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Don't do weddings any more. When I did, I used Nikon and
Hassalblad, then Leica gear. Have now moved to an A2 and am
getting rid of all my film gear.
Thoughts on plusses and minuses of using an A2 for a wedding:
+) Minimizes the amount of gear you need to bring, as you won't
need to deal with lens changes.
-) You really need a wide-angle adapter, as IMHO a 28mm equivalent
isn't wide enough for documentary style wedding coverage. Not a
deal killer, but adds to the complexity.
+) The wireless flash is WONDERFUL. It's not instant, and seems to
have more lag than the 1/30s my Hasselblads used to have, so might
create some issues with "blinky" brides, but 3 5600 flashes would
ROCK for portable wedding lighting. Really -- don't underestimate
this.
+) Anti-shake means it'll be easier to use longer lenses and
tighter crops. For low-light Leica-style shooting, 1/15s
reasonably sharp photos are do-able with 35mm and 50mm lenses, but
it'd be nice to be able to shoot 1/15s at longer focal lengths. In
my experience, it's hard to find moments that last longer than that
(1/6s might be shake-free, but you're gonna have to deal with
subject movement).
-) It seems there's more lag between pressing the shutter release
and the time the lens stops down and actually takes the picture. I
haven't done any testing here, it's just the way it "feels."
+) Image quality is as good as with 35mm, even with higher ISOs
(compare 800 ASA to Fuji NHG-II whick is considered "excellent"
grain at 800 ASA -- you digital guys are spoiled.)
+ -) Depth of field is a mxed blessing. It's easier to get wide
DOF for shots with everything in focus, but it's much harder to use
selective DOF to isolate a subject against an ugly background you
have no control over. Maybe photoshop is a way to compensate.
Right now, it looks like this means that the procession shots can
be done well at wide apertures (versus the f8 required on a
Hasselblad), but there's nothing to compare with an 85/75mm f1.4
shot wide-open for really short DOF portraits. Personally, I
really like the short DOF effect.
-) Buffer is limited to 3 RAW shots in a row before they need to be
written to disk. That's not bad, but there are times when you'll
want to shoot faster than that (even with manual wind). You'll
need to teach yourself to only use that 3rd shot on the rare
occasion when it's actually required.
+) Cost. Film and processing ain't cheap. Digital (once you get
past buying the camera, flash cards, computer, printer) is. I used
to spend over $1,000 per wedding on lab fees.
+) Flex focusing. Nice to be able to focus anywhere on screen,
versus the F5's 5 focus points (or the Leica's one).
+) Low-light EVF. I like the B&W low-light composition. Beats a
dim view of the scene any day.
+) Autometering. Better than the F5 offered; few occasions where
manual seems to work better. I guess incorporating the live
histogram into the metering algorithm really helps.
-) Image storage. You're going to need something (preferably 2
things) to store shot images. It's hard to beat throwing the shot
film cartridge in a 1 gallon zip-lock bag.
+) Silence. Turn off the gimmicky "shutter noise" and you'll have
a silent camera. Nice for ceremonies and toasts and whatnot.
Frankly, I would not recommend using digicams. Though the A series
would do a little better, it still has the following problems:
Shutter lag
High noise above iso 200
Does not look competent (guests will have better cameras)
Less ability for shallow depth of field
If you plan to photograph weddings on a regular basis, a true DSLR
with an APS-sized sensor is important to have. Overall low light
performance is better, image quality is better, and so on. Such
cameras can now be had for less than $1000.
Having said that, I think that knowledge of photography and
proficiency in camera use are more important than what camera you
use but the higher end DSLR's will give you significantly better
tools to work with.
Here is an example of an image I took with my 7HI at a wedding
about a year ago using the built in off camera flash ability. In
other words, on board flash fill with off camera main:
![]()
--
Vance Zachary
http://www.pbase.com/photoworkszach
http://www.photoworksbyzachary.com
Don't do weddings any more. When I did, I used Nikon and
Hassalblad, then Leica gear. Have now moved to an A2 and am
getting rid of all my film gear.
Thoughts on plusses and minuses of using an A2 for a wedding:
+) Minimizes the amount of gear you need to bring, as you won't
need to deal with lens changes.
-) You really need a wide-angle adapter, as IMHO a 28mm equivalent
isn't wide enough for documentary style wedding coverage. Not a
deal killer, but adds to the complexity.
+) The wireless flash is WONDERFUL. It's not instant, and seems to
have more lag than the 1/30s my Hasselblads used to have, so might
create some issues with "blinky" brides, but 3 5600 flashes would
ROCK for portable wedding lighting. Really -- don't underestimate
this.
+) Anti-shake means it'll be easier to use longer lenses and
tighter crops. For low-light Leica-style shooting, 1/15s
reasonably sharp photos are do-able with 35mm and 50mm lenses, but
it'd be nice to be able to shoot 1/15s at longer focal lengths. In
my experience, it's hard to find moments that last longer than that
(1/6s might be shake-free, but you're gonna have to deal with
subject movement).
-) It seems there's more lag between pressing the shutter release
and the time the lens stops down and actually takes the picture. I
haven't done any testing here, it's just the way it "feels."
+) Image quality is as good as with 35mm, even with higher ISOs
(compare 800 ASA to Fuji NHG-II whick is considered "excellent"
grain at 800 ASA -- you digital guys are spoiled.)
+ -) Depth of field is a mxed blessing. It's easier to get wide
DOF for shots with everything in focus, but it's much harder to use
selective DOF to isolate a subject against an ugly background you
have no control over. Maybe photoshop is a way to compensate.
Right now, it looks like this means that the procession shots can
be done well at wide apertures (versus the f8 required on a
Hasselblad), but there's nothing to compare with an 85/75mm f1.4
shot wide-open for really short DOF portraits. Personally, I
really like the short DOF effect.
-) Buffer is limited to 3 RAW shots in a row before they need to be
written to disk. That's not bad, but there are times when you'll
want to shoot faster than that (even with manual wind). You'll
need to teach yourself to only use that 3rd shot on the rare
occasion when it's actually required.
+) Cost. Film and processing ain't cheap. Digital (once you get
past buying the camera, flash cards, computer, printer) is. I used
to spend over $1,000 per wedding on lab fees.
+) Flex focusing. Nice to be able to focus anywhere on screen,
versus the F5's 5 focus points (or the Leica's one).
+) Low-light EVF. I like the B&W low-light composition. Beats a
dim view of the scene any day.
+) Autometering. Better than the F5 offered; few occasions where
manual seems to work better. I guess incorporating the live
histogram into the metering algorithm really helps.
-) Image storage. You're going to need something (preferably 2
things) to store shot images. It's hard to beat throwing the shot
film cartridge in a 1 gallon zip-lock bag.
+) Silence. Turn off the gimmicky "shutter noise" and you'll have
a silent camera. Nice for ceremonies and toasts and whatnot.
We must be related somehow.BTW, up until a couple years ago, I swore I'd never go digital, but
I also quit carrying a camera bag all the time (too much weight).
Now I carry my bag all the time again.
I've never needed more than a 28 - this is why I bought the Minolta. For me, non-problem. Lower FL means getting into distortion control. But I can get a good quality 22mm attachment or so if I need it for less than $200.Thoughts on plusses and minuses of using an A2 for a wedding:
+) Minimizes the amount of gear you need to bring, as you won't
need to deal with lens changes.
-) You really need a wide-angle adapter, as IMHO a 28mm equivalent
isn't wide enough for documentary style wedding coverage. Not a
deal killer, but adds to the complexity.
I agree - putting several wireless flashes on tripods gets you into totally portable (no power wires, no signal wires) operation. It's great. Only threat is that people trip or knock them over, so I have to put chairs next to them, which usually - not always - works. Depends on the amount of champagne around.+) The wireless flash is WONDERFUL. It's not instant, and seems to
have more lag than the 1/30s my Hasselblads used to have, so might
create some issues with "blinky" brides, but 3 5600 flashes would
ROCK for portable wedding lighting. Really -- don't underestimate
this.
No question there's lag and it's a serious problem at receptions when they're dancing in the near-dark. I go to manual focus and try to get at least f/7 because the lens tables show that I can handle the DOF I need for a range of about 7-25 feet, and that avoids autofocus lag. Next is the flash lag, which I haven't found out how to reduce, but it's pretty small if you try to pre-do most everything. My 3600HS does the job, camera-mounted while working the dance floor.+) Anti-shake means it'll be easier to use longer lenses and
tighter crops.
-) It seems there's more lag between pressing the shutter release
and the time the lens stops down and actually takes the picture. I
haven't done any testing here, it's just the way it "feels."
I shoot at ISO 800 in the church if I have to and use NeatImage carefully on the grainy result - it works and I avoid motion blur (which is the only alternative - slow shutter). Non-problem. Some people like grain.+) Image quality is as good as with 35mm, even with higher ISOs
(compare 800 ASA to Fuji NHG-II whick is considered "excellent"
grain at 800 ASA -- you digital guys are spoiled.)
Short DOF can be had by using the Blur tool in Photoshop - I do it all the time, and I can have as much or little as I need. Non-problem. If the background is really bad, takes more editing.+ -) Depth of field is a mxed blessing. It's easier to get wide
DOF for shots with everything in focus, but it's much harder to use
selective DOF to isolate a subject against an ugly background you
have no control over. Maybe photoshop is a way to compensate.
Right now, it looks like this means that the procession shots can
be done well at wide apertures (versus the f8 required on a
Hasselblad), but there's nothing to compare with an 85/75mm f1.4
shot wide-open for really short DOF portraits. Personally, I
really like the short DOF effect.
I don't see the slightest advantage in shooting a wedding in RAW. I use Fine or Extra Fine and have all the image manipulation I could possibly need in Photoshop. I spend the processing time instead of on RAW by working the best out of my JPGs. Much better results, less time. Work the white balance correctly, and it's a non-problem.-) Buffer is limited to 3 RAW shots in a row before they need to be
written to disk. That's not bad, but there are times when you'll
want to shoot faster than that (even with manual wind). You'll
need to teach yourself to only use that 3rd shot on the rare
occasion when it's actually required.
I copy the files from the card to a portable storage drive whenever I get the chance - mainly to make a 2d copy right away, but also to get some card room. With JPG and 512 cards, I can shoot all I need all afternoon and with the drive, I have unlimited space. Non-problem. Put the current card in the drive, and while it writes put another card in the camera.+) Cost. Film and processing ain't cheap. Digital (once you get
past buying the camera, flash cards, computer, printer) is. I used
to spend over $1,000 per wedding on lab fees.
+) Flex focusing. Nice to be able to focus anywhere on screen,
versus the F5's 5 focus points (or the Leica's one).
+) Low-light EVF. I like the B&W low-light composition. Beats a
dim view of the scene any day.
+) Autometering. Better than the F5 offered; few occasions where
manual seems to work better. I guess incorporating the live
histogram into the metering algorithm really helps.
-) Image storage. You're going to need something (preferably 2
things) to store shot images. It's hard to beat throwing the shot
film cartridge in a 1 gallon zip-lock bag.
I won't shoot weddings in film any more, mainly because of the need for reliable capture - I can see the image on the screen and not bite nails waiting for the film to be processed. Also gives me a no-work, fast display on my Website for the clients and parents to make choices. I can look for blown highlights on a satin dress, too, and fix it onsite.+) Silence. Turn off the gimmicky "shutter noise" and you'll have
a silent camera. Nice for ceremonies and toasts and whatnot.
...shooting weddings. Ther is a difference in shooting a couple (or even a hundred) pics, & be the official photographer of the event, paid or not.Kind of long story short:
How many of you have used Minolta A-2 (or A-1) to shoot weddings?
Opinions?
Oh yes, I think you answered my question on the other forum too. I was there stupid enough to step on your real professionals toes. I'm very sorry, I regret it and I won't write there ever again. Again: I'm sorry. Forgive me....shooting weddings. Ther is a difference in shooting a couple (or
even a hundred) pics, & be the official photographer of the event,
paid or not.
This may seem strange coming from a person (me) who preaches "it's
you not your equipment", but fact is, you can compete in Formula
One with a VW beetle.
Some posters will answer:
"oh yeah, I've shot weddings",
when they really mean (or rather, have)
"shot PHOTOS at a wedding"
There's a big difference.
--
JF
--
'earthbound or not, he's still a troll.'
--Well, what it comes to "professional outlook", I want to say this:
There was a time when I had Canon A-1 with motordrive (which took
twelve AA-sized batteries(!)), three lenses and the "other
equipments".
My "hammer" flash took six AA-batteries and the smaller one four.
Then there was about four years brake. During that I "updated" my
equipments to (don't laugh) Minolta 404-Si with two zoom lenses
(28-80 and 70-300).
I looked much more professional with my Canon (with motordrive).
No matter
The Minolta flash I have takes four batteries but it's as powerful
- it was HEAVY
- it was "manual focus only"
- film rewind had to do manual
- a couple of other facts I don't want to remember anymore
as the old hammer I used to have.
Pekka
On looking professional.
I have shot textbooks professional for over 20 years. While not
I beg your pardon...? Time to take that chip off your shoulder, methinks...Oh yes, I think you answered my question on the other forum too. I...shooting weddings. Ther is a difference in shooting a couple (or
even a hundred) pics, & be the official photographer of the event,
paid or not.
This may seem strange coming from a person (me) who preaches "it's
you not your equipment", but fact is, you can compete in Formula
One with a VW beetle.
Some posters will answer:
"oh yeah, I've shot weddings",
when they really mean (or rather, have)
"shot PHOTOS at a wedding"
There's a big difference.
--
JF
--
'earthbound or not, he's still a troll.'
was there stupid enough to step on your real professionals toes.
What are you talking about? Did I try to slam any post of yours, or ask you not to write "here" or "there"?I'm very sorry, I regret it and I won't write there ever again.
Again: I'm sorry. Forgive me.
Whether the couple is satisfied or not is beyond the point. I was discussing the benefits of using more adequate gear for a pro service. Read again, I even said that high end P&S are good for taking pictures at a wedding (read that again: "taking pictures at a wedding").But, it just happens to be so, that some couples here are total
satisfied with my "snaps" and even give some film- and gasmoney.