Camera Shake .

[jvkvijay]

Hi Everyone,

I recently graduated from a Rebelg to a 300D and have been shooting lot of indoor pictures ( unfortunately it has been raining since then to shoot outdoor pictures). While taking pictures with my 300D, what I observed was that while shooting pictures in low light, with out the flash and with out a tripod, I find it really tough to get the photo with out any shake. I took similar shots with my rebelg and felt it was much easier to take such shots. I am using similar settings.

On my rebelg, I was using the lens that comes with the camera, 200 speed film and in the "P" mode. On my 300D, I am using the "P" mode and I tried various ISOs and the lens that came with the camera.

Have anyone else experienced this ? or is it just me with an unstable hand.

thank you
Vijay

 

[Daniella68313]

I think the difference come from the fact that you are comparing film to digital. Film has more resolution adn maybe you had as much camera shake but it was not that noticeable?

now the 300d photos tend to be softer than film...but I am not sure how you compare them either. what shutter speed are you refering too? I never managed to do this with any camera, and I have pretty good steady hands.

Hi Everyone,
I recently graduated from a Rebelg to a 300D and have been shooting
lot of indoor pictures ( unfortunately it has been raining since
then to shoot outdoor pictures). While taking pictures with my
300D, what I observed was that while shooting pictures in low
light, with out the flash and with out a tripod, I find it really
tough to get the photo with out any shake. I took similar shots
with my rebelg and felt it was much easier to take such shots. I am
using similar settings.
On my rebelg, I was using the lens that comes with the camera, 200
speed film and in the "P" mode. On my 300D, I am using the "P" mode
and I tried various ISOs and the lens that came with the camera.

Have anyone else experienced this ? or is it just me with an
unstable hand.

thank you
Vijay

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

 

[Sandman]

jvkvijay,

It is most certainly NOT just you! Watch your shutter speeds very closely. The rule of thumb is to select a shutter speed that is AT LEAST 1/focal length. Since the Digital Rebel has a lens multiplier factor of 1.6, it is probably prudent to factor this into determining your minimum shutter speed, so the formula becomes 1/focal length X 1.6

Also remember that everyone has different capabilities regarding how slow a shutter speed they can hand-hold and get a sharp image. It is not a bad idea to do a series of tests (outdoors in daylight if possible) to determine what YOUR capabilities are. Remember too that your technique can have a profound effect upon how slow a shutter speed you can get. Bracing the camera by locking your elbows, controlloing your breathing, and softly pressing the shutter release all factor into your minimum effective shutter speed. Also remember that the Rebel produces good images up to and including ISO 800, so if needed, take advantage of this additional speed!

Cheers,

jim

--
galleries at: http://www.pbase.com/sandman3

 

[jvkvijay]

Thank you guys. I will follow your suggestions.

jvkvijay,

It is most certainly NOT just you! Watch your shutter speeds very
closely. The rule of thumb is to select a shutter speed that is AT
LEAST 1/focal length. Since the Digital Rebel has a lens
multiplier factor of 1.6, it is probably prudent to factor this
into determining your minimum shutter speed, so the formula becomes
1/focal length X 1.6

Also remember that everyone has different capabilities regarding
how slow a shutter speed they can hand-hold and get a sharp image.
It is not a bad idea to do a series of tests (outdoors in daylight
if possible) to determine what YOUR capabilities are. Remember too
that your technique can have a profound effect upon how slow a
shutter speed you can get. Bracing the camera by locking your
elbows, controlloing your breathing, and softly pressing the
shutter release all factor into your minimum effective shutter
speed. Also remember that the Rebel produces good images up to
and including ISO 800, so if needed, take advantage of this
additional speed!

Cheers,

jim

--
galleries at: http://www.pbase.com/sandman3

 

[Ben Seese]

I don't want to start a back & forth here, but I have to point this out. Film does not have more resolution than a 300D, unless you are doing a super-high-quality scan and printing larger than 13x19.

See Michael's articles over at http://www.luminous-landscape.com .

now the 300d photos tend to be softer than film...but I am not sure
how you compare them either. what shutter speed are you refering
too? I never managed to do this with any camera, and I have pretty
good steady hands.

Hi Everyone,
I recently graduated from a Rebelg to a 300D and have been shooting
lot of indoor pictures ( unfortunately it has been raining since
then to shoot outdoor pictures). While taking pictures with my
300D, what I observed was that while shooting pictures in low
light, with out the flash and with out a tripod, I find it really
tough to get the photo with out any shake. I took similar shots
with my rebelg and felt it was much easier to take such shots. I am
using similar settings.
On my rebelg, I was using the lens that comes with the camera, 200
speed film and in the "P" mode. On my 300D, I am using the "P" mode
and I tried various ISOs and the lens that came with the camera.

Have anyone else experienced this ? or is it just me with an
unstable hand.

thank you
Vijay

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

 

[hm]

Have anyone else experienced this ? or is it just me with an
unstable hand.

This is a common complaint.

I have two theories for it. One is that people are comparing their 4x6 prints from film to full-screen enlargements with digital, effectively looking closer at their digital pictures. The other is that people are accustomed to using ASA400 speed film, but are using their digital cameras set to ASA100.
-harry

 

[Daniella68313]

I think the problem come from the fact that if you look at film print at 5 x 7 and if you look at a 300d image on the computer...they do look a lot different.

The 300d sensor is not the equivalent of the 35mm size...the 12mp is.

See Michael's articles over at http://www.luminous-landscape.com .

now the 300d photos tend to be softer than film...but I am not sure
how you compare them either. what shutter speed are you refering
too? I never managed to do this with any camera, and I have pretty
good steady hands.

Hi Everyone,
I recently graduated from a Rebelg to a 300D and have been shooting
lot of indoor pictures ( unfortunately it has been raining since
then to shoot outdoor pictures). While taking pictures with my
300D, what I observed was that while shooting pictures in low
light, with out the flash and with out a tripod, I find it really
tough to get the photo with out any shake. I took similar shots
with my rebelg and felt it was much easier to take such shots. I am
using similar settings.
On my rebelg, I was using the lens that comes with the camera, 200
speed film and in the "P" mode. On my 300D, I am using the "P" mode
and I tried various ISOs and the lens that came with the camera.

Have anyone else experienced this ? or is it just me with an
unstable hand.

thank you
Vijay

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

 

[wburychka]

The old rule of thumb of one times the focal length for hand held shutter speeds, I believe should be modified with the 1.6 crop factor for a 300D or 10D. And I have recently come to the conclusion that you should modify that further with 10% for each ten years that the camera holder is over 30!

Personal experience talking here.

--
Bill
300D - It's a great camera, even if it isn't black

 

[DRG]

Hi Everyone,
I recently graduated from a Rebelg to a 300D and have been shooting
lot of indoor pictures ( unfortunately it has been raining since
then to shoot outdoor pictures). While taking pictures with my
300D, what I observed was that while shooting pictures in low
light, with out the flash and with out a tripod, I find it really
tough to get the photo with out any shake. I took similar shots
with my rebelg and felt it was much easier to take such shots. I am
using similar settings.
On my rebelg, I was using the lens that comes with the camera, 200
speed film and in the "P" mode. On my 300D, I am using the "P" mode
and I tried various ISOs and the lens that came with the camera.

Have anyone else experienced this ? or is it just me with an
unstable hand.

In addition to what others have mentioned (motion blur perhaps being more detectable viewing a digital image at 100%, 1.6x field-of-view ratio, etc), it's possible that the problem is that you're shooting in P mode. The camera selects both aperture and shutter speed in this mode in an attempt to provide a correct exposure. The problem is that there are many combinations of the two that yield the correct exposure. As light grows lower, the camera can either reduce shutter speed, open aperture or both. Every camera has its own algorithm for governing this and it's possible that there are differences between the Rebel G and the 300D, with the G maintaining higher shutter speeds longer. I don't know this for sure, but it's a possibility.

You should become familiar with using the Av and Tv modes. For indoor photos, maintaining sufficient shutter speed as light grows low is paramount, so you want to fix shutter speed and let the camera select aperture. As others have mentioned, try to maintain a shutter speed of at least (shorter is better still) 1/effective focal length, where effective focal length is actual x 1.6. If the resulting aperture blinks in the viewfinder, indicating that the camera has reached the lens' limit and can't open the aperture enough for a proper exposure, then start to bump up ISO. This is where a fast lens is a big help. If you can add the inexpensive 50mm F/1.8 to your lens arsenal, you'll have an easier time of it with your indoor shots.

David

 

[BadRide]

The old rule of thumb of one times the focal length for hand held
shutter speeds, I believe should be modified with the 1.6 crop
factor for a 300D or 10D. And I have recently come to the
conclusion that you should modify that further with 10% for each
ten years that the camera holder is over 30!

Personal experience talking here.

--
Bill
300D - It's a great camera, even if it isn't black

I had not really thought of the 1.6 Crop (multiplier or whatever it is) but that is a very good point. Also, I agree with the 10% (also speaking from experience) and maybe another 5% based on the amount of coffee that has been consumed. All kidding aside, I wonder if the 1.6 does change that number???

 

[PixelPusher154634]

The 300d sensor is not the equivalent of the 35mm size...the 12mp is

But what does that have to do with resolution of the CMOS???

12MP is the equivalent to 2 1/4 square, your 300D CMOS has the same if not slightly better resolving power of 35mm film.

PP

 

[PixelPusher154634]

Harry:

Your first theory was the most accurate. Full screen on a monitor is like looking at a 11x14 inch print or even a 16x20 vs. a 4x6, every imperfection shows up that a 4x6 would hide.

PP

Have anyone else experienced this ? or is it just me with an
unstable hand.

This is a common complaint.

I have two theories for it. One is that people are comparing their
4x6 prints from film to full-screen enlargements with digital,
effectively looking closer at their digital pictures. The other is
that people are accustomed to using ASA400 speed film, but are
using their digital cameras set to ASA100.
-harry

 

[Laurmando Paleracio]

I had the same problem too. I used to shoot with lighter Rebel 2000 with no problem. The first time I took shoots with DR, the results were horrible.

I bought a chest pad to support it or, when it's too inconvinience, I used the camera strap to hold my wrists to keep my hands steady.

Happy shooting

Hi Everyone,
I recently graduated from a Rebelg to a 300D and have been shooting
lot of indoor pictures ( unfortunately it has been raining since
then to shoot outdoor pictures). While taking pictures with my
300D, what I observed was that while shooting pictures in low
light, with out the flash and with out a tripod, I find it really
tough to get the photo with out any shake. I took similar shots
with my rebelg and felt it was much easier to take such shots. I am
using similar settings.
On my rebelg, I was using the lens that comes with the camera, 200
speed film and in the "P" mode. On my 300D, I am using the "P" mode
and I tried various ISOs and the lens that came with the camera.

Have anyone else experienced this ? or is it just me with an
unstable hand.

In addition to what others have mentioned (motion blur perhaps
being more detectable viewing a digital image at 100%, 1.6x
field-of-view ratio, etc), it's possible that the problem is that
you're shooting in P mode. The camera selects both aperture and
shutter speed in this mode in an attempt to provide a correct
exposure. The problem is that there are many combinations of the
two that yield the correct exposure. As light grows lower, the
camera can either reduce shutter speed, open aperture or both.
Every camera has its own algorithm for governing this and it's
possible that there are differences between the Rebel G and the
300D, with the G maintaining higher shutter speeds longer. I don't
know this for sure, but it's a possibility.

You should become familiar with using the Av and Tv modes. For
indoor photos, maintaining sufficient shutter speed as light grows
low is paramount, so you want to fix shutter speed and let the
camera select aperture. As others have mentioned, try to maintain a
shutter speed of at least (shorter is better still) 1/effective
focal length, where effective focal length is actual x 1.6. If the
resulting aperture blinks in the viewfinder, indicating that the
camera has reached the lens' limit and can't open the aperture
enough for a proper exposure, then start to bump up ISO. This is
where a fast lens is a big help. If you can add the inexpensive
50mm F/1.8 to your lens arsenal, you'll have an easier time of it
with your indoor shots.

David

 

[Daniel Myers]

The 300D can do what's called a program shift in P mode--press the shutter halfway and release. Then, turn the main dial--you can scroll through valid shutter/aperture combos. Press the shutter again to take the shot.

Daniel
http://www.danielsphotos.org

field-of-view ratio, etc), it's possible that the problem is that
you're shooting in P mode. The camera selects both aperture and
shutter speed in this mode in an attempt to provide a correct
exposure. The problem is that there are many combinations of the
two that yield the correct exposure. As light grows lower, the
camera can either reduce shutter speed, open aperture or both.
Every camera has its own algorithm for governing this and it's
possible that there are differences between the Rebel G and the
300D, with the G maintaining higher shutter speeds longer. I don't
know this for sure, but it's a possibility.

You should become familiar with using the Av and Tv modes. For
indoor photos, maintaining sufficient shutter speed as light grows
low is paramount, so you want to fix shutter speed and let the
camera select aperture. As others have mentioned, try to maintain a
shutter speed of at least (shorter is better still) 1/effective
focal length, where effective focal length is actual x 1.6. If the
resulting aperture blinks in the viewfinder, indicating that the
camera has reached the lens' limit and can't open the aperture
enough for a proper exposure, then start to bump up ISO. This is
where a fast lens is a big help. If you can add the inexpensive
50mm F/1.8 to your lens arsenal, you'll have an easier time of it
with your indoor shots.

David

 

[JimLong]

I have had good luck by using the drive mode. Take a burst of 3 or 4 pictures and chances are better that one of them will good. I used this technique recently in a museum where I couldn't use a flash and it worked well.

Jim

jvkvijay,

It is most certainly NOT just you! Watch your shutter speeds very
closely. The rule of thumb is to select a shutter speed that is AT
LEAST 1/focal length. Since the Digital Rebel has a lens
multiplier factor of 1.6, it is probably prudent to factor this
into determining your minimum shutter speed, so the formula becomes
1/focal length X 1.6

Also remember that everyone has different capabilities regarding
how slow a shutter speed they can hand-hold and get a sharp image.
It is not a bad idea to do a series of tests (outdoors in daylight
if possible) to determine what YOUR capabilities are. Remember too
that your technique can have a profound effect upon how slow a
shutter speed you can get. Bracing the camera by locking your
elbows, controlloing your breathing, and softly pressing the
shutter release all factor into your minimum effective shutter
speed. Also remember that the Rebel produces good images up to
and including ISO 800, so if needed, take advantage of this
additional speed!

Cheers,

jim

--
galleries at: http://www.pbase.com/sandman3

 

[Daniella68313]

do you get a better resolution with the 300d photos printed at 20 x 30 than with 35mm slide film?

The 300d sensor is not the equivalent of the 35mm size...the 12mp is

But what does that have to do with resolution of the CMOS???

12MP is the equivalent to 2 1/4 square, your 300D CMOS has the same
if not slightly better resolving power of 35mm film.

PP

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

 

[Daniella68313]

the CMOS is the sensor type...but it is the same object. Or did I miss something?

anyway...here is the situation:

http://www.canon.com/technology/detail/digi_35mm/cmos/

The 300d sensor is not the equivalent of the 35mm size...the 12mp is

But what does that have to do with resolution of the CMOS???

12MP is the equivalent to 2 1/4 square, your 300D CMOS has the same
if not slightly better resolving power of 35mm film.

PP

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

 

[PixelPusher154634]

That would depend on how you are scanning the 35mm slide and what I mean by that is what type of scanner are you using, a consumer based scanner or a commercial scanner and at what resolution.

PP

do you get a better resolution with the 300d photos printed at 20 x
30 than with 35mm slide film?

 

[edtang]

There are 2 basic designs to image sensors, one is CMOS and one is CCD. They both change light into electrical signals, but do it differently.

A nice analogy is like a Compactflash card and a microdrive. Both do the same thing, but differently.

edtang

anyway...here is the situation:

http://www.canon.com/technology/detail/digi_35mm/cmos/

The 300d sensor is not the equivalent of the 35mm size...the 12mp is

But what does that have to do with resolution of the CMOS???

12MP is the equivalent to 2 1/4 square, your 300D CMOS has the same
if not slightly better resolving power of 35mm film.

PP

--
I am not an English native speaker!
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
http://www.photosig.com/go/users/userphotos?id=26918

 

[DRG]

The 300D can do what's called a program shift in P mode--press the
shutter halfway and release. Then, turn the main dial--you can
scroll through valid shutter/aperture combos. Press the shutter
again to take the shot.

Daniel
http://www.danielsphotos.org

Sure, shifting the initial P mode values works, but, if you know up front that you are going to want a faster shutter speed and if P keeps starting you off with a slower one, it's more efficient to use Tv and set the speed than to keep shifting.

David