Announced Oct 2, 2009 •
5 megapixels | 2.5″ screen | 28 mm
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Hello, I bought this cheap Fotasy wrist strap for my DP1s cam, but the thread size in the strap was far thicker than the eyelet in the camera, which I find very odd, do you guys have any recommendations for a wrist strap for the weird eyelet in the DP1s? Wrist trap I bought, but the thread is too large for the eyelet.
I have a dp2s, and was wondering what version of Sigma photo pro is best to use for dp1s/dp2s image processing. I have recently updated version 4 to version 6, but 6 seems to crash frequently. A few questions 1) do the more recent versions of photo pro add any features or improve usability, or do most of the changes in the recent versions have to do with processing the Merrill and Quattro files? 2) Given I will only be processing dp2s files, any insight on what version of sigma photo pro...
Would any of you know if any improvements were made regarding the stuck lens due to broken cable problem many of the original DP s had? I've had one DP1s that became a paper weight this way, but now I want to get a pair of DP1/DP2x cameras and I'm a bit reluctant due to the breakage prospect. Thanks in advance.. DG
For example: DP2 vs. DP2s? All my Sigma DSLR's are compatible with all my various converters. Therefore, my current philosophy does not include SD15, Merrill, Quattro. I am aware that the DPnX models have an AFE similar if not the same as SD15. So, not interested in those. Thinking of trading or selling the SD9 for a DP1s or DP2s model but first I need to know that, for example, FastStone Viewer will open a DP1s or DP2s file without color cast, etc. OT, but any comments about DP1s vs. DP2s...
As the new owner of a Dp1s, I have heard about the wiring mod that can be done to the Dp1 and Dp2 cameras to keep the lens permanently extended, so as to avoid the motor/wire wearing out problem, but what isn't clear is can this mod be done to remedy the problem after the lens has already malfunctioned, or is it solely a preventative measure beforehand?
Well, a few weeks back I posted about an auction purchase I'd made of an original DP1. I'd intended to buy a DP1s but the seller had made a mistake on the listing. Anyway, I kept the camera and was very pleased for somewhere around fifty shots, when the lens came out and stayed out. It is now unfortunately totally unresponsive, and I can hear a little clunking noise when I move it. Since Sigma have quoted more than the cost (to me) for the repair, I'm considering taking it apart and fixing it...
I have read that the base ISO is 200, meaning that setting then ISO at 100 is equivalent to using a neutral density 1-stop filter, which one would only do if a slower shutter speed were desired. First of all, is this true, and how do we know? Second, is this what owners use as their basic good-light setting, 200? Third, can someone tell me what the base ISO for my DP1s is, given that it allows a setting of 50 for the lowest ISO? And finally, has anyone succeeded in seeing for themselves...
Hey, after my DP1s got stolen I really missed the little camera so I just got a cheap 2nd hand DP1x. What SD card should I get? In my SD14 I had some issues with a 16gb Transcend card so I wanna make sure I get a card that will work. What's the max size card for this camera and what brand should I go for? Thanks for your advice! --www.flickr.com/mortn
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