FujiFilm FinePix S1 Pro Review
The S1 Pro allows control over the internal image processing algorithms, the first setting being Colour output (it's got a "u" in it because I'm British). The four colour settings are: Standard (applies a standard colour enhancement to the image as it's processed), High (applies a strong colour enhancement), Original (almost like a raw colour without any enhancement) and B&W (converts colours to black and white). Other camera settings for these samples were: Tone: Standard, Sharpening: Standard, Resolution: 2304 x 1536 FINE (3.5 megapixel ~ 1.4 MB).
|Standard colour setting||High colour setting|
|Original colour setting||Black & White colour setting|
As with Colour adjustment the S1 Pro also allows for three levels of tone adjustment (something all digital cameras do but we hardly ever have control over). The three levels are defined as: Standard (default contrast level), Hard (enhanced contrast), Original (lower contrast, almost a raw tone level). Other camera settings for these samples were: Colour: Standard, Sharpening: Standard, Resolution: 2304 x 1536 FINE (3.5 megapixel ~ 1.4 MB).
|Standard tone setting||Hard tone setting|
|Original tone setting|
I personally found myself varying between original tone (mostly for portraits) and standard tone (for most all other shots). Original is useful if you intend to post process most of your images as it gives a flatter tonal output.
Again, more control over internal algorithms, this time sharpening. Three different levels: Standard (applies a light sharpness for normal shots), Hard (applies a strong sharpening to images), Off (doesn't apply any sharpening to the image), Resolution: 3040 x 2016 FINE (6.1 megapixel ~ 2.4 MB).
|Standard sharpening setting||Hard sharpening setting|
The pop-up flash built into the S1 Pro means that you don't have to lug a separate flash system around with you, just pop it up and shoot.. Good news, it performed really well.. Skin tones are especially natural, coverage is good and strong colours don't lose any of their pizzazz. Samples resolution: 1440 x 960 FINE (1.3 megapixel ~ 620 KB).
|Skin tone test||Strong colour test|
|Colour test #2||Wood..|
(Yes our wall really is that colour, and the S1 Pro is the first camera to have rendered it correctly, most digital cameras turn it white). We couldn't do our normal coverage test as we didn't have the required lens (would have needed an 18 mm lens to test the 28 mm claimed coverage of the internal flash).
Cleaning the CCD
On a normal non-removable lens digital camera we don't (hardly ever) have to worry about getting dust or dirt on the CCD. However, on digital SLRs it's more of a problem, constantly changing lenses allows tiny dust particles (and dirt) to enter the cavity containing the lens / shutter, the next shot you take and that dust could make its way onto your CCD. This dirt is visible at small apertures (large F numbers) as dark smudges, black marks or rings. For an example click here to see what the CCD on our loan camera looked like at F22 (me thinks this camera had done the rounds already).
So, the debate continues.. If you spend just a little time on our Pro Digital Talk forum you'll find one of the most discussed items is how best to clean the CCD in Digital SLRs.. Many Nikon D1 owners have now taken to regularly locking the mirror up to give the CCD a quick blast (whether dirt is visible or not) with a can of compressed air, this will remove surface dust but not dirt with any stickiness (this will have to be cleaned by a FujiFilm service facility). FujiFilm do not recommend using any kind of cleaning device which actually touches the CCD surface (as this can lead to permanent scratching).
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from Dawns first rays
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from Trainer aircraft
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