How Andrzej Dragan does it...

bleedingpatriot

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It seems that a lot of people are intereseted in Andrzej Dragan's work and have tried to reverse engineer the technique. From what I have gathered from this forum (special thanks to Kent Christiansen's summary page) is that nobody has been able to figure out what the "light retouch" technique is. I think I may have it figured out. If you are new to this you should check out Kent's excellent site at http://porg.4t.com/kcdragan.html for all of the background.

So here is the before:



and after:



This is what I did...

1. First throw a mild s curve on with curves to boost the contrast a little this makes it easier to see the shadows.

2. Create a curves adjustment layer. Reduce the highlight end to 25-35% and add another control point to make the plot a curve instead of a straight line. Your image should be quite dark now.

3. Choose the brush tool and use a gentle, feathered brush. I had the hardness set to around 15% and the opacity set to about 25%. Switch your active color to black and paint over the curves adjustment layer. This lets some of the original image (or light) back in. Initially, I used a brush about the width of the guy's head and did a lot of brushing to bring his head back to normal and to bring the shirt up a little bit. This left the background dark.

4. Choose white as your active color. Here is where it gets good. I like to call this technique "painting with shadows". You will need to have some patience for this to look good. Use your brush to paint white over the curves adjustment layer bringing shadow back in. Enhance all of the shadows in the image making them just dark enough that you can still see a bit of detail in them.

5. Make a duplicate of the background image and place it on top of the layers pile. Convert this layer to a high contrast black and white image. A technique which emphasizes the imperfections works best.

6. Run a high pass filter on this layer. Experiment with the radius until the filter looks like an embossed version of the guy's head, almost 3d. Then run USM on this layer a few times to really bring out the contrast. Between each iteration I did an Edit > fade USM and set blend mode to darken. When you are satisfied set the blend mode of this layer to soft light.

7. Next I created a Hue/Sat adjustment layer. Adjust the Hue to get a slightly sickly tone and adjust the Saturation down some to taste. I used +8 Hue and -11 Sat for mine.

8. After that I created a new curves adjustment layer and put in a fairly steep s curve to boost the contrast even more.

9. Next I created a new pixel bearing layer and set the mode to overlay. I chose a nice shade of cyan and painted over the eyes to enhance them.

10. Then I created another pixel bearing layer and set the mode to overlay. I picked a color that would give the image an antique look. I chose a shade of brown. Use the paint bucket to fill in the layer. Adjust the opacity to suit. I used 35%.

11. Lastly I created a levels adjustment layer and used it to boost the highlights to give it that "glow".

Here is what my layers pallete looked like when I was done:



And that is about it. If you participated in the discussion about this a long time ago then the image I used will look familiar. My result may differ from Andrzej's in some small way but I think the technique is sound. I don't have a studio to that I can use to prove it but I figure that by sharing we'll find out. Every artist will come up with something a little different.

My observation (and that of others) is that this technique takes a lot of artistic intuition and patience. Every image with be a little different, making it almost impossible to boil down to an action. After understanding the basic techniques and I simply worked until it looked right.

I owe a lot of credit to the folks at this forum and around the web for sharing the techniques I used for this. I really learned a lot about blending modes, filter techniques, and color theory by researching this. Special thanks to John Waller's work which originally got me interested in this (one thing leads to another...). Also, check out this tutorial from Adobe for more info on "painting with light/shadows", http://www.ecs.fau.edu/Training/downloads/tips_tricks.pdf

Lastly, if this is old news and I somehow missed it all then forgive me for making you suffer through such a long post.
--

'The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants.' -Thomas Jefferson

http://bleedingpatriot.blogspot.com
 
Appreciate the kudos for the dragan link, but you might have used some of the info in it, like what has already been said by Dragan himself publically - use of the blue channel, etc. etc. The left side of the image looks way over burned, like overdoing the burn tool, regardless of how you got there. Perhaps the smaller sized image doesn't do the image justice. That said, following Pam R's tutorial (oft cited here) on Jim Radcliffe's cowboy is probably the closest one could get, imho.
--
Kent

http://www.pbase.com/kentc
For prior discussions on most questions:
http://porg.4t.com/KentC.html
or d/l 'archives' at:
http://www.atncentral.com
 
everyone has their own technique so it's good to see how others approach the subject. Can you post larger pics? The small ones are hard to tell what they look like.
It seems that a lot of people are intereseted in Andrzej Dragan's
work and have tried to reverse engineer the technique. From what I
have gathered from this forum (special thanks to Kent
Christiansen's summary page) is that nobody has been able to figure
out what the "light retouch" technique is. I think I may have it
figured out. If you are new to this you should check out Kent's
excellent site at http://porg.4t.com/kcdragan.html for all of the
background.

So here is the before:



and after:



This is what I did...

1. First throw a mild s curve on with curves to boost the contrast
a little this makes it easier to see the shadows.

2. Create a curves adjustment layer. Reduce the highlight end to
25-35% and add another control point to make the plot a curve
instead of a straight line. Your image should be quite dark now.

3. Choose the brush tool and use a gentle, feathered brush. I had
the hardness set to around 15% and the opacity set to about 25%.
Switch your active color to black and paint over the curves
adjustment layer. This lets some of the original image (or light)
back in. Initially, I used a brush about the width of the guy's
head and did a lot of brushing to bring his head back to normal and
to bring the shirt up a little bit. This left the background dark.

4. Choose white as your active color. Here is where it gets good. I
like to call this technique "painting with shadows". You will need
to have some patience for this to look good. Use your brush to
paint white over the curves adjustment layer bringing shadow back
in. Enhance all of the shadows in the image making them just dark
enough that you can still see a bit of detail in them.

5. Make a duplicate of the background image and place it on top of
the layers pile. Convert this layer to a high contrast black and
white image. A technique which emphasizes the imperfections works
best.

6. Run a high pass filter on this layer. Experiment with the radius
until the filter looks like an embossed version of the guy's head,
almost 3d. Then run USM on this layer a few times to really bring
out the contrast. Between each iteration I did an Edit > fade USM
and set blend mode to darken. When you are satisfied set the blend
mode of this layer to soft light.

7. Next I created a Hue/Sat adjustment layer. Adjust the Hue to get
a slightly sickly tone and adjust the Saturation down some to
taste. I used +8 Hue and -11 Sat for mine.

8. After that I created a new curves adjustment layer and put in a
fairly steep s curve to boost the contrast even more.

9. Next I created a new pixel bearing layer and set the mode to
overlay. I chose a nice shade of cyan and painted over the eyes to
enhance them.

10. Then I created another pixel bearing layer and set the mode to
overlay. I picked a color that would give the image an antique
look. I chose a shade of brown. Use the paint bucket to fill in the
layer. Adjust the opacity to suit. I used 35%.

11. Lastly I created a levels adjustment layer and used it to boost
the highlights to give it that "glow".

Here is what my layers pallete looked like when I was done:



And that is about it. If you participated in the discussion about
this a long time ago then the image I used will look familiar. My
result may differ from Andrzej's in some small way but I think the
technique is sound. I don't have a studio to that I can use to
prove it but I figure that by sharing we'll find out. Every artist
will come up with something a little different.

My observation (and that of others) is that this technique takes a
lot of artistic intuition and patience. Every image with be a
little different, making it almost impossible to boil down to an
action. After understanding the basic techniques and I simply
worked until it looked right.

I owe a lot of credit to the folks at this forum and around the web
for sharing the techniques I used for this. I really learned a lot
about blending modes, filter techniques, and color theory by
researching this. Special thanks to John Waller's work which
originally got me interested in this (one thing leads to
another...). Also, check out this tutorial from Adobe for more info
on "painting with light/shadows",
http://www.ecs.fau.edu/Training/downloads/tips_tricks.pdf

Lastly, if this is old news and I somehow missed it all then
forgive me for making you suffer through such a long post.
--
'The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the
blood of patriots and tyrants.' -Thomas Jefferson

http://bleedingpatriot.blogspot.com
 
I didn't post the original's because they were low res files and shrinking them down concealed some noise that I found distracting. Here they are anyway.

before:



after:



I did a lot of research to put this together, days in fact. I guess I missed Pam R's tutorial along the way. This method excited me enough though that I thought I would share it, even though my execution is imperfect.
--

'The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants.' -Thomas Jefferson

http://bleedingpatriot.blogspot.com
 
bleedingpatriot
I did a lot of research to put this together, days in fact. I guess
I missed Pam R's tutorial along the way. This method excited me
enough though that I thought I would share it, even though my
execution is imperfect.
No problem that's how we learn....

Here's some links - I was referring to the first one...

Pam’s Dragan/grundge tutorials

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1006&message=14128883
lighting
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1006&message=11555792
Dragan eye tut
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1006&message=11038242
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1006&message=14127257
Old soldier
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1006&message=11384506
'The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the
blood of patriots and tyrants.' -Thomas Jefferson
My favorite TJ quote Time to 'refresh', perhaps.... ;-)
--
Kent

http://www.pbase.com/kentc
For prior discussions on most questions:
http://porg.4t.com/KentC.html
or d/l 'archives' at:
http://www.atncentral.com
 
The second one is getting into the pitfall that we often make with draganizing...too much contrast.

I'm sure you have 20 versions and can only post your favorites...at least that is how it is with me.

Here is my new favorite attempt. My previous favorite was about the same skin color as yours. I actually like the red tone more...maybe I'll go back to it tomorrow! ;-)


I tryed out 2 completely different ways.....

1.



and 2. (wait 3 seconds)



--
Brian James

 
I was playing with lighting on this one and could be softer. Levels OUTPUT would fix it.


I didn't post the original's because they were low res files and
shrinking them down concealed some noise that I found distracting.
Here they are anyway.

before:



after:



I did a lot of research to put this together, days in fact. I guess
I missed Pam R's tutorial along the way. This method excited me
enough though that I thought I would share it, even though my
execution is imperfect.
--
'The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the
blood of patriots and tyrants.' -Thomas Jefferson

http://bleedingpatriot.blogspot.com
 
I really really like the way the soldier turned out.

Don't be too hard on yourself Bleedingpatriot, we have all tried and have all here to this date failed. Some feel they have come close but all you have to do is capture a Dragan image and open it up side be side with anyone’s attempt and unless one has no eye at all for retouching you'll be very disappointed when you realize and say to yourself "Man, that Dragan IS good, back to the drawing board".

I think we should all keep trying though. One of us will almost nail it someday and we can all have fun Draganizing.

This as close as I ever got and its still not their yet (I'm not one to fool myself) but I had a great time learning a little more about Dragan and his awesome art.



 
I took a look at Pam R's technique and it is very good. I really like the soldier too. Too bad I didn't run into that a couple of days ago. It might have saved all the frustration I went through! I learned a lot though, hopefully I'll be able to apply it to other kinds of photos as well.

cspringer, I really like your latest version. It looks masterfully done to me.
--

'The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants.' -Thomas Jefferson

http://bleedingpatriot.blogspot.com
 
I took a look at Pam R's technique and it is very good. I really
like the soldier too. Too bad I didn't run into that a couple of
days ago. It might have saved all the frustration I went through! I
learned a lot though, hopefully I'll be able to apply it to other
kinds of photos as well.
More - some on applying the technique to other types of photos - landscapes, etc....

Gcam’s image
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1006&message=14352230
Corn shucker
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1006&message=14282846
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1006&message=14288185
Nepal image workflow
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1006&message=14223429
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1006&message=15932992
Old farm workflow
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1006&message=14196783
Old time – boats
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1006&message=14107988
Day to night tut
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1006&message=14378771

megl’s tutorial – in the style of Dragan, Fiscus, Waldman

http://www.bechbox.dk/pwl/

--
Kent

http://www.pbase.com/kentc
For prior discussions on most questions:
http://porg.4t.com/KentC.html
or d/l 'archives' at:
http://www.atncentral.com
 
I like the color one...nice job on the hands.
I really really like the way the soldier turned out.

Don't be too hard on yourself Bleedingpatriot, we have all tried
and have all here to this date failed. Some feel they have come
close but all you have to do is capture a Dragan image and open it
up side be side with anyone’s attempt and unless one has no eye at
all for retouching you'll be very disappointed when you realize and
say to yourself "Man, that Dragan IS good, back to the drawing
board".

I think we should all keep trying though. One of us will almost
nail it someday and we can all have fun Draganizing.

This as close as I ever got and its still not their yet (I'm not
one to fool myself) but I had a great time learning a little more
about Dragan and his awesome art.



 
I honestly couldn't do it again the same way if you held a gun to my head.

I can tell you what I did as a start though.

I opened in PSCS2 a Dragan image off his site and studied the heck out of it. I really tried to look at the eyes and the shadows and figure out his lighting first of all. I really believe his lighting is the most important thing. After I felt I had a good idea of his lighting technique I went to my studio and spent all day playing with different light setups. Like I say I haven't achieved his exact look yet but it really has been fun learning from it all. I pulled my studio shots into PSCS2 and then just tried everything in the book and played like crazy.

Here are the original for what it's worth. Sorry I couldn't give you a work flow. Actually ever since I did these 2 tries and couldn't remember what the heck I did, I now take notes when I think I may be onto something decent.

http://www.portraitfactory.net/1.jpg

http://www.portraitfactory.net/2.jpg
 
...has anyone played around with heavier than usual noise reduction on their 'Draganized' images? I don't mean heavy to the point of the illustrated look, but just somewhere in between that and normal levels.

I wonder if it will add to that quality we try to achieve. Of course so much of what he does has to be superb lighting too. Still though, that tone he gets... Well, I'll keep trying. :-)

Have you noticed Dragan seems to have gone into a rather 'dark' period with some of his work lately? Not just with his processing, but his subjects and the music too!

--
Andy (Critiques Always Welcome)
FCAS Member #120
http://imageevent.com/ajrphotos
 
...has anyone played around with heavier than usual noise reduction
on their 'Draganized' images? I don't mean heavy to the point of
the illustrated look, but just somewhere in between that and normal
levels.

I wonder if it will add to that quality we try to achieve. Of
course so much of what he does has to be superb lighting too. Still
though, that tone he gets... Well, I'll keep trying. :-)
Wouldn't hurt to try. Rob, RJjr makes a good point on cameras on Ray's thread. I think the softer focus of some Canons - like what Andrzej uses - inevitably contributes to the 'look'.
Have you noticed Dragan seems to have gone into a rather 'dark'
period with some of his work lately? Not just with his processing,
but his subjects and the music too!
Yeah. Staying ahead of the simulations? :-) No need to worry, lol. I like the earlier stuff but it's interesting where he goes.

--
Kent

http://www.pbase.com/kentc
For prior discussions on most questions:
http://porg.4t.com/KentC.html
or d/l 'archives' at:
http://www.atncentral.com
 
I know what you mean. I look at my old edits and wonder how I did them. I often try dozens of layers too (it feels like less than a second!) and discard them immediately. It's hard to post instructions on these type of pics.
Are those the pictures you wanted to post? Check the links
I honestly couldn't do it again the same way if you held a gun to
my head.

I can tell you what I did as a start though.

I opened in PSCS2 a Dragan image off his site and studied the heck
out of it. I really tried to look at the eyes and the shadows and
figure out his lighting first of all. I really believe his lighting
is the most important thing. After I felt I had a good idea of his
lighting technique I went to my studio and spent all day playing
with different light setups. Like I say I haven't achieved his
exact look yet but it really has been fun learning from it all. I
pulled my studio shots into PSCS2 and then just tried everything in
the book and played like crazy.

Here are the original for what it's worth. Sorry I couldn't give
you a work flow. Actually ever since I did these 2 tries and
couldn't remember what the heck I did, I now take notes when I
think I may be onto something decent.

http://www.portraitfactory.net/1.jpg

http://www.portraitfactory.net/2.jpg
 
It's Photoshop...there are a hundred ways to do the same effect, i.e., I PWL with layer modes, others use curves, others dodge and burn tools, or filters. Dragan's look is not as contrasty as many attempts are. I find Levels OUTPUT an easy fix to tone it down and give the softness I'm looking for.
...has anyone played around with heavier than usual noise reduction
on their 'Draganized' images? I don't mean heavy to the point of
the illustrated look, but just somewhere in between that and normal
levels.

I wonder if it will add to that quality we try to achieve. Of
course so much of what he does has to be superb lighting too. Still
though, that tone he gets... Well, I'll keep trying. :-)

Have you noticed Dragan seems to have gone into a rather 'dark'
period with some of his work lately? Not just with his processing,
but his subjects and the music too!

--
Andy (Critiques Always Welcome)
FCAS Member #120
http://imageevent.com/ajrphotos
 

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