Landscape photography has unique requirements, and Chris Niccolls has strong opinions about what most compelling options are. He'll walks you through his picks for the best landscape photography cameras at three different budgets.
I think we are pretty much beyond "the best" camera for anything other than extreme situations (BIF, etc). Pretty much any new camera has a sensor good enough for landscape applications. The better question is which lens to use with each camera.
The best landscape camera is a curious question, as most cameras are made to be held horizontally. Both more seriously, a better comparison would've been what's the best lens, or focal lengths, for landscape photography.
That’s subjective as well though. Traditionally sure a wide angle is best but linger focal lengths have taken some astonishing photos as well. Plus, as someone who owns a Z6 and a Z7 - I’m taking the Z7 every time for landscapes. There’s a tangible difference in rendering.
Good point. I guess when I was thinking of "landscape", I was thinking of the traditional expansive wide-angle shots, but you're right that longer focal lengths are used too. But in terms of cameras, wouldn't a camera that's good at landscape photography be also good at portrait photography?
My opinion is that it's very difficult to beat the Olympus cameras with that computational photography for landscapes. They make an honorable mention of it at least, but I don't see how the Nikon Z5 beats out a camera that not only has all those features (especially Live ND and the handheld long exposure and Starry AF stuff) but has a high res mode that takes you up to 50MP *handheld*, or 80MP tripod. You don't even need to spend between $1,000 and $3,000 if you just got a E-M1 Mk III (which admittedly is on the used market). I don't think the better noise performance of FF--especially with all the tools out there today to reduce noise and the better performance of the newer Olympus sensors--overcomes those computational advantages and the hi-res mode, not to mention you often have to hike (you know, *carry* gear) to get great landscapes.
I've realized my mistake. It's the camera you don't have with you. Because when you get home and look at the sad collection of photos you've taken you can comfort yourself with the thought that a more expensive camera would have allowed you to take much better ones.
A converse question might be this: what landscapes are best for cameras? My guess is that they are apt to be very remote, expensive to visit, prone to fickle weather, have rough or dramatic surfaces, and be sparsely inhabited by exotic flocks of beasts or rustic humans. Aerial perspectives help. Maybe a dead tree or a wreck. An extremely familiar or iconic landmark also sells. However, these days, a magical ability to enhance or conjure a scene in post seems to be the key to earn wows or kudos. Let's fill that sky with a giant moon, funnel clouds, auroras, hovering ospreys, or even a UFO or four.
Landscape is probably one of the least demanding genres of photography in regards to the camera. Most modern cameras can capture enough detail and DR that you can't really pick up a "bad" landscape camera these days. Even the sub $1000 cameras do a great job too. The only advantage I guess I could see from the more expensive bodies is if you are shooting handheld and/or at high ISOs... then that's where those might outperform some of the cheaper cameras or ones with a smaller sensor (APSC) but in general, most cameras are perfectly fine for landscape and you'd probably not be able to tell the difference in most cases (if someone used an $1000 APSC or $3000+ FF camera). As always, the glass (quality) is probably going to be more important than the body itself.
This is why I myself am perfectly fine with "slower" cameras like the Z7 II. I don't need fast AF for landscape, and half the time, I'm doing manual focus anyway.
I just don’t see the point of choosing Canon with limited DR sensors, NR appliied to raw files in camera and no advantage from a lens standpoint either, not possibility to adapt other mirrorless glass, a poor track record in terms of weather sealing,…
Not in a world with Fuji, Sony, Nikon, Sigma,… Why shoot I shoot myself in the foot by selecting inferior equipment?
While I haven't compared, some of the newer Canon's do have newer sensors in them, and with this, I would assume that they've done something to keep them up to snuff in regards to things like high ISO performance and DR... I mean all companies have done one of the "recycled parts" deals to save money (Nikon did this with the Z5, and Canon did this with some of the newer DSLR bodies, where they would take a 5 year old sensor and put it into a budget camera) but on the higher-end of things, I think they have offered pretty competitive sensors (atl east on the R6/R5).
Are you saying that the world is made up of one winner and all loosers of equal mediocrity?
How is the non selection of Sony a proof that their sensors are equally bad as Canon’s?
The reality is that today the only reason to pick Canon RF is if you need good AF performance at mid range prices. Period.
If you need better image quality you go Sony or Nikon, If you need the best AF performance you go Sony or Nikon, If you need the best lenses, especially pro long glass,you go Nikon, If you need the access to the widest set of lenses you go Nikon.
Canon has positionned itself as a volume player who is just pretending to still do high end for the show.
"If you need the best AF performance you go Sony or Nikon,"
Not sure I would go with Nikon for best AF performance. Sony or Canon, sure. With the exception of the DSLRs and the Z9 perhaps, Nikon fell behind in the AF department on their other bodies, and they have some work to do. Hopefully a revised Z6 III / Z7 III or a Z8 brings them back into the game.... but their current bodies trail Canon and Sony in AF. IQ is probably more debateable and may depend on a few things like resolution and high ISO performance. Sony wins in the resolution department, but Canon or Nikon might win in other respects to IQ.
(BTW I shoot NIkon so I know where they stand in relation to the others...)
PL... Who said anything about losers or winner but you. You gave the example of Canon not being picked so I pointed out the FACT that Sony was not picked either, and that you should apply the same convoluted logic. And then you go off on Canon being inferior based on your BS. And the funniest part is that you probably believe it...
Not quite as funny as you feeling the need to react to what you apparently read as an attack on your brand of choice while the intent was merely to correct an a generic statement about all equipments being more or less equal…
I don’t think they are.
They are probably good enough for a majority of people but I happen to strive for excellence in everything I do and I don’t recognize that in Canon’s strategic choices. Pure facts.
PL - Most pro's shoot Canon, FACT. So using your logic most Pro's don't strive for excellence, which is the exact opposite. Now most amateur think that having better camera specs will make them better photographers, which is never the case. Most amateur settle for third party lenses because they can't afford first party lenses. FACT. I just hope you'll figure that out someday...
I don’t know any pro still shooting only Canon. The large majority completely migrated to Sony, some kept a few Canon bodies and lenses in parallel to the other brands they migrated to as their main system. That is in Japan.
Photographers in other countries may be less agile in terms of changing equipment but regardless, Canon isn’t gaining many new pros, they are really struggling to keep them on board and a majority of those still on board simply can’t afford to jump ship or don’t need top performing equipment for what they do.
I never said Canon was terrible. They deliver very competent equipment able to satisfy the vast majority of photographers. My point is they are just not the best.
I would've added the Sigma FP-L in the sub 3k bracket. It has a very large sensor and it's very small and compact so no backbreaking while hiking all day. The lack of viewfinder or tilting screen is not an issue for landscape and it can also record some of the best video if you want to get some nice footage.
I have no problem with OM-1, E-M1 mk II/III using flip finger PGYTECH gloves in snow or rain. In extreme cold I won’t expose fingers. In mild winters I use thin liner-type merino gloves. It just needs getting used to it. I am sure this is the case with any camera using gloves, not the easiest handling.
Hello again With my old LADA, up to the mountains, across african desserts, to my homeland at the lake of constance. Switzerland, Germany and Austria. And in my hand, the one and only niche camera you can buy for money. The beloved SIGMA dp0 Quattro with its 21mm world leading quality lens. It's gorgeous. Thats landscape photography is for. Go Chris, go!
Cat Photography in Candle-Lit attics, surely.... (A bit of a play on the "Societies" in the UK, started out as the "Society of Wedding and Portrait Photographers" (SWPP) then added every possible 4-letter photography possibility, then went to 5 letters... Do you Photography Goldfish in an Attic by Candle-light, that's the SAGCP... etc. Great show/convention each year BTW...
@ thisisbenji: The in-phone magic falls apart in plenty of situations when you shoot in RAW using apps such as Lightroom Mobile. Don't get me wrong: that app offers a slick and surprisingly usable UI but the output is often sub-par when compared with in-phone magic. Evidently, app developers do not get access to all the built-in phone functions and are simply presented with a more or less pleasing RAW file. Night shots? They don't convince me. Strong contrasts? Not good either.
The reason why I don't like to use a phone for photos is simply poor usability. In some situations a phone may render a more pleasing photo than a 'proper' camera, but using the phone is not a joy.
1) When Fuji has equivalents of the 16-35mm f/2.8 and ultra wide zoom such as 11-24mm or 12-24mm, then it'll compete in the landscape category against other FF cameras imho.
2) You said that a Z9 would be overkill and that we'd pay more money for features not required for landscape. Well, the Z9 does be cheaper than the GFX100S anyways.
I don't shoot MF, but my understanding is that due to the crop factor and the 4:3, you don't really need typical FF ultra-wide focal lengths. And, let's face it: many landscape FF shooters don't need those FLs either, though of course it's nice to have the option,
On the Z9, the point remains. Yes, it's a bit cheaper than a GFX. But for landscape work, it's not providing a benefit over a Z7x, though it costs a couple grand more. And if you pay up for the GFX 100, you will at least get the additional detail.
Ultra wide is most often best done stitching a normal lens than using an ultra wide.
The last time I had to shoot an ultra wide grand vista was a few weeks ago. 90 mins snow shoeing in very deep snow to get to location. I shot it with the GFX100s and 120mm f4 as a pano stitch and ended with an incredibly sharp one gigapixel file.
The target print size was one meter by 50cm and I had to throw away 2/3 of the pixels to stick to the 360 dpi native res of the printer…
@Adam007, no this is not so uncommon focal length. I shot so many times at 17mm (Canon 17-40L) and wish I had wider. 16-35mm f/2.8 is fairly typical.
Also, the benefits of MF are canceled out by the slow lenses. Rishi did an interesting article about that some time ago.
Why would I pay more for a GFX if the Z9 can do better in almost every aspect? Then the question goes beyond "landscape". If they are equals on landscape, you have to find differentiators beyond landscape. Also, that wasn't my argument, but their's in the video stating something like "Sony A1 and others are overkill and more expensive". Well, I'm just saying "yeah the Sony A1 is more expensive, but not the Z9".
Give me some GF lenses that'll actually create a real advantage over FF and I'm more than willing to consider a GFX. Actually, I'd love to go for a bigger body and bigger sensor. But at the moment, it's the opposite: fast FF primes (f/1.4 or f/1.2) actually make FF surpass MF (see Rishi's article).
We can disagree on the importance of WA lenses. I mean, they are certainly popular with landscape shooters, although I personally tend to go longer.
I do not think we can reasonably disagree on the value of detail capture for landscapes. And Rishi's very controversial piece was written prior to the introduction of the GFX 100 - a camera line that (as DPR has taken pains to note) absolutely will beat any FF system in IQ. Whether that's worth it, given how good FF systems are, is an individual choice.
@Adam007 "I do not think we can reasonably disagree on the value of detail capture for landscapes." We don't, but it's not as important as people make it. This MP war is [censored by me]. When the D800 was released, people said "36 MP, why? It's too much bla-bla-bla". And it went on and on. And now you would argue that 45-50MP (Z9/A1) wouldn't be enough? Not to mention multi-shot mode.
Landscape is more than just MP imho. Another feature that I always mention in comments here and there: GPS. I've been non-top traveling for almost 1 year and shooting landscapes. It was an absolute pain in the *** not to have embedded GPS. What I mean by that is that landscape is so much more than MP count. And a Z9 is packed with so much more features than a GFX + being cheaper.
How can a MF shooting slow lenses can "absolutely beat" any FF system with many f/1.4 and even f/1.2 lenses? I mean, Fuji has 1 lens that is a f/1.34 equivalent. Kudos. But that's all. The 20-35mmF4 R WR is a good step though.
@photography-lover I understand and agree with the benefit of pano stitching. But it's also definitely not the same perspective (compression effect) than shooting with an UWA.
Also, as you said, you ended up throwing away 2/3 of the pixels meaning that a Z9 would also have been plenty enough in terms of MP count. Well, at least that's my understanding.
But again, give me GF equivalents of a 35mm f/1.4 and a 135mm and I'm all sold to the GFX system (but that's beyond just landscape).
Yoms, I'm not sure what the disagreement is here. I happen to sell large prints, and MP helps. But it's not everything. The availability of faster lenses for FF systems is an irrelevant point - nobody is shooting landscapes at 1.4. The MF system will, "absolutely" be able to capture more light and detail under the vast majority of landscape shooting conditions. As it happens, my best-selling print is a 6MP crop from a FF sensor...so, my mind is divided on how much I "need" MF. It's not divided on whether MF would deliver demonstrably superior IQ over what I have.
The GFX has multi shot, producing 400MP. Is that overkill? Depends on your preferences and needs. The question here isn't "Which system should you get?", it's "which system is best, given the task and financial constraints, if any?"
"I'm not sure what the disagreement is here" He, he, there's none. Just two civil people exchanging.
I mentioned f/1.4 lenses as a more general answer to "a camera line that absolutely will beat any FF system in IQ" which is a comment of yours that, at least it was my understanding, was not limited to landscape, but was more general. And *if* that's the case, I fail to understand how that can be. To me, IQ is highly (only?) dependant on light gathering abilities. And as of now, the larger MF sensor benefits are canceled out by the larger aperture of FF lenses. In fact, I'd love for me and for Rishi's article to be technically proven wrong.
As for MP, when enough is enough? 99% of our pictures are not printed. So yeah, when considering multi-shots on a Z9, A1, GFX or whatever, to me it's no longer a "selling point" that help make me decide between a camera or another. To be honest, MP count is one of, if not the one, spec I pay least attention too despite loving landscape.
I'd love to go MF because my photo interests could do well with MF. - But I still wonder how I'll shoot those landscapes where I want that dramatic perspectives if not with an UWA? - How will I handle interior shots where f/1.4 would be nice to have? - Where are the fast 35mm & 135mm equivalents which are my go-to lenses?
(granted last 2 bullets are outside the scope of landscape photography which is what we're discussing here, but just saying... And no, I personally won't invest in 2 systems)
As m43 and/or APS-C sensor shooters, we've been size shamed for a decade about our sensors that can't gather as much light as "full frame."
I find it very entertaining that now folks are arguing against the 70 percent larger surface area of the GFX100S versus full frame, because it's possible to buy f1.4 FF lenses. None of those f1.4 full framers are as sharp at f1.4 as the Fujifilm GF 80mm f1.7 is at 1.7. If you really really need that bokeh, you can get an Irix 45mm f1.4 for $599.
Meanwhile, there are a variety of f0.95 options available for my Fuji X mount cameras, and a first party 50mm f1. So if I really want to enjoy that hair's breadth DoF slice, then I can do it too, just like full frame.
When I shot the GFX100S, the autofocus did seem a little slower than other high end cameras-but those all have physically a lot less glass to move around. So I figured that's why it was a little slower. Plus Fuji aren't known for the fastest AF anyway.. although I will say that X-H2S felt as fast as any other high end modern camera.
I kind of agree with you, but for the opposite reason. And a few more.
I've owned a GFX 100s for about two years now, and while it's lovely to use, there are some shortcomings: Wide focal range seems to be generally catered for now with the 20-35 (or whatever it is) but the telephoto distance where i shoot most of my landscape shots, is severely restricted, due to the weight and focal length of the lenses, not to mention the slow apertures. Many of the GFX lenses have a poor short focal distance, too, even though they are amazingly sharp.
It's the weight that kills me, though. For a similar weight of the 32-64 and 100-200 i could carry a Sony 24-105 and a 100--400 (or the Sigma version. Or a 70-300 and cut the weight even more and still take very satisfying photos.
I do wish Fujifilm would dip their toes into ff cameras sometimes (providing they'd upped their game in autofocus to Sony/Canon levels). They're very satisfying and fun to use (the X-T5 dial layout more than X-H1/GFX)
To me the AF of the GFX100s is only usable consistently on static subjects with enough light, eye AF only works in a limited set of classic portrait situations,… it’s years behind even a Nikon Z7II and centuries behind a Z9.
In the studio if I shoot portrait at f5.6/f8 my Phaseone XF is in fact sometimes better focusing…
The thing to understand is that 45mp perfectly focused delivers way more actual details than 100mp with slight focusing errors. So I personally basically use my GFX100s as a manual focus camera when the results truly matter. If the situation requires to deliver the goods with AF I an just too scared and use the Z9, the Z lenses are also frankly a bit eveb better from a look standpoint.
"1) When Fuji has equivalents of the 16-35mm f/2.8 and ultra wide zoom such as 11-24mm or 12-24mm, then it'll compete in the landscape category against other FF cameras imho."
Why is f2.8 equiv necessary for landscape photography?
Meh. Most anything can do landscape. Sure, I've got a medium format that could qualify as "best" at least if you go by things like DxO sensor ratings. But in good hands a Sony RX100 series could do almost as well.
I would have thought it nice to focus on say night landscapes; I see a lot of newbies looking to do that. And while anything can do that the Pentaxes with Astrotracer are maybe the best choice. With a proper lens, of course. Or maybe the OM with star focusing and Live Comp.
Finally, if one thinks it's all about the MPs, then maybe try one of the Fotodiox RhinoCam adapters for stitching bigger images. Use it with an excellent old Pentax 67 or Mamiya MF lens on some full frames, or other suitably big lenses. The idea is that using the wider image circle and a rotating adapter one can quickly get a huge image from easily stitched smaller images.
Using Sony bodies in cold weather is frustrating with such tiny dials. The buttons on a back with gloves are nearly impossible to manipulate. On the A7iv, try to switch from still to video with gloves.
Not everyone shoots in sub-zero temps with gloves on. I would suggest you take off your gloves when switching from still to videos if your gloves are too big.
Sony could also make the button a whole lot more accessible. Besides, at -15 or so at a ski race, gloves off isn't an option. Frost bite and cold, stiff hands develops very quickly when standing outside. i suppose the best option is a different camera.
It turns out that there's no one perfect camera for anyone.. doesn't matter how fast it will focus, if you can't operate it in your shooting environment.
I do shoot in the cold, wearing gloves, from time to time. My X-H1 has big enough controls and buttons far enough apart to be pretty decently operable while doing so.
My old E-M5 isn't bad, either, because the two dials that do almost everything are exposed and stick up enough for gloved fingers to turn.
Great site at your link. Check some of the other pages. There are also direct comparisons between other formats (FF vs. medium format, for example. These head-to-head comparisons cut through a lot of brand-loyal and format static.
As a very happy G9 owner I was pleased to see some recognition for the G9. Below someone asked what lenses are sharp enough for multi-shot High Res mode. I have taken a few high res pictures, and in my opinion any of the pana-leica primes (9mm f/1.7; 15mm f/1.7, 25mm f/1.4) and the Panasonic 42.5mm f/1.7 are all good enough to show off High Res mode. I also have the Sigma 60mm f/2.8 and yes it is very sharp, it's just that I haven't used it for a High Res shot yet.
Last year I moved from Pentax APS-C to the Panasonic G9, and I've been slightly surprised by how good the sensor is. Even though my research had indicated that low-to-mid ISO performance was similar to what I experienced with my Pentaxes, I think I still had a small amount of bias based on sensor size. It turns out I needn't have been concerned - the output is very much on par with most APS-C sensors, and even though high ISO images seem to have a bit more noise, the detail retention is enough that DXO PhotoLab's PRIME noise reduction adroitly differentiates between detail and noise.
Also, the handling of the G9 is quite excellent, the EVF is pretty good - really, the minimum I could accept after years of using the quality OVF's found in Pentax bodies - and the overall feature set of the G9 is very impressive.
Recommending M4/3 specifically for landscapes is poor judgement.
There are many used cameras that could fit a tight budget and be far more appropriate. The Nikon D800, D810, D850, Canon 5DIV, 5DSR, and a whole host of Sony A7R models to name a few.
You know what? I recently picked up a EPL1 for pennies and it's my first experience with M4/3. Compared to my D600, Z6ii, and Z7 it has one HUGE advantage for landscapes. This thing is seriously small, like small enough that you almost don't notice it when hiking/biking with it.
Often, my favorite landscape photos are the ones that required spending hours hiking or biking to get to and there's just something so beneficial about weight reduction when you're thinking about hiking up a mountain. Not to mention you have a lot of other non-camera specific gear to carry as well.
Recommending a camera that lacks IBIS is also poor judgment.
Also, for folks who didn't pay attention to the video, Chris stated that he was focusing primarily on MILC.
@fz750 - According to Photons to Photos, the Panasonic G9 (recommended in the DPRTV video) has greater dynamic range than the D5600 and is a match for the D7500.
Did you watch the video? You have nothing to say about the in-camera image stacking that gives full-frame DR and resolution?
I would rather have a panasonic g9 than any of the cameras you mention. Let's not forget that the Canons you mention have similar dynamic range to the sensor in the Panasonic g9.
Heh. If one hikes to take landscapes I'd much rather take my E-PL1 than some 5DS R, as @thisisbenji noted. Especially since software does such a good job of stitching the12MP shots together into one nice bigger one. With maybe the 20mm Panny 1.7. Then back into my cargo shorts pocket.
@TheRealYeats: "according to Photons the Panasonic G9 has greater dynamic range than the D5600 and is a match for the D7500."
Erm, not 100% true. At base ISO (surely what you want for landscape largely..?) on photons, the dynamic range of the D7500 (and D7200) is higher than that of the G9 and then remains ( as you say) equal pretty much after ISO 200 to 12800.
At base ISO the dynamic range of the D3500/5600 is practically identical to that of the G9. (10.22 v. 10.3) and at ISO 200 (and thereafter) is still pretty close (9.34 vs 9.66 of the G9 at 200).
I was surprised at this, as the DxoMark dynamic range for the same sensor (correct me if that is wrong) in the Olympus E-M1 Mk II (the best performing 20mp M43 sensor at that time) was for landscape 12.8 Evs whereas for the D5600/D7500 was 14.0. The D7200 14.6. The GH5ii was 13.1 as a comparison in 2021 (G9 not measured) which implies, obviously, that they say the Nikon sensors have noticeably better dynamic range..
@fz750 - Don't believe I mentioned anything about "necessity" for IBIS, did I?
There are numerous scenarios that can be defined as "landscape photography", and they don't all involve using base ISO and a tripod - and there, the G9's superb IBIS is surely a boon. And in the scenarios where you *are* shooting at ISO 100 and on a tripod, well, then you can use the G9's high-resolution mode and come away with an 80MP file and improved dynamic range and lower noise. The Nikon DSLRs offer neither of these features.
My main point, though, is that folks disparage the m4/3 cameras based solely on sensor size, without taking into account other features that may prove beneficial. And that, IMO, is "poor judgment".
@thisisbenji: If your favourite landscape photos required ‘hours hiking or biking to get to’, why not carry a bit more weight and use one of your cameras with a decent-sized sensor and get better resolution, less noise etc? A full-frame mirrorless with a wide zoom or wide prime isn’t really going to be much bigger than a quarter-frame kit, and your effort to get the shot is rewarded by a better file.
The title was "The best camera for landscape photography." Not "Best camera for taking a quick point and shoot pic of a landscape to throw on Instagram."
I have spent 40 years learning how the pros create amazing landscape images. I progressed from fine grain 35mm films, to 6x6 and 4x5. I made the long arduous and utterly expensive progression from 6MP APS-C to 50MP FF digital. Not to mention the myriad of lens upgrades. The results I can achieve today are very rewarding and I respect the path I had to take to get here.
M4/3 is an awesome way to enter the realm of digital photography. I just don't want those starting out in photography, and with a keen interest in landscape photography, specifically, to be told that the latest and greatest M4/3 is the only budget minded way of learning the ins and outs of landscape photography.
For participants here to disparage older equipment just because it does not have the latest bells and whistles is short minded, and unfortunately, typical.
"The title was "The best camera for landscape photography." Not "Best camera for taking a quick point and shoot pic of a landscape to throw on Instagram.""
And what exactly is the difference? You might enjoy lugging around a huge ancient film camera for your landscapes and that's fine. However, that doesn't mean your results are any better or worse than someone who chooses a smaller system for other reasons.
Personally, like I mentioned above, when I shoot landscapes it always involves hiking or biking to the location. That means I need a small camera system so that I also have room to lug my other gear around with me as well.
I'd also make the argument as someone who owns both a EPL1 and Z7, that high-resolution FF bodies are more trouble than they're worth unless you're printing very very large or doing extensive cropping.
John, The latest bells and whistles often cover up for a lack of one' abilities. I shoot mostly m43 and while the bells and whistles are fun, there are a lot of scenarios where you need to use experience.
If you can't get a decent image unless you spray and pray, and you have to use post to fix all of your images, you might have room to grow.
The differences are: - serious landscape typically means tripod based photography for several obvious reasons - this means that the weight gap btwn a Z7 and m43 body becomes negligible
Believe me, just like John I have been shooting landscape work for 20 years with everything going from compact digital to Betterlight scanning backs on Ebony, 8x10 and recently IQ4-150 on Arca stitched…
I shot from the beaches of Thailand to the Everest Base camp, from summer in the Alps to Deep winter in Japan in literally meters of snow.
It’s possible to shoot landscape handheld. You may even get great results in some mid day situations but overall you’ll end up shooting on a tripod and the Z7II is an incredibly good sweet spot.
And btw I shoot more and more with RRS’s incredible travel tripod.
@fz - The 5300 weighs .3 pounds more than the PL1, the 5300+lens weighs a lot more. If compactness is the goal, the 5300+lens is huge by comparison.
IBIS might not be necessary, but M4/3’s excellent IBIS+OIS is better than just OIS if you want to hike without a tripod and still get low-ISO blue/golden hour and earlier/later photos.
What affordable m4/3 lenses are good enough for pixelshift? Since we are talking landscape photography, corner sharpness IS important. Personally I can recommend the Sigma 60, quite a bargin.
I don't always find corner sharpness important, or I just frame for the center or shoot panos. I actually often use the Oly 60mm for landscape stitches; not sure if it's in the affordable category but it's really sharp. Works fine with pixelshift, and also with handheld macro bracketing. One of my favorite lenses ever.
I'm pretty content with my Fujifilm GFX 50S ii, though of course I'd like to get the 100S but it's beyond my means. The downside though is a damn slow AF. Okay for landscape, but crap for animals, people, if they're moving. I only have the one lens for that body, the 32-64 f/4, which is pretty good all-around, but would like that wider zoom. Affordable compared to the 100s, with many of the same features, it's good enough.
Seriously? I wish DPReview had real photographers instead of pretend photographers dispensing advice. In fact, I wish the same happened with YouTube and blogs
Real photographers? That being, what, exactly? Chris and Jordan don't just review cameras. No, they're not members of Magnum, but they do take their photography seriously. And their reviews are clear, well produced and fun.
Agree how do you define a real photographer? Someone who knows his f-stops? Or the ability to compose photographs that represent art form or a study of light and shade? Photography has never been the same after rows of CAMPBELLS SOUP or retro photos of MM. Anyway todays cameras also video cameras and therefore take time to figure out. Maybe too many YouTube camera reviewers waffling on about their favourite camera often missing the point. People all have different priorities and budgets.
So Chelsea - what is wrong with this overview of landscape cameras? Anything in particular a real photographer has to add? I assume you are a real photographer?
The only comment I have is that, in particular for landscape photography, a DSLR is what I want. But, that is my personal preference.
Unreal photographers now wanted to save the camera industry? The best camera is the eye if connected to the brain for sorting out later in the brain bank?
Who is a real landscape photographer? How about someone how generates income from the landscape images that they create? Or someone who exhibits their landscape photos in museums or galleries? Or someone who has won a prestigious landscape photography competition? Chris Niccolls readily admits that he is not a real photographer. I believe his wording is that he just plays one on video. I don't know a single landscape photographer who would recommend a micro 4/3 sensor for their main camera. Most landscape photographers want as much resolution as they can get, so most work with large format film, or the biggest sensor that they can afford. And multi-shot high resolution mode for landscapes doesn't work, not because mountains take centuries to move, but because leaves on trees do move from shot to shot. But hey, people will buy a Panasonic DC-G9 for their landscape photography, and that fulfills DPReview's main objective: sell cameras...
Thanks for your explanation Chelsea. I mainly agree. At least if you area fine art landscape photographer.
But, the audience for their information is not fine art landscape photographers. They already know what gear they want, and probably have.
The audience is all DPReview readers. And some do have and love their m43 cameras. And you can take landscapes with such a thing. I think that Chris knows very well and also describes in the video that more pixels and larger sensors is to recommend for absolutely best result.
But most DPReview readers cannot afford a 100 MP Fuji.
Yes, most people cannot afford a Fuji GFX 100S. But a lot more people can spend $1.7K for a Pentax 645Z ($1.5K) with an amazing lenses like the 645 45-85mm f/4.5 zoom ($200) and have IQ that is almost as good as the GFX. But I guess that doesn't bring any money to Amazon.
You can take a landscape photo with any camera, including the tinniest and crappiest sensor but that doesn't mean that I am going to recommend the original iPhone for landscape photography, let alone make a video recommending cameras that just don't make any sense.
You say that fine art landscape photographers already know what they want and they have it, but you know what, even the most accomplished photographer started somewhere and the vast majority of the "advice" peddled online has nothing to do with actually providing helpful advice, but its all about generating clicks and revenue for the "experts" who make these videos.
Agreed overall but: - their advise is fundamentally biased as it only includes new equipment still available for sales - I would argue based on many interactions with successful pro photographers that the more commercially successful you are the less focus/knowledge about equipment
Jepp photolover - they only recommend new cameras. And partly, it is a good advice as technology advances and a landscape photographer probably value high technical quality. But sure, a used camera of high quality might be a more optimal choice in many cases.
Glad to see the Z7 II get the credit it deserves, especially considering the advantages it offers in conjunction with lenses.
The 14-30mm f/4 is as close to "game-changer" as we can get today. (Of course I use quotes when saying that because many of the best landscape photos of all time were taken with standard lenses on large-format film cameras, lol.) Having said that, the 14-30mm was the first ultra-portable ultra-wide zoom to reach 14mm without being a total behemoth, and it was similarly the first to accept standard threaded filters instead of those god-awful gigantic square filter systems.
Beyond that, the other "staple" lens that landscape photographers seem to love is, of course, another lens which Nikon once again does better than its competitors. That is, the 24-120mm f/4. While Canon and Sony's 24-105mm's are nice, having the range of 120mm is certainly useful. Of course, if you really want maximum reach for you adventurous landscape types, Nikon has the newest 24-200mm.
These days 4x5 doesn't make so much sense anymore. My z7II delivers an image quality that is pretty close compared to a reasonably well scanned 4x5 transparency and the advantages are obviously huge.
My Ebony 45SU doesn't see much use.
If I go LF, then I typically reach out for my Chamonix Alpinist 8x10. The effort is pretty much the same and the quality is 4 times higher.
The best camera for someone on a tight budget is always a used camera.
Get a FF sensor camera in the system with lenses you want. Save your pennies and get good optics used and new until you have what you need then upgrade your body if needed.
Plenty of old Sony 7R bodies for instance. Don't be a feature chaser. Landscapes need only good DR and resolution.
Let me follow this up a bit. I would recommend either a Sony 7R III or a Nikon Z7 used to most people who wanted to shoot landscapes.
Both are available on the used market for 1000-1300 USD. The original Z7 has only CFexpress B slots I think but with the savings from the body you can get this more expensive (and faster) card format and still be way ahead on price.
If you insist on a new camera then a Z5 is a very good camera that has an upgrade path.
Canon has tended to lag for DR over sensor made by sony semiconductor, which many other brands use to make their focal plane array sensors.
For me the choice of camera system is primarily about what glass is available for it. (I have had Canon, Nikon, Fuji, Panasonic, etc). Another advantage to buying gear used is for the most part you loose very little money swapping it.
At this point dedicated cameras are for enthusiasts and professionals. The former will dump plenty of good used stuff with 3000 shutter pulls on eBay.
Yeah, a used Nikon Z7 II, or Sony A7R III, is certainly the best actual *value* if you are not only well below that "money is no object" threshold, but also well below that $3K threshold.
NOTE: I'd rather have the Z7 II than the original Z7, not so much because of the AF or the dual card slots, since I'm a landscape photographer, but mainly for the easy access to direct USB-PD power, because I do a lot of time-lapse work where my camera is often "not to be touched" for 1-4 hours or more. For the more "casual" landscape photographer, who still wants that amazing sensor and the extremely rugged pro body, an original Nikon Z7 is certainly the absolute best value around, especially when paired with the incredibly affordable & portable 14-30mm f/4.
@Deutsch: when I needed a second 64gb XQD card, buying a 128gb CFexpress (and selling the XQD) was cheaper. And it was cheaper than a 128gb XQD too. Probably has to do with the fact that more manufacturers are making them, XQD is mostly Sony or Nikon.
@Deutsch: when I needed a second 64gb XQD card, buying a 128gb CFexpress (and selling the XQD) was cheaper. And it was cheaper than a 128gb XQD too. Probably has to do with the fact that more manufacturers are making them, XQD is mostly Sony or Nikon.
@larkhon: Agree, as new storage technology comes out, the older items get harder to find, or gets costlier. Just got rid of my XQD and bought the SanDisk Extreme 128 Gb CF Express for $109. That's in my Z7 now.
Have you shot with one? I rented one for a week, a couple of weeks ago and wasn't as blown away as I thought I would be. The huge file sizes were a bit of a PITA and I didn't see a huge difference in the IQ over the A7IV I also rented - not enough to justify the $1K price difference.
If they put the RV AF processor and focus bracketing in the a7IV (call it the A7V), for me, it would be "Shut up and take my money!"
@FotoFailure I haven't rented one but did take one out for an afternoon test drive. It handles the same as my A7R III/A7 III and does provide a bit more resolution. I'm also looking at something that provides reasonable 8K video, not so much for the video but for 33 MP frame grabs. Also, a lot of nice firmware additions since the A7R III.
I'm shopping right now, and it will probably come down to either the IV or the V. Handling-wise, they were both the same - that is to say "good". I'm just struggling to justify the extra $1K for the RV, for what I do - especially since I have no Sony glass.
The Z9 is amazing but the Z7II is the obvious choice for landscape due to its size and weight and ever slightly larger DR resulting from its non stacked sensor.
If I can afford to carry more than Z7II then I pack my GFX100s.
Slow down you talk too fast S.V.P!!... but we here back in the real world wonder at the scaled upgrades from what is it, micro 4/3rds? to medium-format sensor depending on how broke you are, because I dont think any landscape-type person would use a micro 4/3rds for landscape. I baulk at Sony choices when their shutters are failing and their weatherproofing is too suspect, and here make a plea for the superb D850 Nikon and its equal without mirror, the Panasonic S1R with its multi-format choices from Panoramic to 4:3, & this alone wins it for me, & it has the sensor shift large format tech too, so roll on the phase detect S2R, which will likely win EVERY category. Shame the S1R is unavailable now new.SO?
I guess I'm just blissfully ignorant in using both M4/3 & Sony FF bodies alike for landscapes... Sometimes with both at the same times, largely because a small M4/3 body *and* something like the 35-100 is still lighter than nearly all FF tele zooms (by themselves), tho I did recently pick up the Tamron 50-400.
I think it'd be hard to go wrong with any of the big 3 FF manufacturers for this purpose tbh, for me it'd come down to the lenses much more than the bodies. Nikon has some attractive small options in the Z lineup (14-30, 24-120) that would take anyone pretty far, Sony's got a dizzying amount of options if you're willing to go 3rd party.
I do landscapes with my Nokia 1020 and Microsoft 950! But quality-wise even today the bigger sensors ALWAYS produce better, more controllable results. You can determine what is in focus, and OOF. Tonal gradations are finer, and useable dynamic range is greater once your noise reduction software has done its best to cope. I just wish 4:3rds COULD do it all, but dont kid yourself, and do not limit yourself as to how big you can print it or show it on a high res monitor. Buy an old D800e or D810 for a fraction of the very real cost of M4/3rds with its lenses new, and get yourself an old 14-28 f2.8 Nikkor and cover your 8K monitor and TV with gorgeous images!! Boom! Boom!!
A nikon d810 are still $1700, the d800e is even more expensive The panasonic g9 is $1000.
Where exactly does this fraction come in?
Under most conditions, m43 shots are virtually indistinguishable from the cameras you mention. If you are stacking shots or taking multiple exposures, there will be no perceivable difference in even more conditions... Most of this advantage is theoretical.
I agree with this video in recommending the g9 for the best landscape camera under $1000...
In the UK today LCE sell a used 810 for £500. D800s with low shutter counts regularly go for under £600 & a D800e is also about the same price secondhand. Look at WEX used and London Camera Exchange secondhand. As someone who paid £2400 for a new D800 still in use after a decade without a single hitch, it is way beyond what I can get, or you, from M4/3rds. Of course if you WANT to buy M4/3rds at their astronomically hiked prices for lenses (same as FF Sony, Canon, Nikon, and for what?) I cannot stop you!! When I see what is charged for a secondhand Olympus 40-150mm f2.8 zoom (£800) or 7-14mm f2.8 (£650) even now I become VERY ANGRY on your behalf that they dare charge as much s/h to cover such a tiny insignificant sensor that in good light an 808 Purview Nokia is as good!!
I see what you've done. You're expecting to pay substantially less because the sensor is smaller?
Well, that's really a straw man you have come up with, I argue at your own disadvantage. The g9 is a better landscape camera for most people than a used Nikon slr, you probably included if you could overcome your ridiculous prejudices, because in good light, the m43 is just as good as those nikons if your crappy, old phone is as good as m43...
One thing about these video reviews & how they are evolving...it seems they are becoming you tube chasers for content & controversy. I respect their opinions but I would hope that You tube doesn't influence Dpreview's high standards of dissecting pluses and minuses of the various systems.
. Hey. You guys missed the #4 category, 'Dirt-Cheap / <250-500 euro', being the Panasonic FZ80/82/83; having both 20mm *and* Panorama-Shot....:))
Landscape without (in-camera/instant/WYSIWYG) Panorama is no good....
Also something that money can't buy at all, in FF, it seems.... (not even with Panasonic, nor G9 (only G85/90/95?)) (yet still no Live View Composite on Gx, another (literal) stellar (night-time) landscape marvel....) (same with Olympus M4/3, TTBOMK?....LVC, but no Panorama?)
Now add Casio-style HDR-Art, both stills & video, and perfection is near....
(and/or at least Laowa making a a M4/3-equivalent of their FF 9mm/f5.6)
No, because some of their (& Olympus?) M4/3 camera's (not the G9, only G85/95?) *do* have in-camera Panorama-Shot (but only Olympus also has Live View Composite?)....;))
Actually, this same feature creates a stellar ranking in the dirt-cheap #4 category, being the Panasonic FZ80/82/83....:))
Landscape without (in-camera/instant/WYSIWYG) Panorama is no good....
Also something that money can't buy at all, in FF, it seems....
" Landscape without (in-camera/instant/WYSIWYG) Panorama is no good.... "
Meh, it's useful to get a preview of what things might look like IMO, and it's fun for a quick share, but doing it in post can almost always yield better results and/or give you more flexibility with regards to cropping etc.
In camera panos would be at the bottom of my priority list, regardless of whether I'm doing then handled or on a tripod with a nodal slide & rotator (in which case you really should leave it for post IMO).
The only real advantages of multi-shot is A) having total foolproof swings, and B) being able to add HDR. Though at the same time those are rather failures by camera manufacturers, not inherent in-camera restrictions/limitations. (added note: Casio ZR- & TR-series are lovely foolproof, with decade old tech....)
Now that I think about it, a continuous swing is way more easy than acting as a human stepping-motor....8-)) (tripods devide your output by another factor 10 (doing panorama in post-edit already did, so the final output, on a trip where time is not under your control, goes down to 1% of all possibilities/occasions/opportunities)
Bottomline: if a measly FZ80/82/83 can have this, so should anything at 10-20x the cost.... And/or: Panasonic M4/3 has it, FF does not....in-excusable anomaly.
(and on such fast/compact trips, a dedicated 360 degree 'immersive' camera contraption is not the most elegant solution either, luggage/stowing-wise (only in very cramped spaces (airplane/train/bus/taxi....:)) it would increase output, quantity & quality....;))
Btw, did any of you notice the (current) picture at the top of the DP mainpage, linking to this article? A panorama no less....:)) (the one further down is cut/resized into a square)
Teaser by DP, I guess. Or just a subconcious desire....
Would one consider the iphone 14 Pro in the sub $1k category (and lens is included)? I know it doesn't have the handling and controls of a real camera but I can say the 48mp main sensor at 24mm will handily out resolve my 20mp micro four thirds camera at same focal length.
That's possible, OTOH cheap/small UWA and tele options for M4/3 will wipe the floor with most phones (where the second/tertiary modules aren't anywhere near as good as the one behind the main 24mm lens) and will still be more versatile than even an iPhone... So I say, por qué no los dos? (why not both)
I kinda hate that the main module on phones is now usually ~24mm tbh, works for landscapes I suppose but if I was gonna pick a pair of wide ILC lenses for that it'd probably be 20+35 or 20 + short tele.
Camera, camera, camera... If the photos posted in the forum sections of this website represent the best work from the gear used then clearly any camera from the past 20 years would suffice. Very few people know how to shoot a good landscape and that applies to most genres. For the majority of the people the camera makes no difference other than ownership rights and perceived improvement.
m43 has always been very weak at capturing enough DR in many landscape scenes that require wide DR. APS-C since around 2010 has been the minimum for those.
A friend of mine is an outstanding photographer and creates artwork with his camera. His photos are displayed everywhere from hospitals to performing art centers. He still uses a pair of well used D800's and three lenses and tells me he has all he needs.
M4/3 has *always* been very weak at this? Then the APS-C sensors of a few generations ago were just as weak? I don't see how the 1-stop difference is make or break tbh, if it is you might just need to bracket... Would be more about the lenses for me rather than hair splitting between sensors.
I think the point of this comment was, the fact that virtually all images captured these days are only ever viewed on Instagram or similarly low-res social media sites and mobile phone apps. So, you really don't need more than a few megapixels; after that it's all about processing. Some of my 2002 3-megapixel JPGs, and 2004 6-megapixel raw files, still look gorgeous on Instagram. I once made a 16x20 print with a 4-megapixel image and, because I had merely captured good sharpness, the image hung in a gallery and I got asked by older landscape photographers if I used large format film to capture the shot.
Proof that, unless you're really making mural-sized wall art, or you just bought an 8K TV, ...it's all about technique, not the camera itself.
Absolutely a deal breaker, and it's more than 1 stop. The early m43 IQ peak was probably the original E-M1, which had very good DR, able to capture 4-4.5 stops of DR at base ISO. But then things took a turn for the worse. DR was limited either by less data actually being recorded, or by funny color casts that sabotaged what DR was left. And going from 16 to 20MP only made things worse, as the sensors weren't improved in light gathering, only resolution and readout speed. m43 IQ had been stagnant for generations. It's only recently that the OM-1 has returned to improving IQ, but it's still not close to even older APS-C.
The problem with that is that you need to record more than 1 image. At that point, just HDR it. But there are plenty of things you can't HDR or pixel shift because of moving things in the scene. Sure, there's compensation for that now, but any loss of data will result in a loss of resolution/detail in those areas.
@ZZT231 According to DXO my Olympus E-M1 II dating back to 2016 has 12.7 stops of DR. I seldom have to recover more than 0.5 to 1 stop. If I shoot a backlit scene with the sun in it I just bracket - it is a PRO body where you have dedicated and customizable buttons for anything one can think of, and yes, - it has a button for HDR and bracketing. M43 system has smaller lenses and twice the DOF for the same angle of view plus insane stabilization - this allows me to forgo a tripod altogether or take an 800g Serui and hike or paddle to the places where “landscapes” can be found and shoot in all weather conditions as my kit with three pro-level zooms, covering 16 to 420 mm, is weather-proof. And yes a telephoto zoom is essential for landscape photography.
how about we stopped calling shadow recovery DR? they're different things, even if they related.
I don't get the issue here. For years Canon cameras have had issues with DR and I believe people still used them for landscape. Put a 6D or 5DSR in the studio scene and they'll both look ugly like a m43 camera.
"But there are plenty of things you can't HDR or pixel shift because of moving things in the scene."
Well, landscape is probably where you shot the least moving things. And if you are using HDR it means there is too much light, so you can probably shoot faster than 1/500s. If there isn't enough light, it means the DR in the scene should be manageable for the camera.
I kind of agree about the sensor in the E-M1, it was better at some things. But it's not correct to say that things haven't evolved. For instance there's less noise with the 20mp in the E-M1 II compared to the one in the Pen-F. And reviews see slight improvements in more recent cameras.
@Toni Genes With pixel-shift you do get a single raw file, which is indeed great, however, it is not usable, for shooting anything with waves etc. At least, older implementations would fail in such scenarios. I don’t think you can get a raw HDR file, you either get a JPEG or a series of bracketed exposures that you will need to stack in post.
"According to DXO my Olympus E-M1 II dating back to 2016 has 12.7 stops of DR. I seldom have to recover more than 0.5 to 1 stop."
Careful with DXO. Their ratings only analyze noise as noise. It doesn't say whether those measured stops are actually usable. Like Canon's shadow banding, or many camera's color casts. Seeing actual RAWs, like DPR provides, is the best way to measure how much DR is actually usable.
With the first E-M1, I used to use ISO 100 along with the highlight clipping point shown to maximize DR. I'd go at least 4 stops recovery with it on wide dynamic range scenes. I was never a fan of HDR bracketing, even when cameras actually needed that to get decent DR.
@larkhon "Well, landscape is probably where you shot the least moving things."
Depends on where you're shooting. Tree branches and leaves move a lot. And they're usually covering 1/3 - 2/3 of the frame. That's a lot of detail that's lost due to things not lining up in multiple frames. The same can be said for a beach scene, or a scene with tall grass/reeds/etc. Mountains and canyons would be fine, but not everyone has those nearby. Architecture and fine art would be the best subjects to use pixel shift on.
"But it's not correct to say that things haven't evolved. For instance there's less noise with the 20mp in the E-M1 II compared to the one in the Pen-F. And reviews see slight improvements in more recent cameras."
@ZZT231 Sure enough, there are some things that can be moving, I wouldn't try a hires on a windy day, but the rest of the time it can be fine. Leaves and waves are not moving faster than a shot taken at 1/1000s on a regular basis, otherwise we have bigger problems...
About noise on those 20mp sensors, I don't know why you insist on lifting shadows to compare them. How is it telling us anything about the noise in a scene that has been correctly exposed?
If you don't believe someone who has used those cameras for 5 years, and don't believe DxO's numbers, you can always check reviews from optyczne.pl. If 3 different sources are saying the same, either it's true or it's mass hypnosis...
DPREVIEW measures only the shadows, but not the highlights. M4/3 preserves highlights at least as a FF camera. This means, I don't have to underexpose the image as much as you do it with Nikon Z5 to preserve the highlights. With other words : the DR from M4/3 cameras is shifted in order to preserve better the high-lights. So you don't need to underexpose too much !
@Tread-Lite
Actually when there are waves or waterfalls, I use only high-res mode because it emulates an long-exposure, it's like having an ND filter.
"About noise on those 20mp sensors, I don't know why you insist on lifting shadows to compare them. "
Because you have to do that on many landscape photos. Especially when things are moving and you can't HDR.
"correctly exposed"
Blowing out the skies to retain shadow detail at 0 stops lifting isn't correctly exposing. That myth died a long time ago when Canon discovered DR. Not sure how it's still alive at this point, as all APS-C and above cameras have no problem with lifting shadows 4-5 stops at or around base ISO.
"If you don't believe someone who has used those cameras for 5 years, and don't believe DxO's numbers, you can always check reviews from optyczne.pl."
Don't worry, I've owned m4/3 cameras here and there, as recently as last year, and they're still disappointing on the landscape front.
"Because you have to do that on many landscape photos."
Yeah but you don't have to lift +5ev every single time. I am no expert but I'd never push exposure compensation just to preserve shadows. In my experience it's a bigger problem to clip highlights than to lose some detail in the shadow. Plus we have very nice tools to bring out the best. I processed old, underexposed, concert shots (DR is also wide in those scenes) with DxO Prime and could lift shadows better than ever.
"Don't worry, I've owned m4/3 cameras here and there, as recently as last year, and they're still disappointing on the landscape front."
Good, doesn't contradict the idea that there is improvement. Maybe you just didn't have those cameras at the same time...
I can't think of any genre of photography that's more agnostic to the camera system you use than landscape. Pretty much everything that's on the market (or even in dusty cabinets) today will have you covered.
One small caveat is, of course, lenses.
Many (not me :-) consider landscapes shot using close-to-normal FLs to be boring. So if a dramatic UWA shot, or compressed landscape is your thing, then yeah, look at the available lenses. And it might as well turn out that, for a particular style, MFT provides better options than MF.
I find calls to exclude "crop sensors" from recommendations hilarious... Seriously, huge available DR ruined more landscape images than everything else combined. People just can't leave blacks black, and pull shadows until the image is mangled beyond recognition.
Yeah I'm pretty sure I've seen a lot of people complain about the "clown show" HDR style but somehow for landscapes, that style has been overstaying its welcome. Always remember to move your sliders back by about 50% in post if your goal is a natural look.
I get the impression people think the Z7/Z7II is just a boring partially capable camera, but I've been using a Z7 and now a II since 2008 and I still have no desire to replace my 7II with anything else because when I'm out on vacation in a national park, a city or anywhere else, it just delivers the quality to me. The raw files are excellent, the body is comfy and the lenses are the sharpest I've used.
Considering how good the Z7II for anything but fast action, considering how outstanding the Z9 is I am eagerly waiting for the Z8 that is bound to be a landmark achievement
Interesting video because I'm in the market now for a landscape camera, and have been checking the market. The first thing I'd say is that there is a vast difference between a camera exclusively for landscape work, and one for landscape plus everyday / travel work.
On a tripod composing with the screen, using a remote release and manual focus, no doubt the Fuji MF cameras are best option; particularly in terms of image quality. But they are cumbersome for hand-held work. The buttons are 'mushy' (including the shutter release), the best lenses are heavy so the camera doesn't sit comfortably in the hand, and manual focus is very uncomfortable.
I mainly shoot landscapes, and need high res to produce exhibition prints, but I can't afford two systems and I also want a good 'traveller'. So for me the best option is an A7R IV / IVA / V, which feel good handheld and work well on a tripod. A 40mm f2.5G for travel, and a Voigtlander 35mm Apo Lanthar for landscapes. Sorted (I hope).
Looks like an extremely camera rich, lens poor option.
Landscape requires at least an ultra wide zoom for composition reasons and a long zoom for compressed detail views. You're better off saving your pennies by buying a cheaper camera and spending more on lenses instead of getting two primes with essentially the same focal length and an overpriced camera built around autofocus capability.
Not sure it matters to OP who reads like they came here only to bash one brand and advertise another but hopefully useful to somebody.
I was trying to pass on my own perspective having researched the options featured in the video, and used both of these cameras. My bad, should have known some numpty would start with the "my camera is the one true one" idiocy. Pffft
"Landscape requires at least an ultra wide zoom for composition" - such assured ignorance. Maybe study the history of the genre (as I have) before posting such nonsense.
"OP who reads like they came here only to bash one brand and advertise another" - Read it again, and try to concentrate.
Rich's comment didn't read that way at all to me, it read like a practical observation of the way someone might use a camera for multiple purposes. /shrug
" Landscape requires at least an ultra wide zoom for composition reasons and a long zoom for compressed detail views. " -DrewRick
That's just as subjective as anything you're railing against tbh. I actually like having those options myself and if I'm mainly gonna shoot landscapes I'd grab my 17-28 + 50-400, but a great deal of amazing landscape shots are taken within a more normal range, so it hardly "requires" the more extreme FLs.
The ability to take one good photo with one focal length does not make it a versatile setup for general landscape photography. If you come upon a scene with an ugly object in the frame, you want to zoom in to compose it away or you are forced to crop, reducing your dearly paid-for high resolution.
You can say "I'm a <insert fixed focal length here> landscape photographer" but that deprives you of as many opportunities as saying "I'm a natural light portrait photographer" when lighting conditions make it so that you benefit from using reflectors or adding light. Yes, with a lot of added effort you can work around your shortcomings but you could do better.
That's the thing tho, not everyone wants "to do better" tho.
A lot of people have zero interest in UWA (I love it), a lot of people will never carry a lens much >500g so longer teles are out of the question for them, a lot of people just like the constraints of a shorter range or simply aren't fussed about missing a shot or not being able to make a scene work...
This guide isn't aimed at professionals who needs absolute versatility, they should know what they need already.
DrewRick, Just to clarify, when transitioning to a new system it’s common practise to start with a couple of lenses and slowly build from there. I’ll likely add lenses with time, but those additions won’t include any UWA’s or long tele’s; and they’ll be high-quality primes.
As to landscape photography (“professional” or otherwise….), maybe have a look at Salgado’s State of Amazon, or Magnum landscapes (Abbas, Burri, Davidson etc.), or “New Topographics” (Robert Adams, Baltz, etc.). Not many ultra-wideangles, long teles or zooms there. Plenty of photographic references are available via the world’s great museums; maybe more interesting than those available on DPR.
Oh, and after wading through the latest dollop of Erez’s landscape wisdom on these pages, perhaps take a look at Olaf Otto Becker’s “Under the Nordic Light”, just as a sort of Icelandic palate-cleanser ;)
I'll stick to my Sony RX10iv. Money is an issue for me and so far it's still the best sub-USD 2000 system that goes from 24-400+ mm eq. Living in a dusty place, Dubai, I also like it that I don't have to change lenses and on a long hike I have a 24-600mm eq. system that weighs less than a kg. It has it quirks and issues but still the best choice at my price point.
and if you only need single AF (the MK4 drops to CDAF in S-AF mode) - the Mk3 is the same camera for a lot less cash especially used where it can be had for half the price of a new Mk4 - I`m still waiting for a Mk5 with the FZ100 battery and proper tracking AF
I love my Lumix S1 for Landscape! If there is a scene that i really like i use the HighresMode and get a 96Mp picture. But most of the time 24Mp, for me, is good enough. People often forget or just donˋt mention the file size that comes with ja HighMp picture… on the S1 a RAW file at 24Mp is around 35Mb and a 96Mp picture is up to 140Mb big… that will get you alot of Data over the years… and for a smooth editing experience you need a powerfull PC. Its a fact that most pictures these days are viewed on small screens, and for that there is no need for a picture with 12000x8000 Pixel (size of a 96Mp pictures on the Lumix S1) But like i said, i like to have the opition to „go big“!
Fantastic camera for landscape photography. Pixel Shift, sensor shift to fine-tune composition, weather-sealed, long-battery life (allows composition without wasting battery life), articulating screen, on-demand aliasing filter, etc., the list goes on.
A huge amount of camera for little money and its often quoted (but typically exaggerated) weakness of lack of super fast continuous AF does not matter for landscape photography.
Yes, its a DSLR but for a landscape camera that's good!
@panther fan There are sufficiently many Pentax or Pentax-compatible landscape lenses available.
Repeating the "lenses are a problem" mantra does not make it true.
Yes, certain specialty lenses may not be available or hard to find, but almost nobody owns these due to their price and niche applicability. This is a purely theoretical concern that is of no practical import.
Regarding the "outperform" claim, I don't think there are suitable comparisons available and furthermore only very few need absolute high-end performance and are willing and able to pay the price for it.
@Class A Let's go for the classic landscape wide angle. Pentax only has the 15-30mm F2.8, which is heavy, old, and very expensive for a rebranded Tamron lens
So you lack 12-14mm from the start. And then have cheaper mirrorless lenses that perform better and are wider. Which make up any savings you may have in the body (which honestly is tiny if existent at all as landscape bodies by Nikon/Sony have flooded the market)
Why waste money on an obsolete system. Use cases for cameras have changed, technology has improved up to the point that the DSLR no longer has any of the advantages it had in the past. You may argue that nothing beats an optical viewfinder. That's fine to me. But its also more a personal taste these days than a true advantage.
I can not imagine myself ever wanting to go back to using a DSLR. I do not see any use case for them any longer.
There's nothing wrong with sticking to Pentax, or DSLRs in general. Or classic rangefinders -- if you're going for a particular *experience*. If that experience outweighs everything else (convenience, choice of lenses, etc.) for you.
For everyone else... I'd have to agree with others who spoke against Pentax, above.
@name that camera "no longer has any of the advantages"
Batterytime. *Unlimited* Batterytime until you shoot. Just to name one... Which is very important if you go out for landscape photography.
Please spare us a new thread with false claims and whatabouts , we know you don't like dslrs... But I use both systems and really would like to buy a new dslr with a new sensor. Can you live with that? Other opinions? Greetings.
Thanks for bringing up one of the advantages of OVFs. There are of course more. However, I'm tired of going into a back and forth with mirrorless fans. There's no point.
Class A: I guess DSLRs got their honorable mention righy in the first category and I would say they are more great. That said, as mentioned above the generation of lenses for the mirrorelsss lenses are outlandishly sharp.. sorry but no competition there - not even arguably. The question That remains is wether that makes a difference for what you do. It did for me. I miss my DSLR all the same for being less of a computer and more of a tool. At least that’s what I’d call it - menus be damned..
If that’s the camera you have you’ll surely be able to take great landscapes. But if the recommendations is for buying into a new system I’d be a bit more weary to recommend Pentax right now. If you feel drawn to the brand don’t hesitate, go your own way and be free. Internet is full of boring insecure scared to be different loud mouths.
panther fan 12-14mm is hardly a crucial focal length range for landscape work which is often shot without wide or ultra wide focal lengths altogether. In any case, the 15-30mm and the superb, new D FA 21mm are more than enough UWA glass for landscape work with a FF body. Have you shot with a Pentax DLSR recently... APS-C, Full Frame (so called), digital medium format? Even the medium format 645D has suitable UWA glass, for those who want/need it.
However, I'd put it into the "experience" category: it gives you that "peace of mind", an assurance that you have one less thing to worry about.
In practical terms though, if one can't easily live through a day shooting landscapes on one battery/charge with, say, a modern Sony, he/she is doing something *very* wrong... So does it really matter if the camera lasts one or three days?
I remember a video where Chris shot Sigma Quattro with someone else (not Jordan); they had to bring about 3 spare batteries each... Was Quattro a "wrong" choice? No -- if a photog is after that particular experience. But, just like Pentax, it's not for everyone.
D850 and D780 are also fantastic considerations. Surprised you didn't mention those Chris. K1 Mark II, Canon 5D Mark IV, also extremely good. Lens choice is unrivaled with the C/N systems especially, which is why it surprised me you didn't mention them.
Though those cameras indeed have good sensors. No doubt.
But sorry to say. The technology has aged. The DSLR is a thing of the past that served us all well. However improvements in technology and the use cases in which you can use your camera these days have made the DSLR obsolete.
Except when the brand is called Pentax, you will most likely never see any new DSLR appear to market. Also I would never recommend new users to buy into a DSLR to for them to find out they have to start all over again with their next camera buy, because mirrorless uses new lens mounts.
Use your DSLR up to the moment it doesn't work for you any longer, but in the end everybody will make the move to mirrorless.
IMHO advising new users to buy into DSLR is a really bad advise wasting those peoples money and long term investment.
Yes, e.g. the D750 is an amazing camera. However, especially when it comes to ultrawides, a mirrorless mount will get you better IQ lenses that are still smaller than the mirrored counterparts. Plus, the entire system will be smaller and lighter, so I can understand why the FF-camera choices are very mirrorless-biased.
That said, if you have one of those DSLRs and it works for you, there's no reason to upgrade.
I will take my Z7II with me for a landscape shoot 100% of the time over my D850. It really isn't even a close decision. There is the weight issue for the camera and every lens. The size of all of those. The 850 viewfinder is better for moving things but I will take the viewfinders for the Z7II for landscape 100% of the time. I am a huge D850 fan but it is impossible for me to consider it vs. the Z7II for landscape.
"But sorry to say. The technology has aged. The DSLR is a thing of the past that served us all well. However improvements in technology and the use cases in which you can use your camera these days have made the DSLR obsolete."
Lol. I'm sorry the level of exaggeration is astounding. Tell that to all of DSLR shooters out there in the past, future, and present that are making awesome images with their DSLR's. Your comment sounds like you work for a camera company pushing mirrorless.
To each his own Foskito. Just goes to show you how powerful G.A.S. is, or getting overwhelmed by a new purchase or idea. He'll regret it. By saying that, he's completely alienated himself from a very large group of photographers that use Canon glass that have been making awesome images for decades. Let him say what he wants! Doesn't change anything :)
Every brand has its strengths. So does every product. He made some good points on the new Canon direction. They haven't been making the same level quality of build, and their designs have been less consistent in terms of placement of controls. Still people like them and are buying them. Personally I'm not sold on either system because there's no optical view. I'm sure they are great cameras for many and it makes me happy they are happy, but they haven't sold me yet.
3P, his channel has been about the virtues of primitive Canon like the 5D classic, I unfollowed him because I couldn't care less about Nikon Zii content. No doubt is an awesome camera though.
Fos- That's correct, it has. And I think many of his viewers are also Canon users, so that's what I meant by what I said about alienating himself. He commented on the video that he uses Nikon gear for his professional work, but Canon for his hobby. That surprised me considering most of his content is all about Canon. It's his channel he can do whatever he likes but I presume that won't sit well :). Get your popcorn ready.
Then things started to turn in Nikon’s favor in DSLR glass.
Since mirrorless Canon has been asleep at the wheel. The only uniquely desirable lens in RF mount is their 85mm f1.2… and Nikon and Sony will have better options available in a few weeks.
For legacy Canon shooters it may make sense to remain in the system but that’s about it.
I wonder how many people that trash talk Canon actually use their products. Same arguments and generalizations over and over again, while others manage to make money using their system on a daily basis.
My RF 35mm f1.8 (that I use everyday for close up work) is sharp wide open, focus at 15cm, has a very competent IS, it is compact, cost $450 and It delivers excellent images, so what is it not like? Oh I know, "it is noisy" and "not weather sealed". Glad I work indoors and my models are jewelry, so they don't complain about the noise.
The Nikkor Z 35mm (which costs twice the Canon) focus only at 30cm, so just for that reason the Canon is the better option fo me, and I repeat, for ME, I an not assuming is the best for everybody.
It’s indeed a wise philosophy in life to like what you get when you don’t get what you like.
It’s possible to find a niche usage for any piece of equipment within which it is the better option. The assessment of a line up isn’t done that way though. It’s done assessing overall performance in a wide set of scenarios.
Most people in these forums are “anti-DSLR”, we know that, suddenly the Canon 5DsR or the Nikon D850 are not enough for their needs. Anyway, the Z7ii is perfectly capable too in the 1000-3000 range which was not even considered.
Well, it's - to some extend - meant to be a bit of a buying guide, so I can understand why they don't recommend any of the higher-end DSLRs in today's world. You can get very similair performance with mirrorless cameras in this category, while getting a slightly smaller, lighter and more flexible camera.
The claim that most people are anti DSLR in this forum is actually hilarious because I remember vividly only a couple of years ago before Canon and Nikon had mirrorless cameras of their own, the noise of "DSLRs are better at XYZ" was absolutely deafening in this very forum, drowning out everyone who said "I like live exposure preview".
Of course that changed dramatically once Canon and Nikon let everyone know in no uncertain terms that they consider DSLR dead. So it's not true that this forum hates DSLR, it's more that this forum reflects whatever the biggest marketing budget is saying.
He hits nothing and nobody. I would still prefer dslrs for the given reasons. I just cannot buy them anymore with recent sensors. The real competition world be to compare a dslr and a mirrorless with the same sensors... But what you guys are doing is comparing old dslrs with new mirrorless. That's at least unfair. But if it works for you...
"I just cannot buy them anymore with recent sensors."
You'd be surprised how good the sensors are in the DSLRs still in production and especially what you could do with them. Don't limit yourself like that. Just because newer sensors have a slight edge on paper doesn't mean previous sensors are obsolete. I know that most paid pros on sidelines and events etc. are still using DSLR's and killing it with great images.
Remember that its the person behind the camera that is infinitely more important than the camera itself.
Spec sheet lovers will claim images taken with DSLRs are awful because newer mirrorless has a 1/3-stop more DR and a noise advantage at ISO 5,000,000 based on DXO lab charts.
Meanwhile, thousands of people are creating great images with their obsolete gear.
Pretty much, which is why I commented earlier on someone else's comment that said the same ol song and dance about how "obsolete" DSLR's are. I said that his comment sounded like someone working for a camera company trying to get more mirrorless sales. And I would not be surprised if that happened at all. Not that his comment was, I have no proof, but that kind of ignorance just reeks of sales propaganda.
3Percent, I wonder if you are familiar with Martin Castein's channel, he is a British photographer who takes great pictures with "obsolete cameras" like the 5D Classic, 6D etc. Highly rec: https://youtu.be/ZsJhjMeojcM
I tried to say the same. My dslr is capable of doing everything I need. But it's still only a few years behind. If we get no new dslr in the next 10 years we have to live with the mirrorless cr4p... We have to use evfs and live with weak accuperformance. So, no, I don't need the newest R5 sensor in a 5d Mark V, but we may need some replacements in the future.
For me personally, it's the Canon R5 and will be until Canon comes out with R1. The main reason is not the camera itself, although I've found R5 to be excellent in just about any scenario. It's actually the Canon's TS lenses, which for me, are absolutely perfect for landscapes.
Most people will think of architecture when talking about tilt shift lenses, but they actually make so much sense when shooting landscapes.
The ability to shift focus planes and stitch images into horizontal or vertical panoramas with huge resolution, paired with their TS linenup that covers everything from 17 to 135 mm is something I don't want to give up.
TC is still specific, you have found a use for it, but for many it is quite expensive. Nikon also has almost the same line, with the exception of 135. And I assume that Canon TS lenses can be used on Sony with adapter.
Interestingly the best landscape camera to use on the Canon tilt-shift lenses is everything except a Canon camera.
The R5 lacks DR and applies noise reduction in the RAW file. So you get a better file with either Nikon or Sony. With Sony, you also get a resolution bump to 60MP. And with either Panasonic, Leica or Sony, you get pixel shift in various flavours from 4-8-16 shots
Worse… before RF my opinion was that Canon should concentrate on lenses. With the current RF lenses I don’t a single example of Canon lens I’d rather have over it’s Sony or Nikon equivalent. So I am not too sure what value they still deliver to the photographers’s community.
I haven’t tried all the implementation of pixel shift but the one of the GFX100s I own is pretty much useless even in the studio. I never bothered using it for landscape. Panoramic stitching is a much better way to reach higher resolutions.
Yes, the EF lenses can be adapted and I've actually done it for a while, few years back, adapting them to Sony A7R mk2. But, I've found the experience so-so. Mainly, I just disliked the colors on Sony. Third party adapters were very hit and miss and have consistently been giving me problems with precision, especially when doing extreme shifts. I tried several adapters and they were all having same problems. I think these adapters aren't really intended for these niche use scenarios.
Obviously, even using them on R5 requires an adapter, but I don't have sharpness issues anymore. Plus, the RF adapter with drop in filters opens up some very interesting posibilities, especially with the 17mm TS-E, which doesn't have a front filter thread.
Finally, one thing I forgot to mention is that Canon is apparently preparing a 14mm TS-R, which will be native to the system. That lens alone will be a game changer for architecture and (for me, at least) landscape. Especially if it ends up also being the first autofocusing TS lens, as the rumormills are suggesting.
@Drazen Stojcic Drop-in filter adapters are obviously also available for EF to E mount
And we got one rumour about a Canon 14mm tilt shift two years ago and then nothing since. I wouldn't really bet on that more than any other tilt-shift lenses rumored for any other mounts
"Mainly, I just disliked the colors on Sony"
I mean that is non issue in RAW. But even so, there is still Nikon to attach to your TS lenses
All my Canon EF tilt/shift glass works well on my GFX body, using a Fringer adapter. Despite the larger sensor, a useful range of movement is still possible.
Many people can move from the old canons. For example, I shot a "typical" canon a year and a half ago. Canon still sells 6d2 and RP with kinda not so good ISO 100 sensors.
Literally nowhere in this video they implied that you'd need to upgrade to take great landscape photos. Obviously the best camera is the one you have and are comfortable with using.
They're not the best, and absolutely the worst. Below even APS-C in DR, and not too far off in high ISO. Using a higher res version of the original 6D sensor that was already a poor performer at launch. The new version has zero IQ gains over its predecessor, taking a step back in IQ for no apparent reason, except Canon didn't want to spend any money.
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