Announced Oct 17, 2013 •
24 megapixels | 3.2″ screen | APS-C sensor
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Hi guys, I wondered if I may ask a question,, one of my "passions" is flower photography, a couple of examples below,, all taken with compact cameras of one kind or another but I'd like to get closer & sharper results so am thinking of investing in a "proper" set up. Nearly all my shots are indoors tripod mounted so I suppose camera size is not too important although I'm not looking to have anything too heavy and had thought of a used Nikon D5100 or D5300, or maybe a micro 4/3rd set...
Hi I'm a bit confused, and don't want to be even more confused so I hope you can help me with a decision please? I’m looking at two lenses: • Sigma 18-250 £319, (reduced down from £329)• Tamron Dii PZD 18-270 £270I would like to buy one of them. At the moment I have a 18-105 lens which has done me well, but when I had my Pentax I owned an 18-200 lens which I liked. I do landscapes mainly, but also costume jewellery and portraits (occasionally) Please can you tell me which is the better lens...
Okay so it seems elementary. This article explains what I read everywhere else. https://photographylife.com/what-is-exposure-compensation The thing is in strong sunlight my Nikon D5300 and my Fuji X-100 T both using matrix metering do not underexpose at all, they expose just fine and dandy and clip to their hearts content, to put it frank they clip to absolute B^ggery. In opposite to normal advice of dialing in PLUS EV, I always find I get the best result from dialing in MINUS EV or even...
AM I being unreasonable here in bad lighting to expect the shellfish on the lower right and the clams in water to appear sharper? Nikon D5300, Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM 50mm ISO 2000 F8 1/400 Exp comp -1 AF-S Lens issue? Focus / exposure issue? No issue? Cheers
By: Maspin1 (4 weeks ago)
Hi, I am new to flash photography so I apologize if I am doing something simple but I am having trouble with my new flash (Neewer Speedlight 750II) when using it on camera with my Nikon D5300. The flash when mounted on camera is firing before the shutter and so it cannot be seen on the photos. I have tested this at multiple shutter speeds even as slow as 1" and the flash can still not be seen. This is in TTL mode and Manual mode. The flash can obviously communicate with the camera as the...
Hello guys, I'm new on the forum and a beginner in photography.I've had a Nikon D5300 for over a year, and now I bought a Sony a7.I want to sell the Nikon, but I'd like to keep the lenses I own, if they will work in the a7. I haven't yet purchased any adapter, as I have been reading a bit about them, and still need to understand better the subject before I feel ok in investing.But I'd like to sell the Nikon as soon as possible, so that's why I am here asking for a little help. I have the...
Over the last couple of year's I've managed to learn to take decent action shots (mainly rugby) with a Nikon D5300. Moving from the kit lens to a Sigma 70-200mm f2.8 (the newer version with stabilisation, etc.) helped too. I'm now considering upgrading to a Nikon D500 camera, while continuing to use the same Sigma lens. The main reason is that while I get some shots with the D5300 that I am really happy with, the number of lost shots due to lack of perfect focus (sometimes outright blurred)...
Hi guys, On the Nikon D5xxx series, the only bracketing option is AE (as well as ADL and white balance). If you select AE, the camera will expose -for instance- 0EV/-1EV/+1EV but leave the flash output as normal for the three shots. On the D7xxx series and above, there is a custom option to select also flash only or flash+AE bracketing. Is there a way to do flash only bracketing on the D5xxx series? This is especially useful when you shoot groups of people with different color skin,...
Mine cracked by accident, got a new one from China, saw the procedures (for a D5300) on YouTube, fairly straightforward, but the D5500 is installed somewhat differently (glue? doublestick tape? rather than screws) than the D5300 on YouTube. Hard to figure out how to remove the old one, once the back is opened. It's The surrounding outer metal frame - the one with the holes - that needs to be removed, the rest would be easy. It's delicate work but not rocket science; but you can't just go in,...
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