Modern cameras have some amazing features, but they're not always turned on by default. This week, Chris and Jordan share their recommended setup for two popular models: the Canon EOS R5 and R6.
Want to see us do similar episodes for other cameras? Tell us what models you'd like us to include in the comments.
Please note, that Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop do NOT support the .hif - the HEIF format - that R5 and R6 is using. Lightroom will not even import the files.
FYI, we are about month away from the big R5 FW update (I hope R6 too). I don't think it will change anything here much, but it will give more options for video and improve some other things if all the rumors are correct.
This was terrific. I thought I knew most of this and I still learned a lot.
Separately, I can't tell you how much I appreciate the fast, clipped pace of these videos. It makes them so engaging and if we need to we can always go back a minute or two to get a second look at a point. There are so many videos out there that drone on and on with tortuously long intros and headers and it's a true joy to see something that moves so well that we literally can't turn it off.
Thanks for helping us get even more out of these two cameras.
Thanks for doing this. I would like to see one dedicated for birding/Bird in Fly because it is quite different than shooting persons. I have seen some on Youtube, but would like to see your take.
Thank you for this primer. The profusion of options can be daunting but you hit the key points in setting up controls that can be confusing in the manual.
Well the site did their job, Canon is back to holding 3 of the top 4 spots on Amazon’s best selling mirrorless list. It’s insane a $3900 camera has been #1, #2 or #3 for this long.
I am saying that all in jest. These are very popular cameras everywhere it seems.
There are parts shortages. It took 6 months for the R5 to be in stock at the major NY stores. The A1 announcement just made the R5 even more popular it seemed. The good news is some are canceling their A1 orders because they believe the Nikon will be a superior camera (or at least have better ergonomics).
There's a lot to love in these R's with the exception of shutter lag; it's the one thing holding me back from these mirrorless coming from 1d series. I love the responsiveness of the 1D's and find the 5D's a bit "mushy" for lack of a better word; specs for the R's aren't much better than the 5D. For landscape etc... it won't matter but shooting situations where timing is everything, it does. Love the EVF though!
According to The Digital Picture the R5 is significantly slower than Canon's recent DSLR's when using mechanical shutter but comparable when using either EFC of EC. The R's have to close the shutter before opening it again unlike a DSLR where the default condition is closed. If responsiveness is key you'd probably want to stick to the E shutter options. I'm nowhere near dialed in on mine but it's my first Canon mirror-less so I expect that will take a while.
I agree that the 5D mark IV shutter button feels mushy in comparison to my 1DX Mark II. However the measured shutter lags, according to TDP, only show a slight advantage to the IDX2. The IDX2 definitely feels faster but it's mirror assembly is just in a completely different class from the 5D's so that could be a factor.
Chris states that we should never leave "Initial Servo AF point for face+tracking" set to "Auto". (Menu AF, item 5, first configuration line).
It is my experience that leaving it in Auto allows for much quicker identification and "jump-to" of faces and, especially eyes (when that option is enabled) that are in the frame than selecting that particular function to "Initial AF pt set for face+tracking", as he recommends.
...and this seems logic, as the AF system does not have to start from the AF point previously set as the initial AF point for face+tracking (when this option is selected) and THEN search for the face or the eye in the scene.
If you're not constantly switching from single point AF (...including the expanded AF points options...) and face+tracking in Servo (...which, myself, I don't see many scenarios where that might be needed and its not possible to achieve in a single step, anyway...) leaving that function in "Auto" is far more efficient.
You can set a custom function for a button to switch to single point AF from the tracking focus modes. I use the DOF button for that. Very handy in situations where you'd like to use tracking but the R5 can't identify your subject. I saw that set up in a youtube video. I think it was an Australia bird tog but I can't remember.
As soon as I release the DOF button it immediately reverts to tracking. I also use the setup as Chris describes. IME auto often picks the wrong subject and I have to coax it back to what I want it to focus on. However, if I use initial point and place it over the subject then tracking will follow it anywhere in the frame. Not saying your way of doing it isn't best for you but there are many effective ways to set up the R5/R6.
My point is: In your scenario, (...assuming the "Initial AF pt set for face+tracking" option is selected, as recommend by Chris...) when you release the DOF button and the camera switches back to tracking, it will switch back to track from the area in the screen where it left of, before you engaged single AF point mode by pressing the DOF button.
If your subject is no longer in that area, the AF systems has to accomplish 2 steps: (1) Go to that area and THEN (2) look for an animal head or eye in the whole frame.
If "Auto" is selected for "Initial Servo AF point for face+tracking", the first step is omitted, hence things are faster (...if subject changing position is the case).
It doesn't switch back to the original area because it's supposed to start looking for something to track near the initial AF point first. That's the same point as the single point. If it's in eye detect it will jump to the nearest eye to the initial point that it can find.
There isn't really much difference in behavior between the two initial point modes. I generally use the location of the single point for simplicity but either will work. In practice I find it works very well but you are welcome to prefer the auto method of course. I'm glad I took the time to explore the other modes and found they work best for me. If others haven't tried them, I'd suggest taking a few minutes to give them a work out.
I'm a BB focuser so that could also change the landscape a bit.
I think that's the point Chris was trying to make but, honestly, I knew exactly what he was talking about and still couldn't follow his explanation. ;)
Thanks for the video. I bought my R5 just before COVID lockdown in the UK and have not used it as much as I would have liked. However, it amazes me when I do. The animal detect AF is superb, and apparently better than the much more spendy Sony A1. The IBIS is certainly better, probably because the R5 does not use a mount designed for a crop sensor.
Davidof_CR, I asked, although I knew the answer, because I was curious to know the reasoning of the OP. A possible restriction could be that a narrower mount could lead to a narrower image circle. And the sensor must not move out of the image circle. But most of the time, a lens can project an image circle with a greater diameter than the mount, so this is not a problem...
This was really a terribly uninstructive video. I mean, I guess it was OK for Canon users but I never was a mirrorless owner before and I switched over from Nikon to get the R5 because it seemed that Nikon was going nowhere. I realize that puts meat a disadvantage but I really needed something a little more detailed and, it seems to me, that the people who don't, don't need this video. Anyway, I'll figure it out.
@ dr.noise: For thoose who want to learn the functions and settings of their camera to know, I agree fully with dr.noise.
For those who think a few quick settings will fix everything, and don't spend time on how the learn the camera to know, a video might be seen as a "good enough" solution. I would look at this approach as an ok start.
The camera comes with a basic 200 page manual. The "advanced" manual is 900+ pages and you need to print it unless you like reading off the screen and there's no real index as such. Even with an index you need to know what it is you're trying to find out and without knowing what the manufacturer has called a feature that you think the camera may or may not have then you're stuffed. The manuals are not that good in several areas either and although I'm very much a technical person have had to ask the odd question on forum just to confirm what I thought.
I see no problem watching a video, reading a manual, asking a friend or anything, If you find what you need then that's all that counts.
Any decent photographer talks to other people about what settings they like on their camera. Any rational person knows it’s best to get multiple viewpoints and then make their own decision from there. Anyone who only reads the manual and doesn’t talk to anyone else or watch video, is making thing harder and possibly missing some good tips and tricks.
Getting people up to speed quickly so they can enjoy their significant investment is exactly the point of this video. Manuals are comprehensive but at times not particularly clear. The manual and discussions with others are useful but the quick start ensures that the experience is not poisoned.
Yes and no. To be sure, camera manual suck. Every language quirk you can think of, plus written by (and for) engineers.
I have gotten a lot of mileage out of with the cottage industry of "How to get the most out of your new Camera-9000" books. While, I certainly think manufacturers can do better, the fact that such help is often available goes a long way to solving this problem.
Instructions are an infuriating mix of "well, duuuuh", "wait, you mean I can just..." and "eh, who needs this?" depending on whether it's too basic, too esoteric or in that Goldilocks zone of things you wish someone had told you. I don't blame DPR for trying...
I think for a lot of people tutorials like these help them get started and to think outside of the box. For new users to system, a starting place can be good. With all the customizations bodies have these days, it's like being given an empty house and a truck full of furnishings. It can be a daunting task to decide how to configure things, and set-up tutorials can be a great starting point.
For other users, it’s can be good to try something different or to discover a more efficient way to do something. As bodies evolve, trying a new configuration can keep one from falling into the rut of jamming an old body’s configuration into a new one. And sometimes there might just be a neat trick you didn’t know about.
Every time I buy a new camera I seek out suggestions from others who have more experience than I do setting up this particular new camera. I find that today's cameras are far more complicated than ever before, so I do not think I am an idiot because I look for help setting up an electronic device whose owners manual runs 652 pages long (at least that is what my 5D Mark IV manual is).
If these cameras had shutter angle control like they should have, that would solve Jordan’s complaint about remembering to set shutter speeds after adjusting frame rate.
Pretty odd that these cameras (and the α7S III too) don’t support shutter angles. It’s a trivial software feature, which shows that Canon and Sony are using it as an arbitrary point of differention for their more expensive video cameras. I hate this sort of cynicism (one reason I bought a Panasonic GH5S … it’s not crippled in thirty-seven ways, though it’s weaker in other ways that would have required hard engineering to solve. You win some, you lose some).
Can you please elaborate why shutter speed needs to be set after adjusting the frame rate? And how is "shutter angle" any different from "shutter speed" except units of measure?
@dr.noise Shutter angle is the relationship between shutter speed and frame rate. A 180° (the most common) shutter angle requires you shutter speed be exactly half your frame rate. (I.e. 30p with a 180° shutter angle gives you a shutter speed of 1/60s)
Different shutter angles have different effects on video footage. A 90° shutter angle requires your shutter speed to be a quarter of your frame rate, and a 270° shutter angle requires your shutter speed to be three quarters of your frame rate.
Dr.noise: the shutter speed is set after adjusting the frame rate to satisfy the 180-degree shutter angle rule, i.e. that the shutter speed should be 1 / (2 × f) seconds, where f = frames per second.
So at 24 frames per s, the shutter speed should be 1/48 s, and at 50 frames per s the shutter speed should be 1/100 s. Therefore when you change your frame rate, you also have to change your shutter speed – unless you can set it by shutter angle.
(The purpose of this rule is to ensure motion appears smooth by blurring individual frames in proportion to the frame rate; if you disagree with that, that’s a whole different kettle of fish, but it’s a long-held convention in cinema and video.)
On my much cheaper Panasonic camera, I just set the shutter angle to 180 degrees and it preserves this as I change the frame rate. These Canons don’t allow that because Canon wants to protect its “cinema” line of cameras (not actually used for cinema).
Protecting the cinema cameras also explains other features of the R6 and R5, e.g. the Micro HDMI port (guaranteed to fail if used regularly with a monitor or recorder – it sticks out the side, remember), the lack of waveform monitor for setting exposure, the overheating, etc.
@Samuel Dilworth, thank you, the essence I get from your explanations is:
> So at 24 frames per s, the shutter speed should be 1/48 s, and at 50 frames per s the shutter speed should be 1/100 s.
But here's a question: how exactly does it work? The "cinema look" is achieved by motion blur, which depends of exposure time. By changing shutter speed we get different amount of blur, or maybe no blur at all (if we compare 24 fps 1/48s and 60fps 1/120s). What I believed in, the "cinema look" is the (more or less) exact shutter speed and also exact frame rate of 24fps. That combination gives us the right amount of blur that works best with our eyes.
By what you wrote, we can create "cinema look" with any fps if we use 2x fps shutter speed, but that seems odd to me. They will create different amount of blur (not what our eyes are used to) or no blur at all.
Well, you can’t expose 60 frames-per-second video at 1/48 s. So already there is a problem here.
Most people are not trying to mimic the cinema look, whatever that is (it certainly involves more than a particular shutter speed). However, cinema, like most good video, seeks to make motion look smooth. To achieve smooth motion at 24 frames per second requires each frame to be considerably blurred. That is achieved with the 1/48 s exposure time. If you shoot 24p video at 1/250 s or 1/500 s instead, you get a staccato effect with moving subjects or camera.
But if you increase the frame rate, each frame can be sharper while still retaining the appearance of smooth motion. Even 1/500 s would seem smooth if there were enough frames per second (about 250, but there is probably a limit of perception below that).
Setting the exposure time by angle, e.g. to 180 degrees (or whatever), automatically preserves this relationship between frame rate and exposure time to ensure smooth motion.
Selecting HEIF doesn't seem to be compatible with the R5's electronic shutter. If you have HEIF selected it will tell you that you can't select fully electronic shutter due to HDR PQ being enabled. At least on my firmware. Presumably something related to how the ES reads out on the R5. Don't know about the R6.
Yes that could be it. Although, even if the extra bits weren't required, I don't think that would prevent them from wrapping the files in the HEIF container which can support up to 16bit stills. Many low DR files won't benefit from the expanded DR of HEIF.
It's also possible that there is some processing required to generate or write the HEIF's that can't be done fast enough to keep up with the 20FPS ES.
Just thought I'd point it out because once your are in HDR PQ mode you'll have to drop out of it before you can switch to ES. It's not really something I expect I'll use much but you never know.
Very funny! I love my A7R IV, after all configured it's wonderful to use. Specially back button cont. tracking focus. I have 5 pages in "My menu" too and all other function buttons programmed. Menus are menus and it shouldn't take too long to get your camera programmed as you desire. If you switch brands, too, it's probably going to take some time to get used to how the new one handles, etc., but it's never been a big deal for me and I've had numerous brands over the years.
Hehehe. But honestly, as a Sony user, after watching the video I struggle to see how the Canon menus are less confusing. You just have a ton of options on more lists than you care for on modern cameras. And the "logic" of where you find what option seems to be just as arbitrary (e.g. not being able to directly select HEIF in the Jpg/Raw menu) and the same selection of non-sensical abbreviations (e.g. in the menus on AF settings as you run out of screen real estate).
To the fact that i have used both Sony & Canon cameras, I can clearly state that the Sony menus are a lot more cumbersome and need to be simplified. The need to setup up custom menus on the Sony is a must... and with Canon not necessary.
It has to be two separate videos for those two cameras, since they are changing the menu with every generation :) To be fair, there is a rumour about upcoming Canon cameras having a new menu system as well (with the option of keeping the old structure)
These have been the two best selling cameras on Amazon (over $1800) forever, and that's not likely to change for a long while. And they were both named product of the year, rightfully so.
It's cool to see a helpful video on how to set them up. A $2500 camera is not as fun if its not set up properly. 😀
The Canon EOS R5C looks a lot like an EOS R5 with a fan mounted on the back. Its greatest weakness stems from the degree to which this is true but so, perhaps, does its greatest strength.
The Canon EOS R3 sits above the EOS R5 at the pro/enthusiast end of the company's mirrorless lineup. But how do they compare, and is the R3 better at everything?
Canon was a pioneer of electronic, multi-mode cameras, and some of the design decisions that the company made way back in the 1980s persist even now, in its high-end EF and RF cameras. So join us, as we go back in time...
Canon has just added its Canon Log 3 gamma profile to the EOS R5. We take a closer look at what it is, how it compares to the Canon Log profile and when you should use it.
We review Canon's latest firmware update for the EOS R5. Find out what Jordan thinks of the new C-Log 3 gamma profile, see how the HD/120p footage looks, and learn about the new Raw lite video codec.
Canon's EOS R7 is a 33MP APS-C enthusiast mirrorless camera built around the RF mount. It brings advanced autofocus and in-body stabilization to the part of the market currently served by the EOS 90D.
The Canon EOS R10 is a 24MP APS-C mirrorless camera built around Canon's RF mount. It's released alongside a collapsible 18-45mm F4.5-6.3 IS STM zoom to give a usefully compact, remarkably 'Rebel'-like camera.
Chris and Jordan are out of the office this week, so we're taking a trip in the wayback machine to feature a classic episode of DPRTV: a review of the EOS R, Canon's first full-frame mirrorless camera.
It says Olympus on the front, but the OM System OM-1 is about the future, not the past. It may still produce 20MP files, but a quad-pixel AF Stacked CMOS sensor, 50 fps shooting with full AF and genuine, IP rated, weather sealing show OM Digital Solutions' ambition. See what we thought.
What's the best camera for shooting landscapes? High resolution, weather-sealed bodies and wide dynamic range are all important. In this buying guide we've rounded-up several great cameras for shooting landscapes, and recommended the best.
What’s the best camera for around $2000? These capable cameras should be solid and well-built, have both speed and focus for capturing fast action and offer professional-level image quality. In this buying guide we’ve rounded up all the current interchangeable lens cameras costing around $2000 and recommended the best.
Most modern cameras will shoot video to one degree or another, but these are the ones we’d look at if you plan to shoot some video alongside your photos. We’ve chosen cameras that can take great photos and make it easy to get great looking video, rather than being the ones you’d choose as a committed videographer.
Although a lot of people only upload images to Instagram from their smartphones, the app is much more than just a mobile photography platform. In this guide we've chosen a selection of cameras that make it easy to shoot compelling lifestyle images, ideal for sharing on social media.
The R7's 32.5 megapixel APS-C sensor is an interesting prospect for sports and wildlife shooters. Check out our shots from sunny (and scorching) Florida to see how it performs.
Canon just launched an entry level camera using the RF Mount! You should probably take a look at some photos it (and Chris Niccolls) captured in Florida.
Canon's EOS R7 is a 33MP APS-C enthusiast mirrorless camera built around the RF mount. It brings advanced autofocus and in-body stabilization to the part of the market currently served by the EOS 90D.
The Canon EOS R10 is a 24MP APS-C mirrorless camera built around Canon's RF mount. It's released alongside a collapsible 18-45mm F4.5-6.3 IS STM zoom to give a usefully compact, remarkably 'Rebel'-like camera.
Chris and Jordan took a trip to sweltering Florida to test out Canon's new RF-Mount APS-C cameras. Give it a watch to find out our initial impressions.
The Canon EOS R7 brings a 32.5MP APS-C CMOS sensor to the RF mount. In addition to stills at up to 15 fps (30 fps with e-shutter), the camera offers IBIS and 4K/60p video.
While its lineage is clearly inspired by Canon's line of Rebel DSLRs, this 24MP APS-C mirrorless camera takes plenty of inspiration from Canon's more capable full-frame mirrorless cameras.
These two RF-mount lenses are designed to be paired with Canon's new APS-C mirrorless cameras, the EOS R7 and EOS R10. Both lenses offer seven stops of image stabilization and use Canon's stepping motor technology to drive their internal AF systems.
Late last week, DJI quietly released a firmware update for the Mini 3 Pro drone that adds, amongst other improvements, 10-bit video recording in the D-Cinelike video profile.
The patent explains how the auto-zoom feature could use a combination of digital and optical zoom to better frame subjects within a composition with little to no input from the camera operator.
360-degree action cam manufacturer Insta360 has shared a teaser video for a new product set to be announced tomorrow. And based on the visuals provided, it appears as though it might involve some kind of drone.
The Ricoh GR IIIx is a popular camera among photo enthusiasts thanks to its small size and 40mm (equivalent) F2.8 lens. Ricoh's GT-2 tele conversion lens is a 1.5X converter that extends this focal length, though it comes with some compromises. Learn more about it and check out our sample gallery shot with the GT-2 on the camera.
This 'Mark III' lens offers a few improvements over its predecessors to get even better image quality out of its ultra-fast design. The lens is available for Canon EOS R, Fujifilm X, Leica L, Micro Four Thirds, Nikon Z and Sony E-mount APS-C camera systems.
Chris and Jordan are out of the office this week, so we're taking a trip in the wayback machine to feature a classic episode of DPRTV: a review of the EOS R, Canon's first full-frame mirrorless camera.
Last week, we featured Markus Hofstätter's scanner rebuild, which saw him spend three months bringing back to life a massive scanner to better digitize his collection of large format photographs. This week, we're taking a look at the results, kicked off by a beautifully detailed 30cm x 40cm collodion wet plate portrait.
The lenses lack autofocus and image stabilization, but offer a fast maximum aperture in an all-metal body that provides a roughly 50mm full-frame equivalent focal length on Fujifilm and Sony APS-C cameras.
Apple has responded to an open letter published last month, wherein more than 100 individuals in the entertainment industry asked Apple to improve the development and promotion of Final Cut Pro.
Venus Optics has launched its Indiegogo campaign for its new Nanomorph lenses, revealing additional details about the world’s smallest anamorphic lenses.
Most smartphones these days offer great-looking video and make vlogging very easy, but there are always accessories that can help to make your footage, and you, look even better
The WG-80 remains largely unchanged from the WG-70, but it now has a front LED ring light that's twice as bright as its predecessor. Aside from that, the 16MP CMOS sensor and 28-140mm full-frame equivalent lens stays the same.
Astronaut Samantha Cristoforetti is aboard the International Space Station for a six-month mission. She and the other astronauts aboard the ISS witnessed the recent full lunar eclipse, and Cristoforetti captured amazing photos of the spectacular event.
Vivo has announced the global launch of its flagship X80 Pro device, which features an impressive quadruple-camera array on the rear, headlined by a main 50MP custom Samsung GNV sensor.
ON1 has announced the newest update to its ON1 Photo RAW 2022 all-in-one photo editor. Version 2022.5 integrates Resize AI into the editor, plus it includes improved noise reduction and Sky Swap AI. The update also includes new camera support.
Many cameras have a distinct sound. MIOPS partnered with German sound artist Kuntay Seferoglu to harness the diversity of camera shutter sounds and create the MIOPS Camera Symphony.
Panasonic's new 9mm F1.7 lens promises to deliver top performance in a pint-sized package. Does it raise the bar for ultra-wide angle lenses in the Micro Four Thirds system? Check out our sample gallery to find out.
Comments