe with a childhood friend of mine. Definitely try and get to Ephesus! The ruins there are amazing and far more spectacular in my opinion , than the ruins in Rome. Lots of wonderful photo ops!! I'll have to try and dig out some of the photos I took while in Turkey. The Grand Bazzar in Istanbul is awesome also. it's an indoor market where they sell all sorts of items. Lots of colour, textures and action there so you should get some great shots and may be even a good deal or two! If memory serves me, the Bazzar was not all that well lit but there were places were a beam of sunshine would filter in and create a really interesting effect. Man, wish I could go back there now and take some shots! Back then , I was not all that interested in photography and just took the usual tourist type shots!
Click to expand...
snaphappy1
 
...but our hotel did warn us specifically about this particular hazard. One of our party, however, did not heed the advice to leave her valuables in the room-safe and, sure enough, her bag was snatched, along with her passport, all her TCs, and even some solid silver family heirlooms!

Four of us were on the way back to our hotel just before midnight after visiting a restaurant when we got a bit lost in some pretty deserted backstreets. A young man eventually crossed our path so we asked him for directions and he showed us the way to the main street, which wasn't far. We thanked him and parted. There were a few more people on this street and he seemed to be going our way too but some distance from us.

In hindsight I should perhaps have realised that he was gradually walking closer and closer to us as we proceeded, but we'd had a few drinks and we were all a bit tired, and the street was quite busy by now, so I didn't really notice this till he was right next to my friend, by which time it was too late -- snatch, turn, run! A few shouts and I found myself running after as fast as I could (definitely not recommended!). I soon lost count of how many alleys we zigzagged down, but I managed to keep up fairly well till we rounded a taxi disgorging customers that almost blocked our way and he did yet another turn down an even narrower alley. I turned into it and kept going, but this time guided only by his footsteps -- it was pitch black! Time to stop, so I did, the sound of my panting accompanied by dogs barking and his echoing footsteps fading into the distance.

The evening was topped off by an interesting 3 hour visit to a very photogenic Turkish police station.

Bon voyage!

Dafydd
 
Dafydd said:
...but our hotel did warn us specifically about this particular
hazard. One of our party, however, did not heed the advice to leave
her valuables in the room-safe and, sure enough, her bag was
snatched, along with her passport, all her TCs, and even some solid
silver family heirlooms!

Four of us were on the way back to our hotel just before midnight
after visiting a restaurant when we got a bit lost in some pretty
deserted backstreets. A young man eventually crossed our path so we
asked him for directions and he showed us the way to the main
street, which wasn't far. We thanked him and parted. There were a
few more people on this street and he seemed to be going our way
too but some distance from us.

In hindsight I should perhaps have realised that he was gradually
walking closer and closer to us as we proceeded, but we'd had a few
drinks and we were all a bit tired, and the street was quite busy
by now, so I didn't really notice this till he was right next to my
friend, by which time it was too late -- snatch, turn, run! A few
shouts and I found myself running after as fast as I could
(definitely not recommended!). I soon lost count of how many alleys
we zigzagged down, but I managed to keep up fairly well till we
rounded a taxi disgorging customers that almost blocked our way and
he did yet another turn down an even narrower alley. I turned into
it and kept going, but this time guided only by his footsteps -- it
was pitch black! Time to stop, so I did, the sound of my panting
accompanied by dogs barking and his echoing footsteps fading into
the distance.

The evening was topped off by an interesting 3 hour visit to a very
photogenic Turkish police station.

Bon voyage!

Dafydd
Click to expand...
Wow, that sucks. You have one hell of a story though!

I only have experience with Russian, Hungarian and Slovakian police (never all the way to the station though - i'm so jealous). ;-)

I must say, we do try to avoid any situation where we'd be severely bummed about the loss of a bag. My wife and I each carry our own passport, and a color copy of the significant pages of the other's. Also the address/phone of wherever we're staying. If the camera's with us, it's in a bag with a secure strap (across the chest), usually filled CF cards in the other's bag.

That way, we can lose one passport, as well as either the camera or the pics taken so far, but not both the cam and the pics. All valuables are left at home.

There's so much to enjoy while traveling that I find it most relaxing when a few precautions protect against catastrophic problems. That way there are no real worries to detract from the experience. Or maybe I'm just too lazy to chase thieves?

Life's too short for worries.
  • TK
 
timpdx said:
Of course I know all of the "must-see" sites from the tourist
books, but is there anything else I should see? Anything to be
careful about as an American? I know you cannot take photos of
people in prayer in a Mosque, but the architecture is fine to
shoot? Will Ramadan change any schedules of major tourist sites?

--
http://www.pixelmap.com
Click to expand...
There is a fish market on the Bosphorous, near the Sultanamet section of the city (old town), across the main highway. It is quite immense, many good photo ops. We went on a Sunday because the Bazaar and Spice Market are closed then. You can walk along the Bosphorous for a long way and see many interesting sights. I forgot my camera that day and was seriously bummed.

Also, near the Hippodrome, is a restaurant called the "World Famous Pudding Shop." We ate there twice and it was quite good. It is a traditional Turkish restaurant where you point to your food, cafeteria-style. We had the Doner Kebap, which is the meat shaved off the rotisserie and served with flat bread, tomatoes and onions. The restaurant next door (left) is not as famous and has fewer clientele, but I thought had better food.

We just returned from there last week and felt quite safe, they like Americans there. We had no problems at all. You will love Turkey.
 
RileyDog said:
Also, near the Hippodrome, is a restaurant called the "World Famous Pudding Shop."
Click to expand...
Amazed and pleased to hear it's still going, so I looked it up:

http://www.puddingshop.com

I remember arriving there ravenously hungry with only Iranian cash in my pocket back in 1975. I'd tried and failed to exchange it for hours, but the people running the Pudding Shop just accepted it without a second thought. A prime example of a pre-internet meeting place and world-famous bulletin board!

Dafydd
 
İ am at an internet cafe and just thought İ would check here for any more suggestıons. İstanbul ıs an iıncredible city wıth much to photograph. Thanks again for the suggestions. I wıll try to find the fish market. It ıs very safe here by the way just take the same precautıons you would ın NYC or London but I carrıed my MF gear and 300D all over the place wıth no trouble. but the MF camera does get some stares. Nice people and great food here.
Dafydd said:
RileyDog said:
Also, near the Hippodrome, is a restaurant called the "World Famous Pudding Shop."
Click to expand...
Amazed and pleased to hear it's still going, so I looked it up:

http://www.puddingshop.com
I remember arriving there ravenously hungry with only Iranian cash
in my pocket back in 1975. I'd tried and failed to exchange it for
hours, but the people running the Pudding Shop just accepted it
without a second thought. A prime example of a pre-internet meeting
place and world-famous bulletin board!

Dafydd
Click to expand...
--
http://www.pixelmap.com
 
Let us know what else you are seeing and post some pics!
timpdx said:
Dafydd said:
RileyDog said:
Also, near the Hippodrome, is a restaurant called the "World Famous Pudding Shop."
Click to expand...
Amazed and pleased to hear it's still going, so I looked it up:

http://www.puddingshop.com
I remember arriving there ravenously hungry with only Iranian cash
in my pocket back in 1975. I'd tried and failed to exchange it for
hours, but the people running the Pudding Shop just accepted it
without a second thought. A prime example of a pre-internet meeting
place and world-famous bulletin board!

Dafydd
Click to expand...
--
http://www.pixelmap.com
Click to expand...
--
best regards,
RileyDog
 
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