Announced Feb 7, 2012 •
36 megapixels | 3.2″ screen | Full frame sensor
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Hi all, Last years, I enjoy the most during holidays to be lost in european cathedrals and take pictures of different details. I've a 70-200 vr2 but it's too short sometimes (most of the times). Pros: still pictures. No need a best in class AF Cons: lack of light. Fast is almost mandatory I've been looking about nikon 200-500, tamron or sigma, but weight and volume are partially stoppers. OTOH, price is around 1100 +- 100€. Personally, I prefer the Nikon option. 80-400 is too expensive for a...
Hi there, I have a Nikon D800 and D7200. When I shoot outdoor in the shade I always get yellow spots on the images. here are some pictures I took yesterday. Natural light ISO 200 f1.8 1/1000 How can I avoid this issue? What is the easy way to fix it with LR in post production? Thank you.
By: igzy (2 months ago)
I am off on a much anticipated trip to Europe :D and I would like to travel light. I have D600 and D800, Fuji X-A1, and N1. For lenses, I have Nikkors 35 1.8, 50 1.4, 24-70 2.8, 28-105D and 70-200 2.8, Fujinons 27 2.8 and slow kit 16-50. N1 is not coming. From readings for far, to be light, most advise a wide angle and something fast for low light. I will photo the cityscape in the evenings mostly and some daytime, and there will be some photos of my relatives. I am not into street...
I've been thinking of selling my 70-300 ... I hardly use it, but in the back of my head I hear "but it's 50% longer...". But it's so slow it's really only good for outside, and the slow focus isn't helpful either. I'm spoiled by my 70-200 f2.8. I keep wondering how to objectively compare the 70-300's ability to capture detail on my D800 vs just using the 70-200 and just cropping. If I use the sharpness metric from dxo mark we are talking 12 p-mpix vs 20 p-mpix. 2/3rds of 20 is 13.3 ... And...
In late July, I noticed that there were couple of small bugs from my viewfinder. I think somehow, they got into my camera when I was shooting the July firework and I might have laid the camera on the glass and the bugs found their way inside (still puzzled). It was annoying and somewhat distracting but they don't seem to make their way to the sensor and I figured that they may die from starving. But I noticed yesterday that at least one of them is still crawling in my viewfinder. Any...
I have a D800, and recently purchased a 300/4 PF lens and a 1.4x teleconverter. I find that I have a very hard time getting sharp pictures with this lens, especially if I add the teleconverter. I also have the 70-200/4, and compared photos taken with the 70-200 + 1.4x with the 300/4. I found that I get similar results with both lenses. In general, the longer the focal length, the harder time I have getting sharp pictures. Since I get similar results with both the 70-200/4 and the 300/4, I am...
Would lens distortion appear differently between camera bodies? I recently took my a9 out with an adapted Nikkor 50mm 1.4 lens (Vello) for a portrait shoot. After looking at the pictures on my computer, the model 10 feet away looks distorted. She doesn't look slender in the body while the head and legs look bigger. I can't tell if its just the angle or pose. I never used the Nikkor 50mm on a portrait shoot with my Nikon d800 before so I can't say if there was ever a distortion. I did a quick...
By: ScottnLaguna (3 months ago)
Hi, I am used to shooting whales at between 100-400 ISO and maybe up to 800 on an overcast day in order to preserve as much detail as possible. I had a project last Sunday where I went backstage during a theatrical performance and shot about 2000 14bit raw in very challenging light. I set auto ISO at 25,600 max and was able to get quite a few keepers. Mind you, I am an oil painter and using the shots for reference to make paintings, not displaying them in a gallery or online. I learned a few...
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