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Underwater housing for RX100
- Thread starter SHood
- Start date
Claude474
Member
One word: Expensive
ExtremeTruth
Active member
That's insane!! What?! I just looked at the price of the underwater housing from BlueWater, it's $1200 !!! It can't cost them more than 20 bucks to make the thing, and to charge double the price of the camera is ridiculous. Wow
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E.T.
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E.T.
Those are 5 axis machined CNC aluminum housings.
All underwater housings made of aluminum is expensive. Low volume custom job is never cheap. Mine is coming and it will be from Nauticam.
Why don't you make some to the exact specification of a RecSea or Nauticam and sell for US$60 so that you make 200% profit. I guarantee 1,000 units easy sell under 6 months.
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Ryan Williams
Leading Member
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I think for the specialist market it's going for it's probably reasonable. It's not intended for your average snorkeler by the looks of it, but instead for people going seriously deep.
Of course, if I were spending that much and going that deep I think I'd more inclined to go the full hog and take a bigger camera/sensor down there with me. The weight can't make that much difference and a larger sensor would be invaluable at such depth I imagine.
Of course, if I were spending that much and going that deep I think I'd more inclined to go the full hog and take a bigger camera/sensor down there with me. The weight can't make that much difference and a larger sensor would be invaluable at such depth I imagine.
Hi Ryan,
Not really say very deep diving and then you need quality housing. In Japan, cheapo housings like those made by Sony or Canon or Olympus is not a favorite housing for their Canon S100 and whatever small baby cameras. People do pay for quality housing, not a big market,
Quality housing is not only tough but you can add a lot of extras too, like UW strobe which cost as much as RX100 for a decently good unit but not too big ( US$699 ) and their guide number is 24 on land. One must use two units underwater for wide angle and don't expect it will reach a subject more than 2 meters ha ha ha. The wide angle lens adaptor, wet lens from say Inon ( Japan ) cost US$500+, so again it is a lot of cost to get quality image underwater.
See this RX100 testing, macro , some with +10 diopter:
http://nauticam.smugmug.com/HousingTests/NA-NX100/24539952_6RWckV# !i=2003882667&k=HQxpcDZ
That +10 lens used to add magnification cost approx US$500, if I am not wrong.
It is cheaper to take great photo or video on land, but super expensive to do the same underwater and lots of mother nature limitations too.
RX100 complete for wide angle and macro underwater with all thrown in = Appprox US$3,000 for the supporting hardware, excluding camera itself.
You bring down an Oly EM-5 underwater and go super wide with Zuiko lens, must use Dome Lens Port, the bloody dome port alone ( glass ) can cost like US$2,000, all in the name of less distortion.
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Not really say very deep diving and then you need quality housing. In Japan, cheapo housings like those made by Sony or Canon or Olympus is not a favorite housing for their Canon S100 and whatever small baby cameras. People do pay for quality housing, not a big market,
Quality housing is not only tough but you can add a lot of extras too, like UW strobe which cost as much as RX100 for a decently good unit but not too big ( US$699 ) and their guide number is 24 on land. One must use two units underwater for wide angle and don't expect it will reach a subject more than 2 meters ha ha ha. The wide angle lens adaptor, wet lens from say Inon ( Japan ) cost US$500+, so again it is a lot of cost to get quality image underwater.
See this RX100 testing, macro , some with +10 diopter:
http://nauticam.smugmug.com/HousingTests/NA-NX100/24539952_6RWckV# !i=2003882667&k=HQxpcDZ
That +10 lens used to add magnification cost approx US$500, if I am not wrong.
It is cheaper to take great photo or video on land, but super expensive to do the same underwater and lots of mother nature limitations too.
RX100 complete for wide angle and macro underwater with all thrown in = Appprox US$3,000 for the supporting hardware, excluding camera itself.
You bring down an Oly EM-5 underwater and go super wide with Zuiko lens, must use Dome Lens Port, the bloody dome port alone ( glass ) can cost like US$2,000, all in the name of less distortion.
.
Evadremlu
Well-known member
Took delivery of my Recsea RX100 housing this morning. After reading the manual and checking the housing, I took the empty housing for a test in my condo pool (2 meters deep). All went well, so popped in the RX100 and spent the next hour putting the camera+housing through its paces (or as much as you could possibly do in a pool...haha). Shot video, wide angle, macro and mucked around with color balance. The test hour was a success and the camera is soaking in a bucket of clean water right now as I write this to rid itself of the awfully strong chlorine in my pool. Will retrieve the memory card and post samples later if they're worth anything.
Quick Impressions:
I've seen and handled the Recsea and Nauticam housings for the Nex5N, which are the top of line that you can buy for the 5N, and this RX100 housing doesn't fall short. Same high quality build... bombproof feel. Its also crazy small and handles as easily as any point and shoot plastic housing, meaning to say, it actually is quite light. Without the camera inside, the aluminium housing actually floats in fresh water!
What's particularly nice about the Recsea (versus the Nauticam) is that ALL of the controls are in exactly the same positions as the camera itself, which is very nice, especially if you're already developed the muscle memory after shooting the camera a lot on land. The Nauticam appears to have repositioned the controls somewhat? The Recsea, on paper, is also smaller overall than the Nauticam, in every dimension... also nice.
All the buttons and levers worked chunkily, but reliably. The mode dial slips a bit, but I expected that since the RX100's dial is quite firm and the housing's dial engages it only via a friction contact with an O-ring. The front dial works OK too, but well lacks some finesse. I hardly use that dial for menus anyway, so it doesnt' bother me, but users who expect the same silky smoothness of the bare dial might have to get used to a coarser experience. Most frustrating control for me was the the rotating dial on the rear panel, the one flanked by the 4 rear buttons. While the positions was perfect, this particular control was far too sensitive and would often rock in a different axis from the intended one, or activate with very light pressure. During my test hour, I was constantly getting it wrong if I tried to operate the wheel with just my right thumb as I held it with my right hand. The only way to guarantee accurate activation was for me to use my left thumb and forefinger. A bit frustrating, but I suspect I'd get used to it, or improve my right thumb accuracy with more practice. I'll have to try the controls with dive gloves next time to see if operatibility suffers any without direct "finger feel".
Overall, I love this housing. It feels hewn from solid, because it is. And quite frankly, even if it is an expensive item - its a LOT cheaper than the equivalent housing for a 5N. And rated to 80 meters, this thing should endure the much shallower recreational depths (40m) that I go to with relative ease (I hope).
Quick Impressions:
I've seen and handled the Recsea and Nauticam housings for the Nex5N, which are the top of line that you can buy for the 5N, and this RX100 housing doesn't fall short. Same high quality build... bombproof feel. Its also crazy small and handles as easily as any point and shoot plastic housing, meaning to say, it actually is quite light. Without the camera inside, the aluminium housing actually floats in fresh water!
What's particularly nice about the Recsea (versus the Nauticam) is that ALL of the controls are in exactly the same positions as the camera itself, which is very nice, especially if you're already developed the muscle memory after shooting the camera a lot on land. The Nauticam appears to have repositioned the controls somewhat? The Recsea, on paper, is also smaller overall than the Nauticam, in every dimension... also nice.
All the buttons and levers worked chunkily, but reliably. The mode dial slips a bit, but I expected that since the RX100's dial is quite firm and the housing's dial engages it only via a friction contact with an O-ring. The front dial works OK too, but well lacks some finesse. I hardly use that dial for menus anyway, so it doesnt' bother me, but users who expect the same silky smoothness of the bare dial might have to get used to a coarser experience. Most frustrating control for me was the the rotating dial on the rear panel, the one flanked by the 4 rear buttons. While the positions was perfect, this particular control was far too sensitive and would often rock in a different axis from the intended one, or activate with very light pressure. During my test hour, I was constantly getting it wrong if I tried to operate the wheel with just my right thumb as I held it with my right hand. The only way to guarantee accurate activation was for me to use my left thumb and forefinger. A bit frustrating, but I suspect I'd get used to it, or improve my right thumb accuracy with more practice. I'll have to try the controls with dive gloves next time to see if operatibility suffers any without direct "finger feel".
Overall, I love this housing. It feels hewn from solid, because it is. And quite frankly, even if it is an expensive item - its a LOT cheaper than the equivalent housing for a 5N. And rated to 80 meters, this thing should endure the much shallower recreational depths (40m) that I go to with relative ease (I hope).
Neo,
I am after Nauticam RX100, video version.
I have D800 and NEX7 housing from Nauticam.
What I learn from NEX7 experience is, never never allow RecSea housing kind of rear dial to be exactly on top of camera's own dial. Exactly the problem you are getting :
You said :
I am after Nauticam RX100, video version.
I have D800 and NEX7 housing from Nauticam.
What I learn from NEX7 experience is, never never allow RecSea housing kind of rear dial to be exactly on top of camera's own dial. Exactly the problem you are getting :
You said :
Part 2
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Look at Sea & Sea D800 rear buttons locations
http://www.backscatter.com/hostedstore/templates/backscatter_wideload/product_detail_zoomimage.lasso?img=ss-06162_5
The camera itself
The D800 rear multifunction rotator dial is made as is where is and it is not rotating.
http://www.backscatter.com/hostedstore/templates/backscatter_wideload/product_detail_zoomimage.lasso?img=nkl-25480_4
Nauticam D800 rear dial
http://www.backscatter.com/hostedstore/templates/backscatter_wideload/product_detail_zoomimage.lasso?img=na-17209_3
Nauticam D800. The complex gear made for that rear dial ( all those stainless steel links left side )
http://www.backscatter.com/hostedstore/templates/backscatter_wideload/product_detail_zoomimage.lasso?img=na-17209_8
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3AA. A housing rotator dial like found on RecSea housing, operating a dial and a push ON dial that is found on RX100 or NEX7, is asking for sensitivity loss and eventually an operational error you are experiencing. Why ? ......because they need to use pre-tensioned spring to maintain friction contact but not accidental "ON" and at the same time the spring allows OFF position when dial not pressed. In a normal deepest recreational diving scenario say 40 meters, the total surface area of that dial will be exposed to 75 psi of pressure ( 5 ATM ). So the spring chosen must have at least 50 meters of seawater pressure in mind, at least. The RecSea is 80 meter rated, that is a whopping 135 psi of sea water pressure at 9 ATM. So a good dial sensitivity at shallower depth, may produce bad operations on the deep end. This is the reason shutter release button is almost always a Trigger Lever design (on good housing ) and and not push button design copying camera's real button. Rotating shaft ( trigger lever is a rotating shaft actually ) does not get effected by deep water pressure like a push button would. Its the gas law related to mechanical design thingy.
3BB. Mechanical controls can not replicate/mimic human way of operation a 100%. A rotating dial with push button ON is one of the most difficult piece of engineering to do it right for good feel, accurate and can operate flawlessly at maximum housing depth rating, if the position of that switch is the way RecSea is doing, which is carbon copy position. Why so ? Because mechanical rotating dial that can do push to ON operation, MUST use a shaft at the middle. How would one rotate a mechanical dial if there is no shaft in the middle ? Our fingers is a magic of a mechanical design no mechanical movement/hardware can mimic. Our finger do not have center line shaft the way mechanical switch requires. When we operate that dial on land, our fingers will never be on the middle of the dial when we spin the dial, we will spin it at the outer radius and will proceed to the middle button when we need to press the middle button. No way a mechanical dial can mimic that in a form factor that small and must withstand sea water pressure at least 50 meters and must be sensitive to touch.
For this reason I realized on my NEX7 why Nauticam positioned the rear dial as they did. Later on for Nauticam D800, they tried to mimic the exact same dial+ switch ( +not a spinning dial, its more like a 8 points round switch, hard to describe ) at the camera's back using single dial switch like RecSea but totally different in design. It uses multiple complex link, gimbal and etc etc to get it right, you can see the stainless links from Backscatter photo, but you can't see the gimbal. Amazingly they got it right and it is also re-located to top right side for ease of operation underwater, keeping in mind that a housing is expanding a camera foot print and housing does have a handle. That switch is patented. It offers near same user experience on land ( naked camera ) compared to the use in housing, but, with one exception, you need to overcome a bit more spring tension than on land, no choice, sea water pressure exist UW.
It took me a long time to decide what housing to buy for my D800.
The case study was D7000 housings. It is the only housing late model enough to convey each and every designer's design philosophy. Each brand usually evolve to do better and better for newer model, they should or they will loose customer base. I mean all big names made D7000 housings and in fact Nauticam improved their housing from D7000 to D7000V. My friends got the two housings and I studied why Nauticam took the trouble to do so, when knowing housings of that price league is not easy to sell. How in the world they make their money back ? Later on I read at Wetpixel that the Nauticam designer/owner is the big boss himself and he is a hard core UW photo dude, who seeks perfection above all else.
Will Continue............
.
Look at Sea & Sea D800 rear buttons locations
http://www.backscatter.com/hostedstore/templates/backscatter_wideload/product_detail_zoomimage.lasso?img=ss-06162_5
The camera itself
The D800 rear multifunction rotator dial is made as is where is and it is not rotating.
http://www.backscatter.com/hostedstore/templates/backscatter_wideload/product_detail_zoomimage.lasso?img=nkl-25480_4
Nauticam D800 rear dial
http://www.backscatter.com/hostedstore/templates/backscatter_wideload/product_detail_zoomimage.lasso?img=na-17209_3
Nauticam D800. The complex gear made for that rear dial ( all those stainless steel links left side )
http://www.backscatter.com/hostedstore/templates/backscatter_wideload/product_detail_zoomimage.lasso?img=na-17209_8
.
3AA. A housing rotator dial like found on RecSea housing, operating a dial and a push ON dial that is found on RX100 or NEX7, is asking for sensitivity loss and eventually an operational error you are experiencing. Why ? ......because they need to use pre-tensioned spring to maintain friction contact but not accidental "ON" and at the same time the spring allows OFF position when dial not pressed. In a normal deepest recreational diving scenario say 40 meters, the total surface area of that dial will be exposed to 75 psi of pressure ( 5 ATM ). So the spring chosen must have at least 50 meters of seawater pressure in mind, at least. The RecSea is 80 meter rated, that is a whopping 135 psi of sea water pressure at 9 ATM. So a good dial sensitivity at shallower depth, may produce bad operations on the deep end. This is the reason shutter release button is almost always a Trigger Lever design (on good housing ) and and not push button design copying camera's real button. Rotating shaft ( trigger lever is a rotating shaft actually ) does not get effected by deep water pressure like a push button would. Its the gas law related to mechanical design thingy.
3BB. Mechanical controls can not replicate/mimic human way of operation a 100%. A rotating dial with push button ON is one of the most difficult piece of engineering to do it right for good feel, accurate and can operate flawlessly at maximum housing depth rating, if the position of that switch is the way RecSea is doing, which is carbon copy position. Why so ? Because mechanical rotating dial that can do push to ON operation, MUST use a shaft at the middle. How would one rotate a mechanical dial if there is no shaft in the middle ? Our fingers is a magic of a mechanical design no mechanical movement/hardware can mimic. Our finger do not have center line shaft the way mechanical switch requires. When we operate that dial on land, our fingers will never be on the middle of the dial when we spin the dial, we will spin it at the outer radius and will proceed to the middle button when we need to press the middle button. No way a mechanical dial can mimic that in a form factor that small and must withstand sea water pressure at least 50 meters and must be sensitive to touch.
For this reason I realized on my NEX7 why Nauticam positioned the rear dial as they did. Later on for Nauticam D800, they tried to mimic the exact same dial+ switch ( +not a spinning dial, its more like a 8 points round switch, hard to describe ) at the camera's back using single dial switch like RecSea but totally different in design. It uses multiple complex link, gimbal and etc etc to get it right, you can see the stainless links from Backscatter photo, but you can't see the gimbal. Amazingly they got it right and it is also re-located to top right side for ease of operation underwater, keeping in mind that a housing is expanding a camera foot print and housing does have a handle. That switch is patented. It offers near same user experience on land ( naked camera ) compared to the use in housing, but, with one exception, you need to overcome a bit more spring tension than on land, no choice, sea water pressure exist UW.
It took me a long time to decide what housing to buy for my D800.
The case study was D7000 housings. It is the only housing late model enough to convey each and every designer's design philosophy. Each brand usually evolve to do better and better for newer model, they should or they will loose customer base. I mean all big names made D7000 housings and in fact Nauticam improved their housing from D7000 to D7000V. My friends got the two housings and I studied why Nauticam took the trouble to do so, when knowing housings of that price league is not easy to sell. How in the world they make their money back ? Later on I read at Wetpixel that the Nauticam designer/owner is the big boss himself and he is a hard core UW photo dude, who seeks perfection above all else.
Will Continue............
Part 3 - END
04. You said the Mode Dial slips a bit on the RecSea, u means the rotating switch at the front lens correct ? That RX100 lens rotator is handy for manual focus. That will matter a lot for macro photo where if the color of the object blends in with the background and RX100 AF system which is based on contrast focus or any contrast focus camera for that matter, will not get proper focus lock even with focus light. With RX100 either magnified MF operation or using peaking capability, that front dial is why I am so keen to bring RX100 underwater. The Nauticam's front lens dial is small, while not easy to touch it does offer gearing ratio advantage. The RX100 when using manual focus, you need to spin the lens rotator plenty to get the focus going, which is good as it can do precise focusing. What I can not confirm yet ( I don't have RX100 Nauticam yet ) and I am hoping, for front lens rotator dial on housing to be better than RecSea.
However, since the Canon S100 ( housing known as Fisheye S100 , made by Nauticam ) uses the same lens rotator system and by looks of things with the way the entire diameter of the lens rotator being cupped in a rubber, instead of what you said of RecSea using o-ring only as friction,
http://www.backscatter.com/hostedstore/templates/backscatter_wideload/product_detail_zoomimage.lasso?img=fe-fixs100-sa_7
I can say with certainty that the Nauticam RX100 front lens rotator will not slip like your RecSea. From above photo I can see Nauticam rubber cupping for the lens rotator has slight friction identation , like mini tooth gears of the RX100 lens rotator iself, and that will give more friction. Again this Nauticam design needed 1 extra gear to accomplish that lens rotating thingy and that is extra $$.
The downfall of most housings manufacturer I see today is, cost cutting on design, lacks of buttons, poor ergonomics and we loose some ease of use or functionality.
I started playing with UW imaging using Sony Hi8 camcorder back in early 90s. I am not a pro, I do imaging just for fun but I am very anal on mechanical design because I get paid to evaluate poor design vs good mechanical design in my work. My first housing, the Sony made TR series housing, the famous yellow el-cheapo housing that fits many TR series. Fortunate for video dudes, we have Sony Lanc control which does not require mechanical switches for common functions, its all sent from camera to handle assy using electrical signal, so life was good. When I got more money, I bought Amphibico ( today it is owned by Aquatica ) for my Sony TRV900, the Mini DV good old days. Then I noticed, dang, fine engineering do cost money but its worth it.
It is when I started using still camera housing I realized, what a dummy these still cameras manufacturers are. With today's technology, they can send out 1 data port like a Sony Lanc ( unlike Nikon's Camera Control Pro 2 which needed a PC to use ) to do very basic controls like focus only, fire the shutter only, shutter speed adjust, F adjust and ISO adjust, zoom in zoom out ( for some cameras ) and focus fine adjust if possible. Then manufacturer of UW housing can make our life and pocket easier ha ha ha.
So back to the mechanicals of UW housings. If you have access to a real life housing units of various brands, you are lucky. For me, since only very very few UW brands housing are available in my country and sales are so far in between, touching and studying latest UW housing units is not possible. I had to beg and borrow previous model housings owned by friends, play with it and learn each model's design philosophy and refer to BackScatter.com for a rear view of the controls and its internals. I then read Wetpixel reports because it has some details I may miss or details I can not get from downloading each brand's User Manual. Not all brands allow User Manual download.
My Nauticam D800 housing purchase decision is based on the above study method and a real life Nauticam D7000V inspection. My Nauticam NEX7 purchase was simple, a friend has it and I can open it up and inspect and I was thrilled.
My dream housing is this :
I am choosing the Nauticam RX100 Video version because I have the 4" SmallHD monitor already and I can use it on D800 too. All I need now is that monitor housing from Nauticam, dang it is expensive.
Thanks for the RecSea review Neo. When I get my Nauticam, I will write up some report for you yah.
Later
SP
04. You said the Mode Dial slips a bit on the RecSea, u means the rotating switch at the front lens correct ? That RX100 lens rotator is handy for manual focus. That will matter a lot for macro photo where if the color of the object blends in with the background and RX100 AF system which is based on contrast focus or any contrast focus camera for that matter, will not get proper focus lock even with focus light. With RX100 either magnified MF operation or using peaking capability, that front dial is why I am so keen to bring RX100 underwater. The Nauticam's front lens dial is small, while not easy to touch it does offer gearing ratio advantage. The RX100 when using manual focus, you need to spin the lens rotator plenty to get the focus going, which is good as it can do precise focusing. What I can not confirm yet ( I don't have RX100 Nauticam yet ) and I am hoping, for front lens rotator dial on housing to be better than RecSea.
However, since the Canon S100 ( housing known as Fisheye S100 , made by Nauticam ) uses the same lens rotator system and by looks of things with the way the entire diameter of the lens rotator being cupped in a rubber, instead of what you said of RecSea using o-ring only as friction,
http://www.backscatter.com/hostedstore/templates/backscatter_wideload/product_detail_zoomimage.lasso?img=fe-fixs100-sa_7
I can say with certainty that the Nauticam RX100 front lens rotator will not slip like your RecSea. From above photo I can see Nauticam rubber cupping for the lens rotator has slight friction identation , like mini tooth gears of the RX100 lens rotator iself, and that will give more friction. Again this Nauticam design needed 1 extra gear to accomplish that lens rotating thingy and that is extra $$.
The downfall of most housings manufacturer I see today is, cost cutting on design, lacks of buttons, poor ergonomics and we loose some ease of use or functionality.
I started playing with UW imaging using Sony Hi8 camcorder back in early 90s. I am not a pro, I do imaging just for fun but I am very anal on mechanical design because I get paid to evaluate poor design vs good mechanical design in my work. My first housing, the Sony made TR series housing, the famous yellow el-cheapo housing that fits many TR series. Fortunate for video dudes, we have Sony Lanc control which does not require mechanical switches for common functions, its all sent from camera to handle assy using electrical signal, so life was good. When I got more money, I bought Amphibico ( today it is owned by Aquatica ) for my Sony TRV900, the Mini DV good old days. Then I noticed, dang, fine engineering do cost money but its worth it.
It is when I started using still camera housing I realized, what a dummy these still cameras manufacturers are. With today's technology, they can send out 1 data port like a Sony Lanc ( unlike Nikon's Camera Control Pro 2 which needed a PC to use ) to do very basic controls like focus only, fire the shutter only, shutter speed adjust, F adjust and ISO adjust, zoom in zoom out ( for some cameras ) and focus fine adjust if possible. Then manufacturer of UW housing can make our life and pocket easier ha ha ha.
So back to the mechanicals of UW housings. If you have access to a real life housing units of various brands, you are lucky. For me, since only very very few UW brands housing are available in my country and sales are so far in between, touching and studying latest UW housing units is not possible. I had to beg and borrow previous model housings owned by friends, play with it and learn each model's design philosophy and refer to BackScatter.com for a rear view of the controls and its internals. I then read Wetpixel reports because it has some details I may miss or details I can not get from downloading each brand's User Manual. Not all brands allow User Manual download.
My Nauticam D800 housing purchase decision is based on the above study method and a real life Nauticam D7000V inspection. My Nauticam NEX7 purchase was simple, a friend has it and I can open it up and inspect and I was thrilled.
My dream housing is this :
- Nauticam's kind of ergonomics and design philosophy
- Inon/Aquapazza magnetic based ring design for focus and zoom gear on the ports
I am choosing the Nauticam RX100 Video version because I have the 4" SmallHD monitor already and I can use it on D800 too. All I need now is that monitor housing from Nauticam, dang it is expensive.
Thanks for the RecSea review Neo. When I get my Nauticam, I will write up some report for you yah.
Later
SP
Wow, Surya - thanks for sharing so extensively! I certainly picked up on a couple of excellent points to consider when evaluating a dive housing. The translation of mechanical interfaces from a bare camera on the surface, to one that's being used at depth with coldwater gloves really does mean some of the controls are best dissected, re-scaled and re-positioned. Fortunately, like you, I 'm a tropical diver too 
I ordered the Recsea before I knew of Nauticam's offerings. My housing was on pre-order fom Bluewater as soon as I found out about it, and I might have pulled the trigger a bit too quickly...haha.
Oh, but first, a couple of important clarifications:
For travel, the whole setup is small enough to fit into a small rucksack and sit with me in the plane cabin, spare batteries, chargers et al. I'm pretty happy that to this day, I still manage to keep my full dive+photo+video gear and a week's worth of tropical clothing to just 2 pieces of luggage (rucksack + dive bag) totalling under 27KG total, meeting most stingy airline restrictions
Truly, at the end of the day, I'm sure I'd be just as comfy and happy with a Nauticam housing too. The RX100 is the real star here, and with either housing, it does appear that some ergonomic tradeoffs are inevitable. At this early stage, I see no real deal breakers in my book for either housing. I've already figured out a couple of minor workarounds for the most irritating thing on my Recsea, which is that over-sensitive D-Pad dial thingy.
So, while I look forward to your review of the Nauticam housing (especially the said video version), my most immediate priority is to get out there and dive with my new setup!
Got a dive planned for next week.. woo hoo!
BTW, are you in/from Indonesia?
cheers!
I ordered the Recsea before I knew of Nauticam's offerings. My housing was on pre-order fom Bluewater as soon as I found out about it, and I might have pulled the trigger a bit too quickly...haha.
Oh, but first, a couple of important clarifications:
Actually, I was talking about the top mode dial, on the top of the camera, to the right of the zoom rocker. Recsea's has to be pulled upwards during camera insertion, then popped back down into place to engage the o-ring, which presses down on the top face of the dial, hence the slippage, which I expected. In a casing this small, I guess there couldn't have been many other ways to do it and it works decently if you remember to push down some while turning the knob and didn't stand out as a real operational bugbear. The large front dial around the lens barrel doesn't slip at all (more on this later).
Agree with you here, and in this respect, the Recsea's gigantic front dial is a real boon. Certainly no issues using this with even the thickest gloves! As I'd observed in my own unit, this dial could do with a bit more finesse though. The control ring on mine has a tiny amount of freeplay, which makes it feel "rattly", if that makes sense. When you shake the housing, the ring is loose enough to rattle slightly. During operation, the freeplay translates ito about a wee amount of slack, giving it a slightly sloppy feel. Ultimately, because of long focus travel, precision isn't affected in practical terms. But the sloppy feel is out of character with the act of fine tuning focus. Perhaps tighter machining is all that's needed to work a better tactile experience? A great deal of the parts on the Recsea appear to have been machined (tool marks visible, even on plastic parts), not molded, so its possible this part could see quick mid-life improvement. Would love to see if an improved replacement lens dial ring is released later.
As said above, the Recsea's gear-driven front dial doesn't slip one bit. It the top mode dial which slips
How interesting! I didn't know there was a separate video version of the Nauticam! Truth be told, I shoot waaaay more video than stills underwater. But I dislike large complicated pro setups for a very long list of reasons (which I won't get into here for now). The rig I intend to dive with now is minimalist. No trays, no arms, no strobes. Its just my Recsea RX100 (for macro video and stills) with a GoProHD+LCD (wide angle video) backpac on the hotshoe. My left hand holds a tiny LED video light that's used for both video and to "light paint" the occasional still.
For travel, the whole setup is small enough to fit into a small rucksack and sit with me in the plane cabin, spare batteries, chargers et al. I'm pretty happy that to this day, I still manage to keep my full dive+photo+video gear and a week's worth of tropical clothing to just 2 pieces of luggage (rucksack + dive bag) totalling under 27KG total, meeting most stingy airline restrictions
And I really enjoyed your informative discourse on housing considerations too, SP!
Truly, at the end of the day, I'm sure I'd be just as comfy and happy with a Nauticam housing too. The RX100 is the real star here, and with either housing, it does appear that some ergonomic tradeoffs are inevitable. At this early stage, I see no real deal breakers in my book for either housing. I've already figured out a couple of minor workarounds for the most irritating thing on my Recsea, which is that over-sensitive D-Pad dial thingy.
So, while I look forward to your review of the Nauticam housing (especially the said video version), my most immediate priority is to get out there and dive with my new setup!
Got a dive planned for next week.. woo hoo!BTW, are you in/from Indonesia?
cheers!
Here are some random shots of my RX100 underwater rig, with underwater samples. I'm using the Recsea aluminium housing, which I've reviewed lightly a few posts above.
This was my first immersion with all this stuff so I was tooling around with tech checks and a lot of other preliminaries, so please forgive any lack of creativity in the shots White balance was also something I was trying to nail, so these are a little off-color too.
Hope this satisfies some curiousities out there
100
This was my first immersion with all this stuff so I was tooling around with tech checks and a lot of other preliminaries, so please forgive any lack of creativity in the shots
White balance was also something I was trying to nail, so these are a little off-color too.Hope this satisfies some curiousities out there
100
Does anyone know if the Franiec grip will be a problem for use in any of these housings - I've got a grip on order and wondering if it will be a problem for my underwater housing choice - something I want to pick up before December for a trip to Bali?
Just looked at my Recsea housing.... doesn't look like there's room for a Franiec in there. I don't have a Franiec to check for precise dimensions, but taking my mark from photos and where the RX100 lens control ring is in context within the Recsea housing, it's just too tight to fit. The camera's front panel is pretty much flush up against the inside of the housing. Perhaps the Nauticam might work? It's slightly larger than the Recsea...
Hi Neo,
Me like RX100 because its is small too hahahaah.
My apology, mode dial on top.......yes yes, I almost forgot RX100 has that.
I don't have my NEX7 housing with me, its being "whored" by my friend, meaning borrowed hahaha. However there is no need to lift the housing's mode switch on NEX7.
I took a look at NA-RX100 photo, its seems to share the same dial with its S100 cousin.
NEX7 one different design though. Will see.
Yes, me from Indonesia, where are you from ?
I am a GoPro nut case too.....ha ha ha. These are my housings in sequence of purchase date, which is also their introduction dates :
I have Sartek, Eye of Mine standard & pro and 3D ( leaked !!!!), Aquapix plastic and glass flat lens for GoPro, custom made derlin housing no button 200 meters rated from a French diver ( there was no 100 meter housing back then from Patima or UK-Germany ),BlurFix, BackScatter & GoPro Dive Housing. I like best to use UrPro Cyan from BlurFix but on BackScatter housing.
GoPro HD2 is not undewater friendly for its AWB, its more greenish than HD1.
HD1 is blueish and normal for UW even without color correction filter. You wait, the SRP-Blurfix gang will have a flip on color correction filter for your GoPro Dive Housing.
Its like the BackScatter flip one but a bit better.
If you have not messed with color correction filter for GoPro housing, take a look at my test here : ( its worth the investment )
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3aFA41PYTI
The Nauticam RX100 video housing is a bit taller to accommodate HDMI connection. If you take a look, RX100 HDMI port stupidly is hidden near the tripod hole....ha ha ha. So I don't have to guess, but I am hoping that Nauticam will make a sort of groove for this HDMI plastic cover to sit flush on camera tray in housing...........otherwise me got to cut off that HDMI plastic door. I also think the tray will have a built in HDMI 90 degrees connector/adapter or HDMI wires will break when forced to do 90 degrees bend.
Basically all newer Nauticams housing after D7000V can use an optional HMDI bulkhead, so they are video ready....... but since RX100 placed its HDMI on camera bottom and not on the sides like NEX7 or other cameras, the housing for HDMI version is taller, no choice. It will have a tray like NEX7 housing and it is more accurate a placement for a camera in a housing when there is a tray.
I too is not a photo dude, more of a video fun fun dude hahaha. I am a photo dummy too hahaha. The RX100 will be a great video tool. Its F1.8 lens compared to a kit lens NEX7 at no better than F3.5 is wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy brighter. I suggest you get a URpro Cyan screw on color correction filter for your RecSea, I am sure they have the thread size to fit RecSea.....67mm threads yes ?
RX100 probably shares the same processing engine with NEX7, it will benefit color correction filter. My friend drive his NEX7 to 7000 kelvin to get the red out without filter or lights but still it lacks the kick he said. He does more video UW than me by a far margin and does it commercially.
I am looking forward for your RX100 UW video yah...yummyyyy !!!!
Thanks Neo.
Later
SP
Me like RX100 because its is small too hahahaah.
My apology, mode dial on top.......yes yes, I almost forgot RX100 has that.
I don't have my NEX7 housing with me, its being "whored" by my friend, meaning borrowed hahaha. However there is no need to lift the housing's mode switch on NEX7.
I took a look at NA-RX100 photo, its seems to share the same dial with its S100 cousin.
NEX7 one different design though. Will see.
Yes, me from Indonesia, where are you from ?
I am a GoPro nut case too.....ha ha ha. These are my housings in sequence of purchase date, which is also their introduction dates :
I have Sartek, Eye of Mine standard & pro and 3D ( leaked !!!!), Aquapix plastic and glass flat lens for GoPro, custom made derlin housing no button 200 meters rated from a French diver ( there was no 100 meter housing back then from Patima or UK-Germany ),BlurFix, BackScatter & GoPro Dive Housing. I like best to use UrPro Cyan from BlurFix but on BackScatter housing.
GoPro HD2 is not undewater friendly for its AWB, its more greenish than HD1.
HD1 is blueish and normal for UW even without color correction filter. You wait, the SRP-Blurfix gang will have a flip on color correction filter for your GoPro Dive Housing.
Its like the BackScatter flip one but a bit better.
If you have not messed with color correction filter for GoPro housing, take a look at my test here : ( its worth the investment )
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3aFA41PYTI
The Nauticam RX100 video housing is a bit taller to accommodate HDMI connection. If you take a look, RX100 HDMI port stupidly is hidden near the tripod hole....ha ha ha. So I don't have to guess, but I am hoping that Nauticam will make a sort of groove for this HDMI plastic cover to sit flush on camera tray in housing...........otherwise me got to cut off that HDMI plastic door. I also think the tray will have a built in HDMI 90 degrees connector/adapter or HDMI wires will break when forced to do 90 degrees bend.
Basically all newer Nauticams housing after D7000V can use an optional HMDI bulkhead, so they are video ready....... but since RX100 placed its HDMI on camera bottom and not on the sides like NEX7 or other cameras, the housing for HDMI version is taller, no choice. It will have a tray like NEX7 housing and it is more accurate a placement for a camera in a housing when there is a tray.
I too is not a photo dude, more of a video fun fun dude hahaha. I am a photo dummy too hahaha. The RX100 will be a great video tool. Its F1.8 lens compared to a kit lens NEX7 at no better than F3.5 is wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy brighter. I suggest you get a URpro Cyan screw on color correction filter for your RecSea, I am sure they have the thread size to fit RecSea.....67mm threads yes ?
RX100 probably shares the same processing engine with NEX7, it will benefit color correction filter. My friend drive his NEX7 to 7000 kelvin to get the red out without filter or lights but still it lacks the kick he said. He does more video UW than me by a far margin and does it commercially.
I am looking forward for your RX100 UW video yah...yummyyyy !!!!
Thanks Neo.
Later
SP
While I have the 4" SmallHD monitor. Me must the UW housing for it and it cost more than the RX100 housing...........hick hick hick. But can be used for my D800 and NEX7, at least some consolation.
The RX100 can do focus peaking and that will be useful for macro when u add a Subsee +10 diopter. The SmallHD focus assist is not as nice ( obvious ) as RX100 focus peaking but SmallHD has "false color" to show overexposed and underexposed area of the scene. This is all new to me hahaha. Learning and learning.
.
The RX100 can do focus peaking and that will be useful for macro when u add a Subsee +10 diopter. The SmallHD focus assist is not as nice ( obvious ) as RX100 focus peaking but SmallHD has "false color" to show overexposed and underexposed area of the scene. This is all new to me hahaha. Learning and learning.
.
thanks, hmmm so I guess it's a larger housing I'll need or I'll have to remove the Franiec grip for the trip... not sure how viable that will be if I want to re-attach it later...
I'm looking to use this camera in my cold & dark home-waters, so I'll be diving it with dry-gloves most of the time. Therefore the important of decent ergonomics also with gloves.
Half press trigger sounds like an excellent thing, (if Nauticam supports that too.)
Also the knobs like the front ring should be decent, and that's where my impression from the product photos made me think that Recsea's large front-ring would be great. the rear dial is of course an issue. How well is the Nauticam front knob operated on comparable housings?
Even when I'm diving with a dual strobe set-up, I tend to only hold the left handle with left hand and hold/operate the camera with my right hand (not the handle) so the controls should allow for this.
Any other comments on ergonomics with gloves?
Cheers
O
Half press trigger sounds like an excellent thing, (if Nauticam supports that too.)
Also the knobs like the front ring should be decent, and that's where my impression from the product photos made me think that Recsea's large front-ring would be great. the rear dial is of course an issue. How well is the Nauticam front knob operated on comparable housings?
Even when I'm diving with a dual strobe set-up, I tend to only hold the left handle with left hand and hold/operate the camera with my right hand (not the handle) so the controls should allow for this.
Any other comments on ergonomics with gloves?
Cheers
O
@Surya P: Banget! Saya orang Singapura, tapi turunan orang Indonesia. My grandparents come from Djambi and Padang Very glad to know you're a video chap too, and not too far away either. Indo is probably my favourite dive destination and I've had many of my best dive encounters there. We must dive together sometime! I'm not diving much this year cos I'm broke from indulging in my new hobby (photography...haha). But now that I have a new setup, I intend to use it. My first real dive will be on a liveaboard to Malaysia next weekend. But it'll be great to meet you someday and check out your gear.
Thanks for the heads up on the filters and color issues. Yeah, I'm aware of the SRP clip on polarizer and other filters for the GoPro dive housing. Saw their youtube video. Still in proto, but am ready to whip out my credit card as soon as those filters are released... Was really torn between the old GoPro and the 2, but ended up with the newer one cos basically I assumed it will be better supported. Oh well, its money spent already, so I'll have to make the most of it. Sounds like you're heavily invested in the older version, and I almost went that route too when I dived with a friend using Eye Of Mine. The results were GREAT and that's when I decided my next rig would include one! My last UW setup was a panasonic P&S (the old FT-1/TS-1), so the quality of all my video so far is pretty meh. The 5N was suppose to be my next UW rig, but I couldn't bring myself to buy those uber-costly housings for it. I hope to up it now that I've got my RX100, I can finally bring some measure of quality into things.
Am curious to see what you do with your RX100 setup. You'll be using an external monitor you say? Wow. Serious stuff. What do you use for lights?
Very glad to know you're a video chap too, and not too far away either. Indo is probably my favourite dive destination and I've had many of my best dive encounters there. We must dive together sometime! I'm not diving much this year cos I'm broke from indulging in my new hobby (photography...haha). But now that I have a new setup, I intend to use it. My first real dive will be on a liveaboard to Malaysia next weekend. But it'll be great to meet you someday and check out your gear.Thanks for the heads up on the filters and color issues. Yeah, I'm aware of the SRP clip on polarizer and other filters for the GoPro dive housing. Saw their youtube video. Still in proto, but am ready to whip out my credit card as soon as those filters are released...
Was really torn between the old GoPro and the 2, but ended up with the newer one cos basically I assumed it will be better supported. Oh well, its money spent already, so I'll have to make the most of it. Sounds like you're heavily invested in the older version, and I almost went that route too when I dived with a friend using Eye Of Mine. The results were GREAT and that's when I decided my next rig would include one! My last UW setup was a panasonic P&S (the old FT-1/TS-1), so the quality of all my video so far is pretty meh. The 5N was suppose to be my next UW rig, but I couldn't bring myself to buy those uber-costly housings for it. I hope to up it now that I've got my RX100, I can finally bring some measure of quality into things.Am curious to see what you do with your RX100 setup. You'll be using an external monitor you say? Wow. Serious stuff. What do you use for lights?
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