One question we get a lot at DPReview is, 'What's the best portrait kit?' This week, Chris and Jordan recommend their favorite camera and lens combos for shooting portraits. Whether you have champagne tastes or a beer budget, there's a great kit for you.
Nikon Z5 and the $800 85mm f1.8 hit your $2000 limit. Especially when the Z5 was on sale for $1000.
That might be the best low end. So no love for m43rds? Guess they are just better for telephoto and macro. But the Panasonic 42.5mm f1.2 is an excellent lens. As is the Sigma 56mm f1.4. Both would work with either a cheap Olympus or the Panasonic G9.
Chris, Jordan, in general I agree with your recomendations, but now it's not even close. Portrait shooting is a controlled thing with static subjects, you don't need any fancy feature introduced to the cameras in the last 10 years, even a Nikon D700 is perfect for making portraits. (Additionally more megapixels means more retouching...) I would suggest a Nikon D610/Canon 6D/Sony A7II for low budget and a Nikon 85/1.8 or Canon 85 F2 for just portraits. I use a Z6 II, but its's for events not just for portraits. Although get a 110cm 5in1 reflector and a stable stand with a sandbag (or an assistant) and you can solve any situations.
There's absolutely no reason to spend a $1200(ish) budget on crop cameras and lenses for portraits. It's a waste. The $1000 RP with the $200 RF50F1.8 is $1200. Which is like 30F1.2 on crop. And for under $2000 budget you can add the $600 RF85F2IS and put the rest $200 towards a third lens (say the $500 RF35F1.8IS Macro or the $300 RF16F2.8) or adapt the amazing $1000 135F2L instead (if you know what you're doing). Or, while we are braking the rules anyways, you can get a used EF100F2USM for under $300 and keep those RF50F1.8 and RF35F1.8IS Macro as well. APS-C is pointless.
Lol. No -- RF 50 1.8 is a total garbage. There is no need to spent more on camera and less on lenses -- that really brings you to a case where you not really achieving anything. RP with RF 50 1.2 can be different story, but than -- there is no option to disable EFCS on RP so... stupid move to have 1.2 lens on it. I see no reason for this full frame mania -- there is no really any advantage that you gain from a bigger matrix but slower lens.
A real contender can be Z5 + 50/85 1.8S -- that's a great combo that gives fuji a run for it's money. But again -- results will be the same, cause it's 1.2 lens over 1.8, so overall outcome is totally the same. No real need to stress this -- there is no practical advantage of this way. Only if you obsessed with sensor size and "full frame" marketing.
How is a $200 30F1.2 eqv. lens slower or worse than say $600 Fuji XF35F1.4 (FF 50F2.1 eqv.)? The $1000 Fuji XF56F1.2 is no better than the $400 EF 85F1.8 USM, while the $800 FF Z 85F1.8S just wipes the floor with the Fuji.
"obsessed with sensor size and "full frame" marketing" - What are you talking about? Just look at the images. Don't waste your money on overpriced crop toys. Fancy F-stop numbers on crop optics won't give you the real F1.2 results. Don't be naive.
@ecka84 -- "just look at the images" is a very good advice. You see -- I personally, myself, have Fuji X-H1 and 35 1.4 and 56 1.2. Also I have Canon EOS R and RF 50 1.8 (really not a good lens) and 24-70 2.8. Also I have GFX 50r and 110 and 63. So listen here from a man who really "looked at images" himself, not from keyboard warrior -- there is no practical difference between APS-C images and "Full Frame". Fuji with fast lenses gives better result than Canon EOS R with a cheap dinky RF 50 1.8. And even with RF 50 1.2 there is practically no difference.
I absolutely believe there is no much difference between modern cameras and systems in terms of Image Quality. So one need to make his choice based on other criteria -- autofocus, build quality, size/weight, available lens options, price in the end. There is nothing wrong with full frame itself also -- but I see no reason to automagically assume that any full frame camera gives better results than APS-C or will make your pictures somehow better. And than -- yes, in some conditions full frame will give better results. But we need to name those conditions: 1) fast big expensive FF lenses are used 2) very extremely bad light 3) very expensive camera with specialised sensor in specialised case (shooting sports, for example). But 90% of people are not in those conditions. Want to improve you photography? Buy a flash and learn how to work with a lights.
"RF 50 1.8 (really not a good lens)" - Which makes you completely incompetent. For $200 it's an excellent lens.
"there is no practical difference between APS-C images and "Full Frame"" - Your eyes must be failing.
"got perfectly sharp and clean photos at ISO4000 with my APS-C camera" - Another blindman/troll. "most of us don’t see it" - Most of you who needs glasses but refuse to put them on?
"I absolutely believe there is no much difference between modern cameras and systems in terms of Image Quality" - Honestly, you believe in total BS.
"full frame will give better results. But we need to name those conditions: 1) fast big expensive FF lenses are used 2) very extremely bad light 3) very expensive camera with specialised sensor in specialised case" - No. Any half-decent FF setup beats your crop fantasies. And you need to view them really small to not see the obvious FF advantages. If you can't produce a better picture using a better camera, then you are the problem, not the tool.
@ecka84 Have you owned RF 50 1.8 or you just based your opinion over what is written in internet?
If I will give you set of images -- some shoot on 7D Mark II, others on 5D Mark III (both cameras with similar resolution and technology, same brand), both sets are in a similar lighting --- you will not be able to tell me which are which with any real statistical difference.
If you think size of a sensor has real impact on a photography you do -- you not really doing any photography. You can not produce better images because your camera has bigger sensor. You can produce better images if you prepare better lightning, if you have better knowledge, if you evolved as artist or if you had longer practice. If I will give you in your hands 100 Mp GFX camera you will not return me back better pictures than with your 6D, for example.
@Just Another Tog What the hell are you talking about? :)) That 1.7mp snapshot? Yeah, that's small enough for a phone camera to be just as good. What a joke. I like the trees better :)
"Have you owned RF 50 1.8 or you just based your opinion over what is written in internet?" - Another foolish "I-own-it-therefore-I-know-better" argument. I don't have to own it to be able to see the images it produces. But you need a proper monitor and a good pair of eyes to see your pictures. Have you ever owned those?
I've processed thousands (possibly millions) 7D/5D and other crop and FF camera RAW images, while trying to get the most out of them. And if you are producing tiny little snapshot just like your buddy here, then you just don't know what you are talking about. I don't shoot staged fakery with tons of light, so that even a lousy crop or a phone could produce a decent picture. I enjoy ultra-high-def digital photography, window size imagery. I don't please clients with whatever cheapest fastest to produce snaps.
"how does 5845 x 3897 = 1.7mp?" - IDK, why did you upload a 1600x1067 snap? Isn't that the size where you can't see the consequences of the ISO 4000 on crop?
"you always reference wasting time when every time you pick up a camera that’s exactly what you’re doing." - Look, kid, I'm not some pretentious artsy camera snob looking for a job. I shoot pictures for myself, not some clueless dudes who pay for it. I don't have to fool myself to be happy about the results. You can do whatever you have to do to get the job done. Me, I don't give a damn about the tiny boring little snapshots that are flooding the internet.
I better go and share a tree pic now or something :))
I can just see some hapless newbie (to whom the video is probably aimed at tbh) coming here to look for a portrait combo and reading thru this, sigh...
(not aimed at any one particular side of this argument btw)
"Why bother with such trivial small sizes" - Because larger than FF is insanely expensive. While FF is even cheaper than fancy crops. Don't worry, when (if) Medium Format becomes cheaper than FF, I won't be shooting FF anymore. But for now, the FF seems to be the best option.
That's what I thought as well and bought it. Can't say I was impressed with the IQ wide open. Sold it and now happy with the Sigma 56. OSS isn't worth it IMHO even with an A6400 with no IBIS. A fast shutter speed and much better lens in the 56 makes the difference!
You don't see the old S5 mentioned a lot these days. But if 6mp is enough, and speed isn't a high priority, then it's just about my favourite camera ever. I dread the day when my two S5 bodies give up!
Just about any full frame camera and a 85mm f/1.8.
Maybe a D700 and the Nikkor 85mm f/1.8. That's probably about $800 and will give give great results. The DOF it great at f/1.8. IMO f/1.4 at 85mm is too narrow a lot of the time. You'll obviously miss out on eye tracking and stuff like that but it still works.
Yes. But the clueless people who ask these questions most likely wouldn't notice any quality differences anyways. I mean, if Phase One or Hasselblad are the right tools for you, then you already know the answer :).
GFX has two incredible portrait lenses. The 110mm f2 is technical perfection, and I really cannot think of a superior setup at any price. At the same time, if someone wants more character the 87mm f1.7 has a very special rendering that really gives a different feel than the 110 and sometimes fits the mood of a shoot even better.
This was another really enjoyable video. Thanks Chris and Jordan!
Not being a facebook or instragram user, I leave this comment to suggest an additional comparison video: setups for birds-in-flight photography. You can have some minor controversies (OVF vs. EVF, perhaps, or how much speed is needed), several price-point categories (e.g. the lenses seem to come in 3 price "levels" $1000-2000, $3000-5000, and $10000+), you get to vicariously "spend" gigantic heaps of cash, and all sorts of camera bodies to play with. Could be fun. Could be expensive, too; renting many of those lenses may bankrupt somebody somewhere :-)
You didn't go for the A7RIII because you don't like the 50mm 1.2. Just before you chose the A7C because of the sigma 85 1.4 that is actually cheaper than the 50 1.2. And you end up with a Z7II with an 85 1.8 for the same price?
I think the A7RIII + Sigma 85mm combo was be "too cheap" for that price tier (read: embarrassing to mounts without ready access to third-party glass).
Let's face it, if you want to hit a full-frame price point, E mount would run away with everything but the top-tier spend levels. Which would mean negative comments in the reviews. So they threw a downgrade bone to Nikon.
Except for the part where you'd actually enjoy shooting the Nikon. And let's harken back to 6 years ago when Sony sold cameras based on the Smart Adapter and EF glass-and Sony never provided the 'open' mount specs to Caldwell Optical, either. The point being: Z mount is now where Sony E was six years ago, so give it a rest.
Every modern (not based on levers and screws) digital mount we shoot, except Canon EF, started out with just a smattering of lenses.
Mr Bolton I’m not sure I get your point. The video is about the best kit. And the lens that they praised on the previous kit was still available for this tier and would be within budget.
They say the only reason they didn’t go for the A7RIII was the 50mm lens. Nothing about pleasure or whatever. Simply they didn’t want a 50. But they could use the same 85mm they chose before and still be within budget.
People like to bring up how many E mount lenses there are, and that's fair. But my point was simply this: give the other brand new mounts a couple of years and they'll catch up. And I would argue that Nikon and Canon both have far better sorted menus and ergos than Sony.
Ignore Mr. Bolton. He likes to bring up adapted lenses formerly being used on E mount to argue that it's fine that other companies are deficient now.
At the end of the day you buy cameras to use lenses in 2021; not to suffer with a lens gap that maybe sorta might be filled 5 years in the future. Remember all the people in 2018 that were "sure" Sigma and Tamron would port all their lenses to the new mounts in a few years? Whoops.
Mr. Bolton: People don't seem to enjoy buying the Nikon cameras, let alone enjoy using them. Menus are...not really a thing when you customize your setup, and ergos are subjective. It's a lot easier to add an L plate to a camera than to use one that will forever lack touchpad functionality or enough dials.
I didn't perceive these choices as any sort of brand bias or selective "everybody wins" pandering (and I shoot Sony), but maybe I'm just naive... From what I've seen Nikon 85/1.8 S is one of the nicer rendering least compromised MILC 85s and it's not like somewhat better C-AF/tracking would be that crucial for portraits.
It does seem kinda curious to go for a FF 85/1.4 combo at $3000 and then a FF 85/1.8 combo at $5000 while leaving ~$1,200 on the table, I'm not sure the extra res of the Z7 II would be that big an advantage for portraits but if you're willing to crop often (as I am) it could certainly be handy.
Cropping a 75mm heavily on my A7R4 (~1.7x) still leaves me with 20MP+, so using a short tele and mimicking a ~135 isn't that much of a stretch, beats hauling most 135mm lenses around. I really really want a slower/lighter FF 135 tho (besides the Batis).
Realistically, the A7RIV + Sigma 85mm would be leaps ahead of the Z7II for the same reasons why someone would choose the Z7II over the A7C (except with the addition of better autofocus). Even if you didn't want to use the same lens twice, you could have gone with the 85mm GM. Jordan gets it.
But my understanding is that Chris isn't a fan of the Sony handling and probably went with what he would prefer to use.
42 bit TIFF, the video clearly states that the reason the didn't go for the sony was the lens choice. And they didn't mention the ergo when they justify going for the nikon.
At the end of the day, I agree with BrentSchumer. Chris isn't a fan of sony and it does show. Instead of an informative video, we get a personal preference.
I mean, the video is entirely their personal preferences, so I'm not grabbing a pitchfork or a torch. But yeah generally I expect these videos to be tilted towards Fuji and away from Sony.
Hopefully anyone spending $5K on a portrait setup does their own research.
My X-H1 from 2018 sports full touchpad functionality. It also has native, the widest selection of APS-C lenses on any mount in this size. Continuing to play this game.. my 2012 Olympus E-M5 had face and eye detect, you could even manually select which eye was preferred.. using the touchscreen. Of course, it doesn't work as well as AF does today, but the feature was there years before others.
Brent, Fuji isn't flawed. And they didn't get to the #3 camera maker spot by relying on you to adapt other vendors' lenses to their bodies for the first five years of their existence, if you wanted a complete lens selection. But back then, adapted glass was the Holy Grail. That was why FE was *so special..* Now fans of that same vendor's gear like to look down on anyone who has to adapt if they want 600mm. It's pretty ridiculous, and that's why I bring it up. Because other than FLs over 300mm, Fuji's first party native catalog is very complete.
I go with the X-T4 and 56/1.2 lens over the two FF choices for under $3000. There isn't much of a real FF sensor benefit because of the faster APSC lens and extra 2MP. SOOC images will look better from the Fujifilm camera. I do understand that give a sweep to FujiFilm would upset a lot of people though.
I think overall you can't beat the X-S10 choice unless you spend the money for the GFX100S. Even then you'll have to pixel peep to see a difference.
An XF 56mm F1.2 is a poorly-focusing 84mm F1.8, which is pedestrian by FF standards, where you can get an F1.4 for CHEAPER. And you have better ISO performance. And you have better eye AF (well, any AF, really). Versus...film simulations?
And that's before your budget gets higher and you unlock the really crazy glass. Indeed, the GF 110m F2 is still slower than something like the same-price RF 85mm 1.2 after equivalence.
It sounds like you're more brand obsessed than rationally comparing options.
No it is not the fastest focusing lens, I agree there. But for portraits it is as accurate as most. If you are familiar with the portrait forum here, you know about the photographers for Vogue and other global fashion media outlets who shoot with the X-T4 along side their GFX100 cameras. And personally, I find FujiFilm camera images look better with less work than the electronics brand cameras.
The X-T4 has eye detect, even my older X-H1 has face detect, more or less.
Haters gonna hate, but the film sims do result in less work during post production. At least the Fujis have real IBIS versus embedding the data into the movies and relying on the computer in post to stabilize their footage.
If you're trying to pick the best option at every price point why wouldn't you pick the best option, not the mostly serviceable, flawed option? Remember it's not just the slower AF but also the narrower aperture.
If you ignore the Fuji branding, there's no contest. But some people get REALLY invested in brands.
Yeah, some folks do get invested in a brand. Some invest in a brand that looks great, does the job, clients are thrilled with it. Even though fans of another brand, usually the game console vendor brand, are always calling it 'flawed.'
So if I buy a Panasonic S5 because it's full frame, will get a ration of schtick about its 'flawed' AF, too? Or will sensor size just magically overcome any and all other shortcomings? (Note: I have no issue with Panasonic full frame cameras-their AF, like Fuji's, works just fine the greatest majority of the time.).
Apparently so, it gathers light at f1.8 versus f2. But even my lowly m43 gear has a sensor size advantage over its 1" chip.
And to say "..or any AF, really" in regards to Fuji (or any modern camera platform) is simply untrue. I'm sorry for your feelings they didn't just say "Buy a Sony" but there are lots of different cameras out there.
Right?! There are other ways to accentuate the subject besides just blurring the background into oblivion. But with the right optics and technique, it can be done well even on m43.
OVF cameras (to me) are best for portraits, offering an amazing connection with your subject. This is being forgotten under the whizz bang function of eye-AF. Ok if you really need eye-AF then mirrorless is the way to go.
For the connection with your subject, which to me is the major part of being a photographer, OVF cameras (dSLRs) are totally unmatched. Many photographers are now forgetting the worth of seeing the actual photons that have been reflected off their subject. It's truly magically and adds a wealth of nuances to the decision making process of framing a shot.
Indeed IMO composition has gone downhill with the advent of mirrorless. OVF camera's and the positive impact they have on composition and connection with your subject, needs highlighting as super important.
For APS-C I'd go with Pentax K3 or KP + DA 70mm or FA 77mm; for FF, flagship Canon or Nikon. I wouldn't use my mirrorless gear, my GFX captures technically great files but I'm not rocked by them as great images.
Left Eye makes a valid point. I've been shooting mirrorless for some time now, and my X-H1 has a fantastic EVF. But I had occasion to try out a friend's old Nikon D5000, and I enjoyed the optical finder a lot more than I thought I would. Had to remember to look at the metering though, because unlike EVF where you can see if it's too dim, OVF won't tell you that.
I'm curious why composition would suffer with an EVF across a huge swath of users (if that was the implication, maybe I misread)... Genuine question FWIW.
Huh? It's obviously different, that doesn't answer why composition of many different users would suffer tho, again it was a genuine question.
How are you connecting differently to your subject thru an OVF to the point where you'd frame it radically different? Are we talking portraits here or also stuff like landscapes?
If anything I would've thought being able to manual focus with more precision would at times help with some of those use cases.
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