GH2 Tip - shooting at +1ev improves exposures.

[Activatedfx]

While I love, love, love the GH2, I've also been frustrated that images seem to always need a +1 bump in Lightroom to achieve correct exposure. I think the GH2 is, by default, under-metering by about a stop.

So lately I've been shooting with +1 ev no matter WHAT I'm shooting, and my exposures have been pretty much spot on ever since. I'd rather have to dial in a little negative exposure in Lightroom, than have to boost exposure and compromise shadow noise.

Shooting at +1ev also seems to help the overall dynamic range in general.

One other thing: since the LCD gives an "optimized" view of the captured image (usually brighter than it really is), I always check the Histogram, and adjust the aperture or shutter speed accordingly.

Anyone else finding this to be true? Since making this change, I've been so much happier with my GH2 captures!

 

[larsbc]

Activatedfx wrote:
[snip]

Anyone else finding this to be true? Since making this change, I've been so much happier with my GH2 captures!

I generally shoot with zero exposure compensation, or maybe -.3 ev. I'm more concerned with blown highlights. I do agree that the GH2 leans toward underexposure but imo that's a good thing.

FWIW I shoot raw, not jpg.

larsbc

 

[Kung Pao Panda]

ETTR?

--
Like others here, I suffer from chronic GAS.
Gear Acquisition Syndrome.
a few hundred nautical miles SW : 17º 52S, 149º 56W

 

[tedolf]

While I love, love, love the GH2, I've also been frustrated that images seem to always need a +1 bump in Lightroom to achieve correct exposure. I think the GH2 is, by default, under-metering by about a stop.

So lately I've been shooting with +1 ev no matter WHAT I'm shooting, and my exposures have been pretty much spot on ever since. I'd rather have to dial in a little negative exposure in Lightroom, than have to boost exposure and compromise shadow noise.

Shooting at +1ev also seems to help the overall dynamic range in general.

One other thing: since the LCD gives an "optimized" view of the captured image (usually brighter than it really is), I always check the Histogram, and adjust the aperture or shutter speed accordingly.

Anyone else finding this to be true? Since making this change, I've been so much happier with my GH2 captures!

I don't have a GH-2 but if it consistently underexposes by one fulll F stop someone would have noticed by now.

I mean, really.

Tedolph

 

[tedolf]

ETTR?

and the acronyms lately.

Have you developed some sort of speach impediment?

Some form of digital Tourette's Syndrome?

--
Like others here, I suffer from chronic GAS.
Gear Acquisition Syndrome.
a few hundred nautical miles SW : 17º 52S, 149º 56W

 

[Bob Meyer]

What is it with your need to always be critical?

 

[npa201]

This isn't the first time I've read something like this on the GH2. I've also found when shooting photos and particularly video that by compensating like this I get better results. I don't always do this but have noticed this trend on the GH2. Again, this isn't the first time I've read this.

 

[exdeejjjaaaa]

I always check the Histogram, and adjust the aperture or shutter speed accordingly.

do yourself a favor, google for uniwb

 

[Dr Hal]

I think that you are correct. I hate blown highlights so I do not usually compensate as I do shoot in raw. On gray days, I do compensate because the pictures are just too dull. In tricky lighting, or in situations where I know I will probably never have a chance to retake the picture, I use the auto bracket.

Hal

 

[Bobo Hodls]

Do you vary widely in subject matter and types of compositions, or are you talking about bright daylight shooting in general?

For the most part I've found with the GH2, as with most, I'm on the negative EC side usually, but it's dependant on the scene. I ETTR as much any landscape devotee will (and still have shadows to raise) in practice, but again one's findings are based on what one chases along with their choice of meteringmode.

You might want to experiment with the metering modes, see which for you is more consistent, more pratical and logical in your hands. There was a period where I set out to use, for at least 3 months straight, the metering mode I was least comfortable with. So I got to know 'em, and found I had a preference. While I never could gripe too much about evaluative/matrix/multi-weighted, I always gravitated back to Center-weighted, and sometimes Spot metering. YMMV

--
...Bob, NYC
http://www.bobtullis.com

"Well, sometimes the magic works. . . Sometimes, it doesn't." - Little Big Man
.

 

[Corkcampbell]

no text

 

[apekkpul]

Google proposed: Expose To The Right.

Pekka

 

[exdeejjjaaaa]

Google proposed: Expose To The Right.

Pekka

ETTR is more unprecise w/o UniWB because w/o UniWB your in-camera histogram lies quite a bit more... for example for tungsten light you can easily dial in something like EV+2 (2 stops) and still get no clipping (w/ UniWB you see that there is no clipping using in camera review, w/o you see that clipping is present)

1) camera histogram w/o UniWB - shows that red channel is clipped (but it is not really)

2) camera histogram w/ UniWB

3) real raw histogram of the 2nd shot :



for GH2 you can set a WB (custom) using this image (on screen) :



it shall give you approx 1%-4% error

and then fine tune R-G-B-G multipliers using custom WB adjustment ("A" : "B" / "G+" : "M-") to ~ 1% error or less, for example on my GH2 camera, one notch towards

"A" along the "A" : "B" axos makes multipliers = 1.000000 1.015209 1.015209 1.015209, which is OK.

or you can create your own image for custom UniWB - procedure is described a lot all over the internet.

 

[exdeejjjaaaa]

 

[Kung Pao Panda]

Tadolph,

Here's another one for you:
GKMA

ETTR?

and the acronyms lately.

Have you developed some sort of speach impediment?

Some form of Tourette's Syndrome?

--

 

[toxotis700]

Can you describe please this method with more details ?

Google proposed: Expose To The Right.

Pekka

ETTR is more unprecise w/o UniWB because w/o UniWB your in-camera histogram lies quite a bit more... for example for tungsten light you can easily dial in something like EV+2 (2 stops) and still get no clipping (w/ UniWB you see that there is no clipping using in camera review, w/o you see that clipping is present)

1) camera histogram w/o UniWB - shows that red channel is clipped (but it is not really)

2) camera histogram w/ UniWB

3) real raw histogram of the 2nd shot :



for GH2 you can set a WB (custom) using this image (on screen) :



it shall give you approx 1%-4% error

and then fine tune R-G-B-G multipliers using custom WB adjustment ("A" : "B" / "G+" : "M-") to ~ 1% error or less, for example on my GH2 camera, one notch towards

"A" along the "A" : "B" axos makes multipliers = 1.000000 1.015209 1.015209 1.015209, which is OK.

or you can create your own image for custom UniWB - procedure is described a lot all over the internet.

 

[exdeejjjaaaa]

Can you describe please this method with more details ?

http://www.guillermoluijk.com/tutorial/uniwb/index_en.htm

 

[Robiro]

Anyone else finding this to be true?

Your observation is spot on!

I have a GH2 and I am facing similar problems.

GH2 constantly underexposes shots. It is too conservative.

I was hoping they would be correcting this with the new firmware but they would not.

I am upset about this video trend. I bought GH2 for still images. But all Panasonic does is converting this thing into a camcorder.

If they want a camcorder out of GH2, they should be selling it as a camcorder!

PANASONIC!!! There are people out there for whom STILL images are a priority! So stop overly concentrating on movie modies, movie lenses, movie optimization of your STILL cameras. We want fast lenses, we want better JPEG processing, we want better colors out of the camera.

We DON'T WANT no power zooms. Because we bought your products as DIGITAL STILL CAMERAS with a side feature - movie recording!

 

[papillon_65]

While I love, love, love the GH2, I've also been frustrated that images seem to always need a +1 bump in Lightroom to achieve correct exposure. I think the GH2 is, by default, under-metering by about a stop.

So lately I've been shooting with +1 ev no matter WHAT I'm shooting, and my exposures have been pretty much spot on ever since. I'd rather have to dial in a little negative exposure in Lightroom, than have to boost exposure and compromise shadow noise.

Shooting at +1ev also seems to help the overall dynamic range in general.

One other thing: since the LCD gives an "optimized" view of the captured image (usually brighter than it really is), I always check the Histogram, and adjust the aperture or shutter speed accordingly.

Anyone else finding this to be true? Since making this change, I've been so much happier with my GH2 captures!

I don't have a GH-2 but if it consistently underexposes by one fulll F stop someone would have noticed by now.

The GH2 does generally underexpose by about a stop, at least mine does, and dialling in +1 exp compensation is not unusual. This will depend on what metering mode you are using but the default will give this result. It's nothing new and nothing to get excited about.

I mean, really.

Tedolph

--
It's a known fact that where there's tea there's hope.
Tony
http://the-random-photographer.blogspot.com/

 

[papillon_65]

While I love, love, love the GH2, I've also been frustrated that images seem to always need a +1 bump in Lightroom to achieve correct exposure. I think the GH2 is, by default, under-metering by about a stop.

So lately I've been shooting with +1 ev no matter WHAT I'm shooting, and my exposures have been pretty much spot on ever since. I'd rather have to dial in a little negative exposure in Lightroom, than have to boost exposure and compromise shadow noise.

Shooting at +1ev also seems to help the overall dynamic range in general.

One other thing: since the LCD gives an "optimized" view of the captured image (usually brighter than it really is), I always check the Histogram, and adjust the aperture or shutter speed accordingly.

Anyone else finding this to be true? Since making this change, I've been so much happier with my GH2 captures!

This is a common phenomenon when shooting in multiple metering mode. The easy way around it is to use the ETTR method and watch the histogram. I find that the camera can indicate blown highlights when this isn't happening with the raw file. The histogram is based on the jpeg output so allow for about 2/3's of a stop extra headroom in the raw file and you won't go far wrong.
--
It's a known fact that where there's tea there's hope.
Tony
http://the-random-photographer.blogspot.com/