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About to throw my E20 against a wall!

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Welcome to your 13th hour of wannabe photography. Get a grip. If you are so disolusioned (sp) get rid of the 20. It really amazes me how the New Guys, can save to buy the new cam, but when they get it, they are totally infuriated by the lack of instant photo.
nuff said.

--
Artorius
Respect!
 
Artorius, did you read the whole thread? He did come around and is willing to learn. OTOH, it would be interesting to know if the E-20 can survive a good smack against a wall. ;-)

Regards, Maxven
artorius said:
Welcome to your 13th hour of wannabe photography. Get a grip. If
you are so disolusioned (sp) get rid of the 20. It really amazes me
how the New Guys, can save to buy the new cam, but when they get
it, they are totally infuriated by the lack of instant photo.
nuff said.

--
Artorius
Respect!
Click to expand...
 
I had a look at the EXIF data for the first image. Exposure time is 10/25 (1/2.5) s. This is way way long. F was 2.0. Flash is used. I'd say that the built-in flash might not be powerful enough for this situation. You could up the ISO rating to 320, instead of the 80 you used. Using ISO 320 has some disadvantages, the image quality sufferes a fair bit, if nothing else. But it seems you shoot at far from the quality the camera is capable of anyway (resolution 640 x 48+ for example), this might be worth a try.

Basically, at this low resolution, you are not going to get the best performance from your camera.

The above was picked up by using my own "EXIF Viewer" on the downloaded image. Give it a try to look at the EXIF data in your images, it's free software. Download from http://www.papablues.com and then click on "Software".

EXIF Data is part of the JPEG and TIFF image of just about any current digital camera, and contains information about how the image was shot, about the camera, the time and date etc. etc. There is both generic as well as manufacturer specific information in the EXIF part of the image, currently my "EXIF Viewer" only shows the generic stuff...

Cheers
Karlsson
rejuvesite said:
I usually take pictures in the Program setting
I keep the ISO at Auto
I do not know how to read EXIF data. Is that the bar chart thing?

Here are a few samples...
http://www.rejuvesite.com/e20samples/

I know this is a high-end camera and needs some special
configuration. But I had no idea I'd have to go through this much
bologna for every picture. I don't understand why when comsumer
rigs take fine pictures without all the configuration.

If there's something in the manual you can point me to I'll reread
it and try to grasp it.

And Phil, I don't have a chip on my shoulder. I've read enough
posts on enough message boards to know when to cover my bases to
prepare for the replies of the few people who enjoy schooling
people the hard way.
Walt Palmer said:
Seriously though, we would need to know a bit more about how you're
setting the camera to take pictures. Could you give us some more
details? Do you have the camera on the (P)rogram setting? Do you
know what ISO you have it set on? Can you upload a couple of sample
shots we could reference? Do you know how to look at the EXIF data
for the pictures - if so, you could give us that information as
well.

I've seen several posts about holding the E-xx cameras steady, it
seems to be an adjustment that just takes a little time and
practice - the camera is superbly balanced, but different from most
consumer-type cameras.

If you are shooting in backlit situations (like you described) or
very contrast situations (like you described), I find the spot
meter to be essential. You can change to spot metering by pressing
the button to the left of the flash, the topmost one, and rotating
the command dial until it shows [.] on the top LCD. Now center the
frame on your subject's face, half-press and hold while you
recompose the shot before squeezing the shutter trigger.

Also, don't try using the read LCD to compose your shots - that
method is notoriously unstable and you'll get lots of camera shake.

Hope that helps.
rejuvesite said:
OK, after having over night to calm down, here's my problem...

I've had my E20n since July. The thing's done fine outside in
plenty of light. But when I'm inside in lowlight, it's a whole
different ballgame. The last straw was last night getting ready to
open presents. I point the camera at my Mom by the fire and the
picture's all blurry. I point the camera at my Dad with a reading
light behind him, and he's as dark as can be.. but the reading
light is nice and bright. Then I take a picture of Grandma in the
kitchen with all the lights on. The shutter was open FOREVER!

I know everyone's going to tell me "well you have to adjust the
settings." Then why did my cheap ol' C2020z take perfect pictures
all evening in all different settings!?!?!?!?!?!

The only time's I've ever gotten a satisfactory picture with this
thing is when I'm out in complete daylight taking pictures of
things that aren't moving.

Now, I'm sure there's someone just ready to spout their
intelligence over me and chew me out telling me I should'nt've
bought an E20 and not being prepared for it. If you're that type,
kindly click the Back button.

However if you're a nice person who's willing to help out an
armature, please assist! : -)

I know an E20's a professional camera. I knew it when I bought it.
But having to readjust and have a darn tripod for every picture I
wanna take is ridiculous.

Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
Why do you feel the need to be rude? Your reply was most definitely the least helpful in the whole thread. The guy is just trying to learn. You were a newbie once too weren't you?

Give him a break, OK?

Todd
artorius said:
Welcome to your 13th hour of wannabe photography. Get a grip. If
you are so disolusioned (sp) get rid of the 20. It really amazes me
how the New Guys, can save to buy the new cam, but when they get
it, they are totally infuriated by the lack of instant photo.
nuff said.

--
Artorius
Respect!
Click to expand...
--
Todd Walker
Olympus E20, Olympus C3020Z
http://twalker.d2g.com
 
I have not read what others have written here I just want to give you my take on this subject.

First if you are going to take hand held shots indoors you will need to add light. I do not like flash photos and do not own an external flash. External flash units are powerful and will provide more even light then the internal flash a producing best images when bounced or defused.

As I said I do not own one so what do I do. The internal flash is not all that powerful but it is all I have to work with. So I limit my picture taking to short distances pictures. I do this because the camera also does not focus consistently in low light, so I switch to manual focus which is not all that easy. Using a short distance makes it easer to do manual focus and allows one to use an aperture that will have a good a good depth of field at a short distance. You need to set the camera to A mode and a F-stop around 5.6 to have a shot at getting an image with the image that is in focus without camera shake.

I am sure other will see things in a different light. The best I can say to you is: "You should take some test shots and see if any of the Ideas presented here work for you. " If indoor is important add light studio or external flash. If you want natural light tripod and white balance you will get blurred images because of movement. You have a better tool in the E-xx then your point and shoot but you are also required to know how to use this better tool.
--
JJMack
 
Rejuvesite, I'm clad I could help. Remember, there is more then one way to so things. Just practice. Write us back 3 months from now and tells us how much you're enjoying your E20.
Todd Walker said:
Give him a break, OK?

Todd
artorius said:
Welcome to your 13th hour of wannabe photography. Get a grip. If
you are so disolusioned (sp) get rid of the 20. It really amazes me
how the New Guys, can save to buy the new cam, but when they get
it, they are totally infuriated by the lack of instant photo.
nuff said.

--
Artorius
Respect!
Click to expand...
--
Todd Walker
Olympus E20, Olympus C3020Z
http://twalker.d2g.com
Click to expand...
--
Ernie T.
 
Ernie T. said:
Rejuvesite, I'm clad I could help. Remember, there is more then one
way to so things. Just practice. Write us back 3 months from now
and tells us how much you're enjoying your E20.
Click to expand...
Or if you're a faster learner than me, write us back sooner! :)
--
Cheers,
markE
  • Oly E-20, LiPo, TCON300, TCON-14B, WCON, FL-40 Wacom Graphire II tablet, Epson PS 820
-Gallery: http://www.pbase.com/marke

 
JJMACK said:
I have not read what others have written here I just want to give
you my take on this subject.

First if you are going to take hand held shots indoors you will
need to add light. I do not like flash photos and do not own an
external flash. External flash units are powerful and will provide
more even light then the internal flash a producing best images
when bounced or defused.

As I said I do not own one so what do I do. The internal flash is
not all that powerful but it is all I have to work with. So I limit
my picture taking to short distances pictures. I do this because
the camera also does not focus consistently in low light, so I
switch to manual focus which is not all that easy. Using a short
distance makes it easer to do manual focus and allows one to use an
aperture that will have a good a good depth of field at a short
distance. You need to set the camera to A mode and a F-stop around
5.6 to have a shot at getting an image with the image that is in
focus without camera shake.

I am sure other will see things in a different light. The best I
can say to you is: "You should take some test shots and see if any
of the Ideas presented here work for you. " If indoor is important
add light studio or external flash. If you want natural light
tripod and white balance you will get blurred images because of
movement. You have a better tool in the E-xx then your point and
shoot but you are also required to know how to use this better tool.
--
JJMack
Click to expand...
--
Carlton
 
Blow me. I'll even take a picture of you doing it!
artorius said:
Welcome to your 13th hour of wannabe photography. Get a grip. If
you are so disolusioned (sp) get rid of the 20. It really amazes me
how the New Guys, can save to buy the new cam, but when they get
it, they are totally infuriated by the lack of instant photo.
nuff said.

--
Artorius
Respect!
Click to expand...
 
Definitely!!! I think I just need to get a grasp of metering and ISO. I'll read that eBook and the other site you've all suggested and see what I can do. I might even take a weekend course at a Comm.College here in town. Heck, I might meet some chicks!

Dan
markE said:
Ernie T. said:
Rejuvesite, I'm clad I could help. Remember, there is more then one
way to so things. Just practice. Write us back 3 months from now
and tells us how much you're enjoying your E20.
Click to expand...
Or if you're a faster learner than me, write us back sooner! :)
--
Cheers,
markE
  • Oly E-20, LiPo, TCON300, TCON-14B, WCON, FL-40 Wacom Graphire II
tablet, Epson PS 820
-Gallery: http://www.pbase.com/marke

Click to expand...
 
After you settle down on a book, make sure you read, read, and reread untill you have a complete understanding of exposure. Learning how to set the aperature and shutter speeds is going to be step one, once you learn how and WHY they are so important you will have a good foundation to go on.

Your first 3 pictures were taken in P mode, which means the camera sets the shutter speeds and aperature size for you, and as you found out more times that not those settings will be wrong. Once you put the camera in S(shutter priority) and set the shutter to 1/125 the camera then adjusted the aperature according to the shutter speed and gave you a much more desirable picture.

There is a serious flaw in the P mode for the E cameras, the camera just does not handle it well. Make it a priority to learn exposure and how to use the shutter speed and aperature size to get the exposuse you want....

and get the camera out of P mode ASAP!
 
Brian R Peterson said:
I really don't care how much he offended you, keep it clean, I can
promise you that the more you show this side of yourself the less
people will want to help you.
Click to expand...
Amen to that!
Phil
 
rejuvesite said:
Definitely!!! I think I just need to get a grasp of metering and
ISO. I'll read that eBook and the other site you've all suggested
and see what I can do. I might even take a weekend course at a
Comm.College here in town. Heck, I might meet some chicks!
Click to expand...
LOL - It's great to have young blood in the forum. And ya know, those "camera chicks" are the greatest!
--
Cheers,
markE
  • Oly E-20, LiPo, TCON300, TCON-14B, WCON, FL-40 Wacom Graphire II tablet, Epson PS 820
-Gallery: http://www.pbase.com/marke

 
Brian and Rejuvesite,

I find that P mode works pretty well when in good light, however, I learned from others on this forum that when using flash, put it in S mode and set the shutter to 1/125 or faster.

With respect to any mode, you can see what the camera is doing (shutter speed and f-stop) in the viewfinder. If you see that the shutter speed is too slow for handheld, then you need to make adjustments.

What I really miss is a matched needle type of exposure meter as it allowed me to make finer adjustments than just 1/3 EV increments. Oh for the good old days... ;-)

What I've learned is for general outddor shooting: P mode; for flash: S mode; for sports: S mode; and for macro or portraits: A mode. Of course others will disagree with me, but that's OK. :-)
--
Thanks.

Cleave
 
I know saying this isnt really nice but, rhis is why i never recommend an over 1000$ camera to someone who doesent know what their doing, i mean its the photographer who takes the picture the camera is only hes tool. Ive seen plenty nice oly e-series pictures, maybe youve got a faulty camera or something?
 
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